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Tikka T1X

The grip on the Bravo is way too big for my hands so pulled apart my W3 chassis for a little experimentation. Definitely like T1x better like this but can't leave it because I want the W3 on my 6.5.
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We need to put pressure on KRG to release just the subframe for the Bravo T1 stock. That way those of us with old Whiskeys could take our forends grips and stock and put them on the subframe!
 
Finally finished putting the T1X together for the most part. The only thing I might change would be the Crimson Trace 6-24x scope to a PST Gen II for improved clarity. It is been a ton of fun on steel this fall and can't wait to get out on the stage at fields in the spring. Just picked up an x-ray stock that I attempted to try and modify for the rifle. Only thing I have since changed is an Atlas bipod.
 

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Since I haven't shot with a suppressor in a while, went out to shoot today and really test how the SilencerCo Sparrow affects my groups on the Tikka, and also it's probably the last 2 weeks I have with a threaded barrel since the IBI barrel won't be threaded. I had a zero wind day today and the rifle shoots significantly tighter with the suppressor on than without. My horizontal spread was about halved. I was getting 1/2" horizontal spread at 100 yards, and only 1.5" of horizontal spread at 200 yards! 10 shot groups, it was pretty crazy how tight the group was. The issue I had with Eley Target, was I was getting really bad vertical spread. With the suppressor on I didn't have any hearing protection and could definitely hear a huge sound difference. I also was getting some velocity difference as well a

Every once in a while there would be a whisper quiet shot, which also ended up being a 2-3" drop at 100 yards. And it was a 10" drop at 200 yards for that shot.

I then took off the suppressor thinking that something was going weird with it on, and noticed the same issues which made me feel like this was just a bad box of ammo. Had the exact same results in terms of drop, but a lot more spread w/o the suppressor. Was getting about 1" horizontal spread, and the same 2-3" drops every once in a while. At 200 yards, I was getting a 3" horizontal spread.

I went back to 100 yards, and wanted to do 5 more shots before it got dark. 3 shots went off fine, 4th shot, I didn't hear anything, and just saw a little smoke out come out of the barrel. I've never had this happen before and thought maybe it was a squib or something, so I went straight home and didn't shoot again. I ran a dry patch through the rifle and there wasn't a bullet to be found, but it was really odd. Definitely just a bad box of ammo. The first 150 rounds of the lot haven't had any issues, so I'm curious what the remaining 300 will do...

I hope the IBI shoots as well as my current Tikka w/ a suppressor on it.
 
+1 on the DIP 25moa rail. Have not done a comparison of others, but no issues with the DIP unit.
 
I have a dip 0 moa rail for my t1x. I have 2 unimount works and all other unimount will not fit. So I mill/cut 1 slot to accommodate all my 20moa Mount.
 
Hey guys, I have read EVERY one of the 58 pages. Great info.

I am planning to build this up to do NRL22 and as a trainer for my JHC 6.5 PRS gun.

Here's my plan:
T1x, Aea419 rail, KRG Bravo, do a casting to get the bolt know similar to the one on my ARC nucleus (later). I plan to pull the optics off my precision gasser and put them on this since it has the same turrets and reticle as my match gun, they are a Leupold MK5 3-18, Leupold can reduce the parallax so it will be clear at 25yards.

Here are my questions:
Which base height 15 or 30moa should I order from Area419?
Should I use the same height rings as on my match gun to keep eye relief and handling the same or go lower given its a .22?
Are the 16" guns available anywhere?
 
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If you are going to be shooting PRS style 22 matches you will want the 30 moa rail. I have the dip 25 moa rail and can dial just past 400 yards which will be 20mils give or take. We shoot to 200-300 yards in most matches but have ELR matches out to 400-500 as well.

For the rings I went with the same height but both of my rifles are Tikkas in KRG Bravo’s.

