Who says you need a Vudoo to run a J Allen with your 22 trainer! 
Pulled the trigger and ordered a CTR today. Will be my first Tikka. Nothing else came close when I cycled the actions. Best production bolt I felt. Can’t wait to get it. 6.5 Creedmoor, 24” barrel. Planning on getting the Tikka Performance Package from Area419 and ARC M10 rings or a Spuhr Mount. Glass will be a Weaver Tactical 3-15x50 Illuminated Mildot. Can’t wait for it to come in.
Welcome to the Tikka Owners Club !
The Area 419 stuff is top notch I have a 20 degree pic rail and Hellfire brake on my CTR.
The Area 419 stuff is top notch I have a 20 degree pic rail and Hellfire brake on my CTR.
Have not tested in the range yet this X-ray, but dry fire session it feels quite nice, pritty close to Whiskey, but Whiskey is my pride and joy.
Solid start! Welcome to the club. Lots of great info in here. Cannot speak for Spuhr, but I love my ARC rings.
Can you give some info on that action wrench/rod? I'm debating pulling my own barrel and not sure if a 700 action wrench will work since we don't have actual recoil lug in the action.
Thanks
Do you already have that scope?
If not, Vortex PST gen II is awesome scope.
5-25x50 is dope and Spuhr mount on that, you are on right track, i LOVE spuhr mounts, pure solid mounts, and i have not found product that could beat that quality.
I have 3 of those, 34mm mounts all.
One Bushnell DMR II 3.5-21 G3i is on the way for the third mount.
Yes, they are terrific. The barrel will have a maximum diameter of 1" at the shank so the very-stout barrel nut can slip over it. Tim includes a really nice barrel nut wrench as well. I opted for nitride.
Picture of the barrel nut below. Barrel profile is a custom medium-Palma-like contour. 7mm-08.
-Stooxie
I do already have the Weaver. It’s a solid little scope. Probably would be great for hunting. I had it on an SPR I built, but for now will use it on the Tikka. Plan is to save up and get either a Steiner T5Xi 5-25x56, or step up to a Kahles K525i. Just depends on what I decide I want to spend. Can get that Steiner for a pretty good bargain. That optic will go in a Spuhr for sure. But I want to shoot it for now and learn. Only mods planned for now is a Yodave spring until the KRG Midas trigger (I love a 2 stage, what I run in my ARs) and probably the Area 419 Tikka 20moa rail, along swivel pic rail, and Hellfire, or a Deadair KeyBrake. Already run the KeyBrake on my ARs. Sandman or Nomad likely in the near future. Lastly, a KRG bravo or an MDT HS3, as I have a grip and a PRS stock I need to find a use for. We shall see...
You really post some awesome pictures! Can’t wait to see your next post.
Amazing image, but I can't let you have all the creative Tikka fun
- a few I messed with on Google Photo. 
Pre fit should work fine. I’ve installed used 308 Ctr barrel purchased on here. Head space was perfect and it is sub 1/2 when I do my part using FGMM 175. I had a bad experience with a barrel nut coming loose during a match. Not diagnosed until I wasted 75rounds on 10 stages. Frustration level was high ?
Not an engineer but lots of mechanical experience. I’m thinking the low torque and small bearing surface contributed to the nut loosening up. Shoulder prefit with 10O lbs torque for me from now on.....
I have a BugNut barrel from SPR, it was the first Tikka he did. He has switched to a smaller nut for Tikkas and RAPs. I have had no issues with it and it shoots better than I can. The wrench is stout, you could probably pull a truck with it. I also have shouldered barrels on a couple of Tikkas. I swap a take off 20" CTR barrel with my BugNut barrel for a lighter hunting rifle. It headspaced perfect.
Never had an issue with it coming loose. I have swapped it with the 20" a couple of times with no issues.
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I soaked a T3 270 barreled action with kroil for 2 weeks and it came loose with a PVA inside action wrench. I put it barrel down in a vise sok gravity could help. My smith said the kroil was about halfway down the threads. I tweaked the same wrench on a CTR that had been shot a lot. Ended up have my smith put a relief cut in the barrel. The Remington outside wrench doesn't line up very well on a Tikka action.
I have heard that you can flip the top over and it works decent on a Tikka.
You can get the Wheeler #1 mauser wrench a lot cheaper than the Brownells and it is a tank of a wrench.
Also on the PVA rear entry wrench you can substitute the Mausingfield for the Tikka.
It's the same wrench it just has the ejector slot cut in the side of it.
That's what PVA suggested to me and it's rated for the same ft/lbs of torque.....
Just add here you need both of these wrenches,
External to remove your "factory" barrel because they are so tight I would not chance trying it with a rear entry wrench you might snap it off.
Use the rear entry for installing new barrels to proper torque....
