Gunsmithing What are you guys using now days to clean and lube?

Bore Tech Rim Fire Blend, C4 Carbon Remover and Cu+2 Copper Remover
For Bolt lube, I just switched from Lucas Red N Tacky to the X-TRA Heavy Duty
For pistol Lube, CLP FP-10, like Hoppies it doubles as cologne

I use STP Oil Treatment to lube the rams on my presses going to try it on bolts and lugs next time I clean. I think it might be a little thick for hand guns but going to try it on them as well this winter.
 
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My cleaning is some of my own and modified from a some posts from Frank Green from Bartlein barrels.

I take the brushes out of a boresnake, and I use that at the range to just lay a film of #9 in the barrel (mostly because I can just use one for basically every caliber without the brushes). I figure this just gets some cleaning started, and if I don't clean it the same day I don't care.

For cleaning I use BoreTech carbon followed by their copper solvent Boretech rods and proof positive jags. clean/dry patching between switching. I pretty much only use jag/patches. If there's some carbon buildup I'll use a bore mop soaked with Boretech carbon for awhile. (not too long Frank from Bartlien made a post some time ago that they've seen pitting from users with Boretech, probably from leaving it in too long since it's mostly water based). After that (again nod to Frank) I'll do a few passes with Remington 40x bore cleaner. Patch it out, really well. (I've found that if you go down a rod size and use 2 patches you get a nice really tight fit, IE in a .308 I'll use a 6.5 rod with two 6.5 patches). I also use RamRodz swabs for the chamber/throat, same process but usually just carbon cleaner.

After that I run a patch of #9 down the barrel for storage, I'll patch it out before heading to the range.

That said, after I finish my old bottle of #9 I'll probably change to something else for storage. They've changed the formula of #9 a couple times the last few years, and from what I can see from the MSDS sheets the last couple versions do not have an obvious protectant in it anymore. There's a post about it somewhere on the hide. So I'm not sure I'd leave the new stuff in the barrel long term (but it also might be totally fine). So I'll probably just go to an oil/CLP.

For lube I've tried dozens, for the most part they all work pretty well as long as you use them and use enough and in the right areas. I like the Slip extreme weapons lube and grease. The grease is thin and seems to stay put. The lucas oil stuff seems pretty good as well. I run my range guns fairly heavily lubed just because I no longer live in the desert and can get away with it.

Tips:
  • I bought needle HDPE bottles to use with lube/solvent etc. it makes it last 10x longer and you get it where you want it and how much you want.
  • I also use acid brushes with the bristles cut back to about 1/2" it works really well for getting an even thin coat of oil and/or grease on rails, slides etc. without making a mess or getting way too much on.
 
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🙄 you’re worried about petroleum based products? You know there’s 1000 ways to die right? And you don’t to ick your death unless doing it yourself. But that worried? They make these things called nitrile gloves? They work
As someone that works with chemicals all day long, there is more than skin exposure. Im just trying to limit the exposure to my family, thats all. Im not a I wanna live forever guy, but I also dont want to kick the bucket over firearm maintenance.

There are products that work just as good that are significantly less harmful to us, this can be said for many chemicals we use in life. Not just here.

Thats all bud, just looking to cut back on exposure.
 
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As someone that works with chemicals all day long, there is more than skin exposure. Im just trying to limit the exposure to my family, thats all. Im not a I wanna live forever guy, but I also dont want to kick the bucket over firearm maintenance.

There are products that work just as good that are significantly less harmful to us, this can be said for many chemicals we use in life. Not just here.

Thats all bud, just looking to cut back on exposure.
Understood. However I don’t know anyone that has died by cleaning firearms lol. Unless of course they were shot by said firearm lol

I do have specific firearms cleaning products. I just made this as it lasts longer. And I’ll outlive having to buy another bottle.
 
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Understood. However I don’t know anyone that has died by cleaning firearms lol. Unless of course they were shot by said firearm lol

I do have specific firearms cleaning products. I just made this as it lasts longer. And I’ll outlive having to buy another bottle.
Fully respect it. Im exposed to so many things, and then in daily life it gets longer. None of it is good. Even just lawn care, there's ton of stuff, daily house hold cleaning etc.
 
