- Thread starter jbell
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@ eoddave,
Did you get that bipod from West Lake Tactical?
I thought for a few seconds about rebarreling my 457 but I may send it on like I'm trying to do with the Ruger PR and Savage MK II. If I'm going to put barrel money into one of my rifles "besides the Tikka" it would probably be a Lilja barrel in 17 HM2 for one of my Sako P94 Finnfire Ranges. That barrel is only $310 compared to well over $400 for anything for a CZ or Ruger.
Did you get that bipod from West Lake Tactical?
I thought for a few seconds about rebarreling my 457 but I may send it on like I'm trying to do with the Ruger PR and Savage MK II. If I'm going to put barrel money into one of my rifles "besides the Tikka" it would probably be a Lilja barrel in 17 HM2 for one of my Sako P94 Finnfire Ranges. That barrel is only $310 compared to well over $400 for anything for a CZ or Ruger.
I use 20 cal rods. The thread issue is a bit of a pain.
You can get 5/40 - 8/32 adapters.
You can also re-thread the fittings.
Here's a 22 cal jag that I re-threaded to 5/40 shown next to an unmodified example. I chucked it in a drill, turned down the thread with a fine file and then re-threaded with a 5/40 die. I also turned down the base of the jag to match the diameter of my cleaning rod.
My original plan before I even ordered the CZ was to put a Bartlein barrel on it. For now I’m going to hold off and worry about the chassis first. When I get some more of the SK ammo in I’ll see if today was just a fluke. I really hope it wasn’t. The groups it shot today were pretty amazing with the SK. I did notice that the barrel shot faster than my Tikka. It was shooting the Eley Contact about 40fps faster than my Tikka. Of course the Contact wasn’t that impressive.
I messaged KRG yesterday about 457 chassis. They said that they don't have a firm ETA but are planning for around the first of the year.
Went out today to test out Eley Contact & a new lot of Eley Target. Got my Atlas bipod back so I was happy to get back in prone and shoot. Shot around 1.1 to 1.5" @ 99 yards. Seems to be the going rate for my $5 a box ammo.
Tested out to 200 yards, and averaged 5-6" groups, shot 10 rounds groups as I was testing out the zero. It was a 6" vertical stringing, with a 2.5" L&R. This matches up with what I'd expect given the vertical deviation at my 100 yard groups. My 100 yard groups are generally .5" left & right, with a 1.5" vertical up & down. They usually say multiple it by 3-4x when going from 100 to 200 yards.
The worst issue was a ton of FTE even with cycling the bolt diligently. In the 75 rounds I shot, I got 5 FTE. After the session I looked in the chamber and running the action is super smooth, like the ejector spring is not providing very much friction. It doesn't protrude very much nor spring all that much either. I tried to bend it with my finger and ended up popping it out so I had to go home and use some pliers to put it back in. I need to try to bend the wire more, but overall, this ejector design is pretty flawed.
How does the CZ eject it's rounds? What design do they use?
Tested out to 200 yards, and averaged 5-6" groups, shot 10 rounds groups as I was testing out the zero. It was a 6" vertical stringing, with a 2.5" L&R. This matches up with what I'd expect given the vertical deviation at my 100 yard groups. My 100 yard groups are generally .5" left & right, with a 1.5" vertical up & down. They usually say multiple it by 3-4x when going from 100 to 200 yards.
The worst issue was a ton of FTE even with cycling the bolt diligently. In the 75 rounds I shot, I got 5 FTE. After the session I looked in the chamber and running the action is super smooth, like the ejector spring is not providing very much friction. It doesn't protrude very much nor spring all that much either. I tried to bend it with my finger and ended up popping it out so I had to go home and use some pliers to put it back in. I need to try to bend the wire more, but overall, this ejector design is pretty flawed.
How does the CZ eject it's rounds? What design do they use?
Try unscrewing the screw that holds the ejector to the mag housing about 1 turn. Originally I backed it off to allow the ejector to float a little bit more to improve feeding, noticed stronger ejection as well. About 800 rounds now, not a single ftf or fte.
