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.308 Winchester

Hornady bushing dies work well. I use them with my 6ARC. The others work also. I still have some of both and they do the job. With any of them you setting up the shoulder bump and using the right bushing for proper neck tension will be the most important things. Also most come with an expander ball and a thin ball to just hold the depriming pin in. Use the thin ball as you don’t want to set neck tension and then drag a ball back through opening it up.
Yeah that's how I've always set mine up.
I've only used Redding in the past but can't get a FL bushing die locally (not in the US), but Hornady are available.

Another option would be to remove/grind down the expander ball and then run a mandrel through.
I've never used a mandrel before as typically use a bushing die with good brass (Lapua).

Maggie’s Motivational Pic Thread v2.0 - - New Rules - See Post #1

Yodels.... For whatever reason, The "Drakes Cakes" company got much more TV Ad time in my AO in the PRNJ than did the Hostess Company. Drakes was founded in NYC, and I think they had a huge bakery in Wayne, NJ. Therefore, I knew about "Ring Dings" before I'd heard about "Ding Dongs." I knew "Cup Cakes" as the first Hostess product, and then Twinkies. The others came shortly thereafter.
Better living through chemistry...h that was Dupont. Is there a difference?

Barrel Torque Ludicrocity

Harold Vaughn's Rifle Accuracy Facts, yes.

I was not considering anything about the number of cycles but rather the case of a fired round exerting a load on the threaded joint that exceeds the preload applied as Aaron Davidson stated occurs even with over 100 ft/lb torque on a barrel. If we agree the joint is moving when the force of a fired round exceeds that of the pre-load, would tighter fitting threads or "ramp threads" as outlined in Vaughn's book help encourage the barrel to come back to the same location after the load from the fired round is gone?
The preload on the joint must exceed the applied load during the load cycle in order to maintain joint stability. The way to do this is to use the calculated factor

T=k*F*d
where
T is torque
k is a fitting factor that changes for the type of thread, quality, lubrication and elasticity of the materials that are threaded
F is the joint preload
d is the fastener diameter at the thread pitch diameter

For a threaded joint, fine thread class, lubricated and steel the K factor is typically 0.08-0.11

The units have to match so we need to convert T from ft-lb into in-lb or we need D to convert from inches into feet. Let's turn 100ftlb into 1200inlb instead since it's easy

T=1200inlb
k=0.08
F=?
d=1.0275 (nominal mean PD for 1-1/16x20 Class 3A, I happened to know this one by memory)

Solving for Force
F=T/(k*D)=1200/(0.08*1.0275)=14,598.5 lb force

A 473 case head operates at approximately 8500lb of axial load on the joint and a 532 magnum is about 12000lb peak then we can see that the 100ft lb mark is acceptable for this criteria based on the guidelines in Machinery's Handbook. This is a standard approach for aircraft structures as well.

When I tested the theory I couldn't get anything to change above about 60 ft lbs as I mentioned above. When you calculate the firing force vs. banging the gun off something accidentally the firing force is notably higher.

Stolen gun via mail

I had something similar happen earlier this year. Made a trade for 2 pistols. The member shipped the guns to me through his FFL insured.

Guns made it part of the way to me to a distribution center and then stopped. After a few days of no movement I spoke to the post master on my end and the sellers FFL did the same in their end. Started a claim with the post office and after about a few week we filed for the insurance which started an investigation of some sorts and eventually the guns where found, supposedly with damaged labels or something and where diverted to post office lost and found center.

Whole process took almost 3 months but everything arrived safely in the end.

Very important to have crystal clear communication between you and buyer during this. Setup weekly updates or what ever works for you guys so the buyer doesn’t feel like you’re ghosting them. Crappy situation but stuff happens. And if you have insurance on the gun, file that as soon as possible.
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.308 Winchester

So I'm fairly new to reloading. Less than 2 years. I don't recall what I had read and researched back then. However, something had led me to believe that bushing dies "might" impose some potential issues, maybe donuts. I don't recall.

Another theory, a bushing will make the OD uniform, thus leaving any inconsistencies on the neck thickness to be transferred to the ID. This is what's in direct contact with your bullet so I would prefer the ID inconsistencies be ironed out and pushed out to the OD.

Even though I'm not very experienced, my results have been pretty good. I have also not proved or disproved the things I read online. I think even if you use a bushing die, considering your process is good and components are good, you should be able to get adequate results.

That’s all BS about bushing dies. I have been using bushing dies in multiple calibers for over 20 years and load very accurate ammo. Look around the internet and you will find someone saying the way you do it is wrong also. The internet is like that. You have to find what works for you and use it. I use what give me excellent results and is the least amount of work. Why I stopped deburring the flash holes.

I checked the weight and length of once fired brass, 10x Sako 9x Hornady 20x S&B.
The S&B brass is definitely all over the place when it comes to weight and length compared to the other two brands.
The SD/ES of the brass weights were as follows:
Sako: 0.46/1.4
Horn: 0.7/2.3
S&B: 0.9/3.1

I'm going to get a bushing die also, resizing some brass today the expander ball felt like shit on many of the case.
Much better on the Hornaday and Sako brass, but I really don't think that's helping either.

Do you rate the Hornady bushing dies, or do I just go straight for Redding/Forster?

Hornady bushing dies work well. I use them with my 6ARC. The others work also. I still have some of both and they do the job. With any of them you setting up the shoulder bump and using the right bushing for proper neck tension will be the most important things. Also most come with an expander ball and a thin ball to just hold the depriming pin in. Use the thin ball as you don’t want to set neck tension and then drag a ball back through opening it up.