Understood. However I don’t know anyone that has died by cleaning firearms lol. Unless of course they were shot by said firearm lol

Fully respect it. Im exposed to so many things, and then in daily life it gets longer. None of it is good. Even just lawn care, there's ton of stuff, daily house hold cleaning etc.
Man I’ve washed my hands with varsol, gasoline, gotten oil on my hands during oil changes, mixing cement and had it on my hands, used acetone on my hands and I’m fine. Same as my old man. He’s 77 so I’m not worried about that. But by all means you do what you feel safe with
 
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Gave up the eternal quest for finding the perfect cleaning chemical(s) once I found @Frank Green ’s cleaning advice (attached). He owns Bartlein Barrels, which are some of the best barrels in the biz.

I prioritize speed/efficiency and I HATE cleaning.

Cleaning TL;DR, my version​

  • Keep track of rounds down the pipe. Helps you gauge when to deep clean.
  • Wear nitrile gloves
  • Use a bore guide. Possum Hollow bore guides can be made with a custom integrated solvent port (call). PMA Tool makes a different style that some like.
  • Clean after each shoot. Makes (cleaning) life easier, long-term.
  • Follow Frank’s advice. I do his “slow” version (Hoppes #9 overnight). Read that whole thread.
  • Every so often (300+ rounds) use a mild abrasive for carbon rings and/or the bore as per Frank: Remington 40x or blue jar JB (not red!)*. 40x is very mild and doesn’t really work great for me, but that’s probably just me.

Bonus:​

  • Record what patch/jag combo works. The less I have to think, the easier cleaning is.
  • Buy a cheap bore scope for carbon ring identification
  • Don’t run the joint between jag and the rod over the crown**
  • In service to the point above, Proshot jags are the longest I’ve found and thus make it easiest to not overshoot
  • This thing is handy to catch spent patches, or do it over a garbage can
  • Instead of the Parker Hale type jags that Frank likes (Proshot & Dewey make them; I’m sure others do too), I stumbled upon the Montana Extreme’s spear-point version. Way faster to use as you don’t have to custom cut and carefully wrap a patch around the jag.
  • I first push through a few Proshot spear jag patches to loosen up the crud, then push the Montana Extreme back and forth (not out the crown). Btw their 17cal & 20cal jags fit the 17cal Proshot rod perfectly.
  • VFG pellets and the Proshot VFG jag can complement (or replace) regular jags/patches (incl. Montana’s). Leaning this way now.
  • Twirling an oversized pellet in the chamber (see this link) significantly reduced my time scrubbing carbon rings. Frank generally avoids the use of a brush (but not always). This way I don’t need a brush and it’s way faster, for me.
  • I might buy some Montana Extreme rods, as I’m “cleaning rod curious”

* For some reason Frank doesn’t mention JB in the attachment, but he mentions it often in his deep-clean/carbon ring posts.

** Stop the patch just past the crown and jiggle to help the patch fall off. I use some stiff tape or a Proshot rod-stop on the back of the rod as a stopping aid. I actually sand the interface to make the joint smooth (600+ grit) in case I overshoot. The point here is I don’t waste time unscrewing the jag for each pass.

Other good threads:

Link directly above has some cleaning advice too
I too changed my cleaning interval after reading some of @Frank Green posts.

Instead of…eh, about 300 or more rounds (and yes, I always have kept a round count log on my rifles) I now clean after each range trip.

I use BT products and cleaning that day or the next after a 40-60 round range trip has made cleaning very quick and easy. It sounds like more of a chore but it just come clean so much faster and easier than baking that carbon on.

Now I’ve been in multi-day clinics w lots of shooting and no…I don’t clean at nights while there….put 200 rounds or so down the barrel and I just clean when I get home. I imagine this is like what people do at a multi-day comp…just clean when home again. Note: I’m don’t compete so take what I say on that w a grain of salt

I do follow pretty much his exact routine on using abrasives w a Parker Hale style jag.

For lube on bolt lugs, and very occasionally the primary extraction cam, I use a small amount of synthetic bearing grease. IMO, the bolt is not a demanding environment for a lube. To me it’s the same as lubing my OU shotguns.

As for wiping down the bolt body…it’s not something I really worry about and almost any thin oil/protectant will do. Anything for a bit of Rem oil on a rag to a spray of BC Barricade.

