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Tikka T1X

I got my ammo from LAX. I wait until they have free shipping and have it sent to my buddy in DE so I don’t have to pay sales tax. We usually go in together and place a large order to offset shipping if we can’t catch it free. They just had free shipping and I think I ordered 6000 rounds on top of the last 8000 we ordered about a month ago. CCI SV was on sale for $20 a brick so I got a few thousand of those and a few thousand more Contact since they are still shipping the same lot number I have. This lot has been shooting so well I may order another case just to have it on hand.

I really like the Arca setup. It just adds up to a lot of money by the time you buy everything. I like the barricade stop built into my stock and the rifle balances well there so I would not use another. I like the idea of being able to move my bipod quickly but have been able to make due so far without needing to move it.

For the weigh my match rifle probably weighs 13.5-14lbs. it is a 6.5 creedmoor and I can usually see my impacts as long as I’m not in some really weird position where I can’t get behind the rifle properly. I shoot a nice soft shooting 123 gr load that is good for most the local matches. These matches go out to 700 yards. If I’m going to stretch it out I have a little more potent 140g load that gets me out to around 1300. I have considered adding weight to my 6.5 but I really like the mobility of the lighter rifle right now. I may need to add some weight and see how I like it.

I’ll be honest, I shoot both PRS and 22 matches but the 22 matches are a lot more fun for me. It is more about the people than the shooting I think. People at the 22 matches while many are very competitive most are there to enjoy themselves and hang out with like minded people. You also don’t typically see all the Tacticool guys with every piece of military gear known to man who has never spent a day in uniform. Anyone who has shot a PRS match knows the guy I’m talking about?. I have shot in quite a few different competitive shooting sports and so far the 22 matches are my favorite.
 
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I got my ammo from LAX. I wait until they have free shipping and have it sent to my buddy in DE so I don’t have to pay sales tax. We usually go in together and place a large order to offset shipping if we can’t catch it free. They just had free shipping and I think I ordered 6000 rounds on top of the last 8000 we ordered about a month ago. CCI SV was on sale for $20 a brick so I got a few thousand of those and a few thousand more Contact since they are still shipping the same lot number I have. This lot has been shooting so well I may order another case just to have it on hand.

I really like the Arca setup. It just adds up to a lot of money by the time you buy everything. I like the barricade stop built into my stock and the rifle balances well there so I would not use another. I like the idea of being able to move my bipod quickly but have been able to make due so far without needing to move it.

For the weigh my match rifle probably weighs 13.5-14lbs. it is a 6.5 creedmoor and I can usually see my impacts as long as I’m not in some really weird position where I can’t get behind the rifle properly. I shoot a nice soft shooting 123 gr load that is good for most the local matches. These matches go out to 700 yards. If I’m going to stretch it out I have a little more potent 140g load that gets me out to around 1300. I have considered adding weight to my 6.5 but I really like the mobility of the lighter rifle right now. I may need to add some weight and see how I like it.

I’ll be honest, I shoot both PRS and 22 matches but the 22 matches are a lot more fun for me. It is more about the people than the shooting I think. People at the 22 matches while many are very competitive most are there to enjoy themselves and hang out with like minded people. You also don’t typically see all the Tacticool guys with every piece of military gear known to man who has never spent a day in uniform. Anyone who has shot a PRS match knows the guy I’m talking about?. I have shot in quite a few different competitive shooting sports and so far the 22 matches are my favorite.

Do you have a pic of your current 22 setup? What barricade stop? Thanks for the detailed reply!

I need to keep an eye out for free shipping. Even with tax at laxammo it's still cheaper than anywhere else for Contact. If it shoots well I'll buy a few thousand rounds too.
 
