Tikka T3 Thread

Rodder

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Glad I found this thread. I'm almost done fiddling with my superlite. I'm sitting at 7lbs 15oz with swapped Ti parts and an Ibex stock. Does anyone have any pics of their tikka with an 18" barrel? I have a 24" carbon barrel I want to put on for NRL Hunter but would like to get it closer to 7lbs four some bush hunting.
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category_theory

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Hey y'all, serious question here. While I was replacing my barrel (I should have taken the trigger off, I know!) my safety's retention e-clip popped off. When it did the sear spring popped out. How in the hell do I get it back in!? How does it install?! Thanks! I can post pics as well...
 

LeftyJason

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    Hey y'all, serious question here. While I was replacing my barrel (I should have taken the trigger off, I know!) my safety's retention e-clip popped off. When it did the sear spring popped out. How in the hell do I get it back in!? How does it install?! Thanks! I can post pics as well...
    Please post pics. I've got a possible project someday messing with trigger stuff.
     

    category_theory

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    Please post pics. I've got a possible project someday messing with trigger stuff.


    Since I haven't been able to find anything on the internets, nor here, and almost no one Ive found even sells Tikka Sear springs (or I guess trigger return springs). Ill update here for the other poor sap that makes the same mistake I did....

    So the first image below is the mess... the black piece at the top is the safety mechanism, the black stud / rod is what goes through the hole at the rear (this sounds gross already) of the trigger assembly and through the rear of the sear. The sear is pinned to pivot at the top right of the trigger but also has a hole that the safety mechanism rod can pass through and then is held in please by an e-clip on the other side.

    The bottom image is where the sear spring is inserted into... it took me a second to figure this out... The spring is compressed in this hole and held IN PLACE by the safety rod that passes through the sear... THIS IS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO PUT BACK! you have to compress the spring, which is fairly strong given its size... THEN pass the rod through both the trigger housing and the sear and keep the spring compressed enough to allow it to pass through. Hands, mouths, my wife's hands, small screw drivers, etc were all used to get it back in... (again sorry for the sexy images... ;).

    So for any poor sap that finds themself in the same place hopefully this helps. net net the sear spring is hidden IN the sear. If the e-clip comes off and you pull the safety it WILL come out and be a pain in the ass to get in.


    IMG_9628.jpg
    IMG_9629.jpg
     

    category_theory

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    They're really not that hard to pull I'd never removed a bolt gun barrel before doing Tikkas and I've done three without an issue. My local smith said the same thing yours did I don't know if they just say that to prepare you for worst case or just don't want to do it. Barrel vise and action wrench are like $175 and you could sell them after you're done if you want. Plus you will have a barrel to sell or keep for another use.

    So I got the damn thing off! Read all of the posts on there, got a mechforce barrel vise from amazon and the Wheeler #1. Let the barrel soak with Kroil Oil for a few days, barrel pointed down to allow the oil to penetrate. Synched down the barrel in the vise with drywall tape and resin, synched the wrench down on the action and two good hits with my impact hammer and she spun off... took all of 5 minutes! (Post the soak, of course!).
     

    dzeke

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    You wouldn't happen to know how much the barrel weighs would you? How bad is the percussion without the suppressor? Some guys have told me anything under 20" is brutal and others say it's fine.
    The barrel & barrel nut is 2lbs - 2oz. I actually did weigh it individually. I'll attach my list of parts, I apologize its a little convoluted now since I've changed a few things. Honestly, I've only shot it once without the suppressor as a test fire when I put the new barrel on. It's certainly loud, with earplugs it's ok, I wouldn't want to shoot it lot. But I refuse to shoot un-suppressed anymore lol.
    IMG_20220718_120153555.jpg
     
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    munch520

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    Doing it next week. I’ll post experiences, I’m lazy so I’m guessing a relief cut is in my future.
     
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    category_theory

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    Doing it Friday. I’ll post experiences, I’m lazy so I’m guessing a relief cut is in my future.

    I just took mine off. It was actually super easy with a little prep.

    1. I stripped the entire receiver down, trigger and all.
    2. I put the barrel in a bench vise pointed barrel downward and hit the inside of the receiver where it meets the chamber threads w Kroil oil (downward so the oil flowed towards the threads).
    3. I did this periodically for 3 days. Just keep the barrel in the vise and hit it with the oil every so often….

