Gunsmithing What are you guys using now days to clean and lube?

[MrOneEyedBoh]

So Im due for a overhaul in terms of cleaning chemicals. Im a sucker for staying in the old days and well with times changing, there are now products that are not as hazardous if at all that work as good or better than what we used to use...

Im just wondering what are you guys using? Cleaner? Lube? Looking for stuff for pistol usage as well.

Looking forward for some good suggestions!

 

[Maurygold]

Boretech is always the answer.

 

[D̷e̷v̷i̷l̷D̷o̷c̷A̷Z̷]

Boretech to clean; hoppes for cologne.

 

[hafejd30]

Same boretech

C4 in rimfire
Eliminator in centerfire

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

What about lubes? Looking for handgun usages as well.

Does anyone use Patch out anymore? I have some of that but its old for sure. I dont know if stuff evaporates out of the formula or separates etc.

 

[hafejd30]

Lubes

Bores: Butches gun oil

Regular use: Slip2000

 

[Roadrace33]

Boretech c4, eliminator and their c2 plus stuff for heavy copper.

I have some of that thorroclean and it works really well for doing like a 5-800 round good deep clean.

I’ve also used the Wipe-out stuff. It works well too.

99.9% of the time I am using all Boretech products. It works really well.

 

[Genin]

Boretech for cleaning, Breakfree CLP for protecting/lubing after.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

I see a trend here for Boretech stuff lol. Isnt it touted as safer or better overall?

 

[hafejd30]

I see a trend here for Boretech stuff lol. Isnt it touted as safer or better overall?

It does the job well and isn’t as toxic or harsh as other chemicals

 

[Maurygold]

What about lubes? Looking for handgun usages as well.

Does anyone use Patch out anymore? I have some of that but its old for sure. I dont know if stuff evaporates out of the formula or separates etc.

I’m a strong believer Lucas oil lube

https://a.co/d/h6W3QKN

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

It does the job well and isn’t as toxic or harsh as other chemicals

I think Mpro is the one I was thinking of that is supposedly non-toxic.... Going to check it out now. Though its not mentioned here as of yet. Boretech seems to be the front runner.

 

[kthomas]

I think Mpro is the one I was thinking of that is supposedly non-toxic.... Going to check it out now. Though its not mentioned here as of yet. Boretech seems to be the front runner.

I use Mpro products. They work for me.

 

[TheJeanyus]

Boretech or KG for normal cleaning. If I have a carbon ring or for some reason let a barrel get exceptionally grimy then want to get it back to bare steel, I'll use Thorroclean. Yes it's slightly abrasive. I don't use it very often and don't go wild with it when I do.

 

[spife7980]

Boretech is alright but I find wipeout easier and more effective in use. If it’s hard carbon I use some clr.

 

[hafejd30]

I think Mpro is the one I was thinking of that is supposedly non-toxic.... Going to check it out now. Though its not mentioned here as of yet. Boretech seems to be the front runner.

There’s many good products now days compared to say 10 years ago. Not just limited to boretech either

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Boretech or KG for normal cleaning. If I have a carbon ring or for some reason let a barrel get exceptionally grimy then want to get it back to bare steel, I'll use Thorroclean. Yes it's slightly abrasive. I don't use it very often and don't go wild with it when I do.

I just learned out about Thorroclean. I always wanted to deep clean my Shilen bbl but never wanted to use a bore paste. Looks like there is now an alternative.

Boretech is alright but I find wipeout easier and more effective in use. If it’s hard carbon I use some clr.

Dont say alright! haha. joking. I have previously used wipe-out, patch-out, accelerator etc and liked it. But never had much to go off of. Im a one a done kinda guy, so I never ventured out, even to the basics like Butch's sadly.

There’s many good products now days compared to say 10 years ago. Not just limited to boretech either

I know, there is a whole slew of stuff. Most touting non-toxic, which to me, is a big plus. BIG plus. I have kids now and I dont want funky fumes etc in the house when cleaning if I can help it.

 

[TheJeanyus]

I know, there is a whole slew of stuff. Most touting non-toxic, which to me, is a big plus. BIG plus. I have kids now and I dont want funky fumes etc in the house when cleaning if I can help it.

