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Tikka T1X

Enjoy the offhand stages. :geek:

Looks good.

Yeh I know... I'm considering putting it back into my Bravo... and then putting the T3X into the MDT :p I don't know what the ideal weight for offhand is... the massive magwell on the MDT is nice to balance on my palm so, the balance is good, it's just tiresome to hold...
 
:) I am curious what the ideal weight is for NRL22. My fiance's rifle is 9lbs, and it feels too light and wobbly during stages. 10 lbs on mine feels a whole lot better than 9 lbs. 14.5 lbs feels heavy for offhand. I am guessing maybe 11-12 lbs.
I put mine in a MDT LSSXL, I think the weight is perfect. I also have the "barricade stop" in front of the magwell, it's awesome for offhand shooting.
 
I just put tbe mountain tactical bolt knob on. Great product and great company. I highly recommend them!
IMG_20191108_171156695.jpg
 
I wouldn’t think the bag rider is much of a concern. All that extra weight up front is what will make off hand tough. At least it does for me. I want a reasonable amount of weight for stability but there is a point where that extra weight starts to work against you trying to drag the front of the rifle to the ground. It also makes the front a lot harder to stabilize when you rack the bolt.
 
I wouldn’t think the bag rider is much of a concern. All that extra weight up front is what will make off hand tough. At least it does for me. I want a reasonable amount of weight for stability but there is a point where that extra weight starts to work against you trying to drag the front of the rifle to the ground. It also makes the front a lot harder to stabilize when you rack the bolt.

Right now the balance point is right at the middle of the mag well. If I remove the bag rider, it'll be right at the front lip of the mag well. I haven't weighed the rifle yet, but I am guessing it's somewhere around 13lbs. It actually felt great today... The longer fore end, with the bipod out that far really helped on some of my positional barrel shooting. Rifle was moving a lot less... I managed to hit 1/4" off the barrels while sitting 9/10 times, where on the Bravo I was doing it about 6/10.

I then did unsupported prone with a sling, with the rifle resting on the magwell on my palm. It felt really good.

I re-headspaced the barrel by small margin. I noticed the rims were slightly crushed, so I basically loaded a round. Then just loosened the set screws so the rim would decompress a little bit, and then tightened it back up.

I shot a few rounds and noticed that the rims weren't slightly crushed anymore, but feeding didn't really feel that much easier. That Win52D throat is just so tight. I am curious what KoD thinks once he gets the Win52D barrel compared to the Eley EPS one.

Oh, and then I swapped my atlas to the RRS BTC-Pro arca clamp. The heights of the stock/fore-end are what's throwing me off, as I know exactly what bipod extension/bag squeeze to get on target @ 25 & 100 on the Bravo, but now things are all a bit off. I'll need to spend a little time getting setup tomorrow in the stages. My fiance refuses to let me sell the Bravo though, she says there's too much sentimental value in that Sako Green Bravo so she put it in the safe and said don't sell it.
 
Yesterday my first tryout with the standard Tikka.

Shot at 25m with Norma tac (except the top right nr.1 and the white dot right under that's with cci sv).
I zeroed the scope at home on a guessed point after my home. The first shot at center point i was completely blown away that it was almost spot on, beginners luck I guess ?

Than i aimed for the numbers, lots of beginner trigger faults but i'm satisfied for my first tryout.

I got a new virus I guess ?


IMG_20191107_205324.jpg


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The bolt throw on these Tikkas is pretty short, does anyone feel that this makes the rifle feel toy-like (airsoft etc)?

Absolutely. Also all semiautos firearms feel like semiauto airsoft guns.

Really, all "better" firearms around here in Europe seem to favor short bolt throw, it is in all ways better way to manipulate the bolt.

I can promise you, there is no going back from it once you try it.
 
Pretty rifle, send a picture of the whole thing. I'd love to compare the MDT XSS to the ACC setup I'm running.
Here it is. I love the XLR buttstock too. I am putting together a Tikka varmint 6.5 in a MDT ACC chassis. It's all weighted and balanced. I love it for the full size T3, I don't know if I'd like it as much on the T1x. That just me though.
IMG_20191109_092233201.jpg
 
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Here it is. I love the XLR buttstock too. I am putting together a Tikka varmint 6.5 in a MDT ACC chassis. It's all weighted and balanced. I love it for the full size T3, I don't know if I'd like it as much on the T1x. That just me though.

Nice! I bought this mainly because I will go a V22 in a few months, and I'll swap my ACC and put weights onto my CTR 308. Taking off all the possible weights at around 12.5-13lbs is not bad at all.

I do miss the polymer wrap of the Bravo in these cold winter temperatures.
 
