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Rifle Scopes You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

HapHazard

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Sep 14, 2009
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I'm pretty new here, and to this game, though not to shooting. I've lurked for awhile and the amount of wisdom here is stunning. I've been sucking it up like a sponge.

With that comes the realization that in the past there were some things I didn't do exactly right. That brings me to this post. You guys have absolutely ruined scope mounting for me.

Used to be all I needed was the mount, rings, scope, an Allen wrench and my eyeball. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I just finished mounting a scope on my PSS and let me tell you, it took a bit more.

I used degreaser, Locktite, Torx bits, torque wrenches, lapping bar and compound, feeler gauges, a soft-faced hammer, bubble levels and a plumb line, along with the mount, rings, scope and my eyeball. And it took more than an hour.

The difference, of course, is that now at the 1K mark, my corrections should be spot-on, if I twist the knobs the right amount (and the right way). All that's left is to deal with is the other million or so variables in order to poke a hole in the right place on the target.

Thanks guys.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HapHazard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm pretty new here, and to this game, though not to shooting. I've lurked for awhile and the amount of wisdom here is stunning. I've been sucking it up like a sponge.

With that comes the realization that in the past there were some things I didn't do exactly right. That brings me to this post. You guys have absolutely ruined scope mounting for me.

Used to be all I needed was the mount, rings, scope, an Allen wrench and my eyeball. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I just finished mounting a scope on my PSS and let me tell you, it took a bit more.

I used degreaser, Locktite, Torx bits, torque wrenches, lapping bar and compound, feeler gauges, a soft-faced hammer, bubble levels and a plumb line, along with the mount, rings, scope and my eyeball. And it took more than an hour.

The difference, of course, is that now at the 1K mark, my corrections should be spot-on, if I twist the knobs the right amount (and the right way). All that's left is to deal with is the other million or so variables in order to poke a hole in the right place on the target.

Thanks guys. </div></div>

I'm with you there. For ten years I've been plopping that tube down in those $10 rings and off I went. Monday it took me 45 minutes of flipping rings 180, torquing, measuring, etc and that was after waiting a week to get my lapping bar. And, after all of that, I saw last night at the range that the recticle is not perfectly straight so I'm sure that's another 30 mins and at least one new tool.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

Use LL's feeler gauge method on high quality rings and base, done. It shouldn't take you longer than 20-30min max and your reticle will be straight.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ALMAORFE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use LL's feeler gauge method on high quality rings and base, done. It shouldn't take you longer than 20-30min max and your reticle will be straight.</div></div>

Where can one find LL's feeler gauge method?
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Requiem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Where can one find LL's feeler gauge method? </div></div>

Here:

http://www.snipershide.com/level

I use this method with bubble level and plumb line confirmation. It works as long as your scope is put together properly (no cant to the reticle).
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

Business cards under the scope body to replicate feeler gauges, tighten down scope rings to 5lbs, remove cards, tighten rest of way. Verify with a plumb line on the range. 15-20 minutes. Has been working to 1K for me.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

Reticle cant is only a personal/optical thing. If the mechanicals in the scope are truly straight vertically, your reticle will still track correctly even if it appears to be canted. You can verify the vertical plane with the paper test.

I use a level on the mounting rail, then use the feeler guage method on the bottom flat of the scope. I check for vertical tracking, and then adjust accordingly. It really is that simple.

DK
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: z71rat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Reticle cant is only a personal/optical thing. If the mechanicals in the scope are truly straight vertically, your reticle will still track correctly even if it appears to be canted. You can verify the vertical plane with the paper test.</div></div>

I know. Just anal. It shot beautifully last night but it's just a shame to spend 45 mins and get it canted. As I tightened the scope down I kept checking the hor and vert planes against the fence, window blinds, light poles, etc and still ended up twisted.

I try some of the methods suggested above.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: z71rat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If the mechanicals in the scope are truly straight vertically, your reticle will still track correctly even if it appears to be canted.</div></div>

Good point I hadn't considered, but I hates me a crooked reticle almost as much as a crooked politician.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HapHazard</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Requiem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Where can one find LL's feeler gauge method? </div></div>

Here:

http://www.snipershide.com/level

I use this method with bubble level and plumb line confirmation. It works as long as your scope is put together properly (no cant to the reticle). </div></div>

Thanks for link Hap, I was going to throw new glass on my savage the same wrong way . I have much more confedence in this method doing me right.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

Can be adjusted with proper reticle cant.
smile.gif
now polar moon drift... that is a bitch
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">but...................did you mount the spin drift indicator correctly ?</div></div>
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HapHazard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used degreaser, Locktite, Torx bits, torque wrenches, lapping bar and compound, feeler gauges, a soft-faced hammer, bubble levels and a plumb line, along with the mount, rings, scope and my eyeball. And it took more than an hour.</div></div>

No bailing wire and JB Weld?
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

hap hazard,

read some more and you'll find a whole lotta things that the boys will "ruin" on ya and drive ya nuts.... but worth the effort in the end.

no doubt this is the best site on the web for all types of practical, tactical, and precision shooting / hunting.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

A $3 set of feeler gauges, a torque wrench, and about 4 mins should be all it takes.

