I maybe should post this in the novice forum but new someone here would know. I bought a lh GRS Bifrost and have thoughts of replacing my Tac A1 stock. Attached is a picture of a “shroud lug”?? It is not the recoil lug as there is one in the Tac receiver and another in the bifrost. I am guessing the collar on the barrel must be loosened to get this”shroud thingy off? I thought these Bifrost stocks were just drop in ready?? Any other help or videos would be appreciated!!
As you noticed, there is something like that that’s part of the Tac A1 chassis. If there is another collar that came with the Bifrost it must be part of the mounting system. Just take the A1 apart until you’re left with the bare barreled action and see how it fits in the bifrost.
edit: to be clear, the thing that looks like an ar15 barrel nut in the Tac A1 isn’t part of the Tikka action, it’s specific to that chassis.
phlegethon: Based on your response, apparently the barrel collar has to be removed in order to remove the "shroud thingy". Would it be safe to say that removing the "collar"/nut, has nothing to do with holding the barrel on? Probably a dumb question but I know that Savages use a barrel nut and I just am not familar with how the Tikka barrel is attached.
Yes, there’s no barrel nut in a stock Tikka. The barrel is shouldered and screwed into the receiver. You will not accidentally remove it. The thing that looks like a nut is part of the mounting system for the chassis.
Thanks. Wish I could find a YouTube video but have not had any luck.
This is a photo of the Tac A1 chassis by itself if that helps.
Attachments
Anyone know what the inside diameter of the collar that slips over the barrel is? Curious as to what diameter barrel you could fit.
Hello all. New to the forum and also new to Tikka. Just ordered my first one yesterday and though Im 43, I feel like a kid at christmas. ?
I picked up a Lite SS 6.5 CM 24" from gunsmidwest.com for $670 shipped. Don't know if I could beat that price! This rifle will pull double duty as a lightweight whitetail/hopefully elk gun as well as LR target gun. I plan to drop it into a KRG Xray soon. But I have a couple of questions hopefully some of you can answer.
Does anyone have experience with a good clamp on brake? If that is a bad idea, anyone know a good gunsmith in the Charlotte, NC area I could go to have it threaded? Also, any suggestions on brakes?
My other question is, why does everyone swap the bottom metal as soon as they get the rifle? Is there some deficiency in the factory BM I should be aware of?
Thanks!
I picked up a Lite SS 6.5 CM 24" from gunsmidwest.com for $670 shipped. Don't know if I could beat that price! This rifle will pull double duty as a lightweight whitetail/hopefully elk gun as well as LR target gun. I plan to drop it into a KRG Xray soon. But I have a couple of questions hopefully some of you can answer.
Does anyone have experience with a good clamp on brake? If that is a bad idea, anyone know a good gunsmith in the Charlotte, NC area I could go to have it threaded? Also, any suggestions on brakes?
My other question is, why does everyone swap the bottom metal as soon as they get the rifle? Is there some deficiency in the factory BM I should be aware of?
Thanks!
You should shoot it first before deciding that it needs a brake. I only recently picked up my first Tikka (a 24" CTR in 6.5cm) and I have no intention of putting a brake on it even though it came threaded. I would put the recoil with 147gr ELD-M about halfway between a .223 and a .308. Pretty easy shooting gun!
Bob
Fuck not, Tikka official does not even follow me on my insta ??????.
All those 3 Tikka rifles, i have payed them with my own money.
For sure i get them a bit cheaper, since i work in a gun store, but no freebies from Tikka to me.
Im a lonely wolf like Chuck Norris, if some one does not like my pictures and shit, dont follow, but if you do, please
Tikka does though reposted 2 of my pictures, but that´s lame since i got 2000 shots on my insta wall of Tikka.
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So that's a factory .22-250 T3x Varmint, but in a CTR compatible stock? Why did you want to go with the CTR mags?Just installed my 22-250 varmint in the new CTR Bravo. I've been waiting for KRG to come out with this version of the Bravo and the wait was worth it.