Nice! I bought this mainly because I will go a V22 in a few months, and I'll swap my ACC and put weights onto my CTR 308. Taking off all the possible weights at around 12.5-13lbs is not bad at all.

I do miss the polymer wrap of the Bravo in these cold winter temperatures.
That's the only thing I'm worried about.....that chassis is gonna be cold for the December nrl22 match!??
 
That's the only thing I'm worried about.....that chassis is gonna be cold for the December nrl22 match!??
This is why I went with GRS rather than XLR. I usually go with bare hands far into winter and aluminum has one of the best heat transfer abilities.. Even though gloves fix it, they will have to be thicker than with wood/laminate.

Atleast KRG has insulating polymers for the W3, if I have done my research correctly.
 
Wore my Outdoor Research Firemark Nomex gloves this morning to set up for our match. Ended up shooting a bunch of rounds using them w/o realizing I was still wearing them. Didn't realize until I 'realized' and was very impressed with the dexterity and trigger feel.
 
Yesterday my first tryout with the standard Tikka.

Shot at 25m with Norma tac (except the top right nr.1 and the white dot right under that's with cci sv).
I zeroed the scope at home on a guessed point after my home. The first shot at center point i was completely blown away that it was almost spot on, beginners luck I guess ?

Than i aimed for the numbers, lots of beginner trigger faults but i'm satisfied for my first tryout.

I got a new virus I guess ?


View attachment 7180066

View attachment 7180067


We hooked another one fellas. That "first one is free" really works. :geek:
 
Shot my Nov. NRL22 match today... when I zeroed yesterday, I was getting 1.8mil at 100 yards. It was a dry sunny day. Today it was dreary and rainy, and I had to dial 2.1mil at 100 yards. Ended up only scoring 45 out of 100 pts on the paper scoring at 100 yards. Winner V22 w/ Center-X shot a 75.

The rest of the match went rather poorly... Switching to a new chassis and barrel right before the match I knew wasn't a smart idea, but i'm too impatient around shiny things.

Stage 1. Unsupported Prone, went well!
Stage 2. Weak side, 100 yards paper scoring. Shot 1inch low, tried to compensate by aiming higher, but didn't do well.
Stage 3. Prone @ 100 yards, hit 9/10, had a flyer of a last shot
Stage 4. Barricade Ladder stage, did poorly. I was getting too much left and right movement, I thought I would have more stability.
Stage 5. Cinder block and barrel. I should have used my mini fortune cookie but screwed it up and went no bag. Wasn't stable, missed way too many shots.

Pretty bad NRL22 month...
 
Shot my Nov. NRL22 match today... when I zeroed yesterday, I was getting 1.8mil at 100 yards. It was a dry sunny day. Today it was dreary and rainy, and I had to dial 2.1mil at 100 yards. Ended up only scoring 45 out of 100 pts on the paper scoring at 100 yards. Winner V22 w/ Center-X shot a 75.

The rest of the match went rather poorly... Switching to a new chassis and barrel right before the match I knew wasn't a smart idea, but i'm too impatient around shiny things.

Stage 1. Unsupported Prone, went well!
Stage 2. Weak side, 100 yards paper scoring. Shot 1inch low, tried to compensate by aiming higher, but didn't do well.
Stage 3. Prone @ 100 yards, hit 9/10, had a flyer of a last shot
Stage 4. Barricade Ladder stage, did poorly. I was getting too much left and right movement, I thought I would have more stability.
Stage 5. Cinder block and barrel. I should have used my mini fortune cookie but screwed it up and went no bag. Wasn't stable, missed way too many shots.

Pretty bad NRL22 month...

I was using the wrong calculator on my Sterlok Pro and was dialing 1 mil low at 210. When I first started doping, I was nailing everything. 50 yard KYL, 75 yard center punch, even the small hostage at 125. Then everything went to shit. Couldn't for the life of me figure it out. 2nd half of the match I was able to adjust mentally and my long game got a little better. Then late on after the match I started changing the calculator and found that the good 'ol G7 was spot on.

What was odd was we had 4 or 5 hostage targets at 125 and another hostage flapper just underneath those. Most of us had trouble with all the hostage targets regardless of size. But could usually clear the flapper hostage (5 shots flipping the flapper) right underneath. Wind wasn't really a factor today either. And the misses on the hostages were difficult to spot too.
 
Shot my Nov. NRL22 match today...


