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Secret Service Eyes New 6.5mm Semi-Automatic Sniper Rifle (RFI)

How far down did you cut it? I'm considering going as far as 14.5"

16.75". I was squeamish on cutting the 20" down. No cans because IL sucks and this was a personal toy.

By the time I have enough glass and a decent stock (would probably do a PRS lite if it were today), 18-18.5" would've been just fine

I didn't keep it long. Though in the spirit of this thread, I would have liked to be 2700, but pushing a better bullet is still pushing a better bullet. Ultimately I still arrived at the same conclusion I've done many times before with shorter semi autos: A 16-18" small frame and/or a shorty bolt gun will get me where I need to go.
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Brass Annealing Guide

Question for ya all, I'm a rookie at this annealing.

So I shoot 6BR and worked up a load with good velocity and ES. I have been shooting this specific load for about 500 rounds
now, but I went to the range yesterday and noticed my velocities are about 50-60 fps faster and close to pressure with heavy bolt lift. I'm thinking maybe my brass necks are getting hard causing higher pressures???
I'm shooting same Exact load as when I worked it up.

I just got my Annealez last week and was wondering if it is too late to anneal the brass, or is this something that needs to be done every firing?
Can I bring the brass back to its happy place or is it trash?
Should I just buy new brass and start annealing every firing from here on out?
Thank you for any help.
As above, YES. . . you can "bring the brass back to its happy place". So, no. . . you don't have to trash them and get new brass.

I anneal after every firing as the sizing process is what really does the work hardening. How much work hardening your dies do depends on how much you're moving the brass. Standard FL sizing dies that are marketed tend to move the brass a lot. So, using eight custom dies or a bushing die where the necks are only reduce to ~.002 below you're final objective after expanding is a good way to reduce the amount of work hardening being done on your brass's necks.

To answer your question. . . no, you don't have to anneal after every firing. But don't let it go too long. I'd say at most, don't let it go for more than 3 firings. You'll get the most consistency doing it after every firing, though you many not notice any difference.

Just be aware, you may not be getting the necks hot enough to actually get there if you're following the typical procedure often stated in the various forums. That is. . . 650°F will not do it for the short times typically used, but 650°C can do just fine. I've been using an Annealeez for 8 years now and I found that the "glow method" is the easiest way to determine when I get to (or very close to) that 650°C. And that when the neck glows red for about 1 second (best to see that in a darkened room). With my Annealeez, that takes ~ 9 seconds for my .308 cases with neck thicknesses of .014". It's the neck I look to see glow. . .not below it, so have to be sure the flame is set up in such a way to get that. Having done hardness testing on my brass, I found this is what I had to do to get the hardness/softness I measured on my virgin Lapua brass.

Non comp 22

I've been thrilled with my Ruger American Rimfire. The barrel's hawkeye borescope was remarkable, with almost no tool marks. An uncomplicated replacement of the trigger return spring will result in a safe, crisp trigger pull of 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lbs. Mine prefers Eley Benchrest Outlaw. On a calm day, I've been obtaining 0.9 moa (0.54") five-shot groups from 60 yards.
I have looked at those a little seen some decent reviews. The waypoint 2020 looks like it would be a nice one for the price, but not many good reviews.
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Non comp 22

A lot of the recommendations you'll get here understandably are from people that live/love 18-25lb rifles purpose built for competition rimfires and it sounds like that's definitely not your use case. You're going to hear guys say you need a 1.25" 25" barrel to "balance" but that's for comp games. It is nice to have adjustability that comes with a chassis but for hunting/general use they have downsides, lots of adjustments to come loose, things to snag on, if they are metal they are cold, all things I don't want in a general use hunting gun.

So if I were you I'd look at something with a nice non-metal stock that has an adjustable cheek rest and reasonably light weight, something that's going to stay under 10lbs with an optic. 16" is fine.

Tikka UPR. - 6lbs
B14R- carbon. - 8lbs
CZ varmint at one - 7.75lbs

You could also buy a base model T1x or CZ 457 and put it in something like a Bravo etc.
Definitely would like to stay at 10-12lb range at max.

I found a few b14r carbon 18", barreled actions for 650, so same price as base tikka/cz, and regardless of which I buy it will be going a stock/chassis of sort

Trump is back…the “Now What” thread

Why do you say it has nothing to do with OPEC increasing production? It has everything to do with that - 400,000 barrels a day increase, implemented way ahead of plan. OPEC wants oil too cheap for US producers to drill, baby, drill. OPEC will cut back supply again once another Democrat is in the White House.

What is our tarrif on OPEC's oil?

Maybe we could subsidise domestic production, our guys could use the work.

It is all a cesspool of smoke, mirrors and lies.
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