I use the barricade stop built into the chassis right in front of the magwell that’s where the rifle balances anyway. Here is a shot from this past weekend. Before anyone says anything the photo was taken while my left hand was moving down to my rear bag. I don’t shoot with both hands on the pistol grip. I was also having a hell of a time with my glasses fogging up. I just got into the habit of putting them on top of my head as soon as I got behind the rifle. You can see how fogged they are here. Anyway you can see my current rifle set up. Nothing real fancy but it works.
0D53A453-1052-4A70-9B3C-D005BB8F6887.jpeg
 
I use the barricade stop built into the chassis right in front of the magwell that’s where the rifle balances anyway. Here is a shot from this past weekend. Before anyone says anything the photo was taken while my left hand was moving down to my rear bag. I don’t shoot with both hands on the pistol grip. I was also having a hell of a time with my glasses fogging up. I just got into the habit of putting them on top of my head as soon as I got behind the rifle. You can see how fogged they are here. Anyway you can see my current rifle set up. Nothing real fancy but it works. View attachment 7152431

Nice. I think my rifle's balance point right now is more right at the magazine well. I need a little more weight up front to get it to balance a little more forward at the barricade stop. I was going to get


But my bravo doesn't have the attachment point at the magazine well, like this picture - Maybe the Tikka inlets don't have that? And maybe it's also never meant to screw in there so I guess nevermind.

1569291389851.png
 
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in reference to the pics in the thread above, it shows the bravo stock with a magazine release on the trigger guard as well as not. Eoddave's pic shows what I've seen in a youtube vid as well with the magazine release on the inside. Does anyone have a clue about this?
 
Does anyone here also have Vudoo V22? Any experienced pros/cons between the two? For my annual bonus / gift to myself I might spoil myself. That means probably a Vudoo, as I don't shoot enough centerfire to really need a 6.5cm upgrade. Now the ergos of my Tikka I really love, so I would be trying to get a V22 with probably a swept back bolt knob somehow, not sure if Sterk has attempted to make a Vudoo knob.

I think the Vudoo throw angle is also 60-70 degrees. Any feedback?

Otherwise, I'd get a new match barrel from IBI, and maybe a MDT ACC Chassis for the Tikka, just to compare between MDT and Bravo.
 
Does anyone here also have Vudoo V22? Any experienced pros/cons between the two? For my annual bonus / gift to myself I might spoil myself. That means probably a Vudoo, as I don't shoot enough centerfire to really need a 6.5cm upgrade. Now the ergos of my Tikka I really love, so I would be trying to get a V22 with probably a swept back bolt knob somehow, not sure if Sterk has attempted to make a Vudoo knob.

I think the Vudoo throw angle is also 60-70 degrees. Any feedback?

Otherwise, I'd get a new match barrel from IBI, and maybe a MDT ACC Chassis for the Tikka, just to compare between MDT and Bravo.
I'm pretty sure the voodoo bolt throw is way higher compared to the Tikka. Also I just got a an ACC for my 6.5 Tikka and I love it!
 
Does anyone here also have Vudoo V22? Any experienced pros/cons between the two? For my annual bonus / gift to myself I might spoil myself. That means probably a Vudoo, as I don't shoot enough centerfire to really need a 6.5cm upgrade. Now the ergos of my Tikka I really love, so I would be trying to get a V22 with probably a swept back bolt knob somehow, not sure if Sterk has attempted to make a Vudoo knob.

I think the Vudoo throw angle is also 60-70 degrees. Any feedback?

Otherwise, I'd get a new match barrel from IBI, and maybe a MDT ACC Chassis for the Tikka, just to compare between MDT and Bravo.

If it was me I would spend that money on a barrel and practice ammo. You can always buy more expensive gear but skill from practice is a lot harder to come by. The biggest gripe I have with the Vudoo is the bolt throw. After using the Tikka it would be hard to go back to 90 degree bolt throw. With a good custom barrel and good shooter behind the rifle any difference in the performance of the rifles will be very slight. When I’m shooting steel from a barricade that .1” smaller group at 50 yards doesn’t really make much difference. My Tikka will hit the 1/4” spinner at 50 yards almost every time. If it doesn’t it was either my fault or the ammo. If that isn’t good enough I don’t know what is. Now with all this being said I did just buy a new CZ 457. It was absolutely because I wanted one, plain and simple. If you just really want a Vudoo and have the coin then go for it.
 
