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Annealed brass opinion

Has anyone actually tested and documented heavier cases having lower H20 capacity? It would make sense and the expected result, but I just haven't ever seen anyone post having done so. I have checked a few cases when I was making custom 9mm sabot ammo that went 2,417fps a few years ago since that's a ugh, not well documented process... But haven't seen anyone pull say 20-30 cases that are close in weight and of the same brand and caliber etc. and then another 20-30 that are heavy by comparison and H20 capacity test them to actually see what the statistically relevant results are.
Yes, quite a few people have done so actually, and I'm just one of them. It can be very obvious when comparing the likes of Winchester .308 brass to LC .308 brass. Winchester brass is quite a bit lighter with much more case volume than other brass. For example, when I weighted 10 random Winchester .308 brass I have, the average was 158 grs with 57.3 grs H2O of volume. For 10 of my Lapua .308 brass, the average was 172 grs in weight with a an average case volume of 55.9 grs H2O. If one takes the individual weights and volumes and graphs them, you can see the correlation, though there not a direct correlation from case to case given variations in web thickness. The same relationship for weight and case volume can be seen even from one lot of brass to another as can be see in data that came from Peterson Cartridge Co. here:
Peterson Brass data.jpg


In my own testing I've seen enough difference within a single lot for weight and volume where I weighed my Lapua brass (see below) and took 5 of the heaviest and 5 of the lightest and compared case volume, loaded and fired them to see the difference in velocities. Interesting to me, there was enough difference in velocity between the two sets to make a significant difference in vertical dispersion at distance. When I fired the other cases of the same weight, I got really good SD's and ES's and groups on target were excellent. . . and each of those two sets of outliers were different, they too performed well. Though those two sets were only 5 shots each, they were loaded and shot a second time to get a little more confirmation on the results.

So, based on what other's have found for sorting cases and what I've found in my own experience, that it does pay to weigh cases and cull out the outliers. AND. . . BTW, I also found this to be helpful for weighing primers when I did the same kind of test. :giggle: ;)
Lapua Brass weight measurements.jpg

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Aero Solus 4th of July Sale

It was well into this year, actually. Finally got my order (from before Thanksgiving) canceled around the end of February. And that was going through the CC company, because Aero sure as shit wasn't answering the fucking phone.

They might have turned the corner, maybe, maybe not. We'll see, if there are more reports of customers getting fucked over after this latest 'sale'.

Tikka T3 Thread

Does anyone know if this piece on a Tikka firing pin is available separate.
The entire assembly isn't terrible but I thought maybe save a couple bucks.

I punched a primer and it broke the little tab off that holds the shroud on, purely aesthetic but I think it looks better with the shroud on.
View attachment 8716452
No.

The firing pin will only come as assembled, as it shown in the picture.
I have asked this from the factory last year.
I was, still am iterested to do a dual spring for Tikka firing pin, like there is for Remington 700.
But not sure will it ever work, since that Tikka spring is so short, even the firing pin is so long.
Tubb design.
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House Budget Proposal to remove Tax on Suppressors but not remove it from the NFA

So why does the Form 1 include tax exempt check boxes and why is there is an entire Form 5 for tax exempt transfer and registration?

If the tax for suppressors goes away it's simple enough to add a tax exempt box to the Form 4 and the Form 1 for suppressors or add another criteria for suppressors to a Form 5.
From the Tax Exempt boxes of the Form 1:

"Tax Exempt because firearm is being made on behalf of the United States, or any department, independent establishment or agency thereof."

"Tax Exempt because firearm is being made on behalf of any State or possession of the United States, or any political subdivision thereof, or any official police organization of such a government entity engaged in criminal investigations."

One reason is that the Form 5 is used to transfer the firearm to a beneficiary upon the passing of the owner. So the tax has already been paid.

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Maggie’s Funny & awesome pics, vids and memes thread (work safe, no nudity)

That's what we have in the camper. Makes good coffee! There are a couple (that I'm aware of) drip machines that don't use plastic that contacts the water. Moccamaster & Simply Good Coffee.

Dripolator is all stainless steel with bakelite handles. Put ground coffee in the basket cover then add hot water and you have a pot of drip coffee no grounds or paper filters.
My nephew owns Oak City Coffee Roasters and is like an encyclopedia of all things coffee. He told me that Aeropress was coming out with an all stainless and glass version of their coffee press too.

Companies are realizing that consumers are moving toward healthier choices.

Shooting on BLM Land/National Forrest - Wa State

Here are a few thoughts from one who shoots on public land in the PNW:

- Know (for certain) that your shooting position / path of projectile / target are located on public land. There are a lot of ways to do this but you need to know this for certain. This may mean checking the little things like map datum to make 100% sure your map & co-ords line up with whatever source map and co-ords you're extracting data from.

- Know what public entity controls the land you're shooting on - ie is it WA State or Federal land?

- Read and understand the WA RCW (State Statutes) and WAC (rules and regs for agencies implementing statues) as they pertain to any aspect of what your doing

- Read and understand the policy regarding what you want to do based on the controlling agency's policy for the area you intend to shoot

- Understand Fire Restrictions for the area, the state, the agency - for instance you may or may not be able to shoot steel / you may or may not have to carry hand tools for fighting fire to be out in the woods / you may or may not be able to park somewhere in the woods / if convicted of starting a fire - they may try to make you pay for it, and there is probably extra incentive if the Leftists can tie it to guns.

- OK, so you've researched it and it is all good & understood. In the practical: I like to start with google earth and survey the area. I have the most success finding spots in looking at the road as it winds through an area. I am looking for a situation where the road forms a U and I am shooting across the open end of the U - usually across a draw. I prefer a situation where another car passing by on the road can not see the shooting position; and I want to park with my rig visible to me and nearby, but maybe 100 yards away from the shooting position. The target - from the road line I climb down the hill and use a mattock to dig a flat spot in the side of the hill @ 30 - 50 yards below the road line - now I have backstop.

- Hunting season - do not go out and bang round after round during the season. Folks may want to talk you about that in real time.

- One last thing: it is a public space, times are funny and you're gonna meet some folks out there occasionally. Especially if you shoot by yourself, be mindful of that. Also be mindful of the Sheriff or PissFirWillie (Fed forester) or a neighboring land owner showing up too - be able to explain in no uncertain terms that what your doing is legal and permissible based on all conditions.

Clean up all of your shit, including your brass - like you were never even there. Be safe and have fun.

PissFir, LOL, I havent heard that in a long time.