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Tikka T1X

skinnj1 said:
The T1x in a modified KRG bravo, had to do a little more modifications than hoped but it is aliveView attachment 6978969
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Looks great, I'm picking my T1x up soon and have a tan bravo ready to go. Mind mentioning the mods required? I know the bolt stop might be one, would be interested to see or hear how the mag area went too.
I've modified an AI AX chassis from rem700 to tikka and a Sako trg stock to tikka (before bravos were around).
 
ddean said:
I ran tests on different rounds (see attached) through the T1X (received it last week). temp 54, light rain, wind 0-4 @ 1-2 o'clock. Rifle has 200 rounds through it after the test. All 10 shot @ 50yd, w/bipod and rear bag. trigger set to 2#.
thought I would share..
Click to expand...

That Lapua Midas group :oops:(y) Nice shooting!
 
thanks, I could not believe the difference from the others, so ran a 5 shot follow-up, and added RWS match that missed the first firing.
 

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cannoncrossfire said:
Looks great, I'm picking my T1x up soon and have a tan bravo ready to go. Mind mentioning the mods required? I know the bolt stop might be one, would be interested to see or hear how the mag area went too.
I've modified an AI AX chassis from rem700 to tikka and a Sako trg stock to tikka (before bravos were around).
Click to expand...
@cannoncrossfire

The chassis backbone is attached to the triggergaurd by a button head screw in front and the action screw in back.

Unfortunately the T1x mag housing bolts to the action with a rather large metric shcs. (See my post a few pages back for pictures) You will have to reengineer the front triggergaurd attachment as you have to mill through hole for the button head to provide clearance for the shcs. I trimmed the head of the shcs on a lathe to minimize the amount of material removed but still cut all the way through the centersection of backbone and down into the triggergaurd.To allow the mag to seat the front of the triggergaurd will have to be milled to allow for the basepad as the mag seats.

@Massoud did a really good job of skeletonizing the triggergaurd so plan your front attachment well, there isn't a lot of extra "meat" a traditional solid xlr/mdt/mcree would be a lot easier to modify probably
 
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ddean said:
I ran tests on different rounds (see attached) through the T1X (received it last week). temp 54, light rain, wind 0-4 @ 1-2 o'clock. Rifle has 200 rounds through it after the test. All 10 shot @ 50yd, w/bipod and rear bag. trigger set to 2#.
thought I would share..
Click to expand...

ddean, welcome to SH. Your targets are impressive first and second posts. Any mods to the Tikka other than the trigger adjustment? From the ammo you had on hand I'm guessing this isn't your first rodeo. Can you compare the Tikka to other rifles you are familiar with?
 
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Quarter Horse said:
ddean, welcome to SH. Your targets are impressive first and second posts. Any mods to the Tikka other than the trigger adjustment? From the ammo you had on hand I'm guessing this isn't your first rodeo. Can you compare the Tikka to other rifles you are familiar with?
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Thanks, and thank you for your kind words. Actually, this is my first 22LR, since I was a kid. The T1X is out of the box. Champions Choice is local for me (middle Tennessee), they have all the ammo brands. I became a Tikka fan about a year ago when I bought the T3X TAC A1 in 6.5CM. It shot 1/2 MOA or better for over 2000 rounds ( I shoot a lot, and precision hand load). I am now at 2600, and it is shooting 1/2+. Lands are getting too far away, so in the process or rebarreling (going to try 6CM in a Broughton barrel 1:8). I bought a second 6.5CM Tikka so I could keep shooting. it is not as good as the first, but still a 1/2MOA +/- rifle..
I am looking forward to being part of this forum. there is a lot that can be shared and learned here.
 