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If it was me I would spend that money on a barrel and practice ammo. You can always buy more expensive gear but skill from practice is a lot harder to come by. The biggest gripe I have with the Vudoo is the bolt throw. After using the Tikka it would be hard to go back to 90 degree bolt throw. With a good custom barrel and good shooter behind the rifle any difference in the performance of the rifles will be very slight. When I’m shooting steel from a barricade that .1” smaller group at 50 yards doesn’t really make much difference. My Tikka will hit the 1/4” spinner at 50 yards almost every time. If it doesn’t it was either my fault or the ammo. If that isn’t good enough I don’t know what is. Now with all this being said I did just buy a new CZ 457. It was absolutely because I wanted one, plain and simple. If you just really want a Vudoo and have the coin then go for it.

Agree on so many points :) I have shot 3000 rounds on this Tikka and do a lot of drills. Great to have a range so close by... and all that dry fire practice. My main frustrations so far are -

1. Cleaning it and having it go to shit for a lot of rounds.. though I got the new C4 rimfire blend and did a thorough cleaning today. lilja recommends cleaning every 500 rounds... I did notice some accuracy drop off, so I wanted to clean it to see. Also excuse to shoot a lot of rounds.

2. FTEs. It's embarassing to FTE in a match, and have to drop the mag, stick your finger in the well and knock it out, and resume. I haven't had one happen since I started cycling harder, but it is on the back of my mind.

3. Precision. Now in general 2.5" target at 100 yards, I haven't missed, things do add up. I definitely can't do 2" groups at 200 yards with the T1X. I've seen a few Vudoos do 1.75-2" 6x5's which is pretty amazing. But I also won't go to a 90 degree throw.

--

So I think right now I kind of answered my own question. Hope that this $350 barrel will solve everything :). They offer a straight bull .9" barrel, or the anschutz schnabel barrel. They say that that little beefier end of the barrel helps make more accurate barrels as they chamber it it keeps things tight. I am curious if they can chamber it specifically for a certain ammo. I know vudoos chamber for center-x. Get it chambered for Eley Contact :)

1569458578941.png
 
Vudoo has a 90 degree bolt throw.

Eww, why would someone do that to themselves?
The singles biggest upgrade from my CZ452 was not mashing my finger on the scope eyepiece.

If I had money to burn it'd be upgrading stock/chassis or scope.
IMHO at a certain point rifle quality /accuracy increases become far less important than a average scope vs a awesome scope.
 
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Eww, why would someone do that to themselves?
The singles biggest upgrade from my CZ452 was not mashing my finger on the scope eyepiece.

If I had money to burn it'd be upgrading stock/chassis or scope.
IMHO at a certain point rifle quality /accuracy increases become far less important than a average scope vs a awesome scope.

Yeh another way to spoil myself would be to just get a new scope. I hear amazing things from the ZCO 5-27. but it parallaxes too far out. So I'm still swapping for an ideal do-it-all amazing scope. I have the Ares ETR which I love, very happy for that over the BTR. But now I'm curious what a 2K scope provides...
 
Pictures appear to be a 90degree lift.
The handle is only customisable by changing the threaded knob on the end, can't change it like you can on the T1x.
V-22-rear-bolt-1.jpg
V-22-closed-bolt-rear-1.jpg
 
Yeh another way to spoil myself would be to just get a new scope. I hear amazing things from the ZCO 5-27. but it parallaxes too far out. So I'm still swapping for an ideal do-it-all amazing scope. I have the Ares ETR which I love, very happy for that over the BTR. But now I'm curious what a 2K scope provides...
ZCO for 2k? You need to add a Cronus BTR in that price.
 
ZCO for 2k? You need to add a Cronus BTR in that price.

Haha, not a ZCO for 2K, I was just curious the different upgrade price ranges. I like my ETR over the BTR, but that's $500 vs $1000. I heard the Cronus BTR is a slight step up at $1400. 2K, can get into some used S&B's...