Cheers
 
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Am I the only one who uses Hornady One Shot in a bolt gun?
Probably not, but it depends on which one. If I remember right someone did an extensive review of anti-corrosion products and One Shot was one they tested and it beat the vast majority of products. Some great info here, there's a lot of info on how they reduce friction, attacks other materials like plastics, etc. If I remember right overall One Shot, and WD40 Specialist both did pretty much amazing in corrosion test, but the WD40 had a strong odor and did not lube well. Most of the popular products didn't last 24 hours in testing, but after 168 hours only 3 were left. However, it was not the case prep but their gun cleaner/lube. I only wished they sold it in a liquid form as well instead of just spray.


Project Farm has also done some gun lube tests, I really like the Project Farm stuff, over the years my personal experience often aligns with his testing, for example his recent testing that Mobile 1 oil is not as good as it used to be, or that many people think. Granted I don't always agree with his testing methods or perhaps more accurately his testing methods don't always align with my use case.

He recently did some CLP tests, where some of the ones I often hear are most well regarded did not do well. I do like though that he breaks down not just wear resistance but dust attraction, corrosion resistance, cleaning ability, and performance in cold weather and gives overall comparison charts so you can pick what works best for you, for example if you don't care about cold weather you can look at products that did better in the other categories etc. Spoiler: Break Free and Ballistol's corrosion resistance was poor compared to some others. Even my fav Slip 2000 EWL only did a bit better than mid pack.



That said, clearly a wide variety of products that may not test "great" still seem to work really well for folks, so again it seems to go back to if you're not using your gear in extreme environments, and you clean/lube it well, you'll probably be fine with most products.

Aside: I know we all love to hate it, but in both the testings above, Frog Lube actually tested very well in a wide variety of tests.
 
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Frog Lube actually tested very well in a wide variety of tests.
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Simple, easy, and works better than anything product you can buy.

I have no idea what's in Automatic Transmission Fluid, but it also works as an amazing hack when sweating copper pipes. Just dampen a rag with ATF, and before you put the fitting on wipe the ends of the pipes and the fitting with the damp rag, it cleans it, and for some reason you don't need any flux. The solder seeps in an makes a perfect weld every time. Duhno why it works, but it does.
ATF is a corrosion inhibitor not a cleaner. It's great at keeping parts from corroding and stuff from sticking to it, but it sucks at attacking carbon. It's used as a part of eds red for that reason but it's a gun lube not a cleaner. You generally need something with ammonia and/or acid to start eating into hard carbon and breaking it up.
 
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Bullshit…..IME.
You don't shoot enough or have enough experience for anyone to care.

I can run 20 cycles of boretech eliminator down a barrel after a match with a fresh, oversized brass brush and it barely changes color of patch after a few. Switch to sweets and first patch through every cycle is completely black. Borescope doesn't lie. Even a long CLR soak is only going to do so much. Then every time you shoot you are adding to that layer.

Now it's debatable how much (or less) effective a gun shoots being completely stripped vs minimally fouled, but boretech is way too mild to get after baked on hard carbon which is in most barrels shot by guys who shoot alot between cleanings.

Every single high level shooter I talk to about this says the same thing. Most use abrasives and clean everyday of the match.

Or you can just continue to stay ignorant. Your choice.
 
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I’ve used bore tech eliminator on all my rifles including my Fclass 284. I clean after each day. With sighters it’s anywhere from 60-80 rounds typically on a day. I’ve always had good luck with it. I let it soak 10 minutes after running a wet brush through the bore

Same goes for the c4 on rimfire carbon rings. Let it soak for a while and it’s always worked good

If you need something harsher than yes boretech isn’t it. But for the majority of shooters out there it works well. And yes I’ve bore scoped my barrels afterwards.

Similar responses in this thread from last year
 
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You don't shoot enough or have enough experience for anyone to care.
Good to see you are consistent…..consistently the most arrogant asshole I’ve ever run across on any forum.

“Oooh, I compete so my words are pure gold!”

Bet this isn’t your comm style face to face at work or in your daily life.
 
It's hilarious people think boretech is effective because patches come out clean.

Then you borescope the tube and see about 10-15 inches of hard carbon from the chamber.

Take your "clean" barrel and use a real solvent with mechanical scrubbing and all of a sudden patch looks like you ran it through a coal miners ass crack.

Ignorance is bliss.
 
Just be sure you know how to handle if you select those with ammonia in them like Butches.

seen more than a few people give their rifle a good scrub down before putting it away for the season and not get it all out and have a nasty surprise waiting for them
 
You don't shoot enough or have enough experience for anyone to care.