Thanks! I never really paid attention to the gun and how that all worked until now. I took everything apart and unscrewed the mag well. I actually tightened the screw because there wasn't much spring to the wire, and tightening it a bit more seems like hopefully it'll flick that casing a little better. I also bent it a bit like in the pictures people have posted earlier.
I had issues putting everything back together... bolt would not go back in. Drove me nuts. Then I realized one of the washers for the rear action screw had fallen on the ground, once that 1/10 inch washer was in, everything was great. I'll have to go to the range early in the morning and see if it works out.
There rarly is .I know the pain
I use 20 cal rods. The thread issue is a bit of a pain.
You can get 5/40 - 8/32 adapters.
You can also re-thread the fittings.
Here's a 22 cal jag that I re-threaded to 5/40 shown next to an unmodified example. I chucked it in a drill, turned down the thread with a fine file and then re-threaded with a 5/40 die. I also turned down the base of the jag to match the diameter of my cleaning rod.
View attachment 7154655
That's nice work for using drill chuck to turn those.
Meant to post this in this thread -
Bending the ejector wire and tightening it up, my rounds really eject! This is fantastic. Now there is a bit of a lock up when feeding but it does go in fine with a little bit more muscle.
I was worried that this might be marring the rounds but in manually cycled and ejected the rounds a little marking where it looks like the bottom of the round gets slightly caught on bottom of the barrel. I notice that when I remove the magazine well, there's about 1/8" of play that can happen. I might fool around with adjusting that. I totally forgot to do it while at the range.
I shot about 100 rounds today, Eley Contact, Eley Target, and a new lot of Eley Target (Shiny Gold Packaging). Zero FTE, even with weak extractions, that little bend to the ejector wire really flies those rings out. It's exciting! Here's a mixed sheet of Eley Target/Eley Contact. I shot 5 fouling rounds after going from Eley Contact -> Target. Overall Eley Target shoots better. My adjustment from my old lot of Eley Target is 0.2 mil up.
That little marring on the round doesn't seem to effect the precision. I cycled 10 rounds, and then reloaded 10 rounds so it'd be double marring and no drop off in precision.
Eley Contact @ 200yards, 10 shots.
Bending the ejector wire and tightening it up, my rounds really eject! This is fantastic. Now there is a bit of a lock up when feeding but it does go in fine with a little bit more muscle.
I was worried that this might be marring the rounds but in manually cycled and ejected the rounds a little marking where it looks like the bottom of the round gets slightly caught on bottom of the barrel. I notice that when I remove the magazine well, there's about 1/8" of play that can happen. I might fool around with adjusting that. I totally forgot to do it while at the range.
I shot about 100 rounds today, Eley Contact, Eley Target, and a new lot of Eley Target (Shiny Gold Packaging). Zero FTE, even with weak extractions, that little bend to the ejector wire really flies those rings out. It's exciting! Here's a mixed sheet of Eley Target/Eley Contact. I shot 5 fouling rounds after going from Eley Contact -> Target. Overall Eley Target shoots better. My adjustment from my old lot of Eley Target is 0.2 mil up.
That little marring on the round doesn't seem to effect the precision. I cycled 10 rounds, and then reloaded 10 rounds so it'd be double marring and no drop off in precision.
Eley Contact @ 200yards, 10 shots.
It a shame you can't shoot at 50 yards. I think 100 yard shooting for accuracy evaluation is not ideal. Honestly I bet your Tikka is more accurate than what it seems. Not insinuating that it isn't now just that a 1" - 1 3/8" group at 100 could really be 3/8" - 1/2" at 50 yards.
Yeh I am trying to get my local range to build a 50 yard berm.
25 yards is kind of useless.
25 yards is kind of useless.
Maybe I just got some really good lots of the Eley contact but all of it I have shot so far has been fantastic in my rifle. It also shoots extremely consistently for me as far as velocity goes. Almost everything I shot come out of the rifle between 1090 and 1100. I had a few that were out of that window but only 2 out of 20. They were 1110 and 1114 if I remember correctly. I only chronographed 20 rounds but I though that was a pretty good indicator of velocity.