What load are you shooting in it? For what purpose? I'm sure that's a very gentle shooter with that stock and that suppressor...
I agree with Bob. Unless you want to shoot long range and call your own shots, you likely won't need a brake with a 6.5 cm. It just adds weight to the rifle and makes it much louder ( both of which are less desirable for hunting). Welcome to the Tikka cult but beware; they are so easy to customize that it can get expensive
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In my opinion, there isn't a serious deficiency in the bottom metal for MOST people. Many guys want to get rid of all polymer on the rifle and it is one of those things you do to make you feel better. It will also allow you to torque down the action screws well and not get flexing. I find that if I get above about 40 inch pounds, with the polymer bottom metal, it "feels" like I shouldn't go any more. In any case, if you are getting a KRG X-ray, you won't need the tikka bottom metal.
Yes, it's a factory 22-250 Varmint. I swapped it into a factory CTR stock a couple years ago. The benefit was the 10 round double stack CTR mags instead of the plastic 5 round T3 varmint mags. I was curious if it would feed reliably but it's never given me a problem.
This rifle loves 50 grain V-max's. I can't remember the exact charge off hand but I'm running Varget with 50's and Lapua brass, flying around 3900 fps.
Im a tinkerer who can't leave well enough alone. Thats why I bought a tikka. lol ?
I'll save that for when I add a CTR to the stable. ?Then this is for you
Full Custom Barrel - McGowen Precision Barrels
Estimated Barrel Order Lead Time (IN WEEKS) Due to the production time on a custom barrel, McGowen requires a 50% Deposit on this product. You will pay 50% now, and be invoiced for the remainder when your barrel is ready to ship. If you would like to pay the full amount now select "Pay in...mcgowenbarrel.com
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20 week lead time? I don't know if I have the patience for that... lolThen this is for you
Full Custom Barrel - McGowen Precision Barrels
Estimated Barrel Order Lead Time (IN WEEKS) Due to the production time on a custom barrel, McGowen requires a 50% Deposit on this product. You will pay 50% now, and be invoiced for the remainder when your barrel is ready to ship. If you would like to pay the full amount now select "Pay in...
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What is the lightest barrel profile one should go on a long range/tactical rig?
Christmas came early, got a mcmillan game scout in just 3.5 months after being quoted 6. To say I’m impressed with the way the stock turned out would be a huge understatement.
Now it just needs a cerakote and the muzzle threaded.
Good point. Have a beater?
They are all the same action. What makes a CTR a CTR is the bottom metal (if you're going chassis doesn't make sense for you. Go AICS), and the heavier threaded barrel. Re-barrel and you get a faster barrel than factory.
I want to keep the lite profile for hunting. So I may just get a beater and rebarrel it down the road. Who doesn't need at least two tikkas?
Been on a sick leave over 3-months, got spinal hernia on S1 joint.
So being a 24/7 inside 4 walls almost all the time, i have had hard time, so now the back starts to get little bit better, and i can shoot, but then again, here has start to come snow and i am not able to go to my sand pit, i thought i do something mind blowing, i did a recoil behaving on 223rem
So being a 24/7 inside 4 walls almost all the time, i have had hard time, so now the back starts to get little bit better, and i can shoot, but then again, here has start to come snow and i am not able to go to my sand pit, i thought i do something mind blowing, i did a recoil behaving on 223rem
Been on a sick leave over 3-months, got spinal hernia on S1 joint.
So being a 24/7 inside 4 walls almost all the time, i have had hard time, so now the back starts to get little bit better, and i can shoot, but then again, here has start to come snow and i am not able to go to my sand pit, i thought i do something mind blowing, i did a recoil behaving on 223rem
Get out there in that snow and never let Russia forget they got bested at their own game.
That looks about right.
The Game Scout seems to have decent ergonomics without adding too much weight and bulk.