I can run 20 cycles of boretech eliminator down a barrel after a match with a fresh, oversized brass brush and it barely changes color of patch after a few. Switch to sweets and first patch through every cycle is completely black. Borescope doesn't lie. Even a long CLR soak is only going to do so much. Then every time you shoot you are adding to that layer.

Now it's debatable how much (or less) effective a gun shoots being completely stripped vs minimally fouled, but boretech is way too mild to get after baked on hard carbon which is in most barrels shot by guys who shoot alot between cleanings.

Every single high level shooter I talk to about this says the same thing. Most use abrasives and clean everyday of the match.

Or you can just continue to stay ignorant. Your choice.

Jesus dude did you shit before dismounting, again?

On point, lately I have seen what you are referring to in my 6.5 CM using C4. I have tried soaking for an hour, brushing (nylon) to no avail. It appears to be causing pressure/velocity increases as I shoot from clean. Trying to decide what to do next.

If you could stop flinging crap for a minute …… 🐒
 
He called bullshit on my post so he got told like it is. Sorry if it ruffles his pussy lips. Too much noise not enough signal in this thread anyway.

-Switch from Nylon to Brass brushes and go one size up.
-Buy them in BULK (amazon has 15/20 packs of pro shot brushes), they get worn after a cleaning or two. You can feel the change in resistance and need to replace them when they do
- Use a stronger solvent like Montana or Sweets 7.62.
- Run a few ISO alcohol patches down the bore and chamber to neutralize any acid or ammonia still in barrel. This will keep it from doing weird shit or growing crystals in storage.
-You will drive yourself mad trying to get to bare metal. Unless you are cleaning every 50 shots or less and scrubbing the shit out of it, you are going to be building layer ontop of layer. I do about 5 or 6 cycles of the above and get a ton of carbon out. Eventually, good enough is good enough. It should only take about 5 shots to be back to POI/POA as well as velocity stability.
-6mm barrels get pulled at 2k and 6.5CM at 2.5 no matter how well they still shoot.

You will be amazed how much more carbon you pull out of your barrels. I used to see pressure slowly raise over the life of a barrel and then it would just stop shooting. Now I get pretty much the same velocity across entire barrel life before it gets pulled.

Most people "think" they are cleaning their barrels but really have no idea what is happening.

We dont clean for the sake of cleaning. We clean so we have predictable shots for XXX amount of shots. I need a barrel to go 300 rounds holding about a tenth before cleaning so this is what has proven to work the most consistent for me. A guy shooting benchrest of F class has different accuracy and round count requirements. They shoot much less and have a ton of time to clean , re foul as well as get sighter shots. A sniper who needs to know exactly where his cold bore shot is after not firing the gun for 3 weeks has different requirements, ect ect.

I am going to give the Barnes stuff a try next. Have heard good things and they actually have a SDS to give you an idea whats in it:
 
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I see a trend here for Boretech stuff lol. Isnt it touted as safer or better overall?
Its the new flavor of the month.

I find that MPro7 does a better job at carbon removal and its cheaper than Boretech.

For hard carbon and copper removal, ThorroClean.

For lube, Lucas until I find something better.
 
Man I’ve washed my hands with varsol, gasoline, gotten oil on my hands during oil changes, mixing cement and had it on my hands, used acetone on my hands and I’m fine. Same as my old man. He’s 77 so I’m not worried about that. But by all means you do what you feel safe with
You like that lime burn from the hand mixing, eh?

Ever read about people who worked at dry cleaners using CCl4 and developing leukemia-like blood disorders?

Those nastier carcinogens, like benzene, don't give you warning when they are screwing up your system, you just get a weird health checkup one day and then the end is near. But I hear you and I have washed in varsol, kerosene, paint thinner/mineral spirits, gasoline to rid my hands of crap from working on cars/engines. Don't like thinking back on it though.
 
Before I had a bore scope.
One season using Boretech C4 and Eliminator with bronze brushes, 1000 rounds on a 30 BR Kreiger.

After match, swab, brush, swab with C4. Soak for 24-36hrs.
Repeat same routine with Eliminator. Patches said bore was clean, patches lied. Result.

IMG_4504.jpeg


Threw the kitchen sink of cleaning products at this mess over several days, finally resorted to Iosso to get it back to bare metal.

Had a barrel that saw virtually nothing but Wipeout bore cleaner and nylon brushes, it was in even worse shape.