    4. Then put the barrel in a proper barrel vise.
    5. Synched the living fck out of it but first wrapping it dry way tape and using resin to increase grip…..
    6. mounted up the wheeler #1 wrench to the receiver and hit it with an impact hammer.

    Popped off first hit!

    Now I have a perfectly good 20” barrel for hunting or a lighter weight rig and a new 26” tikka pre fit!

    After everything I had read I was expecting a war… it was over before I could even document…
     
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    munch520

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    I just took mine off. It was actually super easy with a little prep.

    1. I stripped the entire receiver down, trigger and all.
    2. I put the barrel in a bench vise pointed barrel downward and hit the inside of the receiver where it meets the chamber threads w Kroil oil (downward so the oil flowed towards the threads).
    3. I did this periodically for 3 days. Just keep the barrel in the vise and hit it with the oil every so often….

    4. Then put the barrel in a proper barrel vise.
    5. Synched the living fck out of it but first wrapping it dry way tape and using resin to increase grip…..
    6. mounted up the wheeler #1 wrench to the receiver and hit it with an impact hammer.

    Popper off first hit!

    Now I have a perfectly good 20” barrel for hunting or a lighter weight rig and a new 26” tikka pre fit!

    After everything I had read I was expecting a war… it was over before I could even document…
    Interesting! Maybe worth a try then, I have a Tikka action wrench so it should up to the task.

    Barrel landed, very excited.
    52229430667_92a0597957_b.jpg
     
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    LANCER

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    Interesting! Maybe worth a try then, I have a Tikka action wrench so it should up to the task.

    Barrel landed, very excited.
    52229430667_92a0597957_b.jpg
    I would not recommend an internal wrench for the initial breaking off of the factory barrel, you might destroy that wrench. Get a wheeler external wrench. Once you get it off, you can use the internal for any future barrel changes. New barrel will be fine between 80-100 ft/lbs. Also get a go-gauge to ensure the new barrel is headspaced properly. Put a piece of scotch tape on the back of the go-gauge to make it a no-go gauge. It's about 2 thou for 1 layer of tape, and 4-5 thou for 2 layers. I used a proof prefit as well.
    Nice chassis, is that the Spuhr?
     

    valsport

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    @Bevo Nice. What height ARC mount did you need to clear the handguard with the 50mm bell and caps? On 20moa cant?

    Boomer Sooner
     

    Bevo

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    @Bevo Nice. What height ARC mount did you need to clear the handguard with the 50mm bell and caps? On 20moa cant?

    Boomer Sooner
    The 30mm mount is 1.5" high. 0moa but a 20moa would clear.

    The 34mm mount with the Gen3 Razor is a 1.5" 20moa.

    🤘
     
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    munch520

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    @Bevo Nice. What height ARC mount did you need to clear the handguard with the 50mm bell and caps? On 20moa cant?

    Boomer Sooner
    Just of note, I have 50mm obj as well and 1.5 20moa cleared for me on factory chassis but was so tight that I couldn't thread the front cap on (hinge would hit the rail).
    52128752792_844b6977b3_b.jpg


    I doubt an optic with 56mm would've worked and the 1.5 kinked my neck after 2 full days behind the gun. Definitely happier with the 1.18 on my new chassis.
     
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    valsport

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    Just of note, I have 50mm obj as well and 1.5 20moa cleared for me on factory chassis but was so tight that I couldn't thread the front cap on (hinge would hit the rail).

    I doubt an optic with 56mm would've worked and the 1.5 kinked my neck after 2 full days behind the gun. Definitely happier with the 1.18 on my new chassis.
    Damn that TAC A1 chassis you sold has been haunting me for a month and a half!! Missed it by hours. I digress...

    The photo is a 50mm bell and 1.5" height?
     
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    valsport

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    Well hell I may be scrapping my plan before it gets too far down the road. AADMOUNT caps are beefy and if a 50mm is going to be that tight I may consider another folder.
     

    munch520

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    Yeah something with a cutout is key, most chassis upgrades are that way with the fixed bridge further forward or you can add bridge pieces where you want.
     
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    Pharmseller

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    I need the round brass insert that anchors the forward sling stud in the stock. Any idea where I can buy one?