Stage 3. Unsupported prone. Sent the first three shots high because I was holding correction...but had already dialed correction. Shot clean once I realized that I was an idiot.
Stage 2. Weak side, 100 yards paper scoring. Barrel had cooled enough between stages that first two shots were completely off of the paper. With no correction group moved up to the normal POI. 52 points.
Stage 1 Prone @ 100 yards. Clean.
Stage 5. Barricade Ladder stage. Almost ran out of time. 70 points IIRC.
Stage 4. Cinder block and barrel. On the low block it's basically prone, cleaned the 0.25". On the bucket and standing block shot at the 0.5" target and was 6 of 7. Couldn't get stable enough to feel like shooting at the 0.25" would be possible. My 11 yr old can fold into a weird bent over kneeling position at that height and made me look bad by almost cleaning the 0.25" from all three positions?

I won Base class the last two months so I put the T1x in a Bravo/W3 hybrid and shot Open class this month and got another win. So I've gone three for three with the T1x and my son has won youth class two of three months with it.
20191109_122753.jpg
 
Stage 3. Unsupported prone. Sent the first three shots high because I was holding correction...but had already dialed correction. Shot clean once I realized that I was an idiot.
Stage 2. Weak side, 100 yards paper scoring. Barrel had cooled enough between stages that first two shots were completely off of the paper. With no correction group moved up to the normal POI. 52 points.
Stage 1 Prone @ 100 yards. Clean.
Stage 5. Barricade Ladder stage. Almost ran out of time. 70 points IIRC.
Stage 4. Cinder block and barrel. On the low block it's basically prone, cleaned the 0.25". On the bucket and standing block shot at the 0.5" target and was 6 of 7. Couldn't get stable enough to feel like shooting at the 0.25" would be possible. My 11 yr old can fold into a weird bent over kneeling position at that height and made me look bad by almost cleaning the 0.25" from all three positions?

I won Base class the last two months so I put the T1x in a Bravo/W3 hybrid and shot Open class this month and got another win. So I've gone three for three with the T1x and my son has won youth class two of three months with it. View attachment 7180441
Nice! Congrats!

I'm still waiting for my scores to come in. I think I finished second but was a lot further from first than last time.

The cold barrel shift is pretty drastic for you to miss the paper at 100 yards! My first two shots were also cold bore. Low .5 inch only compared to the next 8. Then I shot a tight bunch but I was dialed wrong so they were all in the 6 ring low. First two shots on the 1 :( I then aimed higher and got a few in the 8 ring.

What ammo are you running?
 
Just bought a t1x in 17hmr and ordered the 25moa rail from DIP. Up next is a krg bravo in FDE ?
 
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What was odd was we had 4 or 5 hostage targets at 125 and another hostage flapper just underneath those. Most of us had trouble with all the hostage targets regardless of size. But could usually clear the flapper hostage (5 shots flipping the flapper) right underneath. Wind wasn't really a factor today either. And the misses on the hostages were difficult to spot too.

I had trouble with this one too. But my own doing - shot the upper hostage rack then skipped the lower one. I made several mistakes in tactics, position stability, - then trouble with dope at 150 and beyond.

Not my best day at the range. But the weather was great!

Interesting -- Looking at the results; 6 of the 11 shooters were using Vudoos. Bottom four were shooting either Rugers or Tikkas.

For me, I don't blame my sorry performance on the rifle. It's all on me.

Next week will be better!
 
Now that I've shot a few more rimfires, why did Tikka do an ejector wire in the mag well, opposed to the dual extractor/ejector on the bolt like the other rimfire rifles? Just a cost savings? It seems like having this design with that ejector wire just causes unneeded friction, rubbing, when all these other guns just have their dual extractor on the bolt face that extracts and ejects rounds.
 
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Now that I've shot a few more rimfires, why did Tikka do an ejector wire in the mag well, opposed to the dual extractor/ejector on the bolt like the other rimfire rifles? Just a cost savings? It seems like having this design with that ejector wire just causes unneeded friction, rubbing, when all these other guns just have their dual extractor on the bolt face that extracts and ejects rounds.
Good question! I guess it is to simplify the bolt. Some odd features in nordic weaponry can be explained by having more reliable functionality in subzeros but I doubt built-in bolt ejectors suffer from frost issues, they are found in CF too, although they are more robust in them.

Quad has the exactly same wire. Maybe it was originally meant to be able to eject multiple calibers and they just used already used concept for the T1X. I am clueless.
 
Wore my Outdoor Research Firemark Nomex gloves this morning to set up for our match. Ended up shooting a bunch of rounds using them w/o realizing I was still wearing them. Didn't realize until I 'realized' and was very impressed with the dexterity and trigger feel.
I shot my Nov NRL22 match wearing Mechanix gloves. Worked great!
 
