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scissorhands · Jul 3, 2025

Hell yeah @zmen !!!!!!! I've been doing a ton of travel the last few months, but all that's done and back into match mode. Just gotta screw this new barrel on and see if it shoots. Congrats on the 2nd place finish, that's gotta feel good.

Maggot · Jul 3, 2025

Kevin 149 said:
Jesus H. Christ, we’ve been taking it in the ass somewhere between 40-60 YEARS!! Nothing that far gone will be fixed in a few months. There’s generations of simps/cuckolds in the employ of the federal government. Nothing will be fixed in a few months. Would you give this man a chance for Christ’s sake.

Goddamn, some of you fuckers think if it ain’t fixed in a day, that proves Trump’s just another commie.

Have you vetted that Jesus's middle initial was 'H'. Could you footnote or cite the source.

Asking for a friend.

jimsair · Jul 3, 2025

Selling a Vortex Razor HD Reticle Eyepiece for the Razor HD 27-60x85mm spotter. It is the MRAD version. (https://vortexoptics.com/vortex-razor-hd-reticle-spotting-scope-eyepiece+reticle-Ranging~MRAD). It's in good condition with flawless glass. SOLD shipped.

Thanks

david walter · Jul 3, 2025

@R_Swanson,

You could have just said “I’m not smart enough or strong enough to do that” and moved along with life.

But you went full retard.

Nice.

Maggot · Jul 3, 2025

On a different slant, I'm thankful and honored to be a citizen here and considerer that alone as 'winning'.

But, yeah.

FLIGHT762 · Jul 3, 2025

As you found, you cannot neck only size only forever. At some point, you need to F/L size. I found this out decades ago and if I want to N/O size, I will not go over three N/O reloadings. I use a Lee Collet die along with a Redding Body Die and get very accurate ammo with low runout.

As far as inconsistent shoulder bump, it can be caused by inconsistent case lube and from case work hardening. Annealing can help, but freshly annealed cases will give more shoulder bump from your initial die setting. This is why some of use use the Redding Competition shell holders to adjust shoulder bump without having to reset the F/L die. Different brands of brass will bump differently.

I have found dwell time can sometimes help. Instead of running the case in and out the F/L die really fast, you run it into the die slower and let it dwell for a couple of seconds in the die before lowering the ram. I have seen you tube videos of testing dwell time and some have found no difference, but it is worth a try to see.

shoots100 · Jul 3, 2025

Independence day bumpski 4th

Baron85 · Jul 3, 2025

Mechdesigner said:
Ran the Stinger at a match on Saturday, it ran great! Need to dial down the tensioner pressure just a hair to get the feeding a touch smoother but that is a simple adjustment. Ended up cleaning 4/8 stages with 10 shots down on the match. I am really excited on the progress we made!

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Watching the video of the feeding. Looks like it’s getting hung up on the last bit of forward movement. Is that just the shooter not pushing the bolt all the way forward, mag adjustment, or my imagination?

lash · Jul 3, 2025

R_Swanson said:
Jesus Christ, SH does not f'n change... someone asks a questions... 10 pages ensue how their QUESTION was wrong in the first place, and they should be doing something totally different. This place has more know-it-alls per square inch outside of f'n Washington DC in the entire US.

I know how to take a barrel off, as you pointed out, its not rocket science. When I rebuilt my Land Cruiser, I did everything... minus having the diffs re-geared and lockers installed. Couldn't I have done the same thing as my guy, if I bought the tools and followed the instructions? Yes... but he's done it 5 thousand times, he already has the tools, and I was more than happy to pay for his expertise.

LRI (and other smiths) have big, beefy 500 dollar barrel vises (LRI sells them here) secured to a very stable workspace with tons of room to apply leverage, etc. I do not. Not all of us have 4,000 sq ft pole barns, or even garages with tons of work space. I have the 80 dollar barrel vise from ebay (that everyone recommends) that I put in my Wilton Vise that works great to install barrels, but does not allow the torque necessary to remove a Tikka barrel. I could buy the LRI vise (or the high end SAC, etc), reconfigure my damn garage and build a new workbench to mount it, and remove it myself...

Or I could send it to LRI for 50 dollars per action/barrel. Which is actually the more logical solution?

Now that you know my life story, I hope my decision making around Tikka barrel removal and preference to send them out makes sense to you. I know it will help me sleep at night if it does.

Yeah, he was tons of help. Good call.

You seem a bit tetchy today.

And you are right, SH is just the same. Cunts like you ask a valid question. One person offers up another valid option. So instead of saying thank you and moving on, you go all sarcastic because you already had an answer and can’t stand if someone doesn’t do exactly as you say or want.

Grow the fuck up already or go somewhere else where people appreciate being abused for offering advice. Tata!

Terry Cross · Jul 3, 2025

Maurygold said:
I’m pretty distrusting of sig right now

I am distrusting on anything Sig makes that goes bang. Not a fan of their development/beta/rollout/endless iterations style.

But . . . to be fair, their batting average on optics and LRFs is pretty good. They arguably have the most efficient LRF combo of hardware/software out there and at a very competitive price.

Prknives · Jul 3, 2025

3rdfocal · Jul 3, 2025

Maurygold said:
Cortina talks about this a good bit. He always says I don’t know my jump but I know if it shoots well.

Yea exactly

Trigger Monkey · Jul 3, 2025

Maser · Jul 3, 2025

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Koakinetics · Jul 3, 2025

I'm going to replace it, I have an MDT on the way. The front screw when reinstalled doesn't sit flush which I gather is correct. However, there's still a noticeable gap between the action and the base towards the front, which I don't believe is intentional

3rdfocal · Jul 3, 2025

RandyM72 said:
I agree, thats a good approach, as long as you are relatively certain your zero seating depth assessment is close to being correct. I conduct this exercise of establishing the zero a few times just to prove my assessment is close (within .003-.005) or just take the average. I used .005" increments up to .020" then used .010 increments afterwards which seemed to work for me. It would be great to get more input here from competition benchrest shooters on their methods in general and what their experiences are with the 3 different ogives - tangent, secant, hybrid.

I think everyones measurement will vary, even 2 people using the same method will probably come up with a different number. My .005 is probably your .012 and someone else's .009. It's arbitrary, I think you just need a solid reference point to start with.

sgtsmmiii · Jul 3, 2025

mkollman74 said:
My (probably) one-of-a-kind shorty…

Strasser RS700 straight pull action (lefty)
Q Sidechick chassis
Proof 18" CF 308 barrel
MDT grip
Huber 2 stage bottom safety trigger
Kahles 318i

Very cool.

!!

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