But after reading that XTR III thread, I think that's the scope to probably get around the 2K range.

ZCO, TT scopes all parallax too far out, so even if I wanted to splurge 3K, they wouldn't really run well in NRL22.
 
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@IntenseImage - I had completely forgotten about the oryx chassis until your picture popped up. It looks great. Are you satisfied with the stock? Any fitment issues?
I’ve been very happen with my Oryx chassis. Didn’t have any fitment issues when I installed it. I use mine for benchrest matches, and my only complaint is I have to use a much taller bag in the rear. There just isn’t much surface area for a bag. Other than that, it has been great. Prior to installing the Oryx, my Tikka didn’t group well with the suppressor installed, but after installing the chassis, accuracy improved with the suppressor installed compared to without.
 
Haha, not a ZCO for 2K, I was just curious the different upgrade price ranges. I like my ETR over the BTR, but that's $500 vs $1000. I heard the Cronus BTR is a slight step up at $1400. 2K, can get into some used S&B's...

But after reading that XTR III thread, I think that's the scope to probably get around the 2K range.

ZCO, TT scopes all parallax too far out, so even if I wanted to splurge 3K, they wouldn't really run well in NRL22.

I too am hanging out for more reviews on the XTR3, seems to tick all the boxes for a great 22lr scope.
 
Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread. Reading through everything on here has shown me what I may expect with the T1x. I’m hopping to get one tomorrow after I’m off work. Still trying to decide what glass to put on it though.
 
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Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread. Reading through everything on here has shown me what I may expect with the T1x. I’m hopping to get one tomorrow after I’m off work. Still trying to decide what glass to put on it though.

If you're in the budget mode, get the Athlon Ares BTR, For $389 from cameralandny. (2.5-15) or get their 4.5-27x for a little bit more. Closeout sale as their Gen 2 just got announced, which only offers upgraded turrets, but the street price for Gen 2 will most likely be around $750.
 
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The family shot the East Coast Steel Challenge Championship this past weekend and the shooters received gift cards from EuroOptic ... Put them to use right away to buy the things we needed!

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If you're in the budget mode, get the Athlon Ares BTR, For $389 from cameralandny. (2.5-15) or get their 4.5-27x for a little bit more. Closeout sale as their Gen 2 just got announced, which only offers upgraded turrets, but the street price for Gen 2 will most likely be around $750.

Thank you! I’ll have to check that out. I’ve been told the Swfa is nice for a fixed power, and I’ve also been told the vortex diamondback tactical isn’t half bad either. I’m bad at making decisions though.
 
Thank you! I’ll have to check that out. I’ve been told the Swfa is nice for a fixed power, and I’ve also been told the vortex diamondback tactical isn’t half bad either. I’m bad at making decisions though.
The ares btr is better than the diamond back tactical.....I sold mine to get the ares on clearance. I have the vortex pst2 on my T1x, and it's awesome. It's far better than the ares btr in my opinion.
 
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The ares btr is better than the diamond back tactical.....I sold mine to get the ares on clearance. I have the vortex pst2 on my T1x, and it's awesome. It's far better than the ares btr in my opinion.

For my price range the athlon is going to be a really good buy getting one on clearance. The pst is a little rain ch for my blood.
 
Pulled a trigger on T1x last night and Area 419 30MOA mount. Already have a stock for it and trying to decide between PST II 5-25 that I have laying around or swap it with Cronus from my 452 American.
Anybody have shortened their barrel to 16 1/2" yet?
 
So I did a good cleaning on my rifle yesterday. Got the new Boretech Rimfire Blend, did 2 wet patches, and then did a third wet patch and let it sit right at the chamber soaking into the carbon ring. I let it all sit wet for about 15-20 minutes to soak it all in. Then I ran about 8 dry patches until everything looked pretty clean and dry. I don't have a so all I've done to clean this is wet/dry patching.

