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Were you using a can?
Barrel/ suppressor mirage *from my limited perspective* tend to make the image snap in and out of focus and even shift observably. The higher the magnification the worse it is.
Environmental mirage can be focused on at different ranges and alot of times can be pretty constant.
Anyone with more experience please correct me.
I haven’t observed it really on my 308 Cross all my shooting has been unsuppressed (cause the can is still in jail). My 6.5 with a can on it gets pretty sporty in the summer(I know I need to get a good suppressor cover).
Thin barrels heat up faster then thick barrels. Heat causes mirage.
Do you have covers on the top MLOK slots?
I’ve been getting groups around an inch with a quick and dirty 150fmj load that i basically just picked out of the book. Haven’t worked up a precision load or shot FGMM but I’m very confident it would at least be sub MOA.
I’ve had no accuracy issue with my 6.5 Creed Cross. I actually tried my PRS load in it from another rifle and it gave a ragged hole. Hornady 147gr ELD over H4350 in Lapua brass. 2550fps. Have taken it to 1000, but really shines inside of 700. Will be trying some 130gr Berger Hybrids here shortly.
I bought my 6.5CM Cross a year ago and love it.
No issues at all and .5 MOA with Winchester Deer Season XP 125g.
I have put a lot of love into all my weapons, but it is the Cross I want to reach for the most.
No issues at all and .5 MOA with Winchester Deer Season XP 125g.
I have put a lot of love into all my weapons, but it is the Cross I want to reach for the most.
Just put bullet 100 down the barrel and several of my reloads are running 1 1/4 to 1/2 inch with the majority around 5/8 inch at 100 yards.
Factory Hornsby 140 ELDM were just under an inch at 100.
Very acceptable for my intended use,hunting and short range PRS style shooting.
Factory Hornsby 140 ELDM were just under an inch at 100.
Very acceptable for my intended use,hunting and short range PRS style shooting.
i had the same problem with my Sierra 6. my cross came with a 20 moa base and i purchased a 20 moa ring set for my scope. I changed to 0 moa offset rings and everything worked perfectly.
So wanted to let everyone know of my experience with the cross on my last Colorado hunting trip. I came across elk on my 4th day of the hunt and was ready to take my shot but had 3 misfires using factory precision hunter 143gr ammo (shallow primer hits). it was 7 degrees F and just spent 2 hours hiking up a mountain to find these elk. I came back home empty handed and called Sig customer service that advised me that the grease packed in the bolt from the factory is not rated for those temperatures. He advised me to go shoot the cross at normal temperatures and it would probably shoot normally. That's what i did and it shot perfectly without any issues. I want you all to know this before taking your cross to sub freezing temperatures because the factory grease in the bolt could ruin your hunt like it did for me. 
I did some researching and will be using Wilson combat OIL, ULTIMA-LUBE® II which has several temperature ratings in the lineup from now on. Anyone else have a low temp oil that has worked well for you? Please share your experience. https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Oil-Ultima-Lube-II-2-oz-Bottle/productinfo/577-2/
I did some researching and will be using Wilson combat OIL, ULTIMA-LUBE® II which has several temperature ratings in the lineup from now on. Anyone else have a low temp oil that has worked well for you? Please share your experience. https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Oil-Ultima-Lube-II-2-oz-Bottle/productinfo/577-2/
In WW2 times, in cold conditions, misfires were quite common - if any lubricant was present in the bolt. No lube was better than lube that goes stiff.
+1 The .mil covers some useful background in old training manuals.
The link doesn't work for me. Perhaps I'm in a wrong part of the world?
This article has a couple of points: https://www.army.mil/article/198696/winter_weapons_handling
edit: now the PDF opened after all.
We have made several carbon fiber barrels for the Cross and have found no reason to replace the barrel extension. The Tikka is the closest but because of the barrel nut the Tikka prefits will not work. We can do a prefit in any .473 bolt face caliber.
