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Tikka T1X

I noticed a majority of fliers disappeared when I put my t1x in a chassis instead of the factory stock. I can't wait until there's a few more options for barrels, maybe someone will start making them with a little faster twist rate to keep them stable farther out.

One thing I had happen with the stock barrel was that my groups shrink to almost half the size when I shoot it with a can. Harmonics are real lol
 
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Memberberries said:
I noticed a majority of fliers disappeared when I put my t1x in a chassis instead of the factory stock. I can't wait until there's a few more options for barrels, maybe someone will start making them with a little faster twist rate to keep them stable farther out.

One thing I had happen with the stock barrel was that my groups shrink to almost half the size when I shoot it with a can. Harmonics are real lol
Click to expand...

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the gyroscopic stability increases at distance because the velocity decreases fast but the spin rate stays relatively the same.
As long as the twist is fast enough to stabilise the projectile the first meters/yards it should not pose a problem at reduced velocities downrange.

That said, I have seen T1x barrels out there from International Barrels (IBI), Lothar Walther (USA only?) and Preferred Barrel Blanks (no a pre-fit I believe).
I'm sure Proof Research and others will follow suit soon enough.
Any good options for European T1x shooters out there?

A nice Bartlein barrel for the T1x would be sweet! 😎
 
M289 said:
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the gyroscopic stability increases at distance because the velocity decreases fast but the spin rate stays relatively the same.
As long as the twist is fast enough to stabilise the projectile the first meters/yards it should not pose a problem at reduced velocities downrange.

That said, I have seen T1x barrels out there from International Barrels (IBI), Lothar Walther (USA only?) and Preferred Barrel Blanks (no a pre-fit I believe).
I'm sure Proof Research and others will follow suit soon enough.
Any good options for European T1x shooters out there?

A nice Bartlein barrel for the T1x would be sweet! 😎
Click to expand...

I don't know enough to know if you're right or wrong but using a bullet I pulled out of a case and the bc and velocity tried up so my drops match reality, all the calculators say SK standard plus and Lapua Center x are marginally stable. There's always lots of talk about faster twist rimfire barrels but nobody sells much. Bartlein could probably make one easily but I'm not ready to spend that kind of money on this gun when it's already sub-moa to 100, unless I start shooting nrl22x matches.
 
Memberberries said:
I don't know enough to know if you're right or wrong but using a bullet I pulled out of a case and the bc and velocity tried up so my drops match reality, all the calculators say SK standard plus and Lapua Center x are marginally stable. There's always lots of talk about faster twist rimfire barrels but nobody sells much. Bartlein could probably make one easily but I'm not ready to spend that kind of money on this gun when it's already sub-moa to 100, unless I start shooting nrl22x matches.
Click to expand...
I too noticed that the ballistic calculators tell me the stability is marginal at around 1.3 SG but they still seem to fly straight and not tumble to their destination.

IBI seems to do a 1-16 twist which is marginally faster than the 1-16.5 twist that Tikka uses.
I read about @padom doing projects (and group buys) for special rimfire barrels but I'm not sure if he did any fast twist barrels.
 
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Jobediah said:
Fixing to go order a t1x. Any consensus on 16 vs. 20 barrel length?
Click to expand...

I bought the 16 inch and I'm still tormented about if I made the right decision or not. Although I just admired myself holding it in the mirror so I guess I'm happy with it ;)

If you ever plan to use a chassis then I'd get the 20 inch as imho a chassis with a 16 inch just looks odd.
 
slodsm said:
Me too man; I honestly don’t think they’ll shrink much for the “best” groups, I’m hoping it develops more consistency and the overall average will come down.

One thing I noticed immediately is how much smoother it feeds compared to the stock Barrel. The action has always been rough on this rifle (chambering) even with 1500 rounds down the barrel.
Straight out of the box though this one is buttery smooth and I’m quite happy.
Just gotta let my shoulder heal up a bit more before testing it, just had shoulder surgery Wednesday.
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I have been waiting for a real test on one of these LW barrels. My T1X is a great rifle but I cant seem to get consistent sub MOA groups at 100 Yards. Can't wait to see your results!
 
I’ve read thru most of this and from what I’m understanding a T1x will fit in a Manners T3 stock as “drop in” meaning no modification. Is this correct? Thanks
 
unoigo said:
I’ve read thru most of this and from what I’m understanding a T1x will fit in a Manners T3 stock as “drop in” meaning no modification. Is this correct? Thanks
Click to expand...
I had mine in a manners prs1tk with mini chassis and needed to only slightly relief dremel for the bolt release. I don't know about the non mini chassis stock. You might have to do a good amount of dremel work to provide a space for the magwell bolt.