As far as I know the 16” models are not available in the US. I’m having a 16” barrel custom fit to mine. I wanted a shorter heavier barrel. Now I just have to hope the custom barrel is as accurate as the factory barrel. Both of my Tikka’s are very impressive as far as accuracy goes.
 
Hail all from the UK.
T1X is my first rimfire though previously field trained with my mates excellent CZ452. When the CZ 457 came out I was disappointed that a poly stock wasn't forth coming and the previous CZ models 'soft' touch poly stock wasn't to my liking. I loved the look of the CZ Royal but my rifle is for vermin control so I needed something that could lay in a wet muddy ditch with and not cry at wrecking a lovely stock. Hence the T1X was suggested and a 16" barrel version purchased.


WhatsApp Image 2019-10-27 at 14.35.49.jpeg


I'm a big lad and found the OEM stock with beaver fore-end and larger palm swell fitted well, practical and light... but I had seen the GRS Bi-Frost stock in the store and knew where the near future lay. I part exchanged a surplus PCP air-rifle for the GRS in green and still had change for a AIM rifle bag thrown into the deal.

T1X was tested with various sub-sonic ammo and settled on CCI 40g HP Subs (1050fps). Later that was changed to CCI 40g Segmented HP Subs (same zero) 50 yard sub 1/2inch groups - lovely. The results even forced my friend to clean his cz452's barrel (something he never does!) so that he could match the group size. I also shoot CCI segmented quiets (710fps) for squirrel hunting at less that 25 yard.

The scope is a Hawke Vantage 3-9x50 with a BDC Subsonic rimfire reticle. I've plinked with this scope out to 150yard on a 4 inch gong with the reticle being pretty accurate. Moving back to 175yard I had to walk the bullets onto the plate - moving back and forth a few yards made a big difference at that range using sub-sonic ammo but once on the mark - hit the gong pretty much every time. Really though, I only use x4 zoom in the field hunting and x9 only when plinking or zeroing. The scope is budget but I wont cry if it gets bashed, though if a x4 scope of quality comes into my budget I'd consider it. The scope rings are mounted to Contessa T1X 0 MOA rail mount of sublime quality.

The moderator fitted is a Wildcat Whisper. As the critics point out it is no quieter than the ever so popular SAK moderator but is x4 the price. BUT the Whisper easily strippable for cleaning and is of an overbarrel design which keeps things compact which is why I went for a 16" barrel in the first place. Plus, every man and his dog here in the UK seems to go for a SAK on their rimfire and I had the budget not to follow suite.

I recently replaced the bottom plastic with an HVHA T1X bottom metal for no reason than .... gear tarting. Funny thing is that it still feels and sounds like plastic.

I've had no accuracy or feed issues what so ever with the rifle. i didn't really need to change the stock or bottom metal but have no regrets having done so. I haven't figured out why people want the change the bolt handle or barrel and it's probably best for my wallet that i do not. I have shot high velocity ammo (minimag/velocitors) and I'm not sure the rifle is best suited for such ammo but haven't shot enough for that to be conclusive.

I'm happy laying in a cold wet muddy ditch for hours with this rile.
 

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Hail all from the UK.
T1X is my first rimfire though previously field trained with my mates excellent CZ452. When the CZ 457 came out I was disappointed that a poly stock wasn't forth coming and the previous CZ models 'soft' touch poly stock wasn't to my liking. I loved the look of the CZ Royal but my rifle is for vermin control so I needed something that could lay in a wet muddy ditch with and not cry at wrecking a lovely stock. Hence the T1X was suggested and a 16" barrel version purchased.


WhatsApp Image 2019-10-27 at 14.35.49.jpeg


I'm a big lad and found the OEM stock with beaver fore-end and larger palm swell fitted well, practical and light... but I had seen the GRS Bi-Frost stock in the store and knew where the near future lay. I part exchanged a surplus PCP air-rifle for the GRS in green and still had change for a AIM rifle bag thrown into the deal.

