I used rust-oleum with the stone textured finish. just painted it on my boyds stock for a savage 22. I'm not sure how well this paint holds up but hopefully it will last a while.
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Rustoleum base, then a mix of rustoleum and krylon. Holds up OK. If it starts to wear, you really can't see it without looking for it. If it bothers you, hit it again. The bolt gun's barrel and action are not rattle can.
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Just finished this one up today.....4 colors of Cerakote
Just finished this one up today.....4 colors of Cerakote
Wow! That looks fantastic!
new .22, but still looks decent. All krylon.
new .22, but still looks decent. All krylon.
How did you do that?
Started off with a Boyds "Tacticool" stock. Sanded it with 320 grit sand paper and all the way up to 1k grit sandpaper. Prepped and cleaned off the wood and used some regular old Krylon primer. Primed it with gray 2 coats, and let dry for a day. Painted it with some Krylon Ultra-Flat Camo Green paint. I put on between 3-5 coats of the green or so. I let it dry quite a bit between coats over the span of a day. After paint was set and dry, the next day I sprayed it with Krylon Webbing paint. When you do the webbing paint, play with it first so you know what to expect or it'll get really thick and thin in places. I use REALLY fast motions with it and do it slowly with quick arm movements. After I go the webbing where I wanted it, I let it dry for a couple of hours or so, and come back in and flatten it on the stock with my hand. Rub off any extra webbing that may be there before clear coating it. After all is done, I clear it with Matte clear Krylon about 3-5 coats again. This is what I think the key of making the Krylon jobs look good. After they are all cleared, its really quite durable. I have a Savage 11 TH XP .308 that has held up under numerous hunting trips, and taken some hard knocks. I'll post up a before, during, and after pic, as well as the savage.
And the .22 before and after.
This was right after I was done with the webbing. Hadn't had a chance to clear it yet.
And all done with no optics on it yet.
And the .22 before and after.
This was right after I was done with the webbing. Hadn't had a chance to clear it yet.
And all done with no optics on it yet.
The clear coat really makes the green look nice and deep. Takes the color to a different place.
that looks great komishe ill have to try that.
krylon on my Ar. Just a few coats, so it is starting to wear through at the selector, mag well, charging handle, etc... Just the way I like it. 
Brand new, right out of the box.
Disassembled and thoroughly cleaned, base of automotive primer.
Base coat of Rustoleum flat khaki.
Base coat accents of Rustoleum flat sage, dry and reassembled.
Hand painted to mimic the sage brush camo shirts in the photos.
Disassembled and thoroughly cleaned, base of automotive primer.
Base coat of Rustoleum flat khaki.
Base coat accents of Rustoleum flat sage, dry and reassembled.
Hand painted to mimic the sage brush camo shirts in the photos.
OK, after about 800 rounds and countless rides in the truck and backpack during various hunting seasons and for protection detail at work, it was time to disassemble and clean the rig thoroughly. With the wear on the last paint job, I figured I would strip it and repaint while it was all apart.
Used Citristrip to remove the spray paint (what a mess, but worked great) and brake cleaner to get all the residue off.
Repainted with an American flag theme, but in camo colors to show my patriotism. The interior lighting does not do wonders for the actual colors, but you get the drift. I will try to get outdoor photos this weekend in the desert. It will not be everyone's "cup of tea", but should work fine in the field and look good on the range too.
Used Citristrip to remove the spray paint (what a mess, but worked great) and brake cleaner to get all the residue off.
Repainted with an American flag theme, but in camo colors to show my patriotism. The interior lighting does not do wonders for the actual colors, but you get the drift. I will try to get outdoor photos this weekend in the desert. It will not be everyone's "cup of tea", but should work fine in the field and look good on the range too.
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Just finished this one up today.....4 colors of Cerakote
Wow! how did you make the digital pattern with the cerakote? Also, did you have to cure each colour before moving on to the next? Looks amazing, I'm looking into making myself an oven so I can start cerakoting my firearms.
James
lancetkenyon, i wanted to do the very same scheme to a 700, thanks for posting yours IMO looks great, my mind is made up to do go ahead and do it.
krylon khaki, krylon od green, and ___________?
krylon khaki, krylon od green, and ___________?
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I used Rustoleum Camouflage: flat Khaki #1917, flat Deep Forest Green (OD)#1919 and flat Army Green (sage)#1920.
^ thanks
OK. Not our usual hunting area, but got a few photos during yesterday's scouting trip for javelina. This is my 11 year old daughter behind the gun.
Thanks James,
It's a pain and does take time but between coats you flash dry it for 15-20 minutes. High heat stencils from Bulldog were used.
Krylon for base coat,then broke out the sponges dipped in another shade of Krylon.
Edit: Barrel/action/bolt are Cerakoted Coyote Tan.
Edit: Barrel/action/bolt are Cerakoted Coyote Tan.
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Duracoat for mine
Back together with my scuffed up action. I need to blast and recoat it.
Back together with my scuffed up action. I need to blast and recoat it.
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Specialist, I'm in winston-Salem. U did that yourself? I like the skull pattern.
My newest stock I just did for a buddy. I have about 25-30 minutes into the whole thing.