Yeh lucky lot! Maybe I should order my next batch from LAXAmmo and maybe I'll get some good stuff. I noticed my current lots of Eley Target and Eley Contact are substantially slower. Eley Target still has less drop, 7.5@ 200, 2.0 @ 100, whereas my last lot was 1.9 @ 100 and 7.1 @ 200. Contact is 2.2 @ 100, and 7.8 @ 200.
It could also be temperature based, as it's probably 15 degrees cooler now then when I shot my previous lots. This is my first season shooting rimfire, so not sure yet as I've only shot in 70 degree weather, and now it's in the 50s.
My dope is 1.7 at 100 and 6.6 at 200 so I’m shooting significantly faster.
Happy early thanksgiving. Lapua Center X is consistently 1/2” at 50 yards. Good enough for a turkey head shot at 30 yd today.
@Graywolf.260 good job!
Great job! That's awesome.
I cleaned after about 500 rounds and felt like accuracy fell off and never really came back spent some time terrified that I'd somehow messed something up. I'd always grown up hearing that, "more rimfires are ruined by cleaning than helped by cleaning" so I thought maybe I'd made that come true. I've never owned a rimfire before that was accurate enough for it to matter. I did a bit more research and on my next cleaning I used Shooter's Choice Lead Remover with my cleaning and everything shot like new afterward. I did some ammo testing and had a couple 1/4" groups at 50 yards with SK Rifle Match and then put 10 shots at 0.970" at 100 yards. I have about 500 rounds threw the rifle since that cleaning and am starting to see more flyers again so I'm going to clean again and see if I get the same results.
Yes my last time cleaning, it was back shooting the way I wanted within 10 rounds so I am happy. I think there is some notion of improperly cleaning it. So it is possible that instead of a thorough cleaning, maybe the barrel was not cleaned thoroughly leaving weird trace amounts causing not-uniform flight of the bullet, and it took a about 150 rounds or so to get it back "uniform". This last time I really cleaned it using Boretech's C4 Rimfire Blend, and did the 15minute kind of soak, and about 10 dry patches until they were clean. Had about 7 fouling rounds and started grouping well.
Does anyone make iron sights for the T1x? I really would like an iron sight trainer.
I would bet Williams makes one for the dovetail on the rear, it would be a universal type sight. For the front I would imagine you would have to find another universal type sight in the right diameter and sweat or glue it on.
That would be a good project, I like shooting with peep sights and that's what I would get. That's actually a good idea and gives me a reason to keep my other T1x.
My interest has peaked. So far I have this rear sight that may work.
Here is another.
That would be a good project, I like shooting with peep sights and that's what I would get. That's actually a good idea and gives me a reason to keep my other T1x.
My interest has peaked. So far I have this rear sight that may work.
Here is another.
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For a front sight I would get something like this Lyman front globe peep sight. You will have to find a base to mount the peep sight to the barrel. That shouldn't be hard to find, either the sweat on or drill type would work, whichever you felt comfortable working with.
Rant Durden,
I have a Williams peep sight for my CZ 452 that will work on the Tikka. I'll have photos up later on today.
I have a Williams peep sight for my CZ 452 that will work on the Tikka. I'll have photos up later on today.
Who shortened your barrel? I'm thinking about sending it to LRI for chop and rethread.
I heard so many great things about LRI. But I know nothing about gunsmithing as in what these companies can do. Can I just like order barrel blanks and have them fully chamber it and get it mated to my Tikka T1X? Send my Tikka and blank barrel to them and they'll just make everything work?
Yes you can. That what I’m going to haven’t smith do at some point. I’m gonna have my guy fit it to my action.
That’s what I’m having done to mine. I just dropped my rifle and barrel blank off to my smith. He is going to chamber it with the Eley EPS chamber, fit it to my action and properly head space it. All in I should be under $400 for the work and barrel blank. For the blank I bought a Feddersen because I have had such good luck with them in the past. I considered a Bartlein or Lilja but I can’t really see them shooting that much better than the Feddersen especially considering it’s for positional shooting. The cost difference between the two was pretty significant. If you want I can get an email contact for him. I have been told that if you use the Eley reamer most SK and Lapua ammo will not chamber properly so if you plan to shoot SK you may want a different chamber cut.
Interesting yo uwent with an Eley EPS chamber. Only their higher end ammo is EPS right? Tenex and Match. Target, Club, and Contact are all LRN?
