padom said:

I took the chance on 1000ct then they emailed saying they messed up inventory on my 224 85gr order so they replaced them with another 1000ct 107s and then I ordered another 4 boxes...

I took a chance and they measure in length exactly to my factory 107smk's I have here, factory pointed new style and no gouges or anything. Great deal

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That's good to hear. I was hesitant to buy some but gave in and ordered the last 5 boxes. They should be on the way to me soon. Hopefully it won't get caught in an order snafu like you had.

Well, 1 mil at 100 is about 3.36". 2 mils at 100 is roughly 7". So, 2 mils at 50 is roughly 3.5" and at 25, roughly 1.75"; so, yeah, sounds about right to me.

And heed the words from the wise. Don't try to convert. You paid for the reticle. Trust it.

FatBatman said:

What is the oal you load to. I have had issue like this with not enough bullet in the neck.

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I've not had this issue due to not enough bullet in the neck, at least . . . bit with the .308's and 6.5 PRC is load to. I tend to load long, as I start out at .010 off the lands. Often, I easily only have just .200 - .217 of the neck holding onto the bearing surface. I should mention too that I due turn my .308 cases down to .014" thick, which will help them expand a little faster.

JRBullock1987 said:

I always make sure that most if not all of the bullet is in contact with the whole neck.

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As long as you're not engaging the bearing surfaces with the donut area, that works just time. Because I tend to a load where the donut area is never an issue and it lessens the interference between the surface of the neck and the bullet. I haven't found any particular advantage to having a lot that contact with the neck.

I normally wouldn't disagree with all of the comments about crappy ammo, but I know for a fact that Barnaul steel cased HPs are capable of some very good accuracy. I get anywhere from just under MOA to about 1.5 with Wolf HPs out of my Ruger American Ranch.

What twist rate is your barrel? What is the diameter of the bore? Somega barrels have a .308 bore and some have a .311 bore. Some ammo has .308 projectiles and some have .311 projectiles.

7.62x39 is just a big pain in the butt. With the exception of my Ruger American, and the stock of ammo I have for it, I've abandoned x39 in favor of 300BO. Not quite the thump, but it makes life a lot easier.

Rockabilly before it was known as rockabilly:

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Lange Carabine said:

See what I see?

View attachment 8657609View attachment 8657610
View attachment 8657611View attachment 8657612View attachment 8657607

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5 drops of MMO in your cam pin every 250 rounds will solve that problem.

Oh hell i see the crack now.
I thought you were showing that pile of carbon.

If you were running thecMMO that wouldn't have happened

akmike47 said:

So there you go, you aren’t thinking of the right kind of study. It’s not a guy reading books making conclusions, it’s you hooked to a computer being personally monitored on a case to case basis.

no one who knows anything at all claims CPAPs cure sleep apnea, they are a treatment. You use treatment and cure interchangeably and it’s two different things.

Yes, you visiting the doctor and watching videos makes you the authority not the guy who went to school passed with more than a perfect score(extra credit questions in final) and worked in the field


me saying I don’t go to the doctor is saying I don’t trust them so you know.

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I am not using treatment and cure interchangably.
I am aware cure and treat are different things.

If a doctor cures a patient, he can no longer treat him, thus he can no longer extract money from that patient.

DeathBeforeDismount said:

11.5" with a short can is perfection.

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I don't if you saw that thread here about deals on Armalite barrels, but I grabbed a few 11.5 HBars. I threw one together with the intention of running a Cobalt Kinetics titanium, direct thread can. If you aren't familiar with that can, check it out. It weighs 6 oz. Should make for a nice setup with an overall barrel length of about 15".

Milspec Longhorn said:

I have both. To me the advantage for 12.5 is dwell time for full time suppressed and in theory mid gas

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I totally get what you're saying about using a can to add dwell time. I've given it some thought myself with using a Polonium in mind, but I want a lighter rig.

No, that's not it, but I like where you're going

1) Allow the concrete to cure at least 90 days before coating
2) Neutralize with muriatic acid and rinse well, let dry
3) I recommend an epoxy amine over an epoxy amide coating. The issue is epoxy amines are not available to the public in stores such as home depot/lowes...
4) Read and follow the instructions.

Cheap and easy do not last long.

Bump

Also remember about footing/slipperiness of whatever you wind up putting down.

All those aircraft spotless shiny hangar floors you see at private FBO’s are a mixed bag— they are great light reflectivity and clean, easy to spot. But the ones that haven’t had a grit substrate added in the epoxy are a slippery fall nightmare when any liquid gets on them. I have worked on enough of them where I now dread going into a “showcase hangar” wondering what I am going to slip on.

Also, another thing about epoxy, it doesn’t do anything to prevent concrete pad cracking. Neither do the garage floor squares, but they will “float” above the cracks that will eventually come and still look good.

If you are dead set on epoxy, here is another commercial brand used where I work on new bays:

Nik H said:

The guy is 5 feet tall...LOL

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Needs to be a head shorter

Wanna play the rape game .
Her : No !!!
That's the spirit .

Great guy to deal with

Bump with price drop again

This is what I use.

Do these show range in amr only or is there a line of sight option?

Thanks!

Wouldn't surprise me if he didn't have a wife or in the process of loosing one.

I have had great results for 20+ years in my shop.

The only product I use is TNEMEC

Think cement spelled backwards.

Their 2 part epoxy is Awesome!

Make sure you give that new concrete adequate to to cure/gas off, how long I don’t know but it is a consideration.

Also you MUST wear a respirator when applying even with good ventilation, trust me on that.