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Learning...prior to this group posted, was not seeing sub 1/2" at 50yds with my T1x. These groups came together after adjusting action screws from a whopping 35 in-lbs to 30. Also placed a limbsaver dampener 3/4" from barrel exit. Not sure if it helped, but certainly didn't hurt.
Finally got the trigger to cooperate after YoDave spring swap and soaking spring/pin in OneShot.
IMG_20191110_203155.jpg

Ammo CCI standard. 5 shot groups. bottom right flyer was first shot after placing the limbsaver on barrel. Sk rifle match on the way. Hoping to see them shrink up a bit more. Action is in a MDT LSS chassis.
IMG_20191106_145427_01.jpg
 
Absolutely. Also all semiautos firearms feel like semiauto airsoft guns.

Really, all "better" firearms around here in Europe seem to favor short bolt throw, it is in all ways better way to manipulate the bolt.

I can promise you, there is no going back from it once you try it.


I have been pulling the components together for the last few weeks; love the T1X so far. DIP has some of my parts on backorder, so I have been on hold for 3-weeks.
 
Now that I've shot a few more rimfires, why did Tikka do an ejector wire in the mag well, opposed to the dual extractor/ejector on the bolt like the other rimfire rifles? Just a cost savings? It seems like having this design with that ejector wire just causes unneeded friction, rubbing, when all these other guns just have their dual extractor on the bolt face that extracts and ejects rounds.
This all started with the Sako P94S action. This top photo is from my Sako M78 and it shows no extractor wire, the M78 is the predecessor to the P94S action. With the exception of the plastic buttplate the M78 is a 100% steel/wood rimfire.

0215191740.jpg


The low bolt throw also started with the M78 or maybe the P72 but I've never seen the P72 to verify.

0704192039e.jpg

0218191729.jpg



While I don't have photos on hand to show the P94S ejector wire, it does have the same design the Tikka has.

But what I can show is the similarities in bolts. The Tikka is over 1/2" longer.
0718191654.jpg


Both have the single extractor.
0718191654a.jpg


Extra locking lug on the Sako.
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For comparison here is the Sako M78 bolt compared to the Sako P94S bolt. Both have the extra locking lug and swept back handles.

0718191710.jpg


The M78 bolt is about as long as the Tikka bolt. Also notice the M78 design has the dual extractors as opposed to the single that the P94S and Tikka has. The P94S bolt has two plastic parts in it, the M78 has none.

0718191710a.jpg


I know this is a competition and long range shooting forum but sometimes I don't think it hurts to get back to some firearms history and to increase our knowledge.
 
Has anyone experienced feeding issues where the round stands straight up in the mag? It shoots light out when it decides to shoot. I can’t get through a full mag or 10rd NRL22 stage without a reload. I’m about to trash my T1x and go back to CZ or use it for clubbing baby seals. I have tried multiple mags with the same issue. Any help/pics would be greatly appreciated.
 
Has anyone experienced feeding issues where the round stands straight up in the mag? It shoots light out when it decides to shoot. I can’t get through a full mag or 10rd NRL22 stage without a reload. I’m about to trash my T1x and go back to CZ or use it for clubbing baby seals. I have tried multiple mags with the same issue. Any help/pics would be greatly appreciated.
One guy solved this problem by taking the gun out of the stock and moving the magwell towards the trigger. You can try different positions for it also.
 
I could see my way to picking either the Element or Evolution, if I could see what a T1X look like in either one of those chassis... any chance you have picks of a T1X in any of these chassis?
 
One guy solved this problem by taking the gun out of the stock and moving the magwell towards the trigger. You can try different positions for it also.
I just gave it a try. Hopefully it will work. I love the rifle when it feeds.
 
I just gave it a try. Hopefully it will work. I love the rifle when it feeds.

I really like my T1x, but like you I had consistent feeding problems every magazine. I tried moving the mag well as suggested and that was no help in my case. I changed ammunition from SK Standard Plus to CCI standard velocity and haven't had feeding problems since switching to the CCI. So it might be helpful to try different ammo types if you haven't already. Just wanted to give another data point.
 
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I really like my T1x, but like you I had consistent feeding problems every magazine. I tried moving the mag well as suggested and that was no help in my case. I changed ammunition from SK Standard Plus to CCI standard velocity and haven't had feeding problems since switching to the CCI. So it might be helpful to try different ammo types if you haven't already. Just wanted to give another data point.
I know that every rifle is different but I also shoot SK standard +. I’m not sure the CCi will give me the accuracy that I am looking for but it’s worth investigating
 
Has anyone experienced feeding issues where the round stands straight up in the mag? It shoots light out when it decides to shoot. I can’t get through a full mag or 10rd NRL22 stage without a reload. I’m about to trash my T1x and go back to CZ or use it for clubbing baby seals. I have tried multiple mags with the same issue. Any help/pics would be greatly appreciated.

What ammo?

CCI-SV for me is perfect. No issues. Center-X and any other lubed rounds do the same as yours.
 
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