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Swapping out the trigger spring with one from a mechanical pencil got my trigger down to 1 lb. 5 oz. and the break is still sharp and crisp.
 
skinnj1 said:
I got my KRG bravo for a tikka in the mail today, it can be made to fit the T1x buy it is not going to be a simple mill a clearance cut, you have to completely cut away where the triggerguard
Mounts to the chassis in front and go into the triggergaurd a ways, the trighergaurd will need some spacers made and drilled and tapped for flat head screws through the side of the chassis ....when I am done the stock will still be usable by a centerfire tikka
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I emailed KRG about the "modifications" required to make the T1X fit and a received the following:

"Yes, we are looking into it, but I don’t have an ETA for when we might have something available."

Hoping they make some mods to the Bravo before my Tikka arrives.
 
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Magnetic said:
Swapping out the trigger spring with one from a mechanical pencil got my trigger down to 1 lb. 5 oz. and the break is still sharp and crisp.
Click to expand...
Getting creative over there with the pencil spring
 
@Pepper

As far as I know, I am the 1st to fit a T1x to a KRG. Several people in this thread have said it can't be done but look at the pictures of my rifle 1 page back. It is possible you just need to be willing to make it work. I wish it was a plug and play option , and knowing how big of a Tikka supporter KRG is , I am sure it will be someday but I doubt it in the short term.
 
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skinnj1 said:
@Pepper

As far as I know, I am the 1st to fit a T1x to a KRG. Several people in this thread have said it can't be done but look at the pictures of my rifle 1 page back. It is possible you just need to be willing to make it work. I wish it was a plug and play option , and knowing how big of a Tikka supporter KRG is , I am sure it will be someday but I doubt it in the short term.
Click to expand...
skinnj1 said:
@Pepper

I agree that it probably will not be short term. Serious machining is beyond my abilities, so I'll wait. Been waiting nearly a year for the rifle.
Click to expand...
 
@Prebanpaul

From memory, slightly under 1" max dial for shoulder. I had every intention of spinning up a new longer / heavier barrel as I have 4 or 5 rimfire blanks on hand. After shooting it the first time the other day, I am tempted to just put a pistol can on it and see how it shoots/balances with a heavier than rimfire can on the end as the factory barrel is extremely promising.
 
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adamjma said:
Hey @viking78 since you seem to be close to the mothership, any indications of a lefty T1X on the horizon? It would be a licence to print money I think for the lefty market.....
Click to expand...

Hi.
I bet that not in a short period.
There might be left hand version in the future, but how long that is, i have not heard any news.
They do strugle to get these first guns in the market, so let´s see how it goes.
 
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viking78 said:
Hi.
I bet that not in a short period.
There might be left hand version in the future, but how long that is, i have not heard any news.
They do strugle to get these first guns in the market, so let´s see how it goes.
Click to expand...

@viking78 Thanks!
 
Just got a call from Mr. Erik at Whittaker Guns. The first 15 20” 22lr’s are heading out the door. I was shocked to see that I was in that group. Hoping to have it by late this week or early next week.
 
Jay Ell Gee said:
Just got a call from Mr. Erik at Whittaker Guns. The first 15 20” 22lr’s are heading out the door. I was shocked to see that I was in that group. Hoping to have it by late this week or early next week.
Click to expand...

That is awesome. Patience for firearms is a virtue that I never had.
 
Hopefully going to have mine soon, does anyone know what rail can I use or am I stuck using dovetail rings?
 
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I used a 28 MOA AI dovetail scope mount from Mile High. I was going to use a rail, but mounting directly to the dovetail takes out a layer of error.
 
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ccasanova said:
Any Tikka 2-piece rings should work. I’m using DNZ 2-pc, but Talleys, etc...are all fine if you want rings and not rail + rings.
Click to expand...

I had initially used a pair of Talley rings, but I decided that I wanted to try and push the distance beyond what my scope could dial. For reference, the Talley 30mm low rings will work with a 50mm and smaller objectives such as a PST Gen2 and get the scope down to just under 1/8" of clearance to the barrel if you like them as low as possible.
 
First range session with the T1x.
Groups were shot at 86m/94y at 0 degrees C / 32F, using CCI SV.
The smallest groups meassured 15 mm / 0.6" but most had that one flyer that pushed'em to just about 1 MOA.
Can't wait to see what it'll do with some Center-x or SK rifle match.

