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Tikka T1X

So I called Beretta this morning. I was told the updated magazine assembly is not a thing, that they have not changed the design at all, and it's likely an issue with my bolt and I would have to send in the whole gun. With the gun being new, I'm going to run some more rounds through it and see if it improves any. If not, I guess back it goes.
Me too. Called August 16. Guy didn't want to discuss parts at all. Only send the gun back. 6-8 week turn around. Remove scope. I'm not sure it bothers me that much. Mine doesn't leave all the empties in the action, but still quite a few. Overall I love the rifle. Shoot a box of ammo almost every evening.
 
Don't hate the player, hate the game... Throwing a Crye Pod on there would really skew those numbers...
Hello Mr. Nemo,

I like you thought the Venom would be a perfect pairing on the Tikka for base class. Unfortunately, you are mistaken on the MSRP for the T1X. I called beretta just last week and they told me the MSRP is $579.99 and the MAP is $529.99 which bumps us out of base class. I do love my Vemom, it’s a shame I can’t use it.
 
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Hello Mr. Nemo,

I like you thought the Venom would be a perfect pairing on the Tikka for base class. Unfortunately, you are mistaken on the MSRP for the T1X. I called beretta just last week and they told me the MSRP is $579.99 and the MAP is $529.99 which bumps us out of base class by $29.99. I do love my Vemom, it’s a shame I can’t use it.
The Google result for tikka t1x MSRP that shows up for $498 is outdated information, that’s where I made the mistake as well
 
Hello Mr. Nemo,

I like you thought the Venom would be a perfect pairing on the Tikka for base class. Unfortunately, you are mistaken on the MSRP for the T1X. I called beretta just last week and they told me the MSRP is $579.99 and the MAP is $529.99 which bumps us out of base class by $29.99. I do love my Vemom, it’s a shame I can’t use it.
And I was ready to buy a Bushnell Match Pro before I dropped the dough on this scope...
Oh well, pull the barreled action and drop it into my ACC for the time being I guess.
Worst case, I still have the Argos...
 
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Further question 16” or 20” barrel????
I'd say it depends. 20" looks better naked. I had one, but looks odd with 6" of suppressor. 16" looks odd naked, but is right on with 6" of suppressor. I have one. For .22LR I don't think the longer barrel gains you much ballistically. IMHO
 
I only did the 20" to match my T3X CTR. And I actually like aesthetics of the 20" with the can, but we're all different. Long centerfires (26"-28") with a can look way worse to me. Hell by the time you get to the end of the can, you're halfway to the target. :D

I gave up on the base class thing as after talking to many people, you're just handicapping yourself on glass. Parts inbound.
 
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16” for sure 😎
 

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Hey, I'm not going to say anything if you don't say anything...
I'm in the same boat...I did mount the Match Pro on mine...Venom is much better IMO. I also tried a Diamondback Tactical which leaves a lot to be desired, returned it immediately. It really is a shame the Venom will not work I really enjoy that scope.
 
That's one of your chassis ?
Sure is! That one is the first prototype that I had outsourced. I decided to buy my own CNC mill and will be doing all manufacturing in house now. Needs a few minor tweaks but I'm hoping to roll it out by the end of October. Chassis base (no stock or grip) and handguard (10.5" is shown here, 15" will also be an option) weights 18.5 oz. The 15" handguard adds 1.5 oz I believe, but it was too long to be used with a 16" T1x barrel.
 
I shot the rifle last night after work, and I need to add a little height to the cheek riser, But the Venom scope is very nice for a sub $ 500.00 piece of glass. Turrets worked well, good tactile feel, very repeatable. I lasered the bore sight when I installed the scope, it it was pretty close when I put it on paper at about 30 yards. One hole 10 round groups off of the bipod and rear bag were the norm w/ CCI SV ammo at 30 yards.
I need to chrono the ammo and do some more shooting with it, but it's looking like a great combination.
 
Made another range trip yesterday evening.
Zeroed the scope for 50 yards, Chrono'ed both CCI SV and SK Rifle Match with the Lab Radar and did some shooting.
The CCI SV Ammo @ $0.15 averaged 1080 fps with an ES of 70 fps and SD of 16.6 fps for 38 rounds recorded.
The SK Rifle Match @ $0.27 Per Round averaged 1062 fps with an ES of 42 fps and SD of 11.6 fps for 14 rounds recorded.

