What survival knife

Alphatreedog

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I was looking at a Shrade and realized it's made in China . So I think ok how about a Buck 120 ? I Ontario is made in N.Y. USA . Looking for a blaxe strong enough to hit on the spine to split wood , hold an edge and relatively capable of sharpening with an Arkansas Stone . I gotta say that the $99 to $149 range is attractive . What do you think ?
 
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Gustav7

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    I used to like the large and heavy tactical knives but the more bushcraft style pages I follow I’d prefer a handmade Bowie (improved) style knife, made out of a hard carbon steel. Of course that’s a big more money than that price range. I own a HELLE that i like but if it was a survival knife I’d want it bigger and heavier.

    Let’s be honest, I doubt you’d ever have just a knife on you. So this would be given I have a leather man and most likely a small axe of some sort
     

    G-Dog

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    Plenty of good options NOT made in China, don’t buy a Chinese knife. Period.

    Kershaw, CRKT, and Benchmade are worth a look. Some made overseas, some made in America. I have a mid sized fixed blade Benchmade with D2 tool that is *my* perfect survival knife. I like knives with blades less than 8”, otherwise I want a hatchet (or sword).
     

    quietmike

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    Terava jaripukko. They're not much to look at, but they perform well above their price point.
    They're the glock of knives.

     

    redneckbmxer24

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    In that price range ESEE is the way to go. the 4, 5, or 6 just depending on how big you want.

    Personally I'd spend a little more to get something really tough, and great design with great steel. Busse, Mercworx, and Strider are my go to's for fixed blades, but there are a lot of other really great knives too. Just stick with something hard use for customs and not something that's custom because it's pretty.
     

    thejeep

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    I fail to see the utility of the big knife. Folder, 5 inch fixed blade, short machete. The fixed blade larger than 5 inches just kind of seems impractical and the machete seems to chop better.
    If you really need to split woodJust build a bigger fire.
     
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    Hobo Hilton

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    Since none of us know just exactly when a "Survival Situation" could develop..... A good chance that the knife you carry 100% of the time will become your Survival Knife... You may not be able to call "Time Out" and run to the house to get your Survival Knife.

    Hobo
     

    thejeep

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    To skull fuck a motherfucker.
    After buying a reasonably priced folder,5 inch fixed blade , 18 inch Ontario machete ,bench grinder to put a good Swedge and point on machete , a used brick to sharpen the machete and a chipper I’d still come out ahead instead of buying a busse
     

    Alphatreedog

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    I used to like the large and heavy tactical knives but the more bushcraft style pages I follow I’d prefer a handmade Bowie (improved) style knife, made out of a hard carbon steel. Of course that’s a big more money than that price range. I own a HELLE that i like but if it was a survival knife I’d want it bigger and heavier.

    Let’s be honest, I doubt you’d ever have just a knife on you. So this would be given I have a leather man and most likely a small axe of some sort
    Yes . I do the EDC with an Emerson , carry a Gerber Center Drive and keep a small SOG lightweight hatchet on my pack . I also have a hand wire / cable saw . Right tool for the right job . I am at the point where I want multiple purpose built kits . Hiking , Bugout and Load Out . Been getting my head out of my ass on Chinese made anything and have to tell ya man it's hard . Blue Collar budget or as @TheGerman would say , Poor . The Schrade SCHF3N is a beautiful knife but it's Chinese .
     
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    TACC

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    How about a Gerber lmf

    I prefer these over my Ka Bar

    A little more stout than an ESEE, or Ontario knife company
     

    W54/XM-388

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    Buy something made by Dawson Knives

    Beautiful pieces that can hold up to very serious hard survival usage.
     

    7.62OSKL

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    New here but as thought I would throw my $.02 in as a knife collector for way more years than I care to remember. Two of my sub $100 favorites sheath knifes are the OKC Rat-7 and Rtak 2, both full tang and made with 1095 High Carbon steel (can sharpen real well) The scales are canvas micarta, tougher than an anvil and good grip. The Rtak is a handful but if you need a big, sturdy camp knife you can beat the hell out of, they have never let me down. For folding and EDC, an old school Benchmade AFCK (wish they still made them) that has been put in a back up position to the Cold Steel Recon 1 Tanto (sub $100) I currently carry.
     