I bought a .20cal rod, instead of a .22cal rod because everyone said go with a .22cal as some rimfires are very tight and the .22cal rod could get stuck. The 20cal rods are threaded 5-40, and any VFG Felt adapter I could find online is threaded 8-32, I couldn't find anyway to get a VFG adapter and use the felts, so it looks like I'm just going to buy a 20 cal bronze brush and scrub it. Now I'm confused if I should have just bought a 22cal rod. I do notice that the Bore-tech T1X Bore Guide 22RF does leave some wiggle on the 20 cal rod, so I'm super careful at pushing it super straight when I'm going into the chamber...

What are you guys doing on cleaning your Tikkas?

Anyhow, the main goal today was to see how many fouling rounds it'd take until things started grouping. I put up 2.5" spinner at 99 yards, and shot 7 rounds at it, all hits. Then I went on to paper and documented each of my groups / round count. It looks like it was grouping fine after 7 rounds. Did 3 groups of Eley Target, and respectably .8 to 1.55". I then switched over to Eley Contact. First two groups had 1 random flyer, one was really high, and one was really low. I guess switching ammo/bullet type probably requires some fouling.

It was getting real dark, so I rushed and did 10 more rounds of Eley Contact and they grouped adequately enough for me for NRL22.

Then I went over to 25yd to test my zero. .2mil low at my Eley Target zero. So that leaves me at 2.1mil up for 99 yards. @Eoddave27 I need to test for 200 yards to get out the BC, but it doesn't look like my Eley Contact is flying as fast as yours. Actually required more dialing at 100 compared to Target.

Right now
1.9 mil for Eley Target @ 99ish
2.1 mil for Eley Contact @ 99ish


1569553752368.png
 
A more crap than usual iphone pic at the range

IMG_0317.JPG


Bit of work getting the chassis going but worked out pretty good, chucked a spare scope on to see if it was good enough to spend more getting a rail.
After about 300 rounds of mixed ammunition the results were inconclusive.
SK flatnose was probably the best at 50m, mixed Eley results. Generally all ammunition was tight horizontally (little wind) but random vertical spreads. Mucking around with action screw torque did effect group size (and shape) so that'll be the next step, started at 50 I/lbs with no adverse effects on feeding or ejecting. I had seen people having troubles with SK standard plus (I think??) so all fitting work into the chassis was done around reliably feeding and ejecting it, ( I removed the firing pin to do this at home, but it is live ammunition so be careful). Not a single sign of trouble with any brand or shape of bullet so far.

Overall mixed feelings about the rifle and design, Tikka price these cheap and you can see where the money doesn't go. I spent a good while staring at the ejector (pulled the rifle apart as soon as i got it and had the magazine housing seperate) wondering WTF the tiny piece of bent wire was, realised it was ejector and am not sure about the concept at all. Also back to plastic bolt shrouds again except now its actually a functional part of the rifle and holds the firing pin spring in and the back of the bolt together (unlike the t3 where it wasn't really important, but still replaced with gen 1 Sterk.) with all that, I'd happily pay 2-2.5 time more for something like a Sako p94 in a t3 footprint instead of a rifle designed to compete in the budget market.

I do like the rifle though and if the random vertical component can be sorted out (which I think I can) it should be a nice .22
In Australia we have both 20" and 16" barreled rifles for sale, I really like short barrels but ended up with a 20" which worked out nice
because a 16" barrel would be almost too short for the spigot.

If I can sort out how it's shooting the next step is a Sterk handle and 30moa rail.
 
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Just a heads up, Beretta is running their magazine sale again. Adding 2 or more to your cart drops the price from $35 EA to $31.50 EA. Then use the code MAGS25 at checkout to get an additional 25% off. Right now I’m looking at 3 mags for a final price of $70.86, so about $23.62 each.
 