T1X was tested with various sub-sonic ammo and settled on CCI 40g HP Subs (1050fps). Later that was changed to CCI 40g Segmented HP Subs (same zero) 50 yard sub 1/2inch groups - lovely. The results even forced my friend to clean his cz452's barrel (something he never does!) so that he could match the group size. I also shoot CCI segmented quiets (710fps) for squirrel hunting at less that 25 yard.

The scope is a Hawke Vantage 3-9x50 with a BDC Subsonic rimfire reticle. I've plinked with this scope out to 150yard on a 4 inch gong with the reticle being pretty accurate. Moving back to 175yard I had to walk the bullets onto the plate - moving back and forth a few yards made a big difference at that range using sub-sonic ammo but once on the mark - hit the gong pretty much every time. Really though, I only use x4 zoom in the field hunting and x9 only when plinking or zeroing. The scope is budget but I wont cry if it gets bashed, though if a x4 scope of quality comes into my budget I'd consider it. The scope rings are mounted to Contessa T1X 0 MOA rail mount of sublime quality.

The moderator fitted is a Wildcat Whisper. As the critics point out it is no quieter than the ever so popular SAK moderator but is x4 the price. BUT the Whisper easily strippable for cleaning and is of an overbarrel design which keeps things compact which is why I went for a 16" barrel in the first place. Plus, every man and his dog here in the UK seems to go for a SAK on their rimfire and I had the budget not to follow suite.

I recently replaced the bottom plastic with an HVHA T1X bottom metal for no reason than .... gear tarting. Funny thing is that it still feels and sounds like plastic.

I've had no accuracy or feed issues what so ever with the rifle. i didn't really need to change the stock or bottom metal but have no regrets having done so. I haven't figured out why people want the change the bolt handle or barrel and it's probably best for my wallet that i do not. I have shot high velocity ammo (minimag/velocitors) and I'm not sure the rifle is best suited for such ammo but haven't shot enough for that to be conclusive.

I'm happy laying in a cold wet muddy ditch for hours with this rile.
Looks awesome! Really makes me wish they sold the 16 in the states
 
Hail all from the UK.
T1X is my first rimfire though previously field trained with my mates excellent CZ452. When the CZ 457 came out I was disappointed that a poly stock wasn't forth coming and the previous CZ models 'soft' touch poly stock wasn't to my liking. I loved the look of the CZ Royal but my rifle is for vermin control so I needed something that could lay in a wet muddy ditch with and not cry at wrecking a lovely stock. Hence the T1X was suggested and a 16" barrel version purchased.


WhatsApp Image 2019-10-27 at 14.35.49.jpeg


I'm a big lad and found the OEM stock with beaver fore-end and larger palm swell fitted well, practical and light... but I had seen the GRS Bi-Frost stock in the store and knew where the near future lay. I part exchanged a surplus PCP air-rifle for the GRS in green and still had change for a AIM rifle bag thrown into the deal.

T1X was tested with various sub-sonic ammo and settled on CCI 40g HP Subs (1050fps). Later that was changed to CCI 40g Segmented HP Subs (same zero) 50 yard sub 1/2inch groups - lovely. The results even forced my friend to clean his cz452's barrel (something he never does!) so that he could match the group size. I also shoot CCI segmented quiets (710fps) for squirrel hunting at less that 25 yard.

The scope is a Hawke Vantage 3-9x50 with a BDC Subsonic rimfire reticle. I've plinked with this scope out to 150yard on a 4 inch gong with the reticle being pretty accurate. Moving back to 175yard I had to walk the bullets onto the plate - moving back and forth a few yards made a big difference at that range using sub-sonic ammo but once on the mark - hit the gong pretty much every time. Really though, I only use x4 zoom in the field hunting and x9 only when plinking or zeroing. The scope is budget but I wont cry if it gets bashed, though if a x4 scope of quality comes into my budget I'd consider it. The scope rings are mounted to Contessa T1X 0 MOA rail mount of sublime quality.