I guess I'd still like to avoid the SK/Lapua oil lube, so yeh it'd be most likely Eley ammo.
I guess I'd still like to avoid the SK/Lapua oil lube, so yeh it'd be most likely Eley ammo.
The Eley Edge which I really like as well has the eps bullet but I was told it works equally well with their standard round nose ammo too. I should be fine with CCI SV too. My understanding is the rim on Lapua made ammo is a little thicker and you can have issues closing the bolt with the Eley chamber. Since I really don’t like the lube on Lapua ammo anyway I will not lose any sleep over not being able to shoot it in that rifle.
T1x, Berserk stock, Atholon Cronus mounted on Area 419 30 moa rail
If you want him to chamber and mount your barrel the only hiccup may be getting the old barrel off. It seems like everyone that has a barrel with the Torx screws has to drill them out. That could add some additional time to the barrel swap.
When do you get all your work done? Did you just call Federssen to send you a blank? Looks like the route you went would be the way to go... ~$400 ish, + $100 for shipping.
Looking forward to your results.
My rifle is with my rifle smith right now. I’m guessing he has already ordered the reamer. For the barrel I called Feddersen and told them what I wanted. I just ordered a blank that was turned to size and threaded but the chamber end was left for a gunsmith to chamber and finish. I’m hoping he can work my rifle into his schedule pretty quick but we will have to see how quick he can get the reamer.
Rant Durden, this is for you.
Here is the Williams rear peep sight I have for my CZ 452's. It will work on the Tikka if mounted on the forward section on the dovetail rail. It can be mounted on the rear but a small portion would need to be removed with a dremel tool so as to not make contact with the bolt release. I prefer it in the back for the longer sight radius but it really depends on how my eyes see the sights. Here are a few photos showing what I have. I measured the barrel and it's the same diameter for at least a couple of inches back from the threaded section. This makes it a lot easier to mount a front base.
Here are a few photos with the sight in the rear position and showing where it hits the bolt release.
Here is the contact area, very very minimal and could easily be removed without affecting the integrity of the sight.
I have a lot going on right now with an IBI barrel coming for my Tikka T1x and a Lilja 17 HM2 barrel for my Sako Finnfire Range but I'll see what I can come up with for a front sight.
Here is the Williams rear peep sight I have for my CZ 452's. It will work on the Tikka if mounted on the forward section on the dovetail rail. It can be mounted on the rear but a small portion would need to be removed with a dremel tool so as to not make contact with the bolt release. I prefer it in the back for the longer sight radius but it really depends on how my eyes see the sights. Here are a few photos showing what I have. I measured the barrel and it's the same diameter for at least a couple of inches back from the threaded section. This makes it a lot easier to mount a front base.
Here are a few photos with the sight in the rear position and showing where it hits the bolt release.
Here is the contact area, very very minimal and could easily be removed without affecting the integrity of the sight.
I have a lot going on right now with an IBI barrel coming for my Tikka T1x and a Lilja 17 HM2 barrel for my Sako Finnfire Range but I'll see what I can come up with for a front sight.
Went to the mountains today for some trigger therapy. Was hitting 12" steel at 354 yards pretty consistently w/ Center X in some fairly heavy wind. CCI-SV was hitting pretty well and even the Federal Target at 1200 FPS would hit.
This is me on my 5.56 shooting the same target w/ some M185green tip out of my 'budget' AR which shoots pretty good. You can really see the wind in this video. You can hear me hit it at about 21 seconds in. I was much more consistent w/ the Tikka as it was much better supported in an ARCA clamp on the tripod. This one was just resting on top on a bag.
This is me on my 5.56 shooting the same target w/ some M185green tip out of my 'budget' AR which shoots pretty good. You can really see the wind in this video. You can hear me hit it at about 21 seconds in. I was much more consistent w/ the Tikka as it was much better supported in an ARCA clamp on the tripod. This one was just resting on top on a bag.
