I had the Ph2 in 7PRC. Damn nice rifle, GLWS, free bump.

Fig said:

Oh please. No soldier doesn't say his prayers at night and hope his enemy looks and acts like those worthless rejects.

"This wasn’t some sloppy stunt or lone nutcase trying to make a name for themselves. These terrorists came armed with rifles, body armor, radios, escape vehicles, and the whole nine yards. And when all was said and done, a local police officer was shot in the neck. Thank God, he survived."

How do two squads in full battle rattle with murder in their hearts, with the element of complete surprise, manage to wound a depity and all get captured? I mean, yea, they're terrorists because they intend to do violence to effect politics, but man, they are so worthless and pathetic it almost seems wrong to designate Aunt Tiffa terrorists. Like you're almost contributing to their cosplay delusions.

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You need the terrorist designation so they can send the fbi after them. Then they can charge all members for crimes committed by any other members, like RICO. I believe this is correct.

chevy_man said:

There's a ton of drive by wire throttle bodies, I wouldn't use GM because of the size. I'd think you'd need much bigger to feed a large blower at 2000hp.

The most successful traction control device I've seen is the profiler.

https://moretraction.com/drag-race/profiler/

Which controller are you using for the engine?

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Holley Dominator
MSD Pro600


Im not switching to an OEM throttle body as I'd prolly need 5 of them to equal what the blower already has.

The blower has a pair of throttle plates. Each is almost the size of a common smartphone.


What I've done is purchase a couple 2015 era GM pickup throttle bodies. I've torn them apart and modeled the chassis in SolidWorks. The idea is to transfer all of the stuff from the OEM housing to my new one. The shaft receives a bell crank and is then linked to the blower with a couple of small heim joints and a linkage.

I am hoping to control/operate what is already there, not swap over to a different throttle body/plate.

Edsel said:

That’s the thing, see.

It’s the content of your posts and the threads that got deleted as a result.

You don’t even remember the stuff you’ve posted.

But I’m glad you’ve recognized the trend.

Be more cognizant of it - this may lead to problems for you down the road.

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This post is perfect evidence of what sort of rotten scum you are. You originally called me a liar, and said I didn't remember lying. The reality is that you made the entire thing up. When you realized you were lying, you came back and edited your post to attempt to mitigate face full of egg you're wearing. You are a truly despicable human being.

Broncovan said:

They don't race on the Payette or Clearwater. Timezone doesn't have trees like that along the road there. If you watch the turbine boat video on the run back down the river, it doesn't look like that at Time Bridge.
It could have been over on the Snake, somewhere way downstream from Pittsburgh Landing.

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Riggins Idaho is on the Salmon River

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot said:

I rigged a low oil pressure switch to a shift light pointed right at my eyes. After an oil pump failure that I just happened to catch before airing out the engine.

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With us, its automatic.

If it dips below a predetermined level, it pulls timing and keeps it pulled. Fuel pressure is also managed this way.

Modern engine management hardware and the programming makes it pretty easy to set a car up as non suicidal.

GreenGO Juan said:

Since your oil pump is belt drive, consider tuning a low pressure safety that will kill the engine incase it chucks the belt.

Tuning a "throttle by wire" throttle body could work. Tracking drive shaft speed co related to front wheel speed to close the throttle body when the drive shaft exceeds the front wheel speed curve. Or if strictly drag racing, just pull a ton of timing out of the launch, not necessarily a 2 step.

Many of the pro drift cars tune the throttle to close at higher RPM to keep the engine off the rev limiter.

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That (those) boxes are already checked. (DS and front wheel sensors)

The car is on a Dominator. I'm logging just about everything you can on this thing.

Fuel psi
Oil psi
Oil temp
head temp
EGT (8x)
manifold psi
crankcase psi
shock motion
DS rpm
front tire rpm
O2s x 2
Trans pai
Trans temp

I can't do IATs though. Tried that. Nobody makes a temp sensor that'll function at +450*F. PD blowers work great as a space heater. Lol

The other 2 engines had an intercooler. Id turn 7lbs of ice cubes into "cool" water in 5-1/2 seconds. After a lot of debating and chastising from known/credible methanol racers, I begrudgingly removed it. I learned that the methanol tuning window is so broad that when temps go up, you just add fuel. If you have the ignition to light it, you'll still make good power.

I have an MSD Pro600. Fuel is a 16 injector setup. ID2600s on the intake and 800lb/hr Billet Atomizers behind the throttle plates. The pump is a 12gpm Aeromotive.


Going back a few years:

My street car is also a GTO. A 2004. Thst has a 421 LS7 type setup with a 3.0L Whipple on it. The only way Ive ever gotten a decent hit in that car on street rubber is by pulling 12 degrees, holding just enough throttle to bring it on the 2s, followed by rolling my foot into it off the T brake. I try to time it so my foot is all the way down as the lights leave my peripheral.

6.40@109mph on a 10" slick. 4300lb car.


The idea on this car is born from that, the only difference being now the throttle motion is managed with software. (Holley Dominator ECU)

*This is the 3rd engine I've done for this car. The 1st 2 were timing controlled and it was tough to manage the torque. A PD type screw charger is quite violent compared to a much softer hitting turbo or turbo style blower.)


Ramping it in and holding it steady (t brake depressed) without it clacking off the 2 step being the desired outcome.

Not squirting a mess of fuel into the cylinders, oil, etc, unnecessarily being a nice 2ndary benefit. Methanol makes a mess of the oil in a hurry.

We'll see. Still lots to do...

Aftermath said:

I was thinking same...maybe Payette? Clearwater has roads on both sides most of the way from Kamiah but that terrain doesn't really look like the Clearwater until near Lewiston.

EDIT: to say Time Zone Bridge!!!

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They don't race on the Payette or Clearwater. Timezone doesn't have trees like that along the road there. If you watch the turbine boat video on the run back down the river, it doesn't look like that at Time Bridge.
It could have been over on the Snake, somewhere way downstream from Pittsburgh Landing.

MLOK "looks" better, Keyslot IS better, and Keymod is trash.

I'll take these OG if it's available...

Mulepackhunter said:

Prototype this week with weight and photo. Waiting in the lathe to open up for production.
What do you think about cerekote on the cap/collar and leave the plug raw Ti ?

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I’m not concerned with aesthetics, and tend to be a function over form type so whatever you decide will be fine.

I will need one slight but crucial modification in bore diameter. Mine will be going on the 375 version with the purpose of hunting dangerous game in Africa. Hopefully this won’t be an issue?

July 4 sale ends tomorrow!

Sure. Make me an offet

zr600 said:

Ok I got mine working pretty good now. Turned it on today and started the calibration process then started throwing 33.3 of varget and all were spot on but a couple over throws at 33.34 rest were all good. Speed is great I mean if you are doing charges and anything else the charges are done first. Didn’t time them. So I think the initial over charges were just a fluke or it needed to be run more. It’s proably still thrown less then a 100 charges. Anybody got ideas for a handle for the shot glass?

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I use

with the attached STL in the zip file. It works great and pours nicely. No problems with bounce outs and fits the base perfectly.

Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best.

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