Pay the trolls no mind.
- Thread starter -Nick-
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Pay the trolls no mind.
Okay, dumb question here, since we got a few experienced eyes looking at this thread. Would blue Loctite work to prevent stainless to stainless contact and seizing? Like for barrel to receiver threads? Or do I need to use a particular antiseize?
I have seen this many times and have done it too 
you had something in your muzzle brake when you put it on. I would damn near guarantee it. Threads, especially stainless on stainless are very picky if you try to assemble them and a piece of anything gets between them. Usually you wont notice when you put it on either. It will go on smooth and the debree (sand blast media, burr, whatever) often times wont bind when pushed ONE direction. Its when its pushed the other direction (you un-screw your brake) that the debree takes a bite and holds on for the ride. Its not the barrels fault, its not the brakes fault but the fault of whoever assembled it and didn't clean properly 17" barrel is in your future and use anti seize next time
you had something in your muzzle brake when you put it on. I would damn near guarantee it. Threads, especially stainless on stainless are very picky if you try to assemble them and a piece of anything gets between them. Usually you wont notice when you put it on either. It will go on smooth and the debree (sand blast media, burr, whatever) often times wont bind when pushed ONE direction. Its when its pushed the other direction (you un-screw your brake) that the debree takes a bite and holds on for the ride. Its not the barrels fault, its not the brakes fault but the fault of whoever assembled it and didn't clean properly
17" barrel is in your future and use anti seize next time
I have seen this many times and have done it too
you had something in your muzzle brake when you put it on. I would damn near guarantee it. Threads, especially stainless on stainless are very picky if you try to assemble them and a piece of anything gets between them. Usually you wont notice when you put it on either. It will go on smooth and the debree (sand blast media, burr, whatever) often times wont bind when pushed ONE direction. Its when its pushed the other direction (you un-screw your brake) that the debree takes a bite and holds on for the ride. Its not the barrels fault, its not the brakes fault but the fault of whoever assembled it and didn't clean properly
Any suggestions for anti-seize? I'd never used a stainless barrel before and should have probably asked before I installed it
Looking at the pictures I'd say that nobody bothered with any anti-seize compound when the brake was installed.
Stainless Steel is notorious for galling and anti-seize is a must. Didn't need to be over torqued to cause this or any other "fouling". Once the two parts had been assembled for a while, the first movement during dis-assembly caused the sharp points of the threads to weld and from there on the brake just ripped metal out as it was being removed.
Want to prevent it in the future, get some good Anti-Seize compound suitable for use on Stainless Steel. Apply to the threads and hand assemble the brake on the barrel. Screw it on and off several times until it works nice and smoothly. Then clean the threads with some brake cleaner, dry, and re-apply a THIN coating of anti-seize. Reassemble and torque properly.
Otherwise, either consider the brake permanent or get ready to have a repeat performance.
Stainless Steel is notorious for galling and anti-seize is a must. Didn't need to be over torqued to cause this or any other "fouling". Once the two parts had been assembled for a while, the first movement during dis-assembly caused the sharp points of the threads to weld and from there on the brake just ripped metal out as it was being removed.
Want to prevent it in the future, get some good Anti-Seize compound suitable for use on Stainless Steel. Apply to the threads and hand assemble the brake on the barrel. Screw it on and off several times until it works nice and smoothly. Then clean the threads with some brake cleaner, dry, and re-apply a THIN coating of anti-seize. Reassemble and torque properly.
Otherwise, either consider the brake permanent or get ready to have a repeat performance.
Any suggestions for anti-seize? I'd never used a stainless barrel before and should have probably asked before I installed it
auto parts store.."Permetex Anti Sieze"....silver.....
Will you have the same problems with a stainless steel barrel and carbon steel muzzle device?
You can actually have a problem with any "steel" and steel combinations. For some reason Stainless/Stainless seems to be the worst. It's all about the "asperities" (the sharp pointed rough spots left from machining threads) "welding together" under pressure and anytime "points" come in contact there is extra pressure.