Best solvent I’ve used for short term cleaning is Montana Extreme Copper Killer. Use it between relays, and immediately after match. When I get home I break out the Thorroclean, 30-50 short strokes with a tight fitting patch from just in front of the leade to a couple inches down the bore where the heavy carbon is. Flush the Thorroclean out, dry patch until clean patches come out. Borescope to verify cleanliness.
Soak a patch with Lock Ease and work it aggressively with short strokes back and forth down the bore. First 3 out of a clean bore recently at a 100yds. Generally my first 3 foulers are a ragged hole.
IMG_4727.jpeg
 
You like that lime burn from the hand mixing, eh?

Ever read about people who worked at dry cleaners using CCl4 and developing leukemia-like blood disorders?

Those nastier carcinogens, like benzene, don't give you warning when they are screwing up your system, you just get a weird health checkup one day and then the end is near. But I hear you and I have washed in varsol, kerosene, paint thinner/mineral spirits, gasoline to rid my hands of crap from working on cars/engines. Don't like thinking back on it though.
In 100yrs from now it’ll be something else ppl die of. Death is inevitable. And nothing you can do to overcome that. You’re not gonna say if I hadn’t washed my hands in (insert harsh chemical) I’d still be healthy when you’re in your late 70s/80s lol
 
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Probably because there's many ways to skin a cat, and it suggests that for many shooters having a rifle that's possibly not "clean to the metal" isn't impacting their guns performance enough to matter (to them), or question if something is wrong with their rifles. Given the hide probably has a large concentration of guys that can shoot with precision gear (granted not in the benchrest world level) it would suggest that for the majority of hide users, most cleaning practices.......are working pretty well. It's kind of like lubes, you'll see guys swear by 50 different lubes which again says to me that as long as you use it, and apply it right, it's probably going to work fine. Even though some might work better than others, it's not enough to make enough difference for most people to notice, and it's certainly not ruining guns. If it was, over the years everyone would be using the same stuff, because everything else would ruin stuff.

If you watch Frank Green and Eric C's podcast they talk about cleaning, and they both use very different methods (everyone should the info in there is gold). Frank's seems to be much less harsh (#9, 40x, no brushes, etc.) and Eric is clearly using some harsher stuff like CLR, Lasso etc. Those methods are pretty heavily at opposite ends of the spectrum, but both are clearly getting good results without barrel damage. They also both clearly are not in the camp of not cleaning the barrels for long periods of time. For awhile I think we often heard so much stuff about how overcleaning kills barrels, that we've made a whole group of shooters that never clean them, or use nothing but a bore snake. Both of them clearly are not in the camp of shooting till the accuracy falls off, because by that time there's so much junk in the barrel, you either have to use drastic measures to get it out, or when you do clean it, the gun will only shoot really well for 20-30 rounds and drops off again cause it's still 95% too fowled to perform when you started and those 20-30 rounds are all it takes to push it too far again.

The other thing is in 2025 when you can get a bore scope that will show you everything in your barrel for $100 or less there's no reason not to own one. We're spending $1000 on bipods, $4000 on optics, thousands on a rifle, $1000 on barrels and $600 on chronos the list goes on, but not $100 on a tool that will really tell you what is going on inside your barrel.

 
Probably because there's many ways to skin a cat, and it suggests that for many shooters having a rifle that's possibly not "clean to the metal" isn't impacting their guns performance enough to matter (to them), or question if something is wrong with their rifles. Given the hide probably has a large concentration of guys that can shoot with precision gear (granted not in the benchrest world level) it would suggest that for the majority of hide users, most cleaning practices.......are working pretty well. It's kind of like lubes, you'll see guys swear by 50 different lubes which again says to me that as long as you use it, and apply it right, it's probably going to work fine. Even though some might work better than others, it's not enough to make enough difference for most people to notice, and it's certainly not ruining guns. If it was, over the years everyone would be using the same stuff, because everything else would ruin stuff.

If you watch Frank Green and Eric C's podcast they talk about cleaning, and they both use very different methods (everyone should the info in there is gold). Frank's seems to be much less harsh (#9, 40x, no brushes, etc.) and Eric is clearly using some harsher stuff like CLR, Lasso etc. Those methods are pretty heavily at opposite ends of the spectrum, but both are clearly getting good results without barrel damage. They also both clearly are not in the camp of not cleaning the barrels for long periods of time. For awhile I think we often heard so much stuff about how overcleaning kills barrels, that we've made a whole group of shooters that never clean them, or use nothing but a bore snake. Both of them clearly are not in the camp of shooting till the accuracy falls off, because by that time there's so much junk in the barrel, you either have to use drastic measures to get it out, or when you do clean it, the gun will only shoot really well for 20-30 rounds and drops off again cause it's still 95% too fowled to perform when you started and those 20-30 rounds are all it takes to push it too far again.