I just purchased a cross 2 weeks ago and while I was cleaning/lubricating per instruction manual before shooting the rifle, I seem to remember the instructions had some specific details for lubricating the bolt/firing pin/spring and cold weather conditions. May be worth a look.So wanted to let everyone know of my experience with the cross on my last Colorado hunting trip. I came across elk on my 4th day of the hunt and was ready to take my shot but had 3 misfires using factory precision hunter 143gr ammo (shallow primer hits). it was 7 degrees F and just spent 2 hours hiking up a mountain to find these elk. I came back home empty handed and called Sig customer service that advised me that the grease packed in the bolt from the factory is not rated for those temperatures. He advised me to go shoot the cross at normal temperatures and it would probably shoot normally. That's what i did and it shot perfectly without any issues. I want you all to know this before taking your cross to sub freezing temperatures because the factory grease in the bolt could ruin your hunt like it did for me.
So wanted to let everyone know of my experience with the cross on my last Colorado hunting trip. I came across elk on my 4th day of the hunt and was ready to take my shot but had 3 misfires using factory precision hunter 143gr ammo (shallow primer hits). it was 7 degrees F and just spent 2 hours hiking up a mountain to find these elk. I came back home empty handed and called Sig customer service that advised me that the grease packed in the bolt from the factory is not rated for those temperatures. He advised me to go shoot the cross at normal temperatures and it would probably shoot normally. That's what i did and it shot perfectly without any issues. I want you all to know this before taking your cross to sub freezing temperatures because the factory grease in the bolt could ruin your hunt like it did for me.
That sucks, I'm sorry to hear that. Concern over that kind of malfunction is why I usually blast all the factory lube out of bolts with Hornady One Shot and just leave the dry lube in the firing pin channel.
I recently picked up a used Sig Cross in 308. Initially, I had some accuracy issues. Changed scope rings, mounted them differently and torqued everything down properly. Shot it today with good results! I share this only because of negative posts by some.
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Worked up a quick load for mine this weekend. Found some 150 nosler ballistic tips, varget, 210M and Lapua brass and gave them a shot. All shots were from bipod at 150. Not too bad for stock small light weight rifle. Shot sub 1” at 150 pretty much anything I shot through it.
Nice set up. I was originally going to go with the MK5 for mine, but went with the LHT 4.5-22 simply for the weight savings. My can “should” be out of jail here in the next 2 weeks for it, of course right after hunting season is over, lol
This may be a dumb question, but would an Sig Cross Prefit barrel fit on a Tikka action? I know I’d have to use a barrel nut. But I could get a Tikka shouldered 8.6 blk barrel in 4 months or the Sig. Cross barrel today.
Is anyone making a carbon hand guard for the Cross?
Haven't seen one yet. Would most likely be almost a grand due to lower demand though
Question. Can the cross be converted to a 6.5 prc with an aftermarket barrel?
My buddy just asked a Sig rep, at the great western outdoor show, when the 277 fury would be available for the cross and he answered "not for a while because the military is taking up all capacity". This is unfortunate because I bought the Cross for that round and it's been 2 years in the waiting.
Hey, new(-ish) rifle user here. I got the Sig Cross (6.5 cm model) a little over two years ago. I have an AR and some other guns as well but am focusing on shooting longer distances. I chose the Sig with no experience or knowledge of what i should possibly get as a longer reaching gun than my AR. My family has enough property that i can reach out to 700 yds when I get good enough.
I am just now trying to get more accurate with it and looking for tips/advice. I have been happy shooting at 100 and 200 yards but have recently been moving out to 400+ and 550 yds. I am debating on whether I should buy a can (i see alot of people putting a can on this gun) or trying to find a longer barrel. I most recently tried shooting from 550 yds with Hornady Match 120g ammo and even using the 700 sight marker on my scope still came 10 inches under the target.
I am just now trying to get more accurate with it and looking for tips/advice. I have been happy shooting at 100 and 200 yards but have recently been moving out to 400+ and 550 yds. I am debating on whether I should buy a can (i see alot of people putting a can on this gun) or trying to find a longer barrel. I most recently tried shooting from 550 yds with Hornady Match 120g ammo and even using the 700 sight marker on my scope still came 10 inches under the target.
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Definitely get a can. 18” is more than enough barrel for 700 yds, should go to 1000 no problem. What scope are you using? I would also go with a heavier bullet, 130-147. 140s will do well for you. 700 is also doable with an AR in 556 with good ammo and glass, but will be much more challenging.