A more crap than usual iphone pic at the range

View attachment 7154353

Bit of work getting the chassis going but worked out pretty good, chucked a spare scope on to see if it was good enough to spend more getting a rail.
After about 300 rounds of mixed ammunition the results were inconclusive.
SK flatnose was probably the best at 50m, mixed Eley results. Generally all ammunition was tight horizontally (little wind) but random vertical spreads. Mucking around with action screw torque did effect group size (and shape) so that'll be the next step, started at 50 I/lbs with no adverse effects on feeding or ejecting. I had seen people having troubles with SK standard plus (I think??) so all fitting work into the chassis was done around reliably feeding and ejecting it, ( I removed the firing pin to do this at home, but it is live ammunition so be careful). Not a single sign of trouble with any brand or shape of bullet so far.

Overall mixed feelings about the rifle and design, Tikka price these cheap and you can see where the money doesn't go. I spent a good while staring at the ejector (pulled the rifle apart as soon as i got it and had the magazine housing seperate) wondering WTF the tiny piece of bent wire was, realised it was ejector and am not sure about the concept at all. Also back to plastic bolt shrouds again except now its actually a functional part of the rifle and holds the firing pin spring in and the back of the bolt together (unlike the t3 where it wasn't really important, but still replaced with gen 1 Sterk.) with all that, I'd happily pay 2-2.5 time more for something like a Sako p94 in a t3 footprint instead of a rifle designed to compete in the budget market.

I do like the rifle though and if the random vertical component can be sorted out (which I think I can) it should be a nice .22
In Australia we have both 20" and 16" barreled rifles for sale, I really like short barrels but ended up with a 20" which worked out nice
because a 16" barrel would be almost too short for the spigot.

If I can sort out how it's shooting the next step is a Sterk handle and 30moa rail.

Thanks for putting in the time and effort! I'd be curious what you figure out with the torque settings. I had mine at 65, and now down to 35, but results are too inconclusive to really tell. Even with the plastic shroud, I find the Tikka to be one of the smoother 22 bolt actions. I also get random vertical fliers a lot when I'm shooting, and I've shot enough to be confident it's not all me. Though when I do put in Eley Tenex, I have been able to consistently shoot it at sub 1" at 100 yards, but any other ammo, I'll get more vertical variations.

I'm waiting on some more field reports if a new match barrel from IBI will improve things, and if so then that might be where I go. I can't live with the V22 90 degree throw, so until they make another smooth 60-70 degree throw rimfire bolt, I'm going to stick with the Tikka. The CZ457 is a possibility, but I haven't heard/seen any real difference between the two in a measurable way.
 
So I did a good cleaning on my rifle yesterday. Got the new Boretech Rimfire Blend, did 2 wet patches, and then did a third wet patch and let it sit right at the chamber soaking into the carbon ring. I let it all sit wet for about 15-20 minutes to soak it all in. Then I ran about 8 dry patches until everything looked pretty clean and dry. I don't have a so all I've done to clean this is wet/dry patching.

I bought a .20cal rod, instead of a .22cal rod because everyone said go with a .22cal as some rimfires are very tight and the .22cal rod could get stuck. The 20cal rods are threaded 5-40, and any VFG Felt adapter I could find online is threaded 8-32, I couldn't find anyway to get a VFG adapter and use the felts, so it looks like I'm just going to buy a 20 cal bronze brush and scrub it. Now I'm confused if I should have just bought a 22cal rod. I do notice that the Bore-tech T1X Bore Guide 22RF does leave some wiggle on the 20 cal rod, so I'm super careful at pushing it super straight when I'm going into the chamber...

What are you guys doing on cleaning your Tikkas?

Anyhow, the main goal today was to see how many fouling rounds it'd take until things started grouping. I put up 2.5" spinner at 99 yards, and shot 7 rounds at it, all hits. Then I went on to paper and documented each of my groups / round count. It looks like it was grouping fine after 7 rounds. Did 3 groups of Eley Target, and respectably .8 to 1.55". I then switched over to Eley Contact. First two groups had 1 random flyer, one was really high, and one was really low. I guess switching ammo/bullet type probably requires some fouling.

It was getting real dark, so I rushed and did 10 more rounds of Eley Contact and they grouped adequately enough for me for NRL22.