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    pmclaine

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    Carried KaBar in service and on plenty of camping trips, handy, beat the crap out of it but kind of a sword.

    Really became an ass ache when I started going into the woods in a UTV was always in the way.

    Bought a Tops Brothers of Bushcraft....


    Much more manageable size, good enough blade, I prefer carbon steel, with a scandanavian "dangler" sheath its never in the way.

    but....

    I hate the coatings Tops uses on their knives. Sure the coating protects the carbon from rusting but I take care of my knives, rust isnt an issue. Id prefer the option to spark steel with the knife spine.

    Ended up buying a Randall Fireman Knife.

    1588503758969.png

    Thing is stupid overbuilt. You will break your baton before you damage this knife. At 4.5 inches or so the blade is as short as Id go, its very controllable for fine work at that size.

    Really liking some of the knives Survive! knife is putting out. They have a folder design in the works that looks like I want one.
     

    Goes-Bang

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    "Really liking some of the knives Survive! knife is putting out. They have a folder design in the works that looks like I want one."

    No. Just no. Don't buy a Survive! knife. Super sketchy company. Caveat Emptor. (I wish I had done more research before falling into that trap.)
     

    pmclaine

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    "Really liking some of the knives Survive! knife is putting out. They have a folder design in the works that looks like I want one."

    No. Just no. Don't buy a Survive! knife. Super sketchy company. Caveat Emptor. (I wish I had done more research before falling into that trap.)

    I like your comms but what is it based on?
     
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    Downtown

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    Anyone remember a classic "fighting knife" thread with Veer? Can't remember who started it, perhaps our brewer friend, Magnus Boner. Anyway, a classic thread I was reminded of.
     
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    Goes-Bang

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    A dive down into any of the knife forums a google search will get you, will likely tell the tale.
     

    sandwarrior

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    Carried KaBar in service and on plenty of camping trips, handy, beat the crap out of it but kind of a sword.

    Really became an ass ache when I started going into the woods in a UTV was always in the way.

    Bought a Tops Brothers of Bushcraft....


    Much more manageable size, good enough blade, I prefer carbon steel, with a scandanavian "dangler" sheath its never in the way.

    but....

    I hate the coatings Tops uses on their knives. Sure the coating protects the carbon from rusting but I take care of my knives, rust isnt an issue. Id prefer the option to spark steel with the knife spine.

    Ended up buying a Randall Fireman Knife.

    View attachment 7315576

    Thing is stupid overbuilt. You will break your baton before you damage this knife. At 4.5 inches or so the blade is as short as Id go, its very controllable for fine work at that size.

    Really liking some of the knives Survive! knife is putting out. They have a folder design in the works that looks like I want one.
    You FUCKIN' STUD!

    I'd love a Randall but have never needed one that bad for the price you can get them for. Or, the long wait to get one. Randall isn't really out of price range, it's out of wait range. But, if you want one now...

    Nice knife pmc.
     

    pmclaine

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    You FUCKIN' STUD!

    I'd love a Randall but have never needed one that bad for the price you can get them for. Or, the long wait to get one. Randall isn't really out of price range, it's out of wait range. But, if you want one now...

    Nice knife pmc.

    Got mine on Ebay. Guy on there has bunch of them. Ask him to deal a little bit his price comes down.
     

    hlee

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    After buying a reasonably priced folder,5 inch fixed blade , 18 inch Ontario machete ,bench grinder to put a good Swedge and point on machete , a used brick to sharpen the machete and a chipper I’d still come out ahead instead of buying a busse
    “Go be poor somewhere else”- The German
    Whats a knife forum?
    Its a lot like a precision rifle forum, but instead of “should I mrad or moa” you get a lot more “convex or Scandinavian grind...”
     

    hlee

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    What are thoughts on like Tacoma field knife... seems like grip is really good and a Thick blade
    How thick? Thick? Or Thicc? Do you need a thick blade? On our last camping trip I beat a Mora through dry mesquite for kindling. Okay, it’s their companion, so a more robust blade, but still shy of 1/8” thick.
     

