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Blue Buffer spring drama. Malfunctions with new springs. Anyone else seen this?

I go through the ARs I compete with and replace cam pins, firing pin retainers and this year I decided to change buffer springs. My main competition rifle is five years old and though it only has about 3500 rounds in it I figured why not.

Main rifles have mil spec carbine receiver extensions and all have 4oz Spikes Tactical carbine buffers. I ordered three Springco blue springs and swapped them out. Blue slings were about 1” longer than the ones I pulled so I thought at the time I made a good choice .

Issue 1. Shot about 60 rounds down a 14.5 with 5.56 RC2 ran fine. Cases drop 3’ away at 4 o’clock. All good. I put the rifle up dirty with an ECI in it. Pulled it out to get it ready for some shooting after our 3 x 1000 today. Remove the ECI, hit the bolt release and nothing. Bolt didn’t budge. I pull the charging handle back a couple times and nothing. I smack the stock with my hand and the bolt dropped. Cycles fine afterwards and shot fine but this was odd. Never seen this before. Tube and buffer are smooth, no scratches, no excessive fouling.


Issue 2: Today I bring my 15.1” RECCE out with AEM5. First time I have shot it with the new spring. I can’t get through 4 shots without the bolt skipping over the case and jamming the rifle. Did it four times. Buddy had his 14.5 with him with standard mil spec spring. We swapped them and it Ran through 30 rounds with no issues.

I’m not shitting on these springs but I’m not happy . It seems like the one in the 14.5” bound up and the one in the RECCE was too strong/fast and wouldn’t reliably run with my USGI 30 rounder or my buddies 20 round colt mag.


Anyone else ran into anything like this with these blue springs?
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Ridgeline Defense RD-15 LPR

Got my builders kit. I guess I can see how people say the hardware is meh. Gas block is tight, mine is a 18” proof barrel with a badger MK12 GB. Fits either way space, but it’s close. I think I’d get a smaller profile gas block if I could. But this is what I had.

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Maggie’s THE "NOM NOM NOM" THREAD

How low can you set that master built?

I need low 120 - 140 f for sausage making.
It's only labeled to go down to 175. BUT, there's a range between off and that, so it might be possible, but I wouldn't count on it.

First brisket came out great! Ribs did too. I'll get some pics of the butts tomorrow.

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Do I need a 700 in my arsenal.

If you really want a 700, get one. And then after shooting it, tinkering and so on, report back. You'll eventually either send it to Tac OP's or GAP and love it upon return, or go down a rabbit hole chasing accuracy, consistency and parts and start wondering why you're throwing money at it.

If it was 2005 I would say get one, you'll love it out of the box. But 20 years later, I honestly cannot recommend one unless you're planning a full custom of some variety. And even then, the custom actions we have today open up more possibilities and long term cost savings.

All of that said, I understand having an itch for a new rifle and no matter what anyone tells you, nothing will scratch the itch until you throw down the cash and get it.

Maggie’s Motivational Pic Thread v2.0 - - New Rules - See Post #1

Most challenging racing series I was into was spec Miata. There were some ridiculous drivers and its was all about momentum. When I first started I couldn’t believe the speed dome of those guys carried through a turn.

I raced mostly dirt bikes like motocross, TT, half mile, but also some asphalt track stuff. I knew that Ricky Bobby feeling after a bad crash where your head was not back up to speed. When my head was right, speed seemed normal and fun, but I usually did not know if I was going to have a good day till it was on.

New Build #3 Craddock and LarRue PredatAR.

The Green Goblin...



(1) 20" Craddock Precision RTR 22 ARC Barrel (Rock Creek Button Cut) 1-7 Twist / +2 Gas System / Heavy Profile / .875 Gas Block Journal / 5/8x24 Threads.
(2) JP Grendel Bolt.
(3) New Old Stock LaRue 5.56 PredatAR Rifle.
(4) VLTOR A5 H2 Buffer System with JP Polished Rifle Length Spring.
(5) Fixed .875 Gas Block
(6) Full Ambi Controls
(7) Magpul PRS Lite
(8) Tuned early Production Larue MBT.
(9) Nightforce FDE ATACR 7-35 F1 MIL XT.


Shoots Hornady 88gr ELDM and 75gr ELDM Black Factory ammo very well, Suppressed and unsuppressed. Hates the 62gr ELD-VT

Only 40rds down the the barrel, the 88's look very promising. I'll put another 100rds down the barrel and update as the barrel breaks in.

I'll most likely start Load Development with the 75 ELD's, with TAC and XBR.

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Geissele Cut Rifled SPR Build and Barrel Evaluation. (Part 4 (Load Development 28MAY25) Update!!!

Random thoughts......first I'm often caught off guard how good groups for .223/.224 etc. measure when looking at them. I often shoot a group under 1 MOA and think it doesn't look very good just because of the "spread" that's allowed due to the small bullet until measured.
Same. I've shot a lot of groups where 3-4 of them look great and the 1-2 outliers make me think it's a trash group. Then I'm pleasantly surprised when it's still a .8" group.

I think 7 twist originally caught on because "mil-spec bro!" and then hung around because the general consensus is that faster twist is needed for heavier bullets and heavier bullets tend to be match bullets that are more accurate. So people took that to mean faster twist=better accuracy.
Obviously it's not quite that simple, but given how retarded most people on arfcom or reddit are it's no wonder that this stuff is so prevalent.

Not saying 7 twist is bad, but given the bullet weights you can fit in an AR mag in 223/5.56 I find 7 twist to have no advantages and potential for some disadvantages.
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