I have seen alot of ppl in videos shooting out to 1,000 without much problem but they all had cans. I am using a Burris Full Field II 6.5-20 x 50mm scope. I am still learning the terms and uses of the wind and elevation turrets. I haven't moved them since i got it sighted in. I have a magpul bi-pod I took off my AR and put on my Cross, though i dont use the bi-pod as much as i expected i would. The ammo i am using is a variety i have found at my local stores. Once I get 700 yds down I will find a place near me that will allow me to shoot out to 1,000.
As for my AR I am hoping to reach out to 500 with it as well shooting 5.56. I have an EOtech Red dot and g45 x5 QD flip up magnifier.
As for my AR I am hoping to reach out to 500 with it as well shooting 5.56. I have an EOtech Red dot and g45 x5 QD flip up magnifier.
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+1, also needs those 130-144 class bullets in BTHP or target type designs.
So, your scope has markers for different distances. The markers will only be correct for a particular bullet at a particular velocity. Your ammunition might not match that at all. You'll need to figure out the adjustments on your scope. If you don't have a manual, there might be one online?
For the matter of barrel or can.... A longer barrel will give you higher velocity, meaning "flatter" trajectory and shorter flight time. A can obviously reduces noise, and might let the bullet stabilize slightly better on leaving the barrel: all those high pressure gases disturb the bullet slightly less when slowed down by the can.
Shooting any distance has nothing to do with a suppressor. Shoot what you have.
I think everyone enjoys shooting a silenced rifle more than a bare muzzle rifle, but indont think that is currently your best priority...
I believe you would benefit from a scope that was designed for dialing with an exposed turret and more traditional graduated reticle, or perhaps more of a Christmas tree type reticle that is graduated in mils or minutes.
Not to say that the BDC type scopes don't work... but if you don't have the exact velocity / bullet combination that the reticle was designed around it's all about averaging out which holdover to zero against so that most of your shots hit the required target size.
You may want to match the furthest hold for example because the closer will not be off enough to miss a target of xx size... make sense?
And is the full field second focal plane? You also must make sure that you are on the correct magnification for the bdc to be correct if that is the case.
Hopefully the above makes sense why I belive you would enjoy more of a ffp graduated reticle more than a bdc
I believe you would benefit from a scope that was designed for dialing with an exposed turret and more traditional graduated reticle, or perhaps more of a Christmas tree type reticle that is graduated in mils or minutes.
Not to say that the BDC type scopes don't work... but if you don't have the exact velocity / bullet combination that the reticle was designed around it's all about averaging out which holdover to zero against so that most of your shots hit the required target size.
You may want to match the furthest hold for example because the closer will not be off enough to miss a target of xx size... make sense?
And is the full field second focal plane? You also must make sure that you are on the correct magnification for the bdc to be correct if that is the case.
Hopefully the above makes sense why I belive you would enjoy more of a ffp graduated reticle more than a bdc
Thanks. Some of this is beyond me still. I have capped turrets but don't have a problem taking them off. The scope is just something I found the same day I bought the gun. Idk what BDC or ffp are (i have since looked these up to know what you meant). I understand your reference to a Christmas tree style reticle. I do have the manual for the scope still but I don't remember seeing it say it was designed around a specific bullet profile. It came with multiple Mil dot references from everything from a .22 to a .308 or 7mm
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also i have no idea how to tell if my scope is ffp or sfp. i will try to look it up.
Edit: so it is a rear focal plane. I still need to learn about the parallax and when to adjust it. Also i was thinking getting a new barrel bc it seemed like it was going to be cheaper to buy a new barrel vs getting a tax stamp and a can.
Edit: so it is a rear focal plane. I still need to learn about the parallax and when to adjust it. Also i was thinking getting a new barrel bc it seemed like it was going to be cheaper to buy a new barrel vs getting a tax stamp and a can.
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@MoHobbyPlinker we should start a new thread to keep from getting too far off topic in this one, but there is a wealth of stuff here to read on these topics. As well as people that will help you if we can
what is the topic? I saw the OG post was about the Sig comparing to the Q Fix back in 2019.