Hadn't really thought about doing something like this in camo. this gives me some ideas to kick around until I get my stock cleaned up enough for painting.
Tag for later. RockPunk, your paint scheme looks good.
Brand new, right out of the box.
Disassembled and thoroughly cleaned, base of automotive primer.
Base coat of Rustoleum flat khaki.
Base coat accents of Rustoleum flat sage, dry and reassembled.
Hand painted to mimic the sage brush camo shirts in the photos.
That my friend is the finest hand painted sage that I have ever seen on a rifle. Great work. Bob Ross is smiling down I am sure.
Thanks ! Stupid easy to do really and cant screw it up.
Not a rifle but I used krylon on my mossberg 
Thank you. But alas, it is gone now after a thorough cleaning and repaint scheme. Probably do it again next time though. I liked it too.
AICS stock Kryloned with OD green, FDE, and black. Finished with a clear coat. Used stencils that I drew and cut out. Holding up very well.
Dura coated by usgunworks 30calsniper here on the hide
Dura coated by usgunworks 30calsniper here on the hide
Dura coated by usgunworks 30calsniper here on the hide
Dura coated by usgunworks 30calsniper here on the hide
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Krylon
Was just trying to get some green mixture on this savage before I head to the stand in a hour or two, when I get back think I will do some tiger stripes. All of it done with the Fusion brand krylon and Fusion Krylon gloss. I know its no beauty queen, but it actually came out okay for as fast as I did it. Used olive and dark army.
Tag for great ideas and advice.
I have rattle can'd my HS over eight times (from gap, needle, sponge, web), finally found something I really like.
The Rustoleum multicolor texture in desert bisque
It has a bit of texture for a good grip and has tiny flecks of black and white for contrast. Blends in nicely with my type of shooting, but not too tacti-tard.
Stuff drys enough to handle within a few hours, give it three days before you handle enough to fire.
Tips, the stuff has tiny particles, so prepare for overspray, it gets EVERYWHERE.
Looks like it goes on clear, but it builds up. So if you are covering a dark stock, might want to prime it first.
Do several passes and let dry in between. Again, it may not look like it is covering anything, but it firms up.
Be very careful with handling as it builds a small layer on your stock, you can dent it easily while it is drying.
Other than that, it is good to go, not shiny and will cover minor scratches or imperfections on your stock.
The Rustoleum multicolor texture in desert bisque
It has a bit of texture for a good grip and has tiny flecks of black and white for contrast. Blends in nicely with my type of shooting, but not too tacti-tard.
Stuff drys enough to handle within a few hours, give it three days before you handle enough to fire.
Tips, the stuff has tiny particles, so prepare for overspray, it gets EVERYWHERE.
Looks like it goes on clear, but it builds up. So if you are covering a dark stock, might want to prime it first.
Do several passes and let dry in between. Again, it may not look like it is covering anything, but it firms up.
Be very careful with handling as it builds a small layer on your stock, you can dent it easily while it is drying.
Other than that, it is good to go, not shiny and will cover minor scratches or imperfections on your stock.
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Duracoat and webbing in a spray can. Since it's the DIY forum, a couple of custm handguards as well.
What base color and webbing color did you get? I've seen several colors close to this, but really like your tan paint job. This looks great, awesome job, Nice hand guards too!
Awesome! Thanks. That woodland tan and black webbing sure does look nice. I'd bet a good white and black webbing would blend right in to a snowy environment. Maybe even incorporate straw like someone posted here too. This is a great thread!
How about water transfers? Anyone had decent results with that? Have a local guy here starting up and wants/needs the practice. Might let him dip a couple stocks for me.
It'll be as good as whatever type of clearcoat they put over it. Without a coat of clear to protect it, it'll wear so fast you'll be sick over the money you spent.
hey man i really like the look of your savage!!! looks like you duracoated the base but what did you use with the sponges??
When I re-painted this year, I used some art stuff called liquitex. Great variety of colors, many flats, good adherence. The only down side is that its freakin' expensive compared to Krylon. $11/can. 3 or 4 colors will have you in for $35-50
Still, cheaper than a cerakote job and the DIY angle, if that's what you are interested in.
Still, cheaper than a cerakote job and the DIY angle, if that's what you are interested in.
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I used rustoleum camo with Bulldog adhesion promoter. I did a sage green base. Then did some snake skin camo. Then did some grass pattern camo.
Then I did some matte clear. Thought it turned out pretty good
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I'm getting old. I just paint all my rifles with Tactical Black Duracoat and don't try to camouflage them any more. I'm afraid I'll set my rifle down while taking a whiz and not be able to find it
Only thing wrong about the Duracoat is that if you ever want to take it off, it's a bitch. The more you handle and shoot the rifle, the tougher that stuff gets.
Only thing wrong about the Duracoat is that if you ever want to take it off, it's a bitch. The more you handle and shoot the rifle, the tougher that stuff gets.
I used the rustolium camo paint. Khaki base then green stripes. Then sponged khaki, green and brown. Then 2 coats flat clear.
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mscott, Thanks for the tips...my Savage looks great.
Does that Matte Clearcoat or any other clear coat stand up to abuse and/or solvents?
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