Filter

Why do people load so hot?

Another consideration is bullet upset. Not necessary in target games, but more important in Hunting situations. I know of several mono metal manufacturers that recommend keeping impact velocity above 1700 - 1800 fps. If you are wanting that bullet to perform correctly at a given distance, it will need to be moving pretty fast at the muzzle.

This example would need a significant velocity boost to be effective beyond 350yds. With the previously stated upset velocity.
View attachment 8751060
To expand on the discussion, this was with my 223 running FGGM,55g bullet. if I’m wanting to shoot farther and have bullet upset, I’ll use the 22-250 with the same bullet.

SOLD Desert Tech SRS W/ Vortex Gen3 Razor 6-36

*Full disclosure, this rifle belongs to a friend who is not a member. I have it in my possession, I took the photos, and I'll vouch for the transaction.

Excellent condition Desert Tech SRS currently configured in .338 Lapua with the sought after Short Action Customs 26" barrel. The barrel has roughly 100 rounds through it and is an absolute hammer. Genuine .25 moa rifle. I witnessed a friend who is a better shot than I put 5 shots in a .6" group @400yds with 300g lapuas handloads.

Rifle is in excellent condition and the Gen 3 Razor is literally brand new. Optic is the FFP EBR-7D MOA reticle and is mounted in a Nightforce 1.5" 20 MOA unimount. Rifle has not been shot since this optic was mounted. Groups were shot with a GEN 2 Razor that was previously mounted. Seller decided he'd rather concentrate on 6.5 as hard as it is to find somewhere to stretch the .338 in Central KY.

Also included is the DTA Cleaning kit with barrel change torque wrench, .308 bolt (no barrel or magazine), and GG&G Heavy duty XDS Bipod. Asking $6300 shipped CONUS

IMG_7385.jpg
IMG_7386.jpg
IMG_7395.jpg
IMG_7390.jpg
IMG_7391.jpg
IMG_7396.jpg
IMG_7392.jpg
IMG_7393.jpg
IMG_7387.jpg
IMG_7389.jpg
  • Like
Reactions: Sin Nombre

Gunsmithing What are you guys using now days to clean and lube?

I 180deg off all these guys. The old ways are the best ways. Not "safe" or wonderful to breathe acetone, but cleans down to the metal in one pass. Not safe to drink or bathe in either. I just want it to work and shorten or eliminate the time spent scrubbing, then protect it till the next time I'm shooting. All I've used all my life, and I can't sleep at night if my guns aren't completely clean. I'll lie awake thinking about it.

My recipe for Ed's Red:
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits,
1 part Acetone
1 part Kroil
1 part anhydrous Lanolin

I don't even know how many years ago I made the last batch, but there is still like a half gallon left and I shoot all the time. One batch will last years and years, but you have to keep it sealed because the acetone is a super-volatile and will evaporate. Most of this stuff is probably already in your garage, and you just have to measure it out.

I DO NOT use it on plastic fantastic parts, as I know it cuts wad residue in shotguns, so probably melts most plastic. The most expensive thing in it is probably the Kroil. You can buy a can of whatever for $20 or $30 or make a gallon that will last you years and years. I keep it in the shop in the small needle tip bottles used for head cement in fly tying. It doesn't react with whatever plastic that is...

, and glass dauber bottles.
View attachment 8751762



If it's a gun I don't shoot often it gets waxed with Renaissance Wax.

I'm sure all these aerosol products work, but not any better than my stuff. Paint it on, wait a couple of minutes, wipe it off. One wet patch, wait a few minutes and follow it with few dry ones. Done, and completely clean.

Only thing it won't do is copper fouling...then Sweets 7.62 for me.
  • Like
Reactions: Camelfilter