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Tikka T1X

Update on the MPA (Masterpiece Arms) Competition Chassis. I tried to make notes on the images. It's definitely not a drop in fit. I'm trying to decide if I should try and get a machine shop to modify as needed or just use the chassis for a regular Tikka CTR. I'm not sure if MPA would be interested in having me send both in so they could fit it and also gather information so they could make a T1X friendly chassis. I would think they could modify it to work with both these and the CTRs.


Why not just go at it with a dremel to fit it? Those cuts you discussed shouldn't cause issue with the CTR working.

On checking Mag fitment, if you pull the magwell, do you have any issue getting the mag in high enough to touch the bolt? od does the mag well need cut also?
 
Why not just go at it with a dremel to fit it? Those cuts you discussed shouldn't cause issue with the CTR working.

On checking Mag fitment, if you pull the magwell, do you have any issue getting the mag in high enough to touch the bolt? od does the mag well need cut also?

I could probably try a dreamel. Is there a particular bit you would recommend?

I don’t think anything beyond what I show in the pictures will be needed. I’m kind of bummed about the clearance needed for the bolt release because that won’t look to good and I don’t want to have the expense of redoing the Cerakote for just a small area. It probably won’t be too noticeable.
 
Thanks for the heads up! Just called my local Scheels and they have a TX1 22 on hand and put it on hold for me, picking us up Friday after work!
 
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I could probably try a dreamel. Is there a particular bit you would recommend?

I don’t think anything beyond what I show in the pictures will be needed. I’m kind of bummed about the clearance needed for the bolt release because that won’t look to good and I don’t want to have the expense of redoing the Cerakote for just a small area. It probably won’t be too noticeable.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...eramics-Plastics-and-Hard-Wood-9901/202263215

if you cut on the backside just enough to allow the bolt release to work you won't really hurt the part you look at.
 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...eramics-Plastics-and-Hard-Wood-9901/202263215

if you cut on the backside just enough to allow the bolt release to work you won't really hurt the part you look at.

Thanks, yes I think the bolt release portion would be pretty easy to do myself. The internal cut would probably be pretty difficult to keep clean doing freehand as a fair amount of material needs to be removed. I'm going to try and take it by a machine shop and see what they would charge for me to do it.
 
I looked at things again today regarding the chassis. Although I am working specifically with the MPA Chassis these will be things for anyone considering using a chassis to take into consideration, especially the magazine well and magazine clearance. It appears that it will just work in this chassis if the AICS magazine release is retained in it's forward position (or removed). The last picture shows what the gun will look like fully mounted. I forgot to put the bolt back in so it's missing in the picture. The magazine well had to be removed to mount it for the photo.

pic13-t1a-mpa.jpgpic14-t1a-mpa.jpgpic15-t1a-mpa.jpgpic16-t1a-mpa.jpgpic17-t1a-mpa.jpgpic18-t1a-mpa.jpg
 
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I looked at things again today regarding the chassis. Although I am working specifically with the MPA Chassis these will be things for anyone considering using a chassis to take into consideration, especially the magazine well and magazine clearance. It appears that it will just work in this chassis if the AICS magazine release is retained in it's forward position (or removed). The last picture shows what the gun will look like fully mounted. I forgot to put the bolt back in so it's missing in the picture. The magazine well had to be removed to mount it for the photo.

View attachment 6971451View attachment 6971452View attachment 6971453View attachment 6971454View attachment 6971455View attachment 6971456

Nice work:cool:.
How does she shoots?
Did you try it with the factory stock before MPA?
 
Nice work:cool:.
How does she shoots?
Did you try it with the factory stock before MPA?

I posted some groups a little further up in this thread. And just to clarify this isn’t set up in the MPA chassis yet as some modifications are needed. Another forum member graciously offered to help me out with this project so I am shipping the chassis to them to work on.
 
Are the stores in the USA carrying the T1X in .22 Lr? Scheels has been mentioned above. I may have to call our Scheels here in Montana. I wonder what distance the groups reported were at?
 
Oops....I looked back to Wednesday’s post and saw 50 yards as the distance fired with Lapua ammo. You might try CCI Standard .22lr in it. I’m getting 3/8th” at 50 yds and 7/8” at 109 yds in mr CZ 455 FS, for 10 shot groups, with a 16 pwr cheapy scope. At $2.99 a box, hard to beat.
 
Keep us posted on the chassis mods. I'm contemplating putting mine in the new Oryx chassis. If it is too much specialty work, then I'll try and find a CTR stock that someone has removed.
 
I posted some groups a little further up in this thread. And just to clarify this isn’t set up in the MPA chassis yet as some modifications are needed. Another forum member graciously offered to help me out with this project so I am shipping the chassis to them to work on.

After having a look at the bolt stop, does it seem possible to remove material from the stop itself to avoid removing the finish from your chassis?
Obviously it would weaken the stop to a degree and it could also be hollow like the cf tikkas. A cf tikka bolt stop pin is normally only held in by bolt stop spring pressure when the action is out of the stock and can be pulled out pretty easily.
These are horrible photos of a cf bolt stop, hopefully the t1X is similar and this helps.
IMG_0166.JPG
IMG_0165.JPG
 
I'd try to modifiy the bolt stop as such.
I imagine it is mim or such and will probably need to be ground if you dont have machine access.
IMG_0167.JPG
 
Are the stores in the USA carrying the T1X in .22 Lr? Scheels has been mentioned above. I may have to call our Scheels here in Montana. I wonder what distance the groups reported were at?