The moderator fitted is a Wildcat Whisper. As the critics point out it is no quieter than the ever so popular SAK moderator but is x4 the price. BUT the Whisper easily strippable for cleaning and is of an overbarrel design which keeps things compact which is why I went for a 16" barrel in the first place. Plus, every man and his dog here in the UK seems to go for a SAK on their rimfire and I had the budget not to follow suite.

I recently replaced the bottom plastic with an HVHA T1X bottom metal for no reason than .... gear tarting. Funny thing is that it still feels and sounds like plastic.

I've had no accuracy or feed issues what so ever with the rifle. i didn't really need to change the stock or bottom metal but have no regrets having done so. I haven't figured out why people want the change the bolt handle or barrel and it's probably best for my wallet that i do not. I have shot high velocity ammo (minimag/velocitors) and I'm not sure the rifle is best suited for such ammo but haven't shot enough for that to be conclusive.

I'm happy laying in a cold wet muddy ditch for hours with this rile.


I was content w/ the factory handle as well but fell victim to my need to upgrade and reviews were nothing but excellent. Kinda of wish I didn't because now I want one on my Tac A1 as well. It's worth the entry price even though the stock unit works well. You don't know until you try the Sterk.
 
I was content w/ the factory handle as well but fell victim to my need to upgrade and reviews were nothing but excellent. Kinda of wish I didn't because now I want one on my Tac A1 as well. It's worth the entry price even though the stock unit works well. You don't know until you try the Sterk.
I wanted to try a sterk but went dip instead and it works really well and like it
 

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November's NRL22 match is having us do a scoring target at 100 yards. Eley Target with a factory Tikka isn't going to cut it shooting .5" at 100 yards... 100 yards, weak side, prone, 10 shots alternating on 2 of these targets, L & R. My cold bore shot, 1" high, basically putting me at the 4 ring, the majority of shots hit around the 8 & 6 rings. I'll pull out Eley Match and see how it does if I can get out to the range again.


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What torque settings do you guys use for the 4 screws to mount the picatinny rail, my Britannia rail doesn't mention that?

Is there somewhere a document or site where i can lookup the torque from bolts on the rifle?
 
What torque settings do you guys use for the 4 screws to mount the picatinny rail, my Britannia rail doesn't mention that?

Is there somewhere a document or site where i can lookup the torque from bolts on the rifle?

Area 419;
Screw Torque = 15in/lb

Clean and use medium strength threadlocker if you feel the need or won't remove the rail.
 
So I'v been shooting my T1x in this MDT LR chassis with this Vortex PST Gen 2 on top over the summer and it has been great! I've been trying to find the ammo that works best and settled on SK Rifle Match. So I went to re-zero and did some thinking. I'm wondering if someone can take a look at my set up and tell me if this is right as I'm not a super expert in things like this.

To zero I have 1 full rotation plus 2.5 MILS up (12.5mils) to get a 50yrd zero with a 25MOA rail. Does this make sense? Am I doing something wrong in how I should be slipping my turrets? (Yes I know my POI has to come left - that's for the next range day)
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If you are wanting to bottom out the scope for long range shooting, you would need to add more MOA to the rail. 12.5 MIL comes to a hair over 40 MOA, but you wouldn't want to go that far as you want to leave a little room for adjustments. I use Burris XTR Signature rings that has inserts to allow up to 40 MOA of adjustment. I would likely put 30 MOA in the rings if I were attempting to bottom out the scope.

If you aren't concerned with shooting very long range, then you can just adjust the zero stop on your scope:

 
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1.1" at 100 yards is still very, very good shooting for 22LR. I'm hoping for good results with mine as I just got it sighted in at 25 yards a couple weeks ago and have yet to get it to 50 or 100. So far everything has worked properly (feeding, extracting, ejection) through 250 rounds in the factory black plastic stock. I have high hopes for this rifle as a back-up for silhouette and introducing newbies to the shooting sports. Ppl love everything about the KIDD 10/22 and vudoo I loan out, until I tell them how much I have in them.
 