I clean mine on the back porch for that reason. Even the non-toxic stuff is smelly, and I'd rather do it outside. When I'm done I even put all of the patches in a ziplock bag before I throw them away to contain the smell.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

I clean mine on the back porch for that reason. Even the non-toxic stuff is smelly, and I'd rather do it outside. When I'm done I even put all of the patches in a ziplock bag before I throw them away to contain the smell.

I was thinking about starting to do it in the shed. its a huge shed, more-so a workshop. I have a bench there etc...

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Whats your thoughts on Iosso? I would use it on my Shilen bbl thats never been deep cleaned. Seems cheap and I seem it mentioned from time to time. Maybe its an oldie but a goodie?

 

[TheJeanyus]

I was thinking about starting to do it in the shed. its a huge shed, more-so a workshop. I have a bench there etc...

I live in a subdivision with no shed or workshop, so I just clip them into my tripod with the muzzle angled downward and go for it on the back porch. My neighbors also shoot and hunt, so it doesn't bother them. I used to clean them in the garage with the door raised up a foot or two for ventilation, but the garage is too full of junk now lol.

 

[Maurygold]

Whats your thoughts on Iosso? I would use it on my Shilen bbl thats never been deep cleaned. Seems cheap and I seem it mentioned from time to time. Maybe its an oldie but a goodie?

Really can’t go wrong with Boretech.

That said I would be much more concerned with rod and pieces of metal you’re shoving down the barrel. The cleaning agents are all pretty good and all will clean. What really matters is you don’t fuck up your barrel with shitty rods and jags - this is really where I strongly recommend Boretech.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Really can’t go wrong with Boretech.

That said I would be much more concerned with rod and pieces of metal you’re shoving down the barrel. The cleaning agents are all pretty good and all will clean. What really matters is you don’t fuck up your barrel with shitty rods and jags - this is really where I strongly recommend Boretech.

Totally agree. I have bore guides and dewey rods/jags. Maybe some Tipton jags as well. Brushes are all copper.

 

[Roadrace33]

Speaking of carbon rings, ill typically soak a bore mop in C4 sometime during the cleaning process and let that thing sit for an hour, sometimes longer. Couple twists of an oversize nylon brush and i have yet to have a carbon ring i couldn't get out.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Do I need to grab all three bore cleaners or just the Eliminator? Might grab the C4 and Eliminator, since I have some that have not been cleaned real well lately.

 

[Fx51LP308]

 

[jpp3g]

Boretech to clean, Mobil 1 SOTARacha to lube pistols, carbines, and shotguns.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Boretech to clean, Mobil 1 SOTARacha to lube pistols, carbines, and shotguns.

I was thinking of making my own lube ( chad doesnt live far from me ), but prefer as I said to have non-toxic stuff for the sake of skin contact and fumes.

 

[Buzzinga]

Butchs Bore Shine for the win.
Copper Solvent IV
TW-25 grease

These are the best products I’ve ever used, and I’ve tried everything listed so far in this thread and a lot more.

 

[Roadrace33]

Do I need to grab all three bore cleaners or just the Eliminator? Might grab the C4 and Eliminator, since I have some that have not been cleaned real well lately.

I use all three cleaners regularly. The CU + copper stuff or whatever its called i use that like every 2nd cleaning maybe? It does remove heavy copper well.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

If I wanted to have ONE stronger solvent, what would it be? Sweets? Butch's?

 

[Buzzinga]

If I wanted to have ONE stronger solvent, what would it be? Sweets? Butch's?

My dad used sweets when I was a kid, he called it kangaroo piss.

Try that copper solvent IV, it’s no corrosive and works really well. Also no gross smell and no risk of damaging your bore like with sweets.

 

[Buzzinga]

But if you only want one, then I’d use Butchs. It’ll still get rid of a lot of copper fouling.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Well I think I want to use Boretech honestly, but would want something else for harder to clean rifles etc

 

[Buzzinga]

I’m sure you’ll find it does a very nice job

 

[StephenShivers]

Boretech for cleaning, Breakfree CLP for protecting/lubing after.

I'm a Breakfee user as well. Started using their synthetic formula a few years back.