I used to work for a company that had a solid rule. No screw fastener was assembled without anti-seize and torqued with a torque wrench. They didn't want their airplanes falling out of the sky due to fastener failure or not being able to fly when a mechanic fuckered up the threads when removing or reinstalling.
A big Plus One for the silver Loctite anti-seize. As a side note, it's great to keep bolt lugs from galling on a new rifle. Downside is that it leaves a nasty stain on your clothes if you come in contact with it.
The silver stuff is great for a lot of things. Use it on exhaust manifold bolts and screws, even paint it on both sides of an exhaust manifold gasket before assembling. It resists corrosion and heat up to 2,000 degrees. A small amount on spark plug threads can save you the cost of a cylinder head too.
Blue loctite is a low to medium strength threadLOCKER. What you want is antiseize compound, which is a LUBRICANT used to prevent thread galling.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77124-Nickel-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0002UENJ2
Bostik High Temperature Stainless Steel Anti Seize - Industrial Supply Group
Keep in mind that the application of anti-seize changes the torque value requirements of the fasteners. Less torque is better.
Any substance applied to a spark plug thread needs to support electrical conductivity. If it is a di-electric, you'll have problems.
Any substance applied to a spark plug thread needs to support electrical conductivity. If it is a di-electric, you'll have problems.
I say yes to this. I think it will help the threads to conform to their new environment.
If the threads are machined properly and fit properly there should be no issues putting the parts together and taking them apart as many times as you desire. The use of thread sealant, lubricant or Rocksett is fine but not a substitution for proper machining in the 1st place. Its also possible to be machined "perfect" and hardened Rocksett or something else in the threads damaging them on removal if the bond is not broken before cranking it on of off.
Rocksett is great on things that see a lot of heat like machine gun barrels. Its sole purpose is to hold tight at higher temps. If you do not run your weapon uber hot use any grade loctite if you are concerned with retention. Medium grade / locking grade loctite can easily be rendered "neutral" with 550F'ish degrees of heat from a propane torch.
Never seize is great to apply to threads where dirt or corrosion is likely to migrate to like shotgun chokes , breech plugs, gas plugs and areas exposed to direct pressure or the elements entering into the threads. I ALWAYS use never seize on aluminum threads be it an engine head or other part.
Anti seize compounds have a high metallic content so conductivity isn't an issue. Couple that with the fact that a spark plug is either sealed in the cylinder head with a copper gasket or tapered seat where no anti-seize is applied, conductivity isn't an issue. Especially at 50,000 or more volts that's capable of jumping gaps of up to .090" (or more). There's more resistance in the spark plug wires than in any "anti-seize coated threads". (For the record, my shooting now is supported from my 42 year career in the Automotive Industry).
As for torque value changes, usually the "instructions" call for a 10% reduction in value when the threads are lubed. Torque is applied merely to create "tension" within the assembled parts that keeps them from "unfastening" themselves. You never need more torque than necessary to accomplish that goal. Some people feel that "more is better" and the pics show the usual results.
When ever are stainless on stainless threads there is always a possibility of galling when going on or off.
If when installing or removing threaded devices on stainless and the threads start to get tight STOP, do not force or the the threads will weld themselves together as shown.
Put a liberal amount of penetrating oil or WD40 on the threads, let it sit for a couple of hours then attempt by remove the part in small increments back and forth 1/8 turns until the part is removed. If it locks up solid your screwed and will have to have the parts separated by other means.
I'm sorry that happened to you, I know this doesn't help your situation but may prevent someone else from the same fate, good luck with that.
If when installing or removing threaded devices on stainless and the threads start to get tight STOP, do not force or the the threads will weld themselves together as shown.
Put a liberal amount of penetrating oil or WD40 on the threads, let it sit for a couple of hours then attempt by remove the part in small increments back and forth 1/8 turns until the part is removed. If it locks up solid your screwed and will have to have the parts separated by other means.
I'm sorry that happened to you, I know this doesn't help your situation but may prevent someone else from the same fate, good luck with that.
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