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Badlands "Shell Shock" 5.56 - snake oil?

Nah, not crazy at all. I'm sure I've posted multiple times on here that up to a point speed beats BC every day. Being a longer range precision oriented forum I think a lot of guys just naturally gravitate towards the heavy bullets and it never occurs to them to give the light stuff a fair shake.
Is there some sort of software out there that can calculate the range at which a particular load with a heavier bullet will meaningfully begin to outperform a load with a lighter bullet?

I've just usually defaulted to heavier rounds because the range I go to for longish distance shooting is very near the Gulf of Mexico and the wind is always blowing. 10-15 mph winds are common and heavier winds happen pretty often.

Geez, I love to shoot. I should start taking a more analytical approach to it. I might get more out of it.

fix it sticks recomendations?

The wheeler is great for scopes, mounts, anything under 40inch lb. But if you need to go to 65 inch lb, like on a AI barrel, or 80 inch lb like on an SRS barrel, then no go. It's different use case. If you don't have a switch barrel rifle then wheeler is fine.
I have been thinking about upgrading to Fix it Sticks for a while, but my Wheeler torque driver has not let me down yet. I'm sure the Fix it Sticks are more precise.

Maggie’s Motivational Pic Thread v2.0 - - New Rules - See Post #1

This guy autism’s


Rail fans are DEFINITELY different. Their talent seems to lie in absolute meticulous attention to even the smallest details. Some of them can merely glance at a mixed freight passing by at rather high speed, point to a seemingly ordinary flatbed car and tell you "this unit here, Number XXXX, was built right before Pearl Harbor and was used to haul Studebaker trucks for shipment to the USSR as part of the Lend Lease"... And then you look up that number, out of sheer curiousity, and hoooly cow... :ROFLMAO:

Then there are the folks who turn entire basements, rooms, museum lobbies, etc into full scale layouts of actual Class I rail lines in HO or G scale and the communities they run through. EVERYTHING down to exact detail. Even the latest burger joint right across a lot from a crossing on Maple Street. Handmade, hand painted. Windows that actually light up from the inside. And miniature diners sitting inside, in various positions of eating and drinking. Whoah is an understatement...
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fix it sticks recomendations?

I’ll chime in. I like the individual torque things. I also own the bigger AIO and I find it fussy, especially if I’m using it at the range in winter when it’s 10°F.

I too passed on the fixit bag. I use this one:
$35. It’s two for one (of equal value). It has slots for small wrenches, some full-size screwdrivers; it has interior zippers, it’s great.
View attachment 8673816
View attachment 8673814
View attachment 8673815
Not my pics…

And for bit storage, this thing rocks. It holds (and releases) bits even when it’s -20°F but never dumps them. $2.75
View attachment 8673817

Plus Harry Epstein fucking ROCKS. Check out all their USA tool brands. Obv nothing to do with Jeffrey…

For the individual fixit torque things, this sort of organizer is nice.
View attachment 8673820
A whopping $1.12

I used something similar that I got for free.
that's nearly identical too the set up I have. I put a bag together for both the AIAX and the SRS. I have Seekonk and Borka. As long as it slips at the right weight im happy.
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Weird Eley Match Lot#

Any of you guys work in a production environment? Just because it is the same lot # means nothing if the run was started on one shift and ended with another. Nothing is done exactly the same when you have different people making the same thing. One guy will let something run on the high end of spec and the next guy will be on the low end.

I worked in a forging company and watched really good tight tolerance parts being made. Then the next shift comes in and it is a mess what they ran. Then the plant manager comes by and overrides a qc hold because he hopes the bad parts will not be caught at the company we sent them to.

M40 badger vs dd rail

Is there any difference between the badger and dd Ross rail for clip slotted rifles? I have the badger, but wondering if I need the Ross for my m40a3 with the Ross bottom metal
There's lot's of physical differences, but the only one that really matters is the size of the rear lug. If you fit the receiver for a Badger base with a smaller rear lug, then a DD Ross base won't be able to drop into the Badger receiver cuts. If you fit the receiver for a DD Ross base with a larger rear lug, then a Badger base will be loose when dropped into the DD Ross receiver cuts.

There's plenty of other differences as well: Machining marks/patterns on the top and side, chamfer vs round corners on the rear lug, sharp edges vs rounded edges in the base's areas above the receiver port and the cantilever front end, etc.