It feels really right for a coyote gun. The cheek piece definitely added some weight but Im no ounce counter and prefer a rifle in the 10 pound range. Stock is super stiff, McMillan did a great job with their carbon fiber shell.
Looks very nice! Is that cut on the front of the cheek rest deep enough to let you remove the bolt - even if you raise the cheek rest even higher than on the picture?
Sweet. I have one coming too. I got a call this morning from McM (about 6 weeks after I ordered) asking a question and they were building it so I think I will have mine early too
The cheek piece needs to be lowered or removed to take the bolt out as pictured above.
Sweet. I have one coming too. I got a call this morning from McM (about 6 weeks after I ordered) asking a question and they were building it so I think I will have mine early too
McMillan was great to work with, they called to confirm a few things for me as the stock was being made, mainly the additional pic rail I had put on for tripod mounting. Great service and I’m impressed with the build quality.
Can anyone recommend a good die set for 6.5 cm?
Yes, I had never had a custom stock before so had a LOT of questions. Josh at McMillan was great at answering my many emails and phone calls over the course of a few weeks and I never felt like I was being brushed off or hurried. If their stocks are as good as the service, it won't be my last one.
Hey guys,
Don't have access to a chrono at the moment. But, i am just curious as to what what type of speeds guys are getting from factory 140/147 ELDM's out of a 24" CTR with factory barrel.
Just picked one up and topped it with an Ares ETR 4.5-30X and am excited to stretch it's legs and start working up data. Think realistically it'll get something like 2650 with the 140's. Planning on sticking with factory till my shooting improves enough to warrant reloading.
Don't have access to a chrono at the moment. But, i am just curious as to what what type of speeds guys are getting from factory 140/147 ELDM's out of a 24" CTR with factory barrel.
Just picked one up and topped it with an Ares ETR 4.5-30X and am excited to stretch it's legs and start working up data. Think realistically it'll get something like 2650 with the 140's. Planning on sticking with factory till my shooting improves enough to warrant reloading.
Thank you sir.
I have a LH Tac A1, can I drop this into any T3 stock if I wanted to get away from the chassis? Or does the Tac A1 have a different footprint?
I dont think so. The trigger guard/bottom metal is different. It may go into a CTR because they use the same magazine.
Seabee: I think we are in the exact same boat! Even the LH part. According to Ashley at Tikkashooters.com, they have a bottom metal that would work with our Tac A1's and any after market stock. The only LH stock I could find that was not a chassis was a GRS Bifrost. I plan on calling her tomorrow to make sure I am understanding her emails correctly.
Buy a right hand stock or chassis and use a hand file to file out a bolt handle groove.
It was only one range trip, but that initial trip my Tac A1 liked the 147 Hornady than the 140. May want to give it a shot.
Short answer - Lee, Hornady, RCBS, Redding, Forster... But it is like buying anything - what is a good car, a good gun, a good lawnmower, etc.?
As with any caliber, what is your budget, expertise/experience, firearm (bolt, semi-, single-shot), discipline (hunting, benchrest, plinking, 3-gun) etc. There is no cookie-cutter answer - you want everything in one box? If you are on a tight budget, Lee. Have some money, Hornady or RCBS; then there are the match dies. But before I would buy the Hornady/RCBS match dies I would look seriously at Redding and Forster. Maybe buy previously owned dies? For my 6.5CM I purchased Redding Type-S Sizing Die with Titanium Bushing, Forster Benchrest Micrometer Seating Die, Lapua Brass, BR4 primers - no regrets. It was the right answer for ME.
Best advice from ME - it's an investment in time and money, the fun is in the hunt... If anywhere, answers to your questions are in Sniper's Hide. Do your research, find the responses that fit your shooting style, narrow your criteria, provide the audience with some background, and ask questions that you couldn't find an acceptible answer.
I have RCBS standard die set + neck sizind die.
Work just fine, and i believe those aint bad, since my Krieger barrel Tikka 6.5 creedmoor has given 5-shots 100-meters 0,18MOA group.
But for sure it aint the most precise kit.