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kedbeck said:
First range session with the T1x.
Groups were shot at 86m/94y at 0 degrees C / 32F, using CCI SV.
The smallest groups meassured 15 mm / 0.6" but most had that one flyer that pushed'em to just about 1 MOA.
Can't wait to see what it'll do with some Center-x or SK rifle match.
Click to expand...

Very nice! I have a range session planned with mine tomorrow. I will be testing CCI SV & MiniMag, Federal AutoMatch & Black Pack, Aguila Standard & Super Extra. I hope to find some of the better ammo this afternoon at some of the local gun shops.
 
@skinnj1 thank you for posting and taking the time to explain whats required. I like to see people that are sharing what they learnt/did rather than keep it a big secret.
Will probably be doing the same sort of steps to get my t1x in the krg bravo I've got.
 
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Does anyone know, or could estimate, what the weight of the T1x 22LR, both 16.5" and 20" barrels, would be in a GRS T3 BiFrost Stock?
 
@bgavin- MPA I am highly confident it will provided you reinstall the mag catch but I dont own a centerfire Tikka (yet) to prove it. I have made more than one of my own aics compatible chassis in the past and based on those experiences, there is enough of the existing magwell it should be gtg. The KRG bravo has a lot less material at the back of the magwell due to the backbone /triggergaurd design. It should be ok with a second triggergaurd from KRG modified for a horizontal attachment as per my posts above but i am not confident with existing TG. When you mill the TG per above posts you get real close to the cross pin hole for mag catch. So with the Bravo, if you want centerfire crosscompatability, make sure you can get an extra TG first, it was a non-issue for me.
 
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Magnetic said:
It has been done. There is a pic of it here in one of the T1X threads.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I’m supposed to be picking mine up today. I’ll wait for a bit and see what the market comes up with. Am I correct in understanding that the factory T3X CTR stocks, as well as any rifle stock inletted for the CTR bottom metal should be good to go? If so, that’s a bummer. I now regret selling my CTR stock this summer.
 
Jay Ell Gee said:
Thanks. I’m supposed to be picking mine up today. I’ll wait for a bit and see what the market comes up with. Am I correct in understanding that the factory T3X CTR stocks, as well as any rifle stock inletted for the CTR bottom metal should be good to go? If so, that’s a bummer. I now regret selling my CTR stock this summer.
Click to expand...

I believe the "drop-in fit" is only for T3 and T3X stocks. Mine is in a GRS Berzerk for a T3X and it fit with minimal tweaking. If the CTR stock will accept T3X bottom metal, then it should work, but I am just speculating as I have never owned a CTR.
 
Tikka t1x @100 yards. What's very impressive is this was SK basic flat nose on windy 22 degree day
 

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Shooter992 said:
Tikka t1x @100 yards. What's very impressive is this was SK basic flat nose on windy 22 degree day
Click to expand...
I have shot a small amount of the basic flat nose and I thought it did really well in my Vudoo. It was just in low stock and rifle match was on sale and in plenty of supply so I never tried the flat nose again.
I would suggest giving it a try.
 
Jay Ell Gee said:
Thanks. I’m supposed to be picking mine up today. I’ll wait for a bit and see what the market comes up with. Am I correct in understanding that the factory T3X CTR stocks, as well as any rifle stock inletted for the CTR bottom metal should be good to go? If so, that’s a bummer. I now regret selling my CTR stock this summer.
Click to expand...

The T1x bottom metal/plastic will fit in a stock that is inlet for a CTR, but there will be a gap on each side of it. The CTR bottom metal is wider than the standard T3 and T3x bottom plastic.
 
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260284 said:
The T1x bottom metal/plastic will fit in a stock that is inlet for a CTR, but there will be a gap on each side of it. The CTR botthom metal is wider than the standard T3 and T3x bottom plastic.
Click to expand...

Makes perfect sense. It’s been a while since I swapped, so I was having trouble picturing it. Thank you.
 
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