    Remington_Steel

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    The tops bob can be had is 154cm which is an amazing steel. Easy to sharpen, holds an edge. It even polished super well. It’s available in bare 1095 also. Its not a knife you can complain about.

    O’Neal knives are simple perfection.

    the Gough are very sexy looking.

    Randall Fireman, to beautiful to use.

    Im 5”10, carrying anything over 5.5 doesn’t ever feel appropriate. I can’t comment on the Tahoma field knife. I’ve had it in my hands. Too much to carry. With that said I own 40 tops knives.

    Call me what you want. 🐍
     
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    River Runner

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    I make knives, so I'm fairly knowledgeable on their construction. 1095 is a great steel for what you're looking for. So is 1080, D2 and lots of others. I really like CPM-3V. It's super tough, can be sharpened without special equipment and the vanadium carbides make it hold an edge very well. Whatever you get, get it from a reputable maker; lots are listed above. In your price range you can find a great selection of commercial makers. Proper heat treating is at least as important as the steel, and the good makers will adjust the heat treating to fit the knife's intended use. As has been said, Chinese steel is mostly crap. Don't trust anything they advertise.

    There is no perfect knife for all situations. Either compromise or get more than 1, which I highly recommend.
     

    pmclaine

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    Good to know.

    Sent them an email email yesterday after making my post commenting positively on their products asking when the folders would come available.

    Il be interested to see if they answer but Ill buy more ammo before I buy one of their knives.
     

    Strykervet

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    Daniel Winkler serrated "Spike" w/G10 sculpted grips and skull/glass breaker. Shaving sharp and tough as hell. The scabbard is really nice too. I forget how much I paid, I got a deal on it, but I think they're in the $400 range. Before I'd only owned $100-ish knives, a KaBar, etc. This thing is a serious tool. I'd love one of his tomahawks, I'm just not sure I'd get the use vs. cost for that though, so I'll have to stick with the factory second SOG I got at their factory store N. of Seattle for $50 or so --if I manage to mangle that then I'll get a good one. Should've got the knife a long time ago though. This one will outlast me.

    It's a solid tool meant to be used, so it won't be looking like this forever, it still has the factory oil on it in the picture and no 550 cord tether. Not as "nice" as Half Face Blades, but their simplicity translates to a lower cost, and hey, Winkler makes these for the Tier 1 guys so they can't be all THAT bad right? If you're military pedigree (active, vet, whatever) make sure to mention that, he'll take care of you.
    IMG_1249.JPG

    Now if you want a cheap "survival" knife --like the one with the shit in the handle-- I don't know what to tell you. My survival kit won't fit in a tube that small, it goes in a bag in the daypack with a bunch of other shit and there's a basic bag that's in there all the time and others that get changed out as needed, like medical supplies or tools or back country shit, whatever. I can add or remove bags based on what I'm doing and it keeps weight down and you always have what you need.
     

    Remington_Steel

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    Especially if you can get an S35vn esee 3, Great knife.

    Winkler knives are up to the challenge. Not Uber basic, great attention to detail.
     
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    wpeach1912

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    +1 for the ESEE. I have had an ESEE 4 for several years, and it has been great. Just make sure to keep it dry so the steel doesn't rust.
     
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    Remington_Steel

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    “+1 for the ESEE. I have had an ESEE 4 for several years, and it has been great. Just make sure to keep it dry so the steel doesn't rust.”

    esee has some s35vn models. All the positives, none of the negatives.
     