RCBS has premium set, so does Redding and Forster too.
But for the money, that RCBS is good.
Work just fine, and i believe those aint bad, since my Krieger barrel Tikka 6.5 creedmoor has given 5-shots 100-meters 0,18MOA group.
But for sure it aint the most precise kit.
RCBS has premium set, so does Redding and Forster too.
But for the money, that RCBS is good.
I've managed to produce perfectly good ammunition with a Lee Loader.... It was just slow work - but worked fine, at least when loading for the same rifle that the brass was used in before.
I've been using Lee for over a decade. I have RCBS and Lyman as well, but mainly use Lee because those are in the calibers I load most. I'm probably going to upgrade to some better dies at some point, but that may be a while just because these are producing ammo that shoots better than my limits. Once I feel my ammo is the factor holding me back, yes, I'll do something different.
Overall, any of the basic entry level sets of dies will likely do very well for the great majority of shooters.
What would be your dream Tikka build?
If there would be a Tikka custom shop, unlike that would never happen, but what if
I would love this kind of build.
Tikka action with KRG Midas trigger.
Steel picatinny rail 0 MOA.
Proof carbonfiber bull barrer 22-24".
Never even hold my hands one, but read a lot and they look very good, and it would keep the weight down, since the barrel is the most heavy part on rifle.
Caliber could be 6mm creedmoor or 6mm XC, never had 6mm.
KRG Whiskey gen 3 chassis with folding stock.
Full titanium suppressor, light and quiet.
Final drop would be cerakoted with multicamo, kind of love that pattern.
If there would be a Tikka custom shop, unlike that would never happen, but what if
I would love this kind of build.
Tikka action with KRG Midas trigger.
Steel picatinny rail 0 MOA.
Proof carbonfiber bull barrer 22-24".
Never even hold my hands one, but read a lot and they look very good, and it would keep the weight down, since the barrel is the most heavy part on rifle.
Caliber could be 6mm creedmoor or 6mm XC, never had 6mm.
KRG Whiskey gen 3 chassis with folding stock.
Full titanium suppressor, light and quiet.
Final drop would be cerakoted with multicamo, kind of love that pattern.
I use Lee for most calibers, but I want to get a little nicer set for 6.5cm. I will look at redding and forester. Have a part number? Thanks
Oh boy, I'm gonna be cut to pieces on this. I am still experimenting so I cannot say whether the Redding Type S Die or the Redding Body Die and the Lee Collet Neck Sizer is best. Obviously, I have more money than common sense and I wasn't on a budget.
Do you own research... This is a list of the stuff I bought
Do you own research... This is a list of the stuff I bought
| Lupua USA Reloading Brass 6.5 Creedmoor (4PH6011) Qty: 2 x 100 |
| Hornady 6.5mm/.264 140gr ELD-Match Bullets (26331) Qty: 2 x 100 |
| Hodgdon H4350 41.5gr (43501) 2 x 1lb |
| CCI BR4 or #450 Small Rifle Primers |
| Foster Bench-Rest Ultra Micrometer Seater Die - 6.5mm Creedmoor (U00062) |
| Redding Shellholder #1 (110001) (.308, 6.5 Creemoor) |
| Redding Competition Shellholder Set #1 (11601) |
| Lee Precision Collet Neck Sizing Die Only (80110-27) |
| Redding Body Die 6.5 Creedmoor (75446) |
| Foster Deluxe Die Box (DIE0002) |
| Hornady Universal Decapping Die (050085) - for Lupua .059" Flashhole |
| Hornady Headed Decapping Pin Small .055" (396618) Qty: 2x |
| Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Insert .264" (5-26) |
| RCBS Collet Bullet Puller Collet 26 Caliber, 6.5mm (9423) |
| Redding Type S Bushing Full-Length Sizer Die (77446) |
| Redding Neck Sizer Die Bushing Titanium .290" (76290) |
| Redding Decapping Pins Undersized .057" PPC Pack of 10 (01059) |
