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Whats goin on here!! (Help)

ghostinthewoods

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Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 8, 2013
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Ok, so I'm fairly new to the whole gas gun thing and not very good at trouble shooting. I'm having fte probably 1 in 10 rounds which is unacceptable to me. they always look the same and there is a mark on the outer rim of the case? Is it a buffer problem? Unlocking too early or is the extractor the issue? Any insight would be great so I know where to start. Maybe it's just the cheap shit I have??
 

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Is that a 224 Valkyrie? Looks like your extractor is grabbing the edge of the rim instead of snapping over the rim. Need to check your ejector and make sure its seating flush with bolt face and no protruding causing the bolt to not be able to snap fully over the rim.

Also check and see if you have an O-Ring under your extractor, wrapped around extractor spring, referred to as a donut. I would disassemble that bolt and check everything and clean everything really good.

Also... any further info on the rifle, any details at all and ammo specs? Headspaced? Anything that may help us help you. Maybe someone has same rifle/components, or has experienced this before with said parts?
 
No name, thanks. Ya it's a valkyrie. I only noticed the marks since I started shooting starline brass. ( looking closer there are marks on the federal brass I shot too just more pronounced on the starline.)Its had the fte problem from the get go though. And I dont like it messing up my brass. Accuracy with it kinda surprised me for a cheaper upper. Started out shooting 85 grain rdf's (first pic). Then heard people having issues with them thought maybe that's where my very consistant flyer was coming from? So switched to 80 grain elds and just starting to work with them. It's a bearcreek arsenal. Looking at the extractor comparing it to another bolt I have it doesn't clip as deep around the rim as the other bolt. And is quite a bit looser (i can pretty easily move it with my finger) and no "dougnut" on the spring. As far as headspacing what would that manifest itself as?
 

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I found the test fired brass they sent with the upper and upon closer inspection there are the same marks on them. Sooo? Extractor issue?
 
tough to diag without being there. But my $0.02 is 3 possibilities. Ejector, it is in the bolt opposite the extractor. Use a little punch, hell tooth pick might work and push it in towards bolt face and make sure it doesn't bottom out before being flush or slightly below bolt face. If it will not go flush or lower then it could stop the bolt and hence the extractor from going over the rim.
Could be an extractor issue.
upper could be under gassed or right on the knife edge (which would still be under gassed). I have seen an AR that was just slightly under gassed that the brass instead of getting flung out of the ejection port would just barely have enough oomph to get the brass to dribble out the port, once in awhile it would not have enough ooomph and the empty brass would just bounce around in the upper. When this happened the bolt didn't have enough rear travel to pick up the next round and would close on the "ejected" brass like in your 1st post 2nd picture.
 
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No name, thanks. Ya it's a valkyrie. I only noticed the marks since I started shooting starline brass. ( looking closer there are marks on the federal brass I shot too just more pronounced on the starline.)Its had the fte problem from the get go though. And I dont like it messing up my brass. Accuracy with it kinda surprised me for a cheaper upper. Started out shooting 85 grain rdf's (first pic). Then heard people having issues with them thought maybe that's where my very consistant flyer was coming from? So switched to 80 grain elds and just starting to work with them. It's a bearcreek arsenal. Looking at the extractor comparing it to another bolt I have it doesn't clip as deep around the rim as the other bolt. And is quite a bit looser (i can pretty easily move it with my finger) and no "dougnut" on the spring. As far as headspacing what would that manifest itself as?

Ejector, donut, and under gassed would be the areas I would look at for a resolution. On a side note, those 80 grain pills are grouping well with such an economical upper. My PSA 1:7 20" .224 V shot the 88's and 90 factory at 3MOA. Shot the factory 75 TMJ at around 1 MOA. Couldn't find any 60 NBT factory to try. I think I am going to go with a 1:6.5 twist since the only reason I want this caliber is the high BC of the 88's and 90's. Good luck to you.
 