CCI SV @ 50 yards approx. 50 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
IMG_4157.JPG



SK Rifle Match @ 50 yards 15 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
IMG_4158.JPG


150 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 4.6mils dialed up
IMG_4159.JPG


205 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 7.2 mils dialed up
IMG_4160.JPG
 
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Made another range trip yesterday evening.
Zeroed the scope for 50 yards, Chrono'ed both CCI SV and SK Rifle Match with the Lab Radar and did some shooting.
The CCI SV Ammo @ $0.15 averaged 1080 fps with an ES of 70 fps and SD of 16.6 fps for 38 rounds recorded.
The SK Rifle Match @ $0.27 Per Round averaged 1062 fps with an ES of 42 fps and SD of 11.6 fps for 14 rounds recorded.

CCI SV @ 50 yards approx. 50 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
View attachment 7689244


SK Rifle Match @ 50 yards 15 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
View attachment 7689245

150 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 4.6mils dialed up
View attachment 7689246

205 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 7.2 mils dialed up
View attachment 7689247
Do you do any barrel cleaning in between different ammo?
 
Anyone used threaded inserts or rivet nuts with a soldering iron to retain the Victor company cheekrest with machine screws on the factory T1x stock?

I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
 
Anyone used threaded inserts or rivet nuts with a soldering iron to retain the Victor company cheekrest with machine screws on the factory T1x stock?

I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
You could also remove the butt pad and epoxy the inserts in from the inside.
 
Anyone care to share their average T1X groups at 50,100,200? Either Inches or MOA with either factory barrels or modified guns? Shot a little over 300 rounds tonight at those distances.

SK Standard plus still shooting best, even better than Eley Tenex. My 3, 10 round groups at 100 yards averaged out at 1.2”. My 2 10 round groups at 200 were at a 4” circle and I hit both 8/10 times with some nice center shots. Still not crazy about my trigger weight, might find a timney to put in.

I would also like to ask if anyone has trouble feeding Tenex? I loaded two magazines today and I had two light strikes and 2 bullets midway through the magazine fail to feed because they went nose up in the magazine. Doesn’t happen with SK or CCI?

Right after I shot my 100 yard groups, had a nice group of jakes and toms walk right past the target. Weren’t bothered a bit, despite trap league next door and the guy next to me shooting a 1938 Kar98 (which he was kind enough to let me shoot). View attachment 7664577 View attachment 7664576

During the first outing with my T1x 16" and a Harrell's AR Tactical Tuner brake, all 5 shot groups after initial tuning:
50 yards 0.666 MOA
100 yards 1.093 MOA (0.814" vertical, wasn't trying to adjust for wind each shot)
200 yards 1.308 MOA (1.33" wide, 2.444" vertical, 1 shot clearly fell out of the bottom)

All shot with SK Standard Plus.
1067 fps AVG
58 ES
11.9 SD
1087 fps Hi 1029 fps Low
100 shots in the series gathered.
 
Anyone used threaded inserts or rivet nuts with a soldering iron to retain the Victor company cheekrest with machine screws on the factory T1x stock?

I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
I went with the Kalix Teknik cheekrest instead. You need to drill a few holes in the stock but it seems to be ok.
 
I went with the Kalix Teknik cheekrest instead. You need to drill a few holes in the stock but it seems to be ok.
Saw that one and it looks cool, but for that price will just go for a KRG Bravo and get the LOP adjustment as well.
 
Anyone care to share their average T1X groups at 50,100,200? Either Inches or MOA with either factory barrels or modified guns? Shot a little over 300 rounds tonight at those distances.

SK Standard plus still shooting best, even better than Eley Tenex. My 3, 10 round groups at 100 yards averaged out at 1.2”. My 2 10 round groups at 200 were at a 4” circle and I hit both 8/10 times with some nice center shots. Still not crazy about my trigger weight, might find a timney to put in.

I would also like to ask if anyone has trouble feeding Tenex? I loaded two magazines today and I had two light strikes and 2 bullets midway through the magazine fail to feed because they went nose up in the magazine. Doesn’t happen with SK or CCI?