I don't think any t3 chassis/stock is a t1x drop in unless they state it. Most t3 stocks/chassis will require slight modifications
 
Usmcsomerville said:
I had mine in a manners prs1tk with mini chassis and needed to only slightly relief dremel for the bolt release. I don't know about the non mini chassis stock. You might have to do a good amount of dremel work to provide a space for the magwell bolt.

I don't think any t3 chassis/stock is a t1x drop in unless they state it. Most t3 stocks/chassis will require slight modifications
Click to expand...

Good feedback, thank you. Of the ones available for quick ship, it does have the mini chassis.
 
unoigo said:
Good feedback, thank you. Of the ones available for quick ship, it does have the mini chassis.
Click to expand...

20200519_210632.jpg


Here is mine that I had mounted. If you get one feel free to pm me if you have questions. It is super easy and very obvious what needs to be dremeled and once the action is mounted, you can't see it.
 
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Usmcsomerville said:
View attachment 7399493

Here is mine that I had mounted. If you get one feel free to pm me if you have questions. It is super easy and very obvious what needs to be dremeled and once the action is mounted, you can't see it.
Click to expand...

Damn good looking stick! I’m sure it runs just as good. I appreciate the offer.Hope to have the stock in my hands in a week or two.
 
@Usmcsomerville

Does the razor make the rifle feel top heavy? That’s the glass I wanted to go with but was worried about the weight balance.
 
RETE8 said:
First confirmed kill with my T1X while shooting at 100 yds:ROFLMAO:.....poor fly never stood a chance...
Click to expand...

I just watched a Youtube vid of someone hunting groundhogs with a 300 win mag. This is the same overkill ratio, at a smaller scale ;)
 
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Just picked up my T1x. Really impressed and can't wait to get it up and running. What's the scope rail to get? Been considering the Area 419 30 MOA and Mountain Tactical 30 MOA, but saw the 25 MOA DIP is over $20 cheaper and gets good reviews....
 
fyaman43 said:
Just picked up my T1x. Really impressed and can't wait to get it up and running. What's the scope rail to get? Been considering the Area 419 30 MOA and Mountain Tactical 30 MOA, but saw the 25 MOA DIP is over $20 cheaper and gets good reviews....
Click to expand...

Ive had really bad luck with the DIP rails. I had one on a T1x and one on a 10/22 that were both marked 25 moa. They were both actually 0 MOA. I switched to an Anarchy Outdoors rail on my T1x and am really happy with it. I believe it was $60 and came with a built in level.
 
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I got the Tactical Ordnance Inc (from Canada) 30 MOA rail and it's build like a tank.
Would take either the Tacord or Area419 rail, both good stuff!

Oh, the Tacord rail is a bit taller than the Area 419 rail which is really low profile.
 
took my bravo t1x out last weekend........one 1/2" hole at 50yds.....right at 1 MOA at 100yds....but at 150yds the thing fell apart and i couldn't get anything going.

I was shooting sk rifle match and lapua center x
 
GSRswapandslow said:
took my bravo t1x out last weekend........one 1/2" hole at 50yds.....right at 1 MOA at 100yds....but at 150yds the thing fell apart and i couldn't get anything going.

I was shooting sk rifle match and lapua center x
Click to expand...

That is the same thing I have seen with all my factory barrels. Both my CZ 457 and my T1x when it still had the factory barrel shot really well inside 100 yards. After 100 yards the groups really fell apart though no matter what ammo I was using. Beyond 100 yards is where you really see a difference with the custom barrels. When I rebarreled my Tikka the groups inside 100 did tighten up but beyond 100 yards was the real difference. My Vudoo is the same way. Inside 100 It is impressive but beyond 100 is where the custom barrels really shine.
 
Oh the factory barrel was a PITA to remove but quite a few guys have had good luck with PB blaster and heat. On the other hand I’ve heard other people who didn’t have any issues removing their barrels. Both of the ones I had were not so easy to remove however. I will say I didn’t just buy a drop in barrel. I took my rifle to a smith and he fit, chambered and head spaced the barrel for me. I just think if you want to get every last bit of possible accuracy out of the rifle custom fit is the only way to go.
 
Question for the folks who have changed the barrel out from factory to aftermarket. What did you find as far as improved groups. Specifically did you do the 6x5 with your best lot of ammo and then repeat that 6x5 after the new barrel. I’m really curious how a new barrel performed ( all things being equal with good before and after )

im working with a mostly stock T1x and am lot testing various ammo at 200. Wanting to see from other folks what was best at 200 with factory barrel and then what improvement they got with aftermarket barrel at 200.

thank you. Really learning a bunch.
 