Then I went over to 25yd to test my zero. .2mil low at my Eley Target zero. So that leaves me at 2.1mil up for 99 yards. @Eoddave27 I need to test for 200 yards to get out the BC, but it doesn't look like my Eley Contact is flying as fast as yours. Actually required more dialing at 100 compared to Target.

Right now
1.9 mil for Eley Target @ 99ish
2.1 mil for Eley Contact @ 99ish


View attachment 7154309

I just went out and shot my T1x and new cz457 today. I actually chronographed the Tikka with the Contact today. I shot 20 rounds. All but two shots were between 1090 and 1100. I had one that jumped to 1114 and another that jumped to 1110. All my groups were right around .3 at 50. When I went to 100 my dope with a 50 yard zero is 1.7 at 100, 3.9 at 150, 6.6 at 200 and 12.4 at 300. All these are basically at sea level and 75 degrees. I didn’t bother shooting any groups with the Tikka beyond 50. The CZ got most of the attention today so I could see how it stacked up to the tikka.
 
I just went out and shot my T1x and new cz457 today. I actually chronographed the Tikka with the Contact today. I shot 20 rounds. All but two shots were between 1090 and 1100. I had one that jumped to 1114 and another that jumped to 1110. All my groups were right around .3 at 50. When I went to 100 my dope with a 50 yard zero is 1.7 at 100, 3.9 at 150, 6.6 at 200 and 12.4 at 300. All these are basically at sea level and 75 degrees. I didn’t bother shooting any groups with the Tikka beyond 50. The CZ got most of the attention today so I could see how it stacked up to the tikka.

How did the cz stack up? Are you going to but a chassis for it?
 
Curious about the cz performance myself. Buds guns has mags for 25 each plus 10 shipping. 3 mags plus shipping was 83 bucks.
 
IBI barrel is finally on the way. Looking forward to getting this going. My Tikka #3 is shooting so good in the KRG Bravo I'm deciding if I want to leave it alone and buy something else for the IBI barreled setup.

While we are on the CZ 457 subject, I'll say my 457 Varmint isn't even close in accuracy to my worst Tikka. Curiosity got the best of me and now I consider the CZ 457 purchase as money wasted. That's me and my feelings and not an indication or belief that all 457's are inaccurate.
 
When I tried the various flavors of Eley ammo it was shooting okay but nothing too impressive. That was also about the first 100 rounds. When I switched to SK pistol Match Special though holy crap that thing shot! I shot 6 groups at 100 yards with it just seeing what it could do after it shot so well at 50. Of the 6 groups 4 I could about cover with a penny and the remaining 2 I could cover with a quarter. I’m really hoping I just didn’t have a magic lot of ammo for that rifle because I only have a half box of that lot left. I’m going to order some more and try some Lapua Center X and see what happens. It cycles great as is expected with a CZ. Magazine changes on the clock are a PITA though which I don’t care for. I’m going to wait a little while and see if KRG releases something this winter but as of right now I think I’m going to drop it in a MPA later this year.
 
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IBI barrel is finally on the way. Looking forward to getting this going. My Tikka #3 is shooting so good in the KRG Bravo I'm deciding if I want to leave it alone and buy something else for the IBI barreled setup.

While we are on the CZ 457 subject, I'll say my 457 Varmint isn't even close in accuracy to my worst Tikka. Curiosity got the best of me and now I consider the CZ 457 purchase as money wasted. That's me and my feelings and not an indication or belief that all 457's are inaccurate.


I may have won the barrel lottery on my CZ at least with the SK ammo. Functionally the CZ handles great with the exception of the mag well. I will say that my Tikka tends to shoot most of the ammo I have tried in it pretty well with some ammo shooting exceptional. The CZ only seemed to shoot the SK really well. I’m ordering more of the SK to see what happens. I had originally planned to rebarreled my CZ anyway. If it continues to shoot the SK well I may leave it alone for now and just put it in a chassis.

A photo of the CZ for all the picture lovers out there.

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