Thanks Kissofdeath,
looks like a setup that would work for me. I'll just have to find a smith to do the front sight. I'd do it myself, but I can't focus on your sight setup without fading into looking at your pistols. Damn ADD, guess I gotta hire a pro! Is one of those a 5906 0r 6906?
looks like a setup that would work for me. I'll just have to find a smith to do the front sight. I'd do it myself, but I can't focus on your sight setup without fading into looking at your pistols. Damn ADD, guess I gotta hire a pro! Is one of those a 5906 0r 6906?
You know how muzzle brakes these days can be self timed through these locking clamps? Like the Area 419 Hellfire brake. Technically they could do something like that for a front sight right? That'd be nice and easy to do. Screw on front sight for threaded barrels.
Compensators Archives - Ultradyne
Muzzle Brakes When shooting a gun, every action that occurs after firing has an equal and opposite reaction. When a large gun is fired, there will be an equally large recoil. This recoil greatly affects the accuracy of the shot. Muzzle brakes attach to the muzzle of the gun and help reduce...
ultradyneusa.com 
After seeing how this gun's barrel is retained (the set screws mashing the barrel) I think it explains the very different accuracy some people are experiencing. I think how heavy handed the factory assembler is could vary how the bore is constricted at this most critical place on the barrel...ie...at the throat of the bore.
If you slug a quality barrel you can feel ANY outside constriction (even a slightly over torqued tuner on the muzzle, or if a threaded bbl is over torqued to the receiver) in the bore. This is not as critical in a gun using a jacketed bullet, as brass has "spring" and will not be as affected by a tight spot in the bore.
BUT...pure lead (.22 RF) is "dead", ie...it has no "spring back" and ANY deformation of the bullet in the bore stays deformed after the constriction.
If it was me, I would not use the highly torqued set screws to install a new high end barrel (I would even fix this on a FACTORY bbl).
I would do the following:
1. Remove barrel, make sure ALL old adhesive is removed from receiver. Temporarily install new barrel, set headspace (.042 feeler guage), and LIGHTLY torque setscrews in proper location.
2. Check function, go out and shoot a couple boxes of shells and make sure everything works properly (fix/adjust as needed).
3. Tighten/loosen the REARMOST (the one only over the chamber) setscrew several times as to make a little divot in the barrel...just so you can put the bbl back in EXACTLY the same spot on reassembly (you'll be able to see and feel the setscrew go back into the divot upon reassembly).
4. Disassemble everything, clean everything with brake cleaner to degrease. I'd use Rocksett (or one of the proper Loctite compounds) and coat all mating surfaces, then install the barrel, and replace the setscrew (just to locate the bbl.). I like Rocksett, as you just have to soak overnight in water to remove, no heat needed.
5. When cured, loosen the setscrew.....I would probably reinstall the three setscrews with blue Loctite at very low torque (ie...only use short end of allen wrench to tighten).
This would relieve the bore mashing stress of the three setscrews. Might even make a factory barrel shoot better!
Thanks Kissofdeath for the good pics that explains/shows the details of assembly!
Here's the post with his pics....
If you slug a quality barrel you can feel ANY outside constriction (even a slightly over torqued tuner on the muzzle, or if a threaded bbl is over torqued to the receiver) in the bore. This is not as critical in a gun using a jacketed bullet, as brass has "spring" and will not be as affected by a tight spot in the bore.
BUT...pure lead (.22 RF) is "dead", ie...it has no "spring back" and ANY deformation of the bullet in the bore stays deformed after the constriction.
If it was me, I would not use the highly torqued set screws to install a new high end barrel (I would even fix this on a FACTORY bbl).
I would do the following:
1. Remove barrel, make sure ALL old adhesive is removed from receiver. Temporarily install new barrel, set headspace (.042 feeler guage), and LIGHTLY torque setscrews in proper location.
2. Check function, go out and shoot a couple boxes of shells and make sure everything works properly (fix/adjust as needed).
3. Tighten/loosen the REARMOST (the one only over the chamber) setscrew several times as to make a little divot in the barrel...just so you can put the bbl back in EXACTLY the same spot on reassembly (you'll be able to see and feel the setscrew go back into the divot upon reassembly).
4. Disassemble everything, clean everything with brake cleaner to degrease. I'd use Rocksett (or one of the proper Loctite compounds) and coat all mating surfaces, then install the barrel, and replace the setscrew (just to locate the bbl.). I like Rocksett, as you just have to soak overnight in water to remove, no heat needed.
