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AR Tuning question

I don't know. In theory I agree with this. But I've spent the last decade assembling gaming rifles tuned to the max for the sole reason that people on the internet say they won't work.
In practice I can't prove any of the unreliability, finicky when dirty, temp sensitive etc. things that are always said about gamer guns.
I understand that the operational window of my primary match rifle with its 16" RLGS barrel, titanium carrier, low powered spring and .3oz delrin "buffer" and gas turned down to just lock back should be small. But well over 30k rounds in all temperatures, at ranges that are basically constant dust storms, with cleaning intervals well over 2k rounds shouldn't work great, but it does.

I'm sure the fact that I have two loads I shoot, a light 55gr load and a hot 69gr load (used to be a hot 77gr) the guns are tuned for that ammo and I never shoot anything else, must help.
But I've also loaned it out at matches and watched people throw all sorts of cheap ammo through it and it just keeps running.
Again, in theory I understand it is "less reliable" than anything closer to mil spec, but I can't seem to find out where that failure point exists.
I have even weirder configurations of rifles that also refuse to fail, but they don't have the round count on them for me to definitively say they are absolutely rock solid.
I don't doubt this at all and it's a testament to what I've been saying for years. An AR doesn't need to be clean to run right. How often do you apply lube? Many configurations will continue to run if you keep the action wet.

I suppose the definition of "adverse conditions" can differ. My definition of adverse conditions go far beyond a range setting wherein the worst you have to deal with is dust in the air.

The goal of the way I put my ARs together is to allow the use of the rifle without the need for field maintenence and applying lube more because I should rather than needing to because the rifle stopped running. Dust is an adverse factor, what is worse is sand, which I encounter a good bit of. Worse than sand is rain and mud. I've had my action to a point where cycling the action was downright crunchy and peeling that first round off of a topped off metal mag required the use of the forward assist. Simply put, I want to be able to run my rig without having to worry about it.

I've tried going light mass, low gas, and it just doesn't work for me.

Thanks I will keep it on a short leash and have a complete bcg with std rings with me to swap in if Im still short stroking. Pretty sure I have narrowed down the issue to the mix and match bolt and carrier.

Haha I like the idea of a little mistake shelf for reminders of time/money wasted, great move!

I haven't followed this thread or your issue very closely, but seriously, seeing that one piece gas ring I know exactly what the very next diagnostic move would be if I were you.
I agree with this. Those one piece rings don't work like they should. Just order a bunch of standard rings from a reputable vendor. Contrary to the rest of their menu, the maintenence items from Forward Controls Designs are very reasonable priced.
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LAPUA TRX .264 6.5MM 120GR

Gavin shilled again and shot gel at knife-throwing distance (again). It is getting to the point where there are more Youtube comments about why he isn't shooting gel at actual hunting distances in his bullet reviews than anything else. It will eventually come back to bite him as more people recognize that all of his "INSANE" videos are just paid advertisements.

That isn't to take away from Lapua though. Hasn't the Naturalis been out since 2002 (according to Lapua)? This just looks like a tipped version with bands for the copper to flow... pretty heavily influenced by the Barnes TTSX.

Never killed anything with the Lapua stuff, but I'm sure it works. I've probably killed ~150 hogs and ~30 coyotes with 3-4 versions of the Barnes TTSX... It is a phenomenal bullet. Lapua might have tighter tolerances though. I welcome more options, so good on them for the update.

I don't really get much of an opinion on a hunting bullet until I've killed at least a dozen animals with it. The 'small sample size' works here too. I've had bullets start off great the first 3-5 animals, and then get multiple poor performers in a row.
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Auto "wax"...

I’ve been snooping around the detailing scene for a while. I’m no pro and I don’t even have time to really detail my cars(I have 3 kids). This is what I’ve found so far.

Start with products from one or two of the bigger manufacturers. They will have the widest product range that will be engineered to work together. The big bucket kits will be fine for a little bit but if this bug bites you they will fall short pretty fast. I’m partial to German products so I have stuff from SONAX and Menzerna. If you go full retard get on a detailing forum and YouTube to soak up as much info as possible

Wash: I have a cheap electric power washer(on pretty good sale from Sam’s Club) that has a foam cannon attachment. Foam, scrub with wash mit, rinse, dry with good towel or blow dry

Decontaminate: Spray and rinse with fallout cleaner. Clay bar to get everything off the paint

Correction: I have a cheap Amazon copy of the Rupes da polisher. I don’t need it for 10 cars a week so el cheapo is the way for me. You do need good pads but any of the big names will be fine. The widest variety of products in the detailing world are polishes and waxes. I have Menzerna 3 in 1 that is one of the best do-everything polishes out. If you need a more aggressive compound any of the big names will have it. Wipe down with 10:1 water:isopropyl alcohol to get everything off of the paint

Last step protection: This is either ceramic coating or sealant/wax. Choose one and stick with it. Ceramic coatings range from affordable and easy for the diy detailer to professionally applied and $$$$$. I went the sealer/wax direction and have a bottle of Collinite 845(detailing hidden secret) but will get different waxes in time. Some lsp’s last longer than others. Some give different finishes. Experiment

Plastic trim: What good is a shiny polish/wax job if your plastic trim looks like shit? Find one you like and use it whenever you need to

Wheel cleaner: All the big names have one. Get some good brushes and use whichever one you get correctly. Some can mess up a rim if you aren’t careful

Interior: This is definitely not as fun or cool as talking about polishes and waxes, the exception may be leather/vinyl seat and trim care. But, vacuum & scrub carpet. Glass cleaner. Various interior cleaners. This is actually where the bigger manufacturers have an edge. A significant portion of my detailing shit is SONAX interior cleaners. Be as basic or go as ham as you like

Microfiber towels: There are So. Fucking. Many. types of microfiber towels. Don’t get caught in the hype. Buy some good drying towels and the rest can be just basic microfibers. But you will need a large pile of them, trust me

You’re welcome or I’m sorry
Damn. TLDR . I had to scroll back to check if that was a lucky duck post.

Auto "wax"...

Is this a trailer queen award winning show car? No? Go buy some ammo, a rifle or something else to have fun with. The day you sign the title it's already depreciated way more than a shiny finish will pay back. Sinking more time and money into it just makes you more upside down.
Take the money and get your wife or girlfriend a boob job. People will pay more attention to that and you will have a benefit to the money spent.