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Gunsmithing Ultrasonic Cleaning

Re: Ultrasonic Cleaning

If you want one for gun parts, you'll need one of the more expensive ones if you want to do anything sizable. I borrowed my buddy's HF model (the larger one) and it did nothing to get the carbon off of my FTE. The part was too heavy for it.

The bigger/heavier the part you want to do, the more energy you need to make it vibrate.
 
Re: Ultrasonic Cleaning

An M700 bolt would kill it also. Trigger housing might be ok if its made of aluminium.

Better off getting the right piece of equipment for the job... Even for cleaning cases, the loads have to be so small or it takes forever.
 
Re: Ultrasonic Cleaning

I've heard of some very powerful ultrasonic cleaners that can take the transmission of a car and make it shine like new.

I thought surely someone on the hide is using this technique to make cleaning parts a breeze.

of course Im sure you pay for what you get in ultrasonic cleaners, im just not willing to pay several hundred dollars for one.

But like I said.. was just curious if any of ya'll use them.
 
Re: Ultrasonic Cleaning

A heated model is the KEY to good results. I use a Crest 690HTA on all pistols, revolvers and parts. Size wise the above model will take a pulled down MP5 max. Watch the cleaning solvents you use on parts like aluminum. Half water half Simple Green is my choice of solvent's. 2 or 3 30 minute cycles will take off hard carbon with a light brushing on the real tough stuff between cycles and the finished prouduct WILL be clean. You will hear my solution will effect aluminum and may but not with the short cycles I use.
 
Re: Ultrasonic Cleaning

Don't know if this would work or not, but, if you had a cleaner that was just big enough size wise and wanted to do heavier parts; why not just suspend it with a small homemade rack and some fishing monofilament?
 
Re: Ultrasonic Cleaning

With regards to the Ultrasonic cleaning of gun parts, I do have a bit of experience.

First off, NEVER set anything down in the bottom of the cleaners basin. Always suspend whatever it is you're wanting cleaned. The transducer is mounted directly to the basin, and is used to agitate (fancy word there) the LIQUID.

Just think of the process as a tiny washing machine. The liquid being agitated on a micro level, gets into pretty much every crack/crevice/slot/hole and joint. Again, that same agitation works things out, over time.

It is whatever solvent/soap/water/vinegar liquid mixture that does the dissolving of whatever it is you're wanting to remove.

I personally think it's one of the most thorough methods of cleaning "small parts groups" and whatnot. Winchester shotgun floorplate/trigger-groups are a good example. Everything gets cleaned in minutes, with no disassembley required. I wouldn't do this to a Jewel, but you get the idea, right?

As for the actual liquid or mixture used, there are many options. In the reloading forum, I have a thread, describing what another member here pioneered for cleaning the brass. JB1000 did a great job, and there are many here who now have followed his lead.

I'm not recommending this, but for the actual gun parts cleaning, the best cleaner I've found is dry-cleaning-fluid, also known as PERC. That stuff is fabulous.

Hazardous, dangerous, ozone-depleting maybe even, use outside, after sealing your basin, and all that stuff. But holy-moly, it sure does clean.

At least, that's what the movie depicted. Don't try this at home. Professional driver, closed course, highly tuned vehicle, and all that.