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Maggie’s The Retired Guy Thread

I'm 7 months into retirement after 42 years in the construction industry. Over the past few months, I've noticed guys commenting on upcoming retirements, where to retire, etc. and thought perhaps a "Retired Guy Thread" may be interesting. Hobbies, activities, exercise, insurance, vacation suggestions or questions (if vacation is a thing when retired), etc. Bascially, anything related to retirement and motivating us retirees to keep active and share info among others. Maybe it will work, or maybe the whole site is a "Retired Guy" thread.

I'll start it with a repost from my post earlier today:

Yesterday was a great day in retirement. A cloudy, damp, dreary 37 degree day here in WI. No reason to stay inside, so I decided to go squirrel hunting. It was quiet, almost surreal, in the woods. The squirrels were not very active, so I snuck around and sat around for about 4-1/2 hours to get the limit. That was the first time in 42 years that I didn't have to be somewhere, or be doing something else, when I went on a squirrel hunt. No time limit, no worries, no thoughts of work...a great day!

Advanced Marksmanship Fundamentals of Marksmanship.

Based on the two topics, "Is Marksmanship Dead" and Equipment Versus Shooter" and the comments engendered.
I know nobody here needs to read what is about to be posted, but it's been around a long time and used by a lot of people and covers fundamentals pretty well. I know, reticle is mispelled throughout the whole thing.
And it's not about iron sights, I don't have that one handy right now, but maybe I can dig the iron sight one out and post it too. Maybe.

*HOW TO HOLD AND SHOOT YOUR RIFLE: Aka Fundamentals of Marksmanship.

*How to Hold, *Aim, *Eye Relief, *Sight Alignment, *Sight Picture, *Breathing, *Trigger Manipulation, *Follow Through, and *Recovery.

Now that your rifle fits you properly and you have learned to properly clean and maintain your rifle, you must learn how to hold the rifle. ACCURACY IS A FUNCTION OF CONSISTENCY, BOTH WITH THE RIFLE AND AMMUNITION, AND THE SHOOTER'S ACTIONS. You must hold the rifle the same way each time. You will practice holding the rifle, your sight picture, your breathing, and trigger manipulation through dry firing. You will practice building a good steady, stable, solid position each time, bone on bone, not held by muscle power. Although you have to exert some muscle control, the position should be a natural relaxed position to avoid muscle fatigue, tension, and shaking that occurs after muscles are overextended for any period of time. You will check your natural point of aim before each shot. NATURAL POINT OF AIM is a position that allows the rifle to point naturally at the target without any muscle tension required to hold it on point of aim. You should keep the same position each time, changing nothing, to maintain consistency, to keep your natural point of aim the same each time. Before beginning this portion, or preceding sections, or any exercises, you should stretch first to loosen up your muscles. Besides the natural relaxing effect of stretching, it helps to prepare you mentally as well. Being physically fit will help you shoot better, and if you are not physically fit, you should make it a point to become fit.

*HOW TO HOLD YOUR RIFLE:
Assume the prone supported firing position.
The front of the rifle will rest either on a bipod attached to the stock or on a sandbag placed under the front of the stock.
Use the nonfiring hand to support the butt of the rifle. Place your hand next to your chest and rest the TIP of the butt of the rifle on top of your hand. Ball your hand into a fist to raise the butt of the rifle or relax your fist to lower the butt of the rifle. A preferred method is to use a sock filled with sand or a small sand bag placed in your non firing hand and squeeze it to raise the rifle butt and release the bag to lower the rifle butt. Using this sock or bag method lessens body contact with the rifle and can eliminate an added human variable.
Place the butt of the rifle firmly in the pocket of the shoulder. The sniper can place a pad in his clothing in the pocket of his shoulder to reduce pulse beat and breathing movement.
With the firing hand, grip the the small or pistol grip of the stock. Using the middle through little fingers, exert a slight rearward pull to keep the butt of the rifle firmly in the pocket of the shoulder. Place the thumb over the top of the pistol grip of the stock. Place the index or trigger finger on the trigger and insure it does not touch the stock and does not disturb the lay of the rifle when the trigger is pulled.
Find a comfortable position for your elbows that provide the greatest support for you and your rifle without creating a strain.
Place your cheek in the same place on the stock each time. This is called the stock weld. Changing your position changes sight alignment and will cause misplaced shots.