Anyone care to share their average T1X groups at 50,100,200? Either Inches or MOA with either factory barrels or modified guns? Shot a little over 300 rounds tonight at those distances.

SK Standard plus still shooting best, even better than Eley Tenex. My 3, 10 round groups at 100 yards averaged out at 1.2”. My 2 10 round groups at 200 were at a 4” circle and I hit both 8/10 times with some nice center shots. Still not crazy about my trigger weight, might find a timney to put in.

I would also like to ask if anyone has trouble feeding Tenex? I loaded two magazines today and I had two light strikes and 2 bullets midway through the magazine fail to feed because they went nose up in the magazine. Doesn’t happen with SK or CCI?

Stock T1X - 20" barrel:

50m - 55 yds - 5 shot group average over dozens of groups - 0.363"
100m - 110 yds - 5 X 10 shot average 0.983" with decent ammo, CCI or Eley Team. My best Tenex will cut about 0.2" off that.
200m - 220 yds - 3"X 3" - 10 shot group on a good day if I read the wind right - SK Long Range.

I had trouble feeding Tenex also. I ordered 2 new magazines and tried those. One of them feeds Tenex perfectly - no rounds nose up. I also did the extractor spring modification - that helped a bit but it was the new magazine that cured it.
 
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Makes me super pleased with my 200 yard results. SK Long Range is one I want to find and try.
 
Stock T1X - 20" barrel:

50m - 55 yds - 5 shot group average over dozens of groups - 0.363"
100m - 110 yds - 5 X 10 shot average 0.983" with decent ammo, CCI or Eley Team. My best Tenex will cut about 0.2" off that.
200m - 220 yds - 3"X 3" on a good day if I read the wind right - SK Long Range.

I had trouble feeding Tenex also. I ordered 2 new magazines and tried those. One of them feeds Tenex perfectly - no rounds nose up. I also did the extractor spring modification - that helped a bit but it was the new magazine that cured it.
Can you enlighten me on the extractor spring mod? My 16” T1X only fails to feed with Tenex, runs SK clean with all four mags. My 20” tikka Fails to Feed between rounds 5-7 on every single magazine, the same magazines that feed flawlessly on my 16” gun.
 
Can you enlighten me on the extractor spring mod? My 16” T1X only fails to feed with Tenex, runs SK clean with all four mags. My 20” tikka Fails to Feed between rounds 5-7 on every single magazine, the same magazines that feed flawlessly on my 16” gun.
If you search for Kissofdeath's video it explains it better than I could. Basically you have to bend the back part of the spring out at an angle so that the bolt pushes the spring out of the way as the round feeds. The round will then feed straight into the chamber if you do it properly. You also then need to take the front of the spring out of its notch and bend the entire spring out to increase the spring pressure or you will have weak ejection.
Also the magazine well screw needs to be loosened and then the well pushed back to its most rearward postion and retightened. Also, there is some side to side slop of the magazine well into the action. I put 2 layers of tape on each side to make it fit snug. Not real tight just snug. Enough to take out the movement.
 
If you search for Kissofdeath's video it explains it better than I could. Basically you have to bend the back part of the spring out at an angle so that the bolt pushes the spring out of the way as the round feeds. The round will then feed straight into the chamber if you do it properly. You also then need to take the front of the spring out of its notch and bend the entire spring out to increase the spring pressure or you will have weak ejection.
Also the magazine well screw needs to be loosened and then the well pushed back to its most rearward postion and retightened. Also, there is some side to side slope of the magazine will into the action. I put 2 layers of tape on each side to make it fit snug. Not real tight just snug. Enough to take out the movement.
I will look for that video. Thank you.
 
Think this may be what you are looking for @Droptinetrader

ETA:
Durrrr he did it here first:
 
Think this may be what you are looking for @Droptinetrader

ETA:
Durrrr he did it here first:
Yes, that's it. I added a few tweaks of my own. I can't help but tinker.
 
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Anyone used threaded inserts or rivet nuts with a soldering iron to retain the Victor company cheekrest with machine screws on the factory T1x stock?