Generally speaking I cut my groups inside 100 in half. My 50 yd 6x5 with the factory barrel was around .4”. After the custom barrel I can pretty consistently shoot right around a .2”. At 100 I average .6-.7”. When I stretch out to 200 yards I have not shot groups but I have a 2 1/2” piece of steel that I rarely miss unless I have a round that shoots really fast or slow. You can’t blame the rifle when you get 30-40fps difference in muzzle velocity though. I have been really lucky and found some really consistent lots of the cheaper Eley ammo and got cases. I did the same with my Vudoo with SK ammo. I found something that shot well and bought as much as I could get my hands on. With the way rimfire ammo seems to be drying up I’m glad I bought it when I did.
 
Does anyone know of a flat blade trigger designed for the t1x or t3? I'd really like to find just the trigger and put it in my factory fcg. I have it where it breaks just right to me. If replacing the whole thing is the only option I'm just going to live with it.
 
Here my new Tikka t1x in Cadex Nuke Strike EVO stock.
Now i try different Ammo this week look like the Eley match goes very well in this rifle.

But i don't know if the Federal gold medal match HV was a good round to try. Some of you try it.
 

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Hey Guys, I am still a noob when it comes to many things surrounding rifles. My t1x (factory stock) has the barrel touching the stock on the left side, and by extension has a sizeable gap on the right side. Is this an issue with action screw torque or is there something else I am missing?

1598050693548.png
 
Have you shot the rifle yet? It might not affect performance or be worth addressing if it shoots well.
 
It’s a cheap plastic stock. Chances are it is warped. My factory stock would flex and hit the barrel every time I loaded the bipod. That is why everyone trashes the stock and buys something else. My factory stock stayed on my rifle for about 5 hours. It went to the range once then in the junk pile.
 
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Eoddave27,

Can you put up a picture of you T1X and give us a complete description to include barrel maker, chamber type, trigger, chassis/stock and any other specs. Your comparison to the Vudoo performance is obviously intriguing
 
Quarter Horse said:
Eoddave27,

Can you put up a picture of you T1X and give us a complete description to include barrel maker, chamber type, trigger, chassis/stock and any other specs. Your comparison to the Vudoo performance is obviously intriguing
Click to expand...

I’ll have to go back and look but all that information is already in this thread. I don’t remember what page.

edit. Go to page 67 about half way down the page.
 
My T1x arrived a couple of weeks ago. Looks just like the pic of your stock.
I'm waiting on a G5LE chassis with the adjustable stock & cheekpiece options from PDC Custom.
The Vortex Strike Eagle arrived last week.
Can't wait to assemble everything and head to the range to test different ammos!!!
 
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Bangarang said:
My T1x arrived a couple of weeks ago. Looks just like the pic of your stock.
I'm waiting on a G5LE chassis with the adjustable stock & cheekpiece options from PDC Custom.
The Vortex Strike Eagle arrived last week.
Can't wait to assemble everything and head to the range to test different ammos!!!
Click to expand...

If You force the stock straight and fill the front of it with epoxy I would guess that will fix it. If It was me I would get some lead shot and fill the front with lead and epoxy
 
Picked up my Tikka T1x with 20" barrel last week and while waiting for the KRG Bravo chassis and Sterk upgrades I'm going to test it in it's factory configuration :)

Seriously considering getting an IBI 20" barrel but going by what I read in the thread from @Kisssofdeath that is something I'll need to be well prepared for. Maybe even consider outsourcing the fitting to an actual gunsmith ;)
Tikka T1x Barrel Removal thread

The Tactical Ordnance Inc 30 MOA rail from Canada is seriously good stuff though, plenty of clearance near the ejection port.
The Tangent Theta is a bit big for this setup, the looks will improve with the KRG Bravo and IBI Bull barrel under it. Eye relief and ergonomics too I presume.

TIkka-T1x-stock.jpeg
 
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Here is my rifle. The barrel is 16 1/2” a Feddersen blank I had a local gunsmith fit and chamber for me. He used a Manson Eley EPS reamer and head spaced it at 0.041”. The stock in the photo is a MPA chassis for a Tikka T3x that modified to work with the T1x. I moved the barreled action back to a KRG Bravo and put my T3 match rifle in the MPA. For the T1x I think I actually prefer the Bravo. In the photo the rifle has a Sterk bolt handle and knob. I have since changed that to the Anarchy Outdoors bolt handle and knob. It's a little longer which I prefer.

E51DB114-79A4-418D-B4B6-E92C4DE00F7A.jpeg
 
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I plan to run the factory barrel for a while before replacing it.
I definitely plan to outsource the fitting and chambering!

Any feeding or ejection issues running the Anarchy Outdoors bolt and knob? I read some folks have issues with the Sterk...
 
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