*AIMING THE RIFLE:
Begin the aiming process by aligning the rifle with the target when assuming a firing position. THE RIFLE SHOULD POINT NATURALLY AT THE DESIRED AIMING POINT. No muscular tension or movement should be neccessary to hold the rifle on target. To check the Natural Point of Aim (NPA), you assume a comfortable, STABLE, firing position. Place your cheek on the stock at the correct stock weld and breath, and entering the natural respiratory pause, look away from the scope moving only your eye and relax. Let the rifle drift to its natural point of aim, then look back through the scope. If the crosshairs remain on the correct position on the target, the natural point of aim is correct.
If the NPA is not correct, you must change your body position to bring the sights on the target. If muscles are used to bring the rifle to NPA, the muscles will relax when the rifle is fired and the rifle will begin to move to its NPA. Because this movement begins just before the weapon discharges, the rifle is moving at the bullet leaves the muzzle. This causes displaced shots with no apparent cause as recoil disguises the movement. By adjusting the rifle and body as a single unit, rechecking, and readjusting as necessary, you achieve a true natural point of aim. Once this position of established, you will them aim the rifle at the exact point on the target. Aiming involves three areas, eye relief, sight alignment, and sight picture.

*EYE RELIEF:
This is the distance from the firing eye to the scope tube. This distance is fairly constant with a scope. You should take care to avoid injury by the scope tube striking the eyebrow during recoil.
You should place your head as upright as possible behind the scope with your eye directly behind the scope. This head placement allows the muscles around your eye to relax. Incorrect head placement causes you to have to look out the corner of your eye resulting in muscle strain, causing blurred vision and eye strain. Eye strain can be avoided by not staring through the scope for long periods of time and correct stock weld alleviates eye strain as well by maintaining consistent eye relief.

*SIGHT ALIGNMENT:
Sight alignment is the relationship between the crosshairs (reticle) and field of view. You must place your head behind the scope so a full field of view appears in the scope tube with NO DARK SHADOWS OR CRESENTS. Center the reticle in a full field of view with the vertical crosshair straight up to ensure the scope is not canted.

*SIGHT PICTURE:
Sight picture is centering the reticle with a full field of view on the target as seen by you. Place the reticle crosshairs on what portion of the target you wish to hit.

*BREATHING:
You must exercise breathing control during the aiming process. Breathing while trying to aim, with the natural up and down motion of the chest while breathing, causes the rifle to move up and down. Up and down movement occurs while laying down. Breathing movement can be side to side when sitting at a bench rest type table when your body is against the table. You must therefore accomplish sight alignment while breathing and finish aiming while holding your breath. You do this by inhaling, exhaling, and stop at the moment of natural respiratory pause before beginning to inhale again.
A respiratory cycle lasts four to five seconds. Inhalation and exhalation take only about two seconds, thus between each respiratory cycle there is a pause of two to three seconds. This pause can be extended to ten seconds without any special effort or unpleasant sensations. You should fire during this pause when your breathing muscles are relaxed. This avoids strain on the diaphragm.
You should assume your firing position and breath naturally until your hold begins to settle.
The respiratory pause should never feel un-natural. If it is too long, the body suffers from oxygen deprivation and begins to send out signals to resume breathing. These signals produce involuntary movements of the diaphragm which interfere with the shooters concentration and lack of movement needed to make a shot.

