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So tell me where the can & short act are now

Won't affect me too much as I have more than a dozen stamps. However, early on, it was an annoyance to wait 6 months for the stamp.
While $200 isn't much on a F/A or TBAC .338 can, it's quite a bit a on a .22 sparrow that retailed for $299. Never been to a range that denied use or asked to see a stamp - they are somewhat common here in the midwest. Travelling with a can (like thru shitholes like Illinois) while legal to pass through, it isn't legal to visit friends for a few days while in possession. Too much hassle to travel with an SBR. It'd be nice to see these restrictions lifted.


Keep in mind too that those 299 .22lr cans pricing also includes the making tax that they have to pay to ATF, so those cans would be closer to 100 bucks OTD if this bill passes.

Optics For Sale March 1.5-15x42mm FFP Riflescope with DR-TR2B Reticle and Shuriken Dial Lock

For sale, lightly used March shorty with box and paperwork. There is a small nick on top of elevation turret that was there when I got it. I picked this up from here a couple of years ago. My favorite optic to date, only selling because we built a home on 4 acres. It sits in a Nightforce 20moa unmount. I will post picture of box and certificate from March this evening.

$2500 shipped
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So tell me where the can & short act are now

Is it really that big of a deal? You can buy cans now, you can buy sbrs now. None of this moves the needle. Maybe start carrying about something you can't have now.
Creeping incrementalism. It is how we lose rights. It’s also how we gain them back. Pulling any power back from the federal govt is a Herculean effort. Yes, you can buy suppressors and SBRs and SBSs today. But, gutting the NFA is going to be a bit like gutting a deer. A bunch of relatively small cuts until it’s just a hollow carcass.

6gt ARC CDG and light primer strikes

I'm guessing you're measuring the depth with the tail of your calipers? Not the best tool, but short of spending $$$ on a dedicated device, certainly usable.

Pocket depth (0.124) minus primer height (0.120) gives a difference of 4 thou. So for the primers to be just touching the bottom, they'd need to be 4 thou below flush. Ideally, for a bit of pre-load/crush, you want them 2-3 thou below *that*, so say 6-7 thou below flush (in this example).

Long gong

This is a timely discussion for me.
I just purchased a set for an option for those that are either less mobile or turned off by PRS22 matches.

I like the idea of 100, 200, 300 yard options. I think I’ll also consider the shooting format used by most ELR matches wherein you require three shooters on the line at once. After the shooter before you finishes firing, they have one minute to clear out at which time the next shooter prepares to fire. And etc…

Having run KLY racks at my PRS22 matches for years now, I think I’ll use 3”,2”,1” at 100 yards.

I might also have a separate side gallery for those shooters not on the line who want to have some fun.

This has me thinking now.
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Neck collapsed reloading new brass?

I was loading new ADG brass for 7 PRC this AM. I performed no case prep.

First problem, right there.

Done this before, insert primer, charge with powder, seat bullet. While searing the bullet, the neck collapsed at the base (at body of case). This has never happened before. Obviously can’t chamber the round as the OD of the body is enlarged as it squashed out.

What kind of die are you using? The better quality inline micrometer seaters (Redding, Forster, Wilson, etc.) tend to not have that kind of problem. Partly because the body sleeve supports things better, and partly because they don't have any option for crimping depending on how the die is adjusted.

I don’t have a bullet puller.

Go to the local sporting goods store - or Midway/Amazon/whatever, and get one. A generic kinetic 'hammer' style puller works fine. The collet style pullers work better, but cost more and/or are more fussy to set up. Smack it on the floor until the bullet comes out, dump the powder back into the jug, and look at both the bullet OD and the neck ID to see what's going on.
Should I have chamfered the case neck?

On brand new virgin brass? Yes. Run it through a F/L sizing die with an expander, or over a mandrel, whichever you're using, to make sure the new brass is actually *round* and hasn't gotten dinged up in shipping/handling. Then a light chamfer to ease the bullet entry into the case mouth. This is metallic cartridge reloading 101.