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1.1" at 100 yards is still very, very good shooting for 22LR. I'm hoping for good results with mine as I just got it sighted in at 25 yards a couple weeks ago and have yet to get it to 50 or 100. So far everything has worked properly (feeding, extracting, ejection) through 250 rounds in the factory black plastic stock. I have high hopes for this rifle as a back-up for silhouette and introducing newbies to the shooting sports. Ppl love everything about the KIDD 10/22 and vudoo I loan out, until I tell them how much I have in them.

This was with Eley Tenex at 100 yards. Stock T1X can shoot.

target_image.jpg
 
Area 419;
Screw Torque = 15in/lb

Clean and use medium strength threadlocker if you feel the need or won't remove the rail.


Thanks for the info

Good thing I bought the wheeler, I was supprised how little 15 in/lb is ☺️
 
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Littlepod, were those targets at 100 yards in the factory plastic stock?
 
I’ve seen variances in this thread. So, when mounting the BA into a KRG Bravo, what torque are y’all getting the best accuracy with?

I torqued mine to 35 lbs and it shoots really well. I have seen torque numbers as high as 65 lbs but that seems like way too much on a rimfire action.
 
I torqued mine to 35 lbs and it shoots really well. I have seen torque numbers as high as 65 lbs but that seems like way too much on a rimfire action.

I went to 65 in a krg w3, no reason to go that high and like you would not recommend doing so. 25-45 inch pounds is probably a good range for this action.
 
Littlepod, were those targets at 100 yards in the factory plastic stock?

No that's in a Bravo with an Ares BTR 4.5-27 on it.

Though for the Tikka I haven't noticed that switching stocks changed the accuracy. It's just more comfortable for me instead of putting a stock pad to raise my cheek.
 
Took my new t1x out to borrego and had a blast..
Zeroed at 50 yds,,shot kyl at 100 yds and steel at 200 yds
Ran great and fun to shoot ,even ran it on tripod for a while..
Ammo was cci sv
T1x
Bravo
Tac sol comp
Ctr bolt handle
Rrs mlok plate
Athlon talos btr
Looking forward to next time,,after I clean the desert sand from gear.....
 
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When are we getting a stainless T1X? I figured they would have offered one by now. My OCD won’t let me have three stainless T3’s and one blued.
 
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I’ve seen variances in this thread. So, when mounting the BA into a KRG Bravo, what torque are y’all getting the best accuracy with?
I started at 35 and had great results so I haven't tried anything else. By the time you shoot different ammo to see what shoots good and then shoot that ammo with varying torque specs it starts to seem like a chore. 35 worked really well for me so I've moved on from testing to playing.
 
In my quest for a good factory target rifle, I just shot my new Tikka T1X. The image below shows what counts. It's a sub-MOA rifle at 50 yards. In general, I like the rifle, but I found it uncomfortable to shoot. There are a few things that could be changed to make an improvement. The LOP is waay short at 13.25 inches. Fine for young people and average women, but way too short for me. Butt spacers available from Beretta only add 1/8 inch each, so maybe offer two different stocks, one with an LOP of about 14 inches. Along with the short LOP, the comb is too low to allow a comfortable cheek weld and eye position simultaneously. An adjustable comb on the plastic stock wouldn't be a bad option. I plan to fix all these problems by ordering a KRG Bravo chassis, but I'm sure there are lots of people who aren't crazy enough to plunk down nearly $400 for that option.

The target here was shot after 10 rounds of CCI SV to zero the 7X scope. I think with a more comfortable shooting position and a higher power scope scores could be significantly improved. Each group was five rounds, and the target shows the results of the 11th through 40th rounds down the barrel.
Tikka First.JPG