*TRIGGER CONTROL:
Trigger control is the most important fundamental of sniper marksmanship. It is defined as causing the rifle to fire when the sight picture is at its very best, without causing the rifle to move. Trigger Squeeze on the other hand is defined as the independent action of the forefinger on the trigger with a uniformly increasing pressure on the trigger straight to the rear until the rifle fires. Trigger Control is the last task to be accomplished before the rifle fires.
Proper trigger control occurs when the sniper places his firing finger as low on the trigger as possible and still clears the trigger guard, thereby achieving maximum mechanical advantage. He engages the trigger with that part of his firing finger (middle of the pad of the last digit) that allows him to pull the trigger straight to the rear. In order to avoid transferring movement of the finger to the entire rifle, the sniper should see daylight between the trigger finger and the stock as he squeezes the trigger straight to the rear. He fires the weapon when the reticle is in a position to insure a properly placed shot, or when the reticle is on target.
As the stability of a firing position decreases, the wobble area increases. The larger the wobble area, the harder it is to fire the shot without reacting to it, attempting to influence the sight placement when the trigger breaks. This reaction occurs when the sniper:
1. Anticipates recoil. The firing shoulder begins to move forward just before the rifle fires, thus pushing the rifle out of line with the target.
2. Jerks the Trigger. The trigger finger moves the trigger in a quick, choppy, spasmodic attempt to fire the shot before the reticle can move from the desired point of aim.
3. Flinches. The sniper's entire body (or parts thereof) overreacts to the anticipated noise or recoil (jerks). This is usually due to unfamiliarity with the weapon.
4. Avoids Recoil. The sniper tries to avoid recoil or noise by moving away from the weapon or by closing the firing eye just before the weapon fires. This again is caused by unfamiliarity with the weapon and a lack of knowledge of the weapon's actions upon firing.
Trigger control is best handled by by assuming a stable position, adjusting on the target, and beginning a breathing cycle. As the sniper exhales the final breath approaching the natural respiratory pause, he secures his finger on the trigger. As the reticle settles on the target at the desired point of aim, and the natural respiratory pause is entered, the sniper applies initial pressure to the trigger. He increases the tension on the trigger during the respiratory pause as long as the reticle remains on the desired point of aim to insure a properly placed shot. If the reticle moves away from the desired point of aim, and the respiratory pause is free of strain or tension, the sniper stops increasing the tension on the trigger, waits for the reticle to return to the desired point of aim, and then continues to squeeze the trigger. This is trigger control. If movement is too large for recovery, or if the respiratory pause has become uncomfortable (extended too long), then the sniper should whenever possible, release the pressure off the trigger and start the respiratory cycle again.

*FOLLOW THROUGH:
Applying the fundamentals increases the odds of a well aimed shot being fired. There are however, additional skills, that when mastered, make the first round correct hit even more of a certainty. One of these skills is follow through.
a. This is the act of continuing to apply all the sniper marksmanship fundamentals as the weapon fires as well as after the weapon fires. Follow through consists of:
* Keeping the head in firm contact with the stock (stock weld) upon firing and after firing.
* Keeping the finger on the trigger pulling all the way to the rear when and after the weapon fires.
* Continuing to look through the scope when and after the weapon fires.
* Insuring the muscles stay relaxed when and after the weapon fires.
* Avoid reacting to the recoil or noise during and after firing.
* Releasing the trigger only after the recoil has stopped.
b. Good follow through insures that the weapon is allowed to fire and recoil naturally, and the sniper/rifle combination reacts as a single unit to such actions.

*CALLING THE SHOT:
Calling the shot is being able to tell where the bullet should impact on the target. The sniper must be able to accurately call the shots. Proper follow through will aid in calling the shot. The dominant factor in calling the shot is, whereever the reticle is when the shot is fired. This location is called the final focus point.

308 Berger 185 Load Data

Anyone have load data, or a favorite load, for .308 Berger Classic Hunter (basically HT) 185 gr bullets using Varget? The data from Berger seems low and produces lower velocities than what many on the forum seem to see and favor. Is everyone exceeding Berger’s max values? Anyway, using Peterson match brass SRP, Federal GMM 205M primers, Varget. 20-inch barrel REM 700 SPS. Thanks for sharing. Just looking for a solid deer load inside of 300 yards and which doubles as a good target load out to 500 or 700 yards that’s all. Thanks.

Which stock?

I just ordered a new lefty 24" Origin barreled action in 300 prc. I want to go with a stock this time instead of a chassis.