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I can confirm all of that. A sheet or two of white copy paper protects the sides of the receiver nicely.
-Stooxie
It's what PVA suggested to me so I bought it and it fits like a glove....
Finally got this one put together. Can't wait to get it on the range tomorrow. 6.5cm Proof barrel by Jon Beanland, the rest should be self explanatory.
I have used the Brownells Universal Action Wrench and barrel vise to remove three Tikka factory barrels. No issues. I use the aluminum vise jaws, a sheet of lead to fit the jaws to the tikka barrel, and some powdered sugar for better friction. No marks on the barrel. Good to go.
Thanks. I may keep both and that way have a couple of options to try when I need to break loose the factory barrel.
Changed my mind on barrels, took a chance (maybe?) and ordered up a Carbon Six shouldered prefit CF barrel. 17” length, 6.5CM, Sendero profile.
Ordered the Grayboe Terrain too. Now the waiting begins for all of these and my CTR factory DBM.
Changed my mind on barrels, took a chance (maybe?) and ordered up a Carbon Six shouldered prefit CF barrel. 17” length, 6.5CM, Sendero profile.
Ordered the Grayboe Terrain too. Now the waiting begins for all of these and my CTR factory DBM.
Thanks, I really like how it turned out. I have some of your stuff on it.
260284: What speeds were you getting with those one hole pictures above? Seems pretty light compared to the 43 grains I have settled on with the same bullet. I am at 2800 with my 24" Tikka Tac A1.
Hmm, getting a PRS tikka stock might convince me to keep my tikka. Anyone in Aus seen one yet?
I am using Peterson small rifle primer brass in a 23.5" Bartlein. A friend is working up a load for his 24" CTR and is in the mid to upper 2700's with similar charges of Re16 and the same brass. Peterson has less internal capacity than the Lapua srp brass. Less capacity=more pressure/more velocity with less powder.
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Very nice!! I saw this in the Beanland thread and came over here to see if you posted it as well. Love the colors with all the CF! Did Jon flute the bolt? My Tikka just shipped from my smith, but I'm thinking about sending the bolt out to LRI to get it fluted.
LRI fluted that bolt for me a few years ago.
I ordered it from submoaparts.com. It’s a Zapp action wrench made by Gradous Rifles. I wouldn’t recommend trying to pull a factory barrel off (ask me how I know) unless you have a lathe where you can cut off the shoulder. I ruined my 300wm action, but repurposed the bolt anyway for a 6.5 SST build on my other action (so running two bolts with the same action for 6.5 cm or the wsm cartridge) If you’ve already had a smith put on a new barrel, this action wrench is great to take off an aftermarket barrel.
Beautiful rifle. 24" barrel?
I just finished swapping a 7mm rem mag barrel out for a 300 win mag barrel. While both were off I measured how far an empty case sticks out of the chamber and both were the same as measured from the shoulder. Wouldn't you think the barrel lettering would line up correctly? Both are factory tikka barrels. Currently the lettering is under-rotated about 180°.
This is true but Sako and Steyr jumped on the .260 chambering along time before it was cool..... unfortunately they were both in 1 in 9 twist....I'll bet they're watching what's going on...
I've run a 6br using the CDI bottom metal and the MDT ACC chassis. Using the PVA mag inserts in the 10rd AICS mags the feeding is perfect. Interestingly, I can run the AICS 5rd without modification - they feed 100% of the time.
Finally got back into another decent gun after a Bear Creek 6.5 grendel was the biggest gun I owned. I use to have a rebarreled 6.5CM Tikka and really missed it. This is the first bolt action I have shot suppressed and I am in love. Stock is from my old Tikka I had laying around so I sprayed it, put picatinny, and a tripod mount on it. Have plans to pick up a Manners T6a or Bravo and swap out the scope rings. Athlon Ares BTR on top.
I am running a 22BR, same brass, just necked down. I have mine in a X-Ray and am using modified Primal Rights mag kits in MDT 12 round AICS mags. Able to get 13 in each one. Shooting my first match with it tomorrow. It started as a 270 T3, but shouldn't feed any different than a T3x.
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Yeah, 24
Mate, solid mounts. They look bloody good
I bet that if Tikka would sell these 2-stage triggers, these would sell very well.
I did swap my TAC A1 trigger for the X-ray 308win CTR and i must say that it is amazing, especially after i change that factory spring in to a Yodaves.
Brakes like a glass stick.
I did swap my TAC A1 trigger for the X-ray 308win CTR and i must say that it is amazing, especially after i change that factory spring in to a Yodaves.
Brakes like a glass stick.
What is the best option for installing a picatinny rail on the CTR forearm in place of the sling swivel stud to mount an atlas bipod? I saw the Area419 rail, which I like, but wasnt sure if it would work with the polymer stock.
