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SOLD Zeiss LRP S3 6-36x56

Very lightly used scope, only to the range a handful of times. Glass is perfect. No marks. All original packaging and literature, includes scope shade and bikini caps.

$1850 obo shipped and insured to the lower 48.

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AB Quantum Major Update 3.3 + Calypso AB Mini

Another frustrating day with the “ecosystem”. The Leica Geovid Pro AB connected and transferred all the data to ABQ. I then made the Calypso AB active, it streamed wind data. I switched back to the Leica (in devices) but the Leica would never connect again. If I tapped the + sign, it would move to the top of there list but always stayed disconnected. “Forgetting” the calypso did nothing. Anyone have a suggestion?

PS—The calypso pairs with the Leica but that doesn’t seem to do anying.
Their was a recent update to the Leica device, and another one on the way is my understanding. Is your firmware for both devices up to date?

Beyond Pissed Applied Ballistics Licensing

I get what you’re saying and I’ve been in contact with Doc.

I was given “4 licenses”, “one by grace”. I outlined in my post the issues I had.

(1st License) Cheap/Crap Computer
(2nd License) iPad Pro
(3rd License) Current MacBook Pro

I’ve got so many emails with them I don’t see where a “4th License” was given but I haven’t had a new piece of tech in a few years now.

My MacBook Pro had to go back to Apple under the AppleCare because the screen went. They are saying the software says my computer is identifying as a new computer, new serial number….

I read my serial number shown in Mac. Was told that’s a different one than the one the software grabs.

Now here’s the real ticker, the said serial number is obtained BY THE SOFTWARE which then SENDS information to APPLIED BALLISTICS and needs a new key to unlock “per the government contract” and is supposed to “self destruct” if put on a thumb drive etc. ok, no f’ing way Uncle Sugar is on board with that.

I’m not sitting on a grassy knoll or trying to scam them out of shit, I just want what I paid for. I asked for Doc to help try and run down the issue and that I couldn’t be the only one. He maintains that out of ~1,800 users I am the only one needing a new license because it’s saying my computer is different.

My working theory is it’s just such a pain in the ass that others have given up.

It’s on principle. It’s on my integrity. Those are hard lines in the sand for me that you can’t put a dollar sign on.
Hello,

I am only responding to this out of clarity. Like I explained over the phone. The software is sold as $200 for 3 installs (this is clearly outlined on the store and has always been the case). You have installed it 4 times and were asking for a 5th install. I believe 5 installs on a purchase of 3 license is more than fair. Also, their was a little impatience. You called back very shortly after requesting a 5th license (you paid for only 3) before I was even able to have the internal conversation to get it approved.

Long Action feeding Short Cartridges (AICS)

But the question is which metal mag? Accurate mag offers one already set for 308 feed lips. But their follower sucks and wobbles all over because the follower isn’t CIP length. Perhaps a magnum magazine with feed lip adjustments from a place like MDT might be better.

As it stands, the market offerings (including follower/spring/spacer kits) for multi-caliber setups with long actions and CIP chassis/bottom metal is virtually non-existent and there is tons of room for improvement with magazine reliability. That said, I realize the market itself is rather small because half the small group of people interested are probably going with Barrett, AI, or Cadex anyway.

But once I have some spare time I’m planning to draw up a 3D model for a spacer for the 308 CIP accurate mag. It will just require trimming the follower back towards the spring and some test and analysis for the angle/height of a slight ramp built into the spacer.

I’m also going to look into an external front spacer for the Magpul 30-06 mag with a built in very very slight ramp that overlaps with the top of the front of the mag. I’m much less confident about that one, but will likely try it still.
What purpose would the spacer serve? Just a little food for thought:

I made a spacer kit for AW and AICS for a number of years and offered it for sale. The AICS kit was a spring, follower, and spacer and it had enough clever engineering in it that we got 2 utility patents issued on it. There was a cheap knockoff that pervaded the market because it was cheap and they were sold as a 3D printed product for a while before MDT basically copied that one and brought it to market in a turn key setup. We still sold several thousand kits based on the number of springs that I have ordered over the years.

The AW kit was resoundingly simple, it was just a spacer that used the factory flat spring and a trimmed follower to run Dasher and BR cartridges in the body. Anyone with a dremel, razor, or hacksaw could modify it. However, since it required modification of the factory follower and that modification was not reversible virtually nobody bought them even at $10 for the spacer due to not being able to turn the mag back into a standard setup.

On a long action there was no necessity in any of my personal rifles or rifles built for customers to require a spacer to properly feed 308's in a long action. It also works fine for Mausers and Tikkas as well as internal boxes. It was just needed for the super short Dashers and Grendel case bodies.

I think it was Cadex and AI that both offered a setup to change the bolt stop position and swap in a spacer for LA chassis to be able to run SA mags in a LA for swap barrel setups. Maybe Sako did as well, I don't recall for sure now. Perhaps you see a niche product slot that we didn't identify back in 2015 and 2016 when the development and patent work was being done.
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Elk Hunting Rifles, What are you Using?

Alamo Precision Rifles

Caliber: 7PRC

Barrel: Proof Research Sendero 24”

Action: APR VL

Bottom Metal: APR BDL

Trigger: Trigger Tech Special

Stock: AG Composites Carbon Fiber Ferrata

Optic: Leupold MK4 LR/T 6.5-20x50mm

Ammo: Federal Premium Terminal Ascent 170gr MV 2971fps
20220908_121910.jpg


Winchester Pre-64 FW shipped from the factory in 1954

Caliber: 300 Holland and Holland Magnum

Barrel: Winchester Featherweight OEM 26”

Action: OEM

Bottom Metal: OEM

Trigger: OEM

Stock: OEM Walnut with some internal tweaks.

Optic: Leupold Mk5 HD 3.8-18

Ammo: Handloaded (because factory loads aren't a thing) Barnes TTSX 180gr MV 2995 fps



With this load, it shoots like a custom $5k rifle. Nicknamed it Bug Spray. . . . . . . It kills on contact.

Any Auto Technicians Here?

1) There is no "central computer" on a modern car; in fact, quite the opposite (it's a distributed network).

2) Many of those modules are indeed pretty frickin important. Because of this, virtually every electronic module is protected against reverse voltage (-14VDC for 60 sec per ISO 16750-2 4.7) and either will not draw current (diodes are a remarkable invention) or will pop fuses as protection.

Alternators are notable exceptions - maybe the fusible link pops, or maybe one or more rectifier diodes blow (we joke that this is desirable in order to protect the fuse).

Since he didn’t tell us what it is or year… I didn’t assume Canbus…. But I get your point.

That said, I had a wonderful 1998 MB 300SL. The last of the straight six wedge drop tops. It does over the winter and so I sent to the dealer to start it. They must have jumped it wrong because their explanation was “all 5 computers failed simultaneously and sorry, it is 2 weeks out of MB Certified used warranty. That will be $5k please.

The Conti-R Bentley I had and sold last year… if you jump started it with the drivers dooor open, it would fry the main computer. New ones in 1998 were $30,000. Fortunately there is now a guy in NJ who uses a Subaru computer, wipes it and puts in new code. So if you zorch your Turbo Bentley it’s only a cheap $5k or so now!

But, yeah, probably todays cars are better protected.

That said, I never even attached a trickle charger without taking the battery posts off! And cut off the main switch before reconnecting. Paranoia runs deep!!!
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