I am thinking of something like a Manner Night Stalker. Do any of you have any experience with this particular model? Or suggest other similar options?

SOLD WTS 6.5 Creedmoor Impact NBK Rifle

Looking to sell a rifle that isn’t seeing much use.

Impact NBK SA 75* Bolt
Bartlein Carbon 20” barrel in 6.5 Creed
Chambered by TS Customs
Hawkins M5 bottom metal
Triggertech Diamond single stage
Manners MCS-PH Back in Black color
2 non-rotating LH flush cups
1 non-rotating bottom rear flush cup
Mini Chassis

Roughly 120 rounds on the barreled action. Triggertech and Stock are essentially new. They haven’t been out of the house. Right around 7lbs.

$1900 for the barreled action
$3100 for the whole thing.

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02/17/2025 Virginia would-be mass shooter SHOT DEAD in supermarket parking lot by a shopper with a CCW.

CROZET, ALBEMARLE COUNTY VA
02/17/2025

A man who some social media sources had described as 'just having been involved as the aggressor in a heated road rage verbal exchange' prior to this incident pulled into a Harris Teeter supermarket in Crozet, Virginia, retrieved a rifle from his vehicle, and began shooting indiscriminately at shoppers entering and leaving the crowded store at around 1:00 PM. An SUV with a retired nurse sitting inside was pumped with multiple bullets first, leaving the woman occupant in critical condition. The shooter, now identified as 28 year old Justin Barbour, then turned his rifle onto shoppers at the supermarket's entranceway. His next fusillade struck and killed a 43 year old customer leaving the store. Another shopper, an off duty federal agent, heard the sound of gunfire, drew his personal CCW, identified the active shooter and returned fire, hitting him multiple times. Barbour, the shooter, was pronounced dead on scene by arriving first responders.


The deceased would-be mass shooter, 28 year old Justin Barbour:

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A primary source eyewitness account of the gunfight in the parking lot:

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Moral of this story: Carry and be ready everywhere and anywhere. Also train comprehensively to make sure that not only you CAN hit what you are aiming at under stress, but you can also do so with minimum rounds fired. The armed shopper's rounds came very close to striking a couple of bystanders as he was exchanging fire with the gunman.

There is absolutely no doubt that an armed patron of the store had stopped what would have been a mass casualty and possibly hostage/standoff situation based on how eyewitnesses described the shooter's movements towards the crowded store and the fashion in which he was firing that rifle.

Correct OBT Barrel Lenght *With* Muzzle Device?

When a rifle has a flash suppressor or muzzle brake installed, does one's search for an OBT load require that the calculations go to the end of the barrel length only, or to the end of the muzzle device?

And is using the OBT barrel time charts and QuickLOAD calculations/predictions even of any use if the rifle in question is a semiauto?

Yes, I have seen the time/bullet travel charts for a few of them and understand that the bullet really has passed the muzzle long before the bolt starts to unlock. But I do wonder if the impulses of gas tapping and starting to pressure up the gas system (either piston OR DI) during bullet travel overpowers the chances of successfully predicting an OBT load.

Actual experiences in predicting OBT, whether successful, inconclusive or failure, are preferred.

Alternatively, experimentally-proven OCW loads out of any semi-auto are welcome. I could then do some retrospective calculations.

Thanks!

SOLD Impact 737 6 Creed in Manners T6A

Rifle is in excellent condition and has only seen range use. Action wrench is included. Bipod is not included.
Action: Impact 737 (non-AW cut)
Barrel: PVA 6 Creed, 26", throated for berger, smk, dtac, 1:8 twist, .237" bore, marksman contour, Hawk Hill button-rifled, threaded 5/8x24 with thread protector, graphite black cerakote
Trigger: Bix Tac Sport 2-stage
Stock: Manners T6a Elite Tactical (carbon fiber) w/ gen 2 mini-chassis
Round Count: 600, running mild load of 39.0 grains H4350 @ ~2995
$sold shipped to your FFL in lower 48. AK/HI - we can discuss. Not looking for any trades. Thanks.
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McCann MIRS - MCMILLAN TAC 50

Howdy.