I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
I went ahead and used rivet nuts and a soldering iron to seat and melt them in a bit after drilling a slightly undersized hole.
Will see how they hold up with no glue for now. #8-32 x 1 1/2" long machine screws were the proper fit for the Victor's holes.

As thin as the plastic is I don't think the typical threaded insert has enough to grab onto.
 
I put the extended mag release on my Tikka - which works great. Now I have another issue. Even just bumping into a bag rest makes the mag fall out. Is there a good stand alone barricade stop that can be mounted directly to the stock or perhaps on a short section of Picatinny rail. I don't want to go to the full ARCA rail and I want something that I can take off when I shoot offhand. I just can't seem to find what I am looking for.
 
I put the extended mag release on my Tikka - which works great. Now I have another issue. Even just bumping into a bag rest makes the mag fall out. Is there a good stand alone barricade stop that can be mounted directly to the stock or perhaps on a short section of Picatinny rail. I don't want to go to the full ARCA rail and I want something that I can take off when I shoot offhand. I just can't seem to find what I am looking for.
You could do the Area 419 4" rail with their ARCA clamp with built in stop. That way you could remove it quickly when not in use.
 
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I'm getting extremely weak ejection unless I really man-handle the bolt, even after re-bending the wire according to the post here at the Hide. Is that just normal with this gun? Also, had some fun with CCI Quiets suppressed on Saturday, 6.5mils to get to 100yds. :ROFLMAO:


I also had weak ejection on mine when I first bought it. Somewhere between 500 and 1000 rounds it sorted its self out and I would only get weak ejection on the last round of the magazine which was much less of a big deal to me. After about 5000 rounds it went away completely.
 
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You could do the Area 419 4" rail with their ARCA clamp with built in stop. That way you could remove it quickly when not in use.
That would be an excellent solution if I was willing to spend that amount of money. I am looking for something that is about 25% of that cost.
 
That would be an excellent solution if I was willing to spend that amount of money. I am looking for something that is about 25% of that cost.
Bolt on a cheap plastic pic rail, and a cheap plastic pic rail barricade stop.
 
That would be an excellent solution if I was willing to spend that amount of money. I am looking for something that is about 25% of that cost.

Probably as inexpensive as is out there. Inexpensive camera Arca rail sections and clamps from Amazon to mount it.
You'll also find pic rail clamps listed as "NATO rail" gear from SmallRig and others.
 
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I'm getting extremely weak ejection unless I really man-handle the bolt, even after re-bending the wire according to the post here at the Hide. Is that just normal with this gun? Also, had some fun with CCI Quiets suppressed on Saturday, 6.5mils to get to 100yds. :ROFLMAO:


No, it is not normal to have weak ejection. Mine has not had one fail to eject in about 6 - 8,000 rounds.

If you put the bend in the ejector wire to assist the feeding you also have to bend the entire wire from where it is attached to the screw in the opposite direction to increase the spring pressure. The front of the spring goes into a slot and is kept there by a bit of extension on the spring. I didn't remove my spring screw to put the bend in the spring. I just used a flat screwdriver blade with what I measured would be the appropriate length of the bend. Once I had the bend established then I worked tthe front of the spring out and bent the entire spring outwards from its attachment point. Then I worked it back into the slot. It throws the cases at least 2 feet clear of the action even if I work it slow.
 
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No, it is not normal to have weak ejection. Mine has not had one fail to eject in about 6 - 8,000 rounds.

If you put the bend in the ejector wire to assist the feeding you also have to bend the entire wire from where it is attached to the screw in the opposite direction to increase the spring pressure. The front of the spring goes into a slot and is kept there by a bit of extension on the spring. I didn't remove my spring screw to put the bend in the spring. I just used a flat screwdriver blade with what I measured would be the appropriate length of the bend. Once I had the bend established then I worked tthe front of the spring out and bent the entire spring outwards from its attachment point. Then I worked it back into the slot. It throws the cases at least 2 feet clear of the action even if I work it slow.
Yeah, I did both bends. Maybe just needs more break in possibly. Care to take a pic of yours, or get some measurements of how far off it sits off the magwell at various points? I'd really prefer to fix it myself if possible, I don't have good luck shipping firearms.
 