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    hlee

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    I have a small hoard of Busse Knives. The largest in my collection (SFNO) has a 7 inch blade. The smallest (game warden) has a 3" blade. Of all of them, the most used are the game warden and a SAR5. The second has been almost entirely scrubbed from the collective memory of the Busse faithful, but it is what I was looking for, though I didn't know it at the time- and I haven't bought a fixed blade knife since. I have 2, one is factory fresh, the other has been stripped and polished. Of all of the knives that I own, if someone were to say "okay, you've got a no-shit SHTF scenario, what knife do you want?" it is the Sar5. Strong enough to baton through anything you'll likely encounter for firewood. Thin enough to slice. Not light, but light enough to carry all day while carrying a rifle and a pack through the mountains. No giant choil taking up valuable blade space. I don't care what you say about a "finger coil," a real handle is more comfortable to hold than the bare blade steel. It's the most efficient usage of blade edge and handle length that Busse has ever made. And, they immediately discontinued it. Jerry Busse said he thought the handle felt like a hammer handle. Yeah, I guess it does. No weird swells. No skull crusher pommel. No hot spots from continuous usage. And, it doesn't resemble a scotch tape dispenser.

    IMG_3258.JPG

    Anyway, you probably can't find a SAR5 today, and if you can, it will be expensive(ish). But, I'd lean towards a 5" blade, 1/8" to maybe 3/16" thick. No choil. Drop the blade edge below the bottom edge of the handle so it doubles as a guard (you're hand won't likely slip over the blade because the blade has a greater depth than the handle). There are a bunch of great steels, and I'm not going to fanboy any. Pick one. G10 and micarta are strong, but heavy- and G10 may prove brittle. Stacked leather is super comfortable to use. So are wood handles, typically.

    The above doesn't really answer your question. But, a survival knife is the knife that you have in you possession when you find yourself in a survival situation. For most people, that means a relatively small folder. For me, it would likely be a micarta handled case stockman, or possibly a small bench made griptilian (you know, knives I carry a bunch). "Survival situations" include slicing food for lunch or opening packages, removing wayward strings from clothing, and sometimes minor surgery (removing a hang nail). I do have a "beater" fixed blade in the tool box of my pickup, just in case...
     
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    pmclaine

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    I have a small hoard of Busse Knives. The largest in my collection (SFNO) has a 7 inch blade. The smallest (game warden) has a 3" blade. Of all of them, the most used are the game warden and a SAR5. The second has been almost entirely scrubbed from the collective memory of the Busse faithful, but it is what I was looking for, though I didn't know it at the time- and I haven't bought a fixed blade knife since. I have 2, one is factory fresh, the other has been stripped and polished. Of all of the knives that I own, if someone were to say "okay, you've got a no-shit SHTF scenario, what knife do you want?" it is the Sar5. Strong enough to baton through anything you'll likely encounter for firewood. Thin enough to slice. Not light, but light enough to carry all day while carrying a rifle and a pack through the mountains. No giant choil taking up valuable blade space. I don't care what you say about a "finger coil," a real handle is more comfortable to hold than the bare blade steel. It's the most efficient usage of blade edge and handle length that Busse has ever made. And, they immediately discontinued it. Jerry Busse said he thought the handle felt like a hammer handle. Yeah, I guess it does. No weird swells. No skull crusher pommel. No hot spots from continuous usage. And, it doesn't resemble a scotch tape dispenser.

    View attachment 7318341

    Anyway, you probably can't find a SAR5 today, and if you can, it will be expensive(ish). But, I'd lean towards a 5" blade, 1/8" to maybe 3/16" thick. No choil. Drop the blade edge below the bottom edge of the handle so it doubles as a guard (you're hand won't likely slip over the blade because the blade has a greater depth than the handle). There are a bunch of great steels, and I'm not going to fanboy any. Pick one. G10 and micarta are strong, but heavy- and G10 may prove brittle. Stacked leather is super comfortable to use. So are wood handles, typically.

    The above doesn't really answer your question. But, a survival knife is the knife that you have in you possession when you find yourself in a survival situation. For most people, that means a relatively small folder. For me, it would likely be a micarta handled case stockman, or possibly a small bench made griptilian (you know, knives I carry a bunch). "Survival situations" include slicing food for lunch or opening packages, removing wayward strings from clothing, and sometimes minor surgery (removing a hang nail). I do have a "beater" fixed blade in the tool box of my pickup, just in case...
    Wish I could get one of those small Spec Ops Brand Molle sheaths in Coyote........