Should I have lubricated the inside of the neck?

It probably wouldn't hurt, particularly on virgin brass. Some manufacturers - Lapua for sure, dunno about ADG - finish with a wash cycle that leaves some sort of residue that results in obnoxiously high initial seating force. Like 'holy $hit' seating force. You can either put some sort of lube inside the case necks... or throw the new brass in the tumbler with some used dry media for an hour or so. The tumbler dust does a surprisingly good job of acting like a dry lube on the neck ID, and can dramatically reduce that seating force on virgin brass. FWIW, that tip came straight from a Lapua rep at a big match, years ago.
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So tell me where the can & short act are now

Won't affect me too much as I have more than a dozen stamps. However, early on, it was an annoyance to wait 6 months for the stamp.
While $200 isn't much on a F/A or TBAC .338 can, it's quite a bit a on a .22 sparrow that retailed for $299. Never been to a range that denied use or asked to see a stamp - they are somewhat common here in the midwest. Travelling with a can (like thru shitholes like Illinois) while legal to pass through, it isn't legal to visit friends for a few days while in possession. Too much hassle to travel with an SBR. It'd be nice to see these restrictions lifted.

XM7 worries from the field.

I’m not mil or former mil, so take this opinion for what it is worth. But; from the Delaware River, to a meadow on the Trinity river, Mt Suribachi, a spider hole in Iraq, and to the mountains and valleys of Afghanistan, modern conflict relies on some group of dirty grunts standing on a patch of dirt, carrying rifles. Regardless of what was done by the artillery or the airplanes, it ain’t yours until you have guys standing on it. For my money (and it is our money) my strong preference is that our guys be carrying the best available. I just wish we could agree on what “best” means.

And just to say that I have some skin in the game, beyond my tax dollars, my son joined in January.

Insurance on long gun ship

Have the seller go to a local FFL dealer, have them ship it to your local FFL dealer and pick it up from there. Probably a $30 to $50 charge from each FFL dealer + shipping. FedEx/UPS only ship/insure firearms shipped from licensed dealer to licensed dealer now (that's my understanding, I'm wrong a lot though). The couple hundred bucks extra is Worth the peace of mind for a 10K gun..

So tell me where the can & short act are now

Well don't go to retarded places. No one has ever asked about tax stamps or cares. I shoot ALL over the east coast and the amount of times anyone has asked anyone I know of for a tax stamp = 0. No one cares but boogy men on the internet. I hear all the same shit from gun store fudds and other retards who dont actually go out and shoot. People who shoot, could care less.
Yes. As usual, your experience makes you the unmitigated expert. I forgot that.

But bullshit. I’ve been places where these things happened, so can your ‘expertise’ and allow others to share actual experiences.

Your first go to is to dismiss people with other opinions as idiots who don’t actually shoot. You are fucking hilarious.😂 🤣😄
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6gt ARC CDG and light primer strikes

Did you by chance measure the primer pocket depth before hand? Primer seating depth after seating?

I'm not trying to get you headed down any rabbit hole of measuring/sorting primer seating depth on the regular, but mainly as a troubleshooting tool here.

If the primer pocket is fairly tight - and my limited experience with Alpha OCD brass in .308 Win SRP says 'yes' - then you do need to pay some attention to a) what the primer pocket depth is, b) what the primer height (bottom of cup to top of anvil) is, and c) make sure that you're actually seating the primer far enough in to where the anvil has some pre-load/crush/consolidation (all terms for the same thing, depending on the literature/source) so that it will go off reliably. Otherwise it's entirely possible that all you're doing when you drop the trigger is just seating the primer a little deeper - but not actually crushing the pellet and causing it to go off.

I'm not saying that one can't reliably seat by feel, without checking the numbers... but if you're new enough that you didn't realize you had the wrong primer ram in place, you might not be there yet.