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What would be a slight step up from .

koshkin
The simple truth is that 90% of people who argue about $4k scopes, buy $2k scopes. Those who foam at the mouth over comparative merits of $2k designs, usually end up buying a scope for $1k.

I spend a lot more time on high end scopes because I am an optics snob and I like them, not because that's where the real demand is.

As good as the high end options are, the most improvement with riflescopes happened in the ~$1k price range where high end Chinese-made scopes got surprisingly competent several years ago. That, arguably is what put pressure on Japanese and Phillipine manufacturers to press forward as well.

Now, I totally get when people do not want to buy a Chinese-made optic. However, they are still benefiting from their competitive pressure.

In other words, the $1k riflescope market segment is very important even if scopes in that price range are not your jam.

ILya
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Zeiss LRP S3 zero stop issues

Sparky
Skater368 said:
Old thread, but relevant to my question. I have a Zeiss S3 6 x 36 on my MPA in 6.5PRC. I zero'd and set the zero stop with Hornady 147 ELD. Rifle really doesn't like it, so I tried the Norma, Golden Target 143 GTX, which it really likes. I seldom shoot at paper, but I did to verify the rifles preference.

It shoots just a bit higher that the Hornady. Now that my zero stop is set, I can't lower the reticle past the zero stop. I read the manual and it only says how to set, not reset it. I tried to pull the brass adjuster under the turret out and it didn't change anything. ???

Ideas?
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You’ve loosened the turret all the way?
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DeLane Development Group Rimfire Ventures

Emerson0311
RAVAGE88 said:
I have a picture somewhere of a large round count group out of my nine twist at 400 yards; the group was round and right at three inches. I was shooting next to another V22 with a 16 twist, shot by AJ. From the 16, there was no consistency to placement on target.

Looking at TOF data between the two twist rates explains it all. We were both using LCX.

MB
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Mine is a 14T. Previously I used a 12T.
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Which is the best AR-10 without barrel deflection: the Geissele MRGG or the Seekins SP10M?

Bigjake83
JR1200W3 said:
But how do you "know you're rifle"? It doesn't come from bench shooting.

One of the most important qualities of a skilled long range shooter is the ability to shoot your same zero from as many fucked up positions as possible. I've recently been on a kick training for PRS matches by shooting from various props on a ProTimer. I start off shooting a prone zero with a gun. Then a 5rd zero from a prop without time pressure. Then another 5rd group, all fired as single shots from ready in a ProTimer with the goal of shooting the same .3-.5" group in the same POI as an aggregate of 5 rounds fired in less than 12 secs each. All at 100yds in paper. And this is with a bolt gun. We all know large frame gas guns are harder to shoot more accurately and I would argue maintaining a zero is also more of a challenge with these guns. So intermixing mechanical inconsistencies in this problem is not helpful. Competitive shooting has skyrocketed since I started in 2007. The bar has been consistently raised and it must be an absolute bitch to get started today compared to 2007. The top 10% are constantly searching for the extra 1% to gain a competitive advantage. If the concept is that you're adjusting your data by .2 or .3 dependant on what position you're shooting in a given stage...fuck that. That is a dodo bird technique. Having the confidence in yourself and your rifle holding precision and accuracy is step #1 to evolving and correcting to center from one target to the next using single shots. You need that confidence and irrefutable proof from preparation.

I'd recommend a shooter that fancys himself some sort of guru get out and truly challenge himself and his rifle using metrics. Which is basically what competition is.
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Bigjake83 said:
I feel like this topic is blown way out of proportion, yes not all uppers are created equally but at the same time you need to know your rifle.

Next time you're practicing at the range with a Bipod and rear bag, shoot from the Prone, Bench, Barricade and standing with tripod.
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I guess you missed this part? ^^ But thank you for reiterating my point in a extremely detailed fashion.
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Which is the best AR-10 without barrel deflection: the Geissele MRGG or the Seekins SP10M?

Bigjake83
JustSendit said:
Heya can I ask why this is helpful? I kind of know ARs but Heli Coil is unfamiliar to me as are handguard screws.
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The SP10 handguard steel screws thread directly into the aluminum upper, the aluminum threads just dont hold up well and are easily stripped.

Helicoils are threaded steel Incerts that can withstand repetitive use and higher torque values.

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Gunsmithing Lathe 101 - (DFW, N. TX)

E
I agree, if you can find a place that is still teaching on manual equipment it will save yourself some time. Though if not, I wouldn't say it is a deal breaker. There is a lot of good info out there, especially on youtube. If you're serious about it, get yourself a lathe and some old barrels are start practicing regardless. Go slow, be safe, and get after it. It is pretty rewarding when you chamber your first barrel and it shoots right out of the gate. Just know it is a pretty expensive "hobby", if you want to do it right.
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