Thank you. There are a few short ranges near me but the closest one to shoot more than 200 yards is about a 90 min drive. I have talked to some of its members but they all just say the best thing i could do is sign up for a membership
Looking to get a cross, I found a 6.5 one that I like (used). I was wondering if anyone has seen anything about conversions? I was thinking of trying to swap to 6.5PRC if possible after I burn the barrel out… I have found ore-fit barrels but no bolt face. Any help would be appreciated.
PSA: I come accross a fraudulent website posing as a SIG website and advertising Schnee carbon barrels. DO NOT order or give any info to this website. It is 100% fake and SIG has been made aware/is looking into it.
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I thought I would update my previous posts. I wish I had a little more info, but I'll share what I have. In previous posts, I discussed the extreme out of alignment of my bore and optic exampled in the problem that I couldn't zero all but one optic which was an Eotech Vudu 5-25 with an actual 25 mils of windage.
I purchased a Sig barrel assembly which allowed for the replacement of my barrel and extension. This solved the issue. I wish I would have utilized the new extension with the old barrel and tested to see if I could isolate the problem (I'm assuming thread mating on either or both), but I settled on using the new extension and new barrel. Head spacing the new barrel assembly to my bolt was too easy (Brownell's barrel vice, 50-250 lbs torque wrench, AR wrench, gauges, 1 1/16" Large Box Wrench). I would have liked to isolate the barrel or the extension as the culprit, but the new barrel is a shooter so not looking to tear it back apart.
I now have the Vortex LHT 4.5-22 mounted and my zero is almost at the center of my windage adjustment.
As to parts, I purchased the complete Sig 6.5CM barrel assembly which combined a new barrel. extension and jam nut. The Sig barrel assembly did not come with any muzzle adapters or thread protector.
I initially purchased the rifle at Bass Pro when they had an amazing sale on the 6.5 CM model. I think I paid around $1,300 before tax. After spending over $400 on the new barrel and extension, the original sale wasn't so....good. I will probably contact Sig to let them know about the fix as they sent it back to me and reported it as acceptable with no other data. In all fairness, CS was good, kind, but they failed to address the issues or provide what "acceptable" meant.
For those who have had similar problems pertaining to alignment, I suspect, you could check head spacing, maybe spin the barrel in the extension, moving your barrel in a "positive" direction...if headspace allows.
Again, not exact, I didn't isolate the issue, but it's fixed. For those who suspected the receiver face or picatinny rail...maybe, but mine was somewhere within the barrel/extension interface.
Lastly...I also picked up 60 fps with the new, same length barrel.
Blessings,
BC
I purchased a Sig barrel assembly which allowed for the replacement of my barrel and extension. This solved the issue. I wish I would have utilized the new extension with the old barrel and tested to see if I could isolate the problem (I'm assuming thread mating on either or both), but I settled on using the new extension and new barrel. Head spacing the new barrel assembly to my bolt was too easy (Brownell's barrel vice, 50-250 lbs torque wrench, AR wrench, gauges, 1 1/16" Large Box Wrench). I would have liked to isolate the barrel or the extension as the culprit, but the new barrel is a shooter so not looking to tear it back apart.
I now have the Vortex LHT 4.5-22 mounted and my zero is almost at the center of my windage adjustment.
As to parts, I purchased the complete Sig 6.5CM barrel assembly which combined a new barrel. extension and jam nut. The Sig barrel assembly did not come with any muzzle adapters or thread protector.
I initially purchased the rifle at Bass Pro when they had an amazing sale on the 6.5 CM model. I think I paid around $1,300 before tax. After spending over $400 on the new barrel and extension, the original sale wasn't so....good. I will probably contact Sig to let them know about the fix as they sent it back to me and reported it as acceptable with no other data. In all fairness, CS was good, kind, but they failed to address the issues or provide what "acceptable" meant.
For those who have had similar problems pertaining to alignment, I suspect, you could check head spacing, maybe spin the barrel in the extension, moving your barrel in a "positive" direction...if headspace allows.
Again, not exact, I didn't isolate the issue, but it's fixed. For those who suspected the receiver face or picatinny rail...maybe, but mine was somewhere within the barrel/extension interface.
Lastly...I also picked up 60 fps with the new, same length barrel.
Blessings,
BC
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Where did you buy the new extension?