5. When cured, loosen the setscrew.....I would probably reinstall the three setscrews with blue Loctite at very low torque (ie...only use short end of allen wrench to tighten).
This would relieve the bore mashing stress of the three setscrews. Might even make a factory barrel shoot better!
Thanks Kissofdeath for the good pics that explains/shows the details of assembly!
Here's the post with his pics....
Just noticed that Benchmark Barrels are in WA and close by. Going to give them a call and see what they can do.
Several questions were brought up over the last two pages of this thread - thought I'd throw out some info/opinions in reply. On the cleaning rod - I bought a 20 cal SS rod several years ago after building myself a CF rifle in 20 VarTarg, and since the hammer forged bbls on the two CZ457s I bought have very tight bores, decided to use the 20 cal rod I already had. I did buy a 5-40/8-32 thread adapter from Pro Shot to allow me to use .22 jag & brushes that have 8-32 threads on this rod. ProShot's p/n is: 17AD, which cost $2.99. I still use this rod, even after removing & replacing both OEM CZ bbls with Shilen select match ratchet rifled blanks.
Lilja offers 'drop-in' replacement bbls for CZ 455/457s, but they cut a pretty deep set of 'divots' (for lack of a better word) for the CZ grub screws to bear against, which is what locks the bbl into the action. I didn't want to mill those cuts in the shank. For one thing, I'm lazy, and didn't want to go through all the work to set the bbl up in my mill to get the cuts in the right place. More importantly, I didn't want those cuts removing so much steel right over the chamber, and possibly letting the bore expand a bit at the deepest point of the cut. I used Loctite #609 retaining compound to glue the bbl into the action, which was not only simpler (once I'd gotten the shank cut to length to insure proper headspace), but also means there's no stress on either the bbl or action created by torquing the grub screws in place. I mention all this because a person could use the same method of bbl retention on a T1x. I should mention that #609 can be softened with heat - it's supposed to soften/break-down at 280*F, but after having to remove the Shilen that I'd glued in on my 457 American due to having set headspace too tight, I found that you'll see a little puff of smoke and the bbl will pull right out when temp reaches about 265*F (was checking temp with an infared temp sensor as I heated the 457s action with a butane torch). Perhaps this is what you guys need to resort to while trying to remove a T1x bbl?
Yes, the Vudoo V-22 has 90* bolt throw - that's what you get with a 2-lug bolt, no way around it. I've built myself repeaters on Stiller 2500XR, a couple of jelrod-converted 40X repeaters, and three V-22s, plus another V-22 for a customer. All these actions have 90* throw, which is all I ever ran until getting the 457s, so I was very used to it. Bear in mind though, that spreading the throw required to cock the firing pin over 90* means the cocking effort is easier than when cocking a bolt on an action that has 60* throw. Simply stated, the angle of the cocking ramp is steeper on a bolt with 60* throw than it is on one with 90* throw. My V-22s run so smoothly that there's almost no comparison to how easy it is to run their 90* throw bolts vs. the 457s' 60* throw - even with extended bolt handle knobs on the 457s (which, if you didn't already know, have threaded handles for easy changing of the knob).
Lastly, I've chambered all the bbls I've used on all the above mentioned rifles with a PTG EPS reamer. They all handle & shoot SK/Lapua ammo just as easily as they do Eley, even though SK rim thickness averages .041", while Eley is .037". I typically shoot for .042" headspace. Mike Bush's RAVAGE reamer is designed to be optimal with Lapua Center-X; since I've not seen a reamer print for it, I can't say how or where it's different from my EPS reamer. I do have a Bartlein bbl w/RAVAGE chamber on one of the V-22 bbl'd actions purchased last year, so have compared accuracy out of it to that of the several bbls (Benchmark, Krieger, Lilja, Shilen) I've chambered with my EPS. Either I'm not a good enough shooter to tell the difference, or there isn't that much difference. I wouldn't worry about getting a special reamer ground for use with SK/Lapua ammo, at least, not based on my experience with my rifles. BTW - I've shot several recent lots of Eley Match (with the EPS bullet form) through my rifles, and they all shot it about the same as the best lot of Lapua Center-X I have. I don't run the EPS ammo in matches because it doesn't feed as smoothly as round nose ammo.