Hunted for this rail forever and ended up coming across two.

Wondering what's your best guess on market value, as they've been discontinued for over ten years.

Any and all feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

Best,
C

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Sidearms & Scatterguns Orthos Raider S4 (Benelli M4 Clone)

Did a pretty hefty search and hadn't seen any mention of the Orthos Raider S4 yet.
I've always wanted the OG Benelli M4 but seeing as how I always end up doing a shit load of mods and customizations anyway, I decided to pull the trigger on the Orthos knowing full well it's not gonna stay bone stock for long.
If anyone has one, or would like to post their own M4 (or clone) builds. I'd love to see them.

This is going to end up similar to their "Shipwreck" limited edition release...but different.
Already added the MI extended m-lok hand guard and have an SBS barrel and mag tube sitting here waiting for a Form 1 to clear.

(updated with pictures)

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SOLD Trade pending. Price drop- WTS/WTT USO B-17 3.5-17x50

Mil GAP reticle VG to excellent condition, glass is great.

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Aadamount caps, flip-up USO throw lever, and original box included. LT mount is not, but can be for an extra $200.

$1325 $1275 shipped CONUS, AK & HI we can talk. Prefer PP F&F, may be open to other options.

ETA trade: I need something with more magnification, 25x or more. FFP/Mil are a must, 34mm preferred. +/- a little $$ is OK.

And come to think of it, I could use a spotting scope.
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SOLD Leupold BX-4 HD 12x50 Binos

Selling: Leupold 172675 BX-4 Pro Guide HD 12x50 Binos. I bought these a Few months back and they are fantastic for their price point. Only selling because I won something else that’s much higher end. Comes with original packaging and carry case and such. 400$ shipped conus.

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Feedback on Target and Stand

Background: My friend has a little land where we can setup and shoot distance and I've bought some steel targets and stands for this purpose. I have found them to be a little clumsy or fragile and limited in number of targets/sizes you can use until you get way up in price.

So I thought I'd make something that might satisfy some of the annoyances which were mainly: storage/transportation/ease of setup/limited target size selection/stand construction (thin steel tubes)

Attached are the pictures of what I came up with.
Stand - flat pack and made of plain carbon steel everything attached with clevis pins (1/4")
Hanger - rubber strap
Target - 6 in 1 1"-6" target in 1" increments AR500 (designed to keep center of gravity in the middle) 3/8"
Top crossbar AR500 3/8"

I have not had any of these parts cut out yet. I wanted to get feedback on the design first of both the target and the stand.

TIA

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Badger Ordinance M2013 action...can they still be found?

My buddies finally pulled the trigger on a pair of savage chassis guns which kind of lit a fire under my butt to start thinking of building one myself. Ive always loved the M2013 action but I see theyre never in stock on Badger Ordinances website. Are they discontinued? If so how hard is it to come by one? Id prefer to find a short action for 308 or 6.5 creed. I know there are plenty of other actions widely available on the interwebs but i kinda have my heart set on a AI patterened action. TIA everyone! Im new to snipershide and so far Im amazed at how awesome this community is!
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SOLD Deep South Tactical 6.5 CM

Timney HIT Trigger
Impact Action
Manners PRS stock with mini chassis
AI 5 round mag
26” Hart 8 twist MTU Improved barrel with 385 rounds down pipe
Area 419 Arca rail/bump stop
Scope, rings and muzzle brake not included. Will sell scope and rings separately.

Asking $2700

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Rifle Scopes Thread sizing Objectives

I’m trying to 3D print Sunshades for my scopes. I have a few people wanting me to make them some also. So I’m thinking if I can find some way to get accurate threads for basically any scope, it’ll be a little side money help for me.

Does anyone know how to accurately measure, or where (maybe a reference chart) I can find specific thread sizes and counts of basically any thread size? I have read a little, and if I understand it correctly, I can use my mic and measure the highest points of threads for the size, but I’m stuck on the pitch/count on such fine threads. However, that doesn’t help me, because if I’m needing to cut outside threads, I need the size of the inside threads.

Any suggestions?