Thanks for the help fellers. I'll see what I can figure out. And sd those groups are with the 85 rdf's. Still in early stages with the 80 elds. I've shot the 85's out to 600 and the 1:7 seemed to stabilize just fine. Just like the 100 yard groups though I'd have three or so inside a 1/2 minute group and then one or two that open up alittle. They still shot probably alittle less than 2 moa at that far. No tumblers or anything though. Liked the rdf's because I could put them in the lands and still fit in the mag. The elds are jumping around .030 to fit in the mag.
 
tough to diag without being there. But my $0.02 is 3 possibilities. Ejector, it is in the bolt opposite the extractor. Use a little punch, hell tooth pick might work and push it in towards bolt face and make sure it doesn't bottom out before being flush or slightly below bolt face. If it will not go flush or lower then it could stop the bolt and hence the extractor from going over the rim.
Could be an extractor issue.
upper could be under gassed or right on the knife edge (which would still be under gassed). I have seen an AR that was just slightly under gassed that the brass instead of getting flung out of the ejection port would just barely have enough oomph to get the brass to dribble out the port, once in awhile it would not have enough ooomph and the empty brass would just bounce around in the upper. When this happened the bolt didn't have enough rear travel to pick up the next round and would close on the "ejected" brass like in your 1st post 2nd picture.

Yes very hard to diagnose w/o being there but I mostly agree with the above, & you should make the ejector check as described to be sure it will go in flush or below the bolt face.

But if it doesn't, I really don't expect that the bolt will lock up & it does seem to be doing so.

I'd surely get a better extractor spring with an O-ring.............BCM's is about as good as it gets & they are cheap insurance.

I'd also advise you to verify that the bolt will actually lock back on an empty magazine & note where the spent brass is going as that will give you a clue on how the gun is gassed. Should be ejecting brass around 3 o'clock'ish. Less that than leans toward over-gassed, more than that leans toward being under-gassed but anywhere between 2 & 5 should function the gun OK in most cases unless something else is going on.

Good Luck.

MM
 
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I second the BCM extractor spring kit, found here:

https://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Extractor-Spring-Uprade-Kit-p/bcm-exspring-1.htm

$5 and I run this kit in my ARs and also keep these in my spares. I also second the ejector test, just take a pin punch, small flat head, anything that will depress that ejector back into the bolt. Make sure it isnt sticking and that it will depress all the way down flush with the bolt face.

As far as headspace goes, I always try to have headspace gauges for any cartridge I run. I dont run that many so I only have 8 sets. But I always throw it out there as they are invaluable tools. Not all AR bolts ar made equal, I've found some that have different depths on the face effectively changing the headspace when mated to the barrel extension.

I'm assuming BCA probably headspaces their uppers with BCG, but cant say for sure. If the headspace on the barrel is too deep the cartridge could possibly be going so far into the chamber that the extractor cant snap over it? Also as mentioned undergassed will cause FTE problems. I would check the gas block alignment and check your gas key to gas tube alignment.

Anytime I have an issue, I check everything. I know BCA makes cheaper AR parts, but I've used their barrels with no problems. I shoot a lot of cheaper AR builds and have had good luck with most cheaper stuff. Good luck with it, I would recommend a new extractor spring + donut like the BCM above for sure. Then just check out everything and try to eliminate any possible issues.
 
Keep in mind that if everything else checks out you could definitely have an ejector that is just out of spec. Not enough overhang on the claw part, you know?
 
Bcm spring kit on the way. Ejector seems to be fine. (pushes down flush.) I'll see if it solves the issue then try a new extractor. Thanks again for all the help guys.
 
Bcm spring kit on the way. Ejector seems to be fine. (pushes down flush.) I'll see if it solves the issue then try a new extractor. Thanks again for all the help guys.

Shoulda just bought the spring kit with the extractor as parts of it................never hurts to have a spare even if it turns out that you don't need it.

MM
 
Sprinco supplies a lot to gun manufacturers, but they also make a cryogenic hardened 5 coil. Great bunch of people down in Texas.
 

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Check the extractor "claw" outside edges... like these in the photo from the internet...

The pointier ones ( less rounded off ) have caused issued for various folks...

SuWHaxU.jpg
 
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