ETA: And I hate to break this to you, but if your scope doesn't track true then all the lapping compound in the world isn't going to make a difference at the 1k line. Spend 5 minutes mounting, the rest of the time you budgeted checking how it tracks and you'll be one up on most.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me


I hate to revive an ancient thread, but where did this go? I can't seem to find it anywhere...

Thanks,
-Slice

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HapHazard</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Requiem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Where can one find LL's feeler gauge method? </div></div>

Here:

http://www.snipershide.com/level

I use this method with bubble level and plumb line confirmation. It works as long as your scope is put together properly (no cant to the reticle). </div></div>
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HomeSlice</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I hate to revive an ancient thread, but where did this go? I can't seem to find it anywhere...

Thanks,
-Slice

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HapHazard</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Requiem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Where can one find LL's feeler gauge method? </div></div>

Here:

http://www.snipershide.com/level

I use this method with bubble level and plumb line confirmation. It works as long as your scope is put together properly (no cant to the reticle). </div></div> </div></div>


Lowlight had a great post on the subject but I am not finding it now. there is this one http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=86421&page=1



Basically you get a feeling gauge and if you are using a one piece rail you place the gauge under the turret housing where it is flat while the top of the rings are loose. The gauge, once adjusted right, will hold the scope level as you torque the rings down. Thats it in a nut shell. Your turrets adjustments will be true as will the reticle, provided it is not canted.

here is a pic

heritage2.jpg
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CSTACTICAL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a video on how we mount scopes.

<span style="font-weight: bold">How to Mounting a Scope Video</span> </div></div>

Nice informative video Thanks
Some rec's have a lip on the right bolt rail that makes it tougher, do we ASSume the base is set square since its not adjustable
confused.gif


That shim method looks to require a 1pc base many hunting rifle don't use.


 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Niles Coyote</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Lowlight had a great post on the subject but I am not finding it now. there is this one http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=86421&page=1

Basically you get a feeling gauge and if you are using a one piece rail you place the gauge under the turret housing where it is flat while the top of the rings are loose. The gauge, once adjusted right, will hold the scope level as you torque the rings down. Thats it in a nut shell. Your turrets adjustments will be true as will the reticle, provided it is not canted.
</div></div>
This is, of course, assuming the receiver holes are drilled correctly…
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

If you are mounting to a hunting rifle you could just use a base from one of the bolt guns or an ar and do the feller method thn move the scope to the hunting rifle. Now if you are using turn in rings then I don't know what to tell you.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ratbert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A $3 set of feeler gauges, a torque wrench, and about 4 mins should be all it takes.

ETA: And I hate to break this to you, but if your scope doesn't track true then all the lapping compound in the world isn't going to make a difference at the 1k line. Spend 5 minutes mounting, the rest of the time you budgeted checking how it tracks and you'll be one up on most.
</div></div>

I know this is an old thread but can anyone elaborate on how to correctly check scope tracking?
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

A Bushnell #74-3333 boresighter with collimation grid will show you that your turrets move your reticle true.
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

Check out Lindy's well written process:

http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/ScopeChecking/

If you are after absolute accuracy, ensure the actual range from reticle to target (paragraph 2). i.e. measure with a tape, not a LRF, and do not trust your local range for "100 yds".

I personally do not trust collimators (bore sighter) for validating reticle tracking. They work OK for preliminary adjustment after mounting, but I still prefer "visual bore sighting" - looking down the tube and dialing in the optic.

I may get flamed by the collimator lovers, so have at it. I still have my Nomex driving suit.
smile.gif


Kevin
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HapHazard</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Requiem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Where can one find LL's feeler gauge method? </div></div>

Here:

http://www.snipershide.com/level

I use this method with bubble level and plumb line confirmation. It works as long as your scope is put together properly (no cant to the reticle). </div></div>


This link didn't work for me?

When your checking for "eye relief" should you do it with the scope turned up to high power or low? any difference?
 
Re: You guys have ruined scope mounting for me

After reading this today I got paranoid and busted out the feelers. Despite everything checking out I couldn't seem to believe it.

Then came a process of bubble levels, shimming the rifle to dead center and running a plumb line at the end of the hall...

The verdict? Everything was square.

This thread should be locked for the sanity of others.