I asked Whittaker Guns this week and they said they've seen a few come in but don't have a definite estimate on when they'll be getting them regularly. No telling what preorder numbers they'll have to fill before they have them for sale on the site.
 
FF05BBFA-D15F-4849-98BF-AFD2669990F3.jpeg

DNZ 2-pc mounts low, FDE pistol grip, Limbsaver pad , Vortex Razor HD LH 3-15x42, TBAC L-1. Adjusted the stock trigger low as it would go. No need for a lighter spring. Hope it likes Hornady 17gr as I have a case. First range session today.
 
View attachment 6972489

DNZ 2-pc mounts low, FDE pistol grip, Limbsaver pad , Vortex Razor HD LH 3-15x42, TBAC L-1. Adjusted the stock trigger low as it would go. No need for a lighter spring. Hope it likes Hornady 17gr as I have a case. First range session today.
If you could possibly provide a link to the bases and rings you used to get the scope that low it would be much appreciated, thanks.
 
Look what showed up today. My T1X in .22lr that I ordered from a Scheels in Illinois. I was happy to find out they ship firearms to out of state FFLs.
 

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If anyone is looking for a one piece mount, mile high has 34 mm AI mounts on sale. I just got a 28 moa ringmount for 125 shipped.
 
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Someone had asked me to post some target on paper vs. the splatterburst targets I posted earlier. I got in some range time with the T1X 22lr again yesterday. Before heading to the range I checked the trigger pull as it shipped from the factory. Using my non-digital trigger pull gauge I measured around 4lbs as it comes from the factory. I adjusted it to a little under 2lbs. This is strictly a range gun for me so hunter might want to keep the pull weight higher than this.

These groups are at 50 yards. I am sure the gun is more capable than I am. The Eley Match Ammo seemed to perform really well. The bottom left group is a 10 shot group, the others are 5 shot groups. There are also some groups with Lapua CenterX which seems to perform well also.

I'm looking forward to getting this in a heavier chassis. The gun is so light that it's hard to keep steady. I'm sure hunters will appreciate the light weight. I was shooting on a bench with an Atlas PRS Bipod and a rear bag. I'm using a Midas Tac 4-16.
 

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For my 100th post I thought I would post a 100 yard group. :)
 

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I got my KRG bravo for a tikka in the mail today, it can be made to fit the T1x buy it is not going to be a simple mill a clearance cut, you have to completely cut away where the triggerguard
Mounts to the chassis in front and go into the triggergaurd a ways, the trighergaurd will need some spacers made and drilled and tapped for flat head screws through the side of the chassis ....when I am done the stock will still be usable by a centerfire tikka
 
If you can take some before and after pictures that would be great. I look forward to hearing more about this project. Any other parts of the chassis that will need to be modified?
 
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@Magnetic

Dont be surprised if you have to mill a relief cut for the socket head cap screw that attached magazine housing to action and you may have to remove mag catch latch.
 
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For the mag catch latch have you looked at putting some kind of plastic spacer in to hold it in the "released" position? It looked like this might work for some chassis. See my first image in post #360 above. Not sure if this will work but might be worth a try.
 
@Magnetic

Dont be surprised if you have to mill a relief cut for the socket head cap screw that attached magazine housing to action and you may have to remove mag catch latch.

You are spot on. It looks to be more trouble than I'm willing to put into it for a test.

I have purchased a GRS Berzerk for it to address my main two concerns: Not enough weight in the rear, and a cheek rest that is too low.
 
T1X in AI chassis. Didn't have to modify the chassis anymore than what I had to do for the T3 to fit. Magazine works without a problem in the AI mag well.
(Sorry for the bad lighting, got it to late for an outdoor photoshoot.)

DSC_0184.JPG
 
That is sexy. I want one like that with a 16” barrel.

Any reason you didn’t go with the bifrost stock? I think it might be cheaper too.

Either way I am jealous as hell. Nice stick hope it shoots as good as it looks.


Thanks! I'm about to go mount the scope now. The Bifrost is about $80 more. But I got this one from the PX unused and saved about $125. If I was buying a new one, I would have gotten the tan Bifrost.
 
For those that have shot the t1x is it much different in accuracy than the 455? Just got a 455 and LGS has a t1x I could swap out for.
 
For those that have shot the t1x is it much different in accuracy than the 455? Just got a 455 and LGS has a t1x I could swap out for.
Some 455s have great accuracy, the 2 I had did not, even after bedding and pillars. The Tikka shots fantastic right out of the box and shoots better than my 452 which surprised me. The Tikka shoots almost as good as my KIDD and Volquartsen at less than half the cost. I probably won't by another CZ anytime soon. Just my 2 cents.
 
T1X in AI chassis. Didn't have to modify the chassis anymore than what I had to do for the T3 to fit. Magazine works without a problem in the AI mag well.
(Sorry for the bad lighting, got it to late for an outdoor photoshoot.)

View attachment 6978014

Is that a real deal AICS or an airsoft? And where did you get the ammo holder from? I'm diggin it, might have a winter project
 
I ran tests on different rounds (see attached) through the T1X (received it last week). temp 54, light rain, wind 0-4 @ 1-2 o'clock. Rifle has 200 rounds through it after the test. All 10 shot @ 50yd, w/bipod and rear bag. trigger set to 2#.
thought I would share..
 

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