Lilja offers 'drop-in' replacement bbls for CZ 455/457s, but they cut a pretty deep set of 'divots' (for lack of a better word) for the CZ grub screws to bear against, which is what locks the bbl into the action. I didn't want to mill those cuts in the shank. For one thing, I'm lazy, and didn't want to go through all the work to set the bbl up in my mill to get the cuts in the right place. More importantly, I didn't want those cuts removing so much steel right over the chamber, and possibly letting the bore expand a bit at the deepest point of the cut. I used Loctite #609 retaining compound to glue the bbl into the action, which was not only simpler (once I'd gotten the shank cut to length to insure proper headspace), but also means there's no stress on either the bbl or action created by torquing the grub screws in place. I mention all this because a person could use the same method of bbl retention on a T1x. I should mention that #609 can be softened with heat - it's supposed to soften/break-down at 280*F, but after having to remove the Shilen that I'd glued in on my 457 American due to having set headspace too tight, I found that you'll see a little puff of smoke and the bbl will pull right out when temp reaches about 265*F (was checking temp with an infared temp sensor as I heated the 457s action with a butane torch). Perhaps this is what you guys need to resort to while trying to remove a T1x bbl?
Yes, the Vudoo V-22 has 90* bolt throw - that's what you get with a 2-lug bolt, no way around it. I've built myself repeaters on Stiller 2500XR, a couple of jelrod-converted 40X repeaters, and three V-22s, plus another V-22 for a customer. All these actions have 90* throw, which is all I ever ran until getting the 457s, so I was very used to it. Bear in mind though, that spreading the throw required to cock the firing pin over 90* means the cocking effort is easier than when cocking a bolt on an action that has 60* throw. Simply stated, the angle of the cocking ramp is steeper on a bolt with 60* throw than it is on one with 90* throw. My V-22s run so smoothly that there's almost no comparison to how easy it is to run their 90* throw bolts vs. the 457s' 60* throw - even with extended bolt handle knobs on the 457s (which, if you didn't already know, have threaded handles for easy changing of the knob).
Lastly, I've chambered all the bbls I've used on all the above mentioned rifles with a PTG EPS reamer. They all handle & shoot SK/Lapua ammo just as easily as they do Eley, even though SK rim thickness averages .041", while Eley is .037". I typically shoot for .042" headspace. Mike Bush's RAVAGE reamer is designed to be optimal with Lapua Center-X; since I've not seen a reamer print for it, I can't say how or where it's different from my EPS reamer. I do have a Bartlein bbl w/RAVAGE chamber on one of the V-22 bbl'd actions purchased last year, so have compared accuracy out of it to that of the several bbls (Benchmark, Krieger, Lilja, Shilen) I've chambered with my EPS. Either I'm not a good enough shooter to tell the difference, or there isn't that much difference. I wouldn't worry about getting a special reamer ground for use with SK/Lapua ammo, at least, not based on my experience with my rifles. BTW - I've shot several recent lots of Eley Match (with the EPS bullet form) through my rifles, and they all shot it about the same as the best lot of Lapua Center-X I have. I don't run the EPS ammo in matches because it doesn't feed as smoothly as round nose ammo.
LOL, yeah, no need to put them up. I don't have those but what are the 5906 and 6906?
That's a good idea, not sure how it would look as far as eye appealing but should be functional.
Don't remember the model but it's the Williams with target knobs made for the CZ 452.
Tried out Eley Club and Match Pistol again today. Previously fouled with Eley Target, so knew I was going to be having some fouling groups as I switched to Club and Match. First shot of Club was way low, but the rest grouped as well as Club generally groups for me.
Eley Match Pistol got tighter and tighter as I did my 6x5. Didn't send out any fouling rounds in between Club and Match. I do notice that Match has a different lube than my Club does. Goes from bottom left, then top right and down.
Eley Match Pistol got tighter and tighter as I did my 6x5. Didn't send out any fouling rounds in between Club and Match. I do notice that Match has a different lube than my Club does. Goes from bottom left, then top right and down.