Yeah, I did both bends. Maybe just needs more break in possibly. Care to take a pic of yours, or get some measurements of how far off it sits off the magwell at various points? I'd really prefer to fix it myself if possible, I don't have good luck shipping firearms.
I will try and do both when I get back to my house this weekend.
Just a question? Is the spring lined up perfectly horizontal to the slot. Sometimes it likes to bind in the slot if it is not.
Its a finnicky little beast. No wonder people call it the paper clip.
 
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I will try and do both when I get back to my house this weekend.
Just a question? Is the spring lined up perfectly horizontal to the slot. Sometimes it likes to bind in the slot if it is not.
Its a finnicky little beast. No wonder people call it the paper clip.
Yeah, took a few tries to get it lined up, but I'm pretty confident it is. Something else I've read is to make sure you push the magwell assembly rearward before tightening the bolt. I'll check both this weekend when I transfer to the new chassis. Thank you!
 
The ejection on mine is getting worse with age. 10,000 rounds roughly. But feeding is excellent. It makes me hesitant to bend the ejector wire, because I don't want to mess up the feeding side of the coin.
 
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Be careful when reworking the spring. Mine ended up breaking just by taking it apart. I had to use a loose spring to make a new one. Since then, i have had no problems with ejection. The cases are ejected much further. This is really the weak point of the T1x.

spring.jpg
 
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Hello all, I recently got a new lot of SK Long range match. My 20” tikka will shoot groups like the one pictured below at 50 yards, but averages about a 1.5” group at 100 yards…I was at the range yesterday and at 185 yards on a 4” gong I was only able to get 1 hit out of 10 shots with splash both low and high. Could it just be the lot and my rifle don’t like each other? It just doesn’t seem right that I can shoot so good at 50 but at 100 and over it goes to s***. I’ve tried action screw torque from 25-40 and ran patches with boretech rimfire through until clean. Same result. Keep in mind this rifle is well under 1k rounds probably 5-600.
 

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Hello all, I recently got a new lot of SK Long range match. My 20” tikka will shoot groups like the one pictured below at 50 yards, but averages about a 1.5” group at 100 yards…I was at the range yesterday and at 185 yards on a 4” gong I was only able to get 1 hit out of 10 shots with splash both low and high. Could it just be the lot and my rifle don’t like each other? It just doesn’t seem right that I can shoot so good at 50 but at 100 and over it goes to s***. I’ve tried action screw torque from 25-40 and ran patches with boretech rimfire through until clean. Same result. Keep in mind this rifle is well under 1k rounds probably 5-600.
I've seen this with centerfire guns. Ammo will shoot rally decent groups at 100yds, then go to shit at 200 and beyond. I'd bet money if you ran some of those over a chrono, the ES and SD is very high.
 
I've seen this with centerfire guns. Ammo will shoot rally decent groups at 100yds, then go to shit at 200 and beyond. I'd bet money if you ran some of those over a chrono, the ES and SD is very high.
That would suck big time. I suppose I’ll have to get access to a good chronograph and try it out. I have 250 rounds of Standard +, Tenex, Norma Tac-22 and CCI Standard in my bag. Will probably just re-zero with what little Standard + I have for the match tomorrow and hope there’s a 200ish yard zero target so I can get my dope.
 
That would suck big time. I suppose I’ll have to get access to a good chronograph and try it out. I have 250 rounds of Standard +, Tenex, Norma Tac-22 and CCI Standard in my bag. Will probably just re-zero with what little Standard + I have for the match tomorrow and hope there’s a 200ish yard zero target so I can get my dope.
I really hope that isn't the case for you, but off the top of my head I can't think of anything else that would cause it. I've read on here of guys buying entire cases of the really high dollar stuff and it was all over the place. It's still rimfire at the end of the day, no matter what it costs, sadly.
 
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I really hope that isn't the case for you, but off the top of my head I can't think of anything else that would cause it. I've read on here of guys buying entire cases of the really high dollar stuff and it was all over the place. It's still rimfire at the end of the day, no matter what it costs, sadly.
I appreciate the info. Unfortunately I did buy an entire case as there was no option to buy a smaller quantity. I’ll report back after I do some shooting tomorrow.