The other thing is in 2025 when you can get a bore scope that will show you everything in your barrel for $100 or less there's no reason not to own one. We're spending $1000 on bipods, $4000 on optics, thousands on a rifle, $1000 on barrels and $600 on chronos the list goes on, but not $100 on a tool that will really tell you what is going on inside your barrel.


Interesting take. Appreciate the dialog. Will watch that video later on.

any suggestions on a borescope? I never grabbed one because it seems like Hawkeye was the goto but expensive...
 
Probably because there's many ways to skin a cat, and it suggests that for many shooters having a rifle that's possibly not "clean to the metal" isn't impacting their guns performance enough to matter (to them), or question if something is wrong with their rifles. Given the hide probably has a large concentration of guys that can shoot with precision gear (granted not in the benchrest world level) it would suggest that for the majority of hide users, most cleaning practices.......are working pretty well. It's kind of like lubes, you'll see guys swear by 50 different lubes which again says to me that as long as you use it, and apply it right, it's probably going to work fine. Even though some might work better than others, it's not enough to make enough difference for most people to notice, and it's certainly not ruining guns. If it was, over the years everyone would be using the same stuff, because everything else would ruin stuff.

If you watch Frank Green and Eric C's podcast they talk about cleaning, and they both use very different methods (everyone should the info in there is gold). Frank's seems to be much less harsh (#9, 40x, no brushes, etc.) and Eric is clearly using some harsher stuff like CLR, Lasso etc. Those methods are pretty heavily at opposite ends of the spectrum, but both are clearly getting good results without barrel damage. They also both clearly are not in the camp of not cleaning the barrels for long periods of time. For awhile I think we often heard so much stuff about how overcleaning kills barrels, that we've made a whole group of shooters that never clean them, or use nothing but a bore snake. Both of them clearly are not in the camp of shooting till the accuracy falls off, because by that time there's so much junk in the barrel, you either have to use drastic measures to get it out, or when you do clean it, the gun will only shoot really well for 20-30 rounds and drops off again cause it's still 95% too fowled to perform when you started and those 20-30 rounds are all it takes to push it too far again.

The other thing is in 2025 when you can get a bore scope that will show you everything in your barrel for $100 or less there's no reason not to own one. We're spending $1000 on bipods, $4000 on optics, thousands on a rifle, $1000 on barrels and $600 on chronos the list goes on, but not $100 on a tool that will really tell you what is going on inside your barrel.


Hey I know that guy! LOL!

Again guys there are 10 different ways to skin this cat. If you have a system/method you use and your getting the barrel cleaning/maintaining the system... then that doesn't mean the guy on the line next to you is doing it better. Could be doing it worse.

As long as your not wrecking the stick... I've got nothing to say.

Not cleaning at all though? That's not an option. You will get to a point and it's depending on caliber... where you get to a point of no return. You lose the accuracy due to carbon or copper fouling build up and or both... than a normal cleaning session isn't going to possibly bring it back. Why let it get to that point?

I commented about a month or two ago... we are rebuilding a local PD's rifles (not the guns with the messed barrel installs we've been fixing) and when they brought us the first group of 5 they asked if we could look at one rifle in particular. I said, "Sure. What's up? Most of the guns they told me shoot around 1-1.5moa. All of them had Obermeyer sticks on them. So I looked at the first one and said, "I don't see anything really wrong with it other than it needs a good cleaning." Also my comment to them was... I guessed the barrel had 1500 not more than 2500 rounds on it. I told them I'd bet any of them my next paycheck that if I cleaned it good the accuracy would come right back.

So I asked, "How and what are you guys cleaning with?" They said, and I quote... "We don't clean at all! We're not allowed to by the previous guy in charge. Only allowed to run a oiled patch down the bore if they got caught out in the rain." All I could do was shake my head!

So the barrels had been on the guns for a good 10 years + with no cleaning other than a oiled patch down the bore once in a while.

So we got into cleaning and the whole cold bore/accuracy stuff.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 
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