 

[Maurygold]

Well I think I want to use Boretech honestly, but would want something else for harder to clean rifles etc

I just use eliminator

 

[Fig]

I 180deg off all these guys. The old ways are the best ways. Not "safe" or wonderful to breathe acetone, but cleans down to the metal in one pass. Not safe to drink or bathe in either. I just want it to work and shorten or eliminate the time spent scrubbing, then protect it till the next time I'm shooting. All I've used all my life, and I can't sleep at night if my guns aren't completely clean. I'll lie awake thinking about it.

My recipe for Ed's Red:
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits,
1 part Acetone
1 part Kroil
1 part anhydrous Lanolin

I don't even know how many years ago I made the last batch, but there is still like a half gallon left and I shoot all the time. One batch will last years and years, but you have to keep it sealed because the acetone is a super-volatile and will evaporate. Most of this stuff is probably already in your garage, and you just have to measure it out.

I DO NOT use it on plastic fantastic parts, as I know it cuts wad residue in shotguns, so probably melts most plastic. The most expensive thing in it is probably the Kroil. You can buy a can of whatever for $20 or $30 or make a gallon that will last you years and years. I keep it in the shop in the small needle tip bottles used for head cement in fly tying. It doesn't react with whatever plastic that is...

Cement in Plastic Applicator Bottle

Discover Wapsi's Cement in Plastic Applicator Bottle at J. Stockard Fly Tying. Premium cement and coatings for precise fly tying. Shop now!

www.jsflyfishing.com

, and glass dauber bottles.
View attachment 8751762



If it's a gun I don't shoot often it gets waxed with Renaissance Wax.

I'm sure all these aerosol products work, but not any better than my stuff. Paint it on, wait a couple of minutes, wipe it off. One wet patch, wait a few minutes and follow it with few dry ones. Done, and completely clean.

Only thing it won't do is copper fouling...then Sweets 7.62 for me.

 

[StephenShivers]

I 180deg off all these guys. The old ways are the best ways. Not "safe" or wonderful to breathe acetone, but cleans down to the metal in one pass. Not safe to drink or bathe in either. I just want it to work and shorten or eliminate the time spent scrubbing, then protect it till the next time I'm shooting. All I've used all my life, and I can't sleep at night if my guns aren't completely clean. I'll lie awake thinking about it.

My recipe for Ed's Red:
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits,
1 part Acetone
1 part Kroil
1 part anhydrous Lanolin

I don't even know how many years ago I made the last batch, but there is still like a half gallon left and I shoot all the time. One batch will last years and years, but you have to keep it sealed because the acetone is a super-volatile and will evaporate. Most of this stuff is probably already in your garage, and you just have to measure it out.

I DO NOT use it on plastic fantastic parts, as I know it cuts wad residue in shotguns, so probably melts most plastic. The most expensive thing in it is probably the Kroil. You can buy a can of whatever for $20 or $30 or make a gallon that will last you years and years. I keep it in the shop in the small needle tip bottles used for head cement in fly tying. It doesn't react with whatever plastic that is...

Cement in Plastic Applicator Bottle

Discover Wapsi's Cement in Plastic Applicator Bottle at J. Stockard Fly Tying. Premium cement and coatings for precise fly tying. Shop now!

www.jsflyfishing.com

, and glass dauber bottles.
View attachment 8751762



If it's a gun I don't shoot often it gets waxed with Renaissance Wax.

I'm sure all these aerosol products work, but not any better than my stuff. Paint it on, wait a couple of minutes, wipe it off. One wet patch, wait a few minutes and follow it with few dry ones. Done, and completely clean.

Only thing it won't do is copper fouling...then Sweets 7.62 for me.

I got cancer just reading this. . Joking. Sounds like a badass home brew.

 

[Fig]

Simple, easy, and works better than anything product you can buy.

I have no idea what's in Automatic Transmission Fluid, but it also works as an amazing hack when sweating copper pipes. Just dampen a rag with ATF, and before you put the fitting on wipe the ends of the pipes and the fitting with the damp rag, it cleans it, and for some reason you don't need any flux. The solder seeps in an makes a perfect weld every time. Duhno why it works, but it does.