    P
     

    EasySlick

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    Quick question for anyone using a McMillan. What torque specs are you using on the action screws. I saw McMillan recommends 45in lbs. I've got a CTR going in an A-5 adjustable (Highland Camo) w/factory installed pillars (I'm not going to bed it). Years ago I had a Rem 700 I put in an A-5 but I can't remember the torque values I used.
    Thanks in advance.
     

    plong

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    Quick question for anyone using a McMillan. What torque specs are you using on the action screws. I saw McMillan recommends 45in lbs. I've got a CTR going in an A-5 adjustable (Highland Camo) w/factory installed pillars (I'm not going to bed it). Years ago I had a Rem 700 I put in an A-5 but I can't remember the torque values I used.
    Thanks in advance.
    45 here… both my McM A3 and KRG Bravo
     

    david walter

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    This is the way.

    Also, tap it one time hard in the tightening direction, and then untighten it. it should come off.

    Someone turned me on the that method, and I’m 5 for 5 in taking off factory barrels the first try since.

    I used an external wrench to remove it and then a tikka internal to install….
     
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    LeftyJason

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    Another Tikka modification.

    I have wanted to have the knob on my Sterk swept handle to be titanium. My rail is already a Murphy Precision 20moa titanium rail and I have the titanium Sterk shroud.

    Asked @cannoncrossfire (he is Sterk) for details on the shroud April of last year before I bought it and a few other questions about the handle since. 6al4v for the alloy, aluminum balls are red loctited on, and 5/16-24 thread.

    Process of removing.
    20220723_105036.jpg

    Heated with a torch to 500°f. Used infrared thermometer to tell.

    Notes on modifications needed. Relevant info is an 11mm counterbore that is 20 thou or so deep and enough counterbore in the threads to accommodate the unthreaded section under the swell. Not much can be done about that in manufacturing other than a thread relief which takes another tool when it's being made. Sterk bends the handle after it is machined.
    20220723_105357.jpg


    Was able to finally find a 6al4v titanium 1" diameter bolt handle from Anarchy Outdoors. SBK-POL. Upc 791617484610

    Needed the 11mm counterbore in it to which I was able to use a lathe (with too big of a boring bar) to cut it. It also didn't have a tailstock chuck to drill out the thread relief.

    I used a very very nice NSK Rotus IM301 air grinder with the IH300 head (about $1100 for an air powered 30,000rpm grinder) with a carbide burr to higbee the thread far enough that I was able to get it together. No I don't have one of those at home. Used $450ish.
    20220730_073551.jpg

    20220730_073558.jpg


    Assembled.
    20220730_133652.jpg

    20220730_133859.jpg


    Part of the reason to go for titanium is because of why the heck not? I'm lefthand and left eye and everything has to be modified/ special in some way why not make it unique? Working towards having a one of a kind Tikka. Other reason is that titanium is color anodizable as well. Will send it out to get done at some point but not sure on the color yet. Some possibilities below.
    Titanium-Anodization-Chart-copy-2-scaled (2).jpg
     
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    cannoncrossfire

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    Nice work @LeftyJason Titanium is a bugger to machine, so I applaud your work to modify. Don't forget folks that Titanium is still heavier than aluminium, so it's not a 'light weight' option haha. You can also heat Titanium to colour it, but it will go through colours very quickly as you heat it so it can be tricky.
     
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    LeftyJason

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    Nice work @LeftyJason Titanium is a bugger to machine, so I applaud your work to modify. Don't forget folks that Titanium is still heavier than aluminium, so it's not a 'light weight' option haha. You can also heat Titanium to colour it, but it will go through colours very quickly as you heat it so it can be tricky.
    Oh no. I went up less 195 grains in the bolt knob. Now my bolt lift will be so heavy. Not sure how I can lift it. /sarc

    Thanks for answering questions and putting out great products.
     
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    dst27

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    If this isn't the right thread to ask, let me know.

    Are .223s with a 10 twist still in favor? I came home with a Tikka T3 Varmint for about $400 from pawn shop.
    From what I've researched, Tikka stopped making their .223s with the 10 twist.
    I have tried factory and hand loads and can't seem to get any groups under 1 inch. The best is right at 1 inch. I've tried M193, M855, Federal 55 grain bulk, 55 grain vmax handloads, 65 grain sierra gamepoint handloads and 69 grain SMK handloads.
    Checked torque on all mounts and screws. Shot with clean and fouled barrel.
    Should i just give up and get an 8 twist barrel? Or is 1 moa good for this rifle?
     

    mikeshaw2

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    stupid n00b with weak google fu question:

    Can I stick any Tikka action in a chassis for PRS shooting?

    There's a 6.5CM lite in a hunting stock for $600ish out there and I know I'll want/need a chassis.

    ??

    M