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Dirty D · Jul 10, 2025

Threadcutter308 said:
View attachment 8725329

Care to re-think yer actions ?

Thanks boo, you made me squirt.

Fig · Jul 10, 2025

Germany is worse.

Natty_iCED · Jul 10, 2025

Bought a used Solus action and pulled the ejectors to headspace a barrel and the roll pin is trash. Anybody know what size the pin is? It's falling apart so I can't get a measurement.

I sent an email to Aero but who knows if I'll hear back.

EddieNFL · Jul 10, 2025

Mike Casselton said:
Not at all. 84-87 (SOC) never touched it.
87-91 (SAC) Never touched it.

Once SAC changed to ACC during the McPeak years, we had to start playing silly reindeer games.
Sad times...
Left Ellsworth in 95 and went to Mtn Home and had to play even more. Same with the year at Kunsan

I went back to Ellsworth in 2000.
I can't recall putting it on between then and '04 when I retired. Good times.

Once past the Carter years and we started training, I spent more time in MOPP 4 than I care to remember. I did pull a year with a staff job in 7th AF in Korea. Anytime a phase II was on the books, I scheduled a SAV at another location.

bmin88 · Jul 10, 2025

More Pics

Brown & Sharpe Bestest .0001” indicator - $130 shipped Sold

This is a brand new 7032-5 indicator — it was sent as a replacement for another that was deemed irreparable. It comes w/ the case & accessories of the old indicator.

Starrett 2-3” micrometer - $180 shipped

These have .0001” graduations & carbide faces — they are well used and have been laser engraved w/ a personnel # on the frame, but still in very good condition.

Starrett 3-4” micrometer - $200 shipped

Same as above, just the larger size range.

** $360 shipped for both **

Starrett 0-6” depth micrometer set - $200 shipped Sold

These are well used, but in very good condition. Personnel # is laser engraved and they come in the original case w/ box as well.

Discreet Zelle or PayPal F&F preferred

PM before posting here to avoid scammers — I will not PM first

wind gypsy · Jul 10, 2025

tagging in as well.

Which one is longer? Do either accept spigots?

I'm considering going this direction too and would like whichever gives more real estate for the fore-end on props with a bipod and allows weight to be added further forward. Edit: answered my own question. Looks like nearly the same length and no-go on spigot for both.. The pro fore end seems to be the one a guy would want but its twice the price i've paid for every bravo i've owned haha!

scrumpdeleos · Jul 10, 2025

Twreed said:
Dam. Terrible timing. I don’t need a gun right now but that Zeus is exactly what I want. I’ll take it. PM coming

replied.

EDIT: SOLD TO THIS GUY ^^^^

Dirty D · Jul 10, 2025

sig2009 · Jul 10, 2025

Im2bent said:
Just got a notification from midway that rutumbo is discontinued and will no longer be available?

Not discontinued. Midway does this crap all the time.

Dirty D · Jul 10, 2025

Jefe's Dope said:

That’s me eyeballing Turdcutter308

@Threadcutter308

noack920 · Jul 10, 2025

AMG04 · Jul 10, 2025

I've always liked a German #4 design for hunting, and the IHR is nicely done with center only illumination.

With it being a SFP scope I don't need all the modern reticles with 0.2 Mil holds and obnoxious illuminated Christmas trees.

This is going on a hunting rifle where shots will never exceed 300 yards.

2.5-10 with simple reticle is all I need.

redneckbmxer24 · Jul 10, 2025

rjacobs said:
Get some expanding anchors and use those with long bolts or all thread instead of just rebar stuck in holes... Secure those bolts/all thread to your wire or a simple square loop of rebar in your form with a tack weld or 3... that small pad will never be able to be pulled up without also destroying the original floor.

You will NEVER get new concrete to bond with old, especially really old concrete. Dont waste your time IMO. Mechanically secure it and be done.

Get you a couple 80 lbs bags of quick-crete, mix em up, pour em in and rough finish it with a cheap ass trowel.

All of this, rebar in drilled holes won’t hold shit. You don’t need to tack it though, the concrete will bond to the anchors holding it down and the rebar/mesh is just to give the slab strength. If you want added strength get the stud kind of anchors and after you run the nut down to expand it take two more nuts and thread on and tighten them together a few inches up.

I don’t know why you want to put plastic down but it isn’t going to do shit other than cause a moisture barrier that works both ways. You’re also just going to tear it up and drill holes through it to anchor the safe. Same with carpet, there’s no point as it will just hold moisture against the safe. If you want added protection then paint the bottom of the safe with a few thick coats of POR-15 and set it right on top of your slab.

Longshot231 · Jul 10, 2025

mattp8893 · Jul 10, 2025

22-250 and 22-250 ai sold

Longshot231 · Jul 10, 2025

Grand · Jul 10, 2025

Why is the IHR reticle sought after?

softcock · Jul 10, 2025

roostercogburn98 said:
Fake, there is no list. Didn’t you listen to them when they told you this on public news

Posted on the internet a few handpicked names of ' the List' , The list that is the pilots manifest and copies of, as required by FAA reg. on passengers and cargo ???
.

nkk · Jul 10, 2025

This is what winning looks like lol

Fig · Jul 10, 2025

theLBC said:
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I’m surprised she’s not a high paid trial attorney.

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