 

[mr_fullmetal]

Semi Autos - Slip2000 / CLP
Bolt - Boretech and Iosso
Handgun - Slip2000

Everything - CLP

 

[oldrifleman]

I use Boretech Eliminator.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Should I covert to nylon brushes if using Bore tech, since the solvent will attack the bronze - right?

 

[oldrifleman]

To me brushes are consumable items. I use nylon unless I encounter a stubborn deposit. I use Boretech products. If I need to use a brass brush I use it and consider it a one time item.

 

[hafejd30]

Should I covert to nylon brushes if using Bore tech, since the solvent will attack the bronze - right?

I use nylon and it does well. You’ll need a proof positive jag and brush. Boretech has both as well

Or yes it will continue to come out blue

 

[Fig]

Should I covert to nylon brushes if using Bore tech, since the solvent will attack the bronze - right?

If it's just solvent it won't matter. If it dissolves copper it will dissolve brass (2/3 copper 1/3 zinc).

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Thanks!

 

[carbonbased]

Gave up the eternal quest for finding the perfect cleaning chemical(s) once I found @Frank Green ’s cleaning advice (attached). He owns Bartlein Barrels, which are some of the best barrels in the biz.

I prioritize speed/efficiency and I HATE cleaning.

Cleaning TL;DR, my version​

• Keep track of rounds down the pipe. Helps you gauge when to deep clean.
• Wear nitrile gloves
• Use a bore guide. Possum Hollow bore guides can be made with a custom integrated solvent port (call). PMA Tool makes a different style that some like.
• Clean after each shoot. Makes (cleaning) life easier, long-term.
• Follow Frank’s advice. I do his “slow” version (Hoppes #9 overnight). Read that whole thread.
• Every so often (300+ rounds) use a mild abrasive for carbon rings and/or the bore as per Frank: Remington 40x or blue jar JB (not red!)*. 40x is very mild and doesn’t really work great for me, but that’s probably just me.

Bonus:​

• Record what patch/jag combo works. The less I have to think, the easier cleaning is.
• Buy a cheap bore scope for carbon ring identification
• Don’t run the joint between jag and the rod over the crown**
• In service to the point above, Proshot jags are the longest I’ve found and thus make it easiest to not overshoot
• This thing is handy to catch spent patches, or do it over a garbage can
• Instead of the Parker Hale type jags that Frank likes (Proshot & Dewey make them; I’m sure others do too), I stumbled upon the Montana Extreme’s spear-point version. Way faster to use as you don’t have to custom cut and carefully wrap a patch around the jag.
• I first push a few Proshot spear jag patch’s through to loosen up the crud, then push the Montana Extreme back and forth (not out the crown). Btw their 17cal & 20cal jags fit the 17cal Proshot rod perfectly.
• VFG pellets and the Proshot VFG jag can complement (or replace) regular jags/patches (incl. Montana’s). Leaning this way now.
• Twirling an oversized pellet in the chamber (see this link) significantly reduced my time scrubbing carbon rings. Frank generally avoids the use of a brush (but not always). This way I don’t need a brush and it’s way faster, for me.
• I might buy some Montana Extreme rods, as I’m “cleaning rod curious”

* For some reason Frank doesn’t mention JB in the attachment, but he mentions it often in his deep-clean/carbon ring posts.

** Stop the patch just past the crown and jiggle to help the patch fall off. I use some stiff tape or a Proshot rod-stop on the back of the rod as a stopping aid. I actually sand the interface to make the joint smooth (600+ grit) in case I overshoot. The point here is I don’t waste time unscrewing the jag for each pass.

Other good threads:

Rifle Competition Events - Cleaning for Competitions

Everyone and their mother has a different cleaning regime. Different products, different process and different definitions of what cleaning is. For many years my cleaning process for precision rifles has been follow boretech instructions. Maybe do a cycle or 2. Gun shoots well again and is...

www.snipershide.com

Gunsmithing - Objective research on Barrel Break-in procedures

After many email requests I thought I'd repost the research I did on barrel break-in procedures. In addition I also added a short overview on Internal Ballistics 101 to help tie everything together. This has been posted on many shooting boards over the years and has been modified as I uncover...

www.snipershide.com

Link directly above has some cleaning advice too

 

[Ledzep]

Bore cleaner- Bore Tech Eliminator
Lubricate- ALG (oil) and Automattenfett (grease)