Would a touch of blue loctite on the action screws be beneficial?
With the ATX checking torque is much more involved then a standard chassis as you have to take it apart each time
Why I just bought a AXSA
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Spoke to some more experienced guys about bonding the ATX chassis. They pointed out the ATX chassis is thinner in design and would require milling for the epoxy to be correct on the flat bottom chassis as well as the washers needed for this.
So after arguing with the voices in my head I ripped her down and loctited all 4 action screws and the 2 screws holding the chassis halves together
#loctiteforlife
#12lbsboltliftgangforlife
So after arguing with the voices in my head I ripped her down and loctited all 4 action screws and the 2 screws holding the chassis halves together
#loctiteforlife
#12lbsboltliftgangforlife
I have the AXSR and I haven’t run into loose action screws. I also take her completely apart every 6 months to deep clean the AZ desert meth dust out of her.
With a can (it’s airsoft)…so maybe @Huskydriver will finally love meeeee
Those fire ants are getting out of control
Just picked up this AXSR in 300 PRC. I wanted to get the Kraken but the wait time would be too long and I would miss the CA excise tax deadline!
I am going to try this out at the range tomorrow. No time to get back into reloading yet, so I'll use Hornady Match to see what kind of grouping I get out of the box. Hope the blast won't be too much with this Fat Bastard brake or I'll have to get an Insite Heathen or Ace brake.
I am going to try this out at the range tomorrow. No time to get back into reloading yet, so I'll use Hornady Match to see what kind of grouping I get out of the box. Hope the blast won't be too much with this Fat Bastard brake or I'll have to get an Insite Heathen or Ace brake.
I have a black AT and I do have to say it is a great color
Witness mark everything to appropriate torque, but I never check torque after that
Mine groups the factory 225ELD in ragged holes at 100, but the ES/SD is pretty bad since they had to start sourcing their powder from new sources (pre-2021 manufactured ammo was better). The newer stuff does ok out to 1000, but to really take it out where 300PRC lives I’ve had to handload.
How many action screws does the SR have? I think it’s 6? The new ATXC models have 6 now. Which I’m not suggesting anything but there may be a reason they didn’t stick with 4 in those
Beauty. As much as I love sage green and elite sand, both times I laid down my own cash for an AI I went all black. I was accidentally shipped a sage green AXMC when I ordered. So tempted, but sent it back for the black. That being said, if elite sand was still available that would be my next one now that I have black covered.
Yea I meant checking the witness marks frequently. The torque is reset during the 6month tear apart.
5.
Perhaps the Gen 3 AXSR will have 8?
Interestingly the AT-X manual doesn't have the action screws needing loctite. Other screws it does. After my experience, I highly recommend it along with the correct torque.
Accuracy International: AXSR .300 PRC - 27", Sage Green
AI : SR30P27MBL. The AXSR is based on Accuracy International's submission for the USSOCOM Advanced Sniper Rifle program (ASR).
www.milehighshooting.com
Thanks but I should have said that I am waiting for a left-handed sage green AXSRAccuracy International: AXSR .300 PRC - 27", Sage Green
AI : SR30P27MBL. The AXSR is based on Accuracy International's submission for the USSOCOM Advanced Sniper Rifle program (ASR).
Is it just optic illusion, or is the optic touching the forend bridge ?
This is what I did after my little fiasco...but add that I also did the two screws holding the trigger into the action.
#blueloctiteforlife
Just wondering is there any kind of internal lug to keep the recoil forces off the receiver screws ?
I have never been inside a ATX rifle.
Definitely happy my AX is bonded, but will keep an I on screws torque’s from now on.
The stuff between the action on the AX/AT/MC would have a hard time keeping the gun together with no action screws fastened under a fair amount of shooting.
People keep calling it bonding but its a carry over from the days when the actions were not as flat as they are today and they needed to keep flatness consistent. I.e the four brass washers to create a gap and fill.
Its not glue and it wont keep the gun together under real use if the screws are not tight.
Lil bit of heat and it peels off like blue tape.
AI might know.
I vaguely recall @Scott Seigmund explaining the compound was used in order to create uniformity between the action and the chassis back in the day AI was leaving tool marks on the actions. Also explaining that the application process is safety hazard to the operators on the assembly line (gasses/fumes ect).
Maybe he'll chime in. Bottom line is the solution to an action coming loose is more torque on the bolts.
I vaguely recall @Scott Seigmund explaining the compound was used in order to create uniformity between the action and the chassis back in the day AI was leaving tool marks on the actions. Also explaining that the application process is safety hazard to the operators on the assembly line (gasses/fumes ect).
Maybe he'll chime in. Bottom line is the solution to an action coming loose is more torque on the bolts.
Do you normally shoot in 250°F weather? Because I've never had an AI fall apart unless it was coming out of an oven.
I use Devcon 2-part Aluminum putty #10610. In my research I found that was what I believed to be what AI used on their production rifles, but I certainly could be wrong. I tried the Devcon plastic steel epoxy and it sucked.
Not at all what i implied so for the guys in the back that just showed up.
By itself, I don't believe its meant to keep the gun together under a heavy use which is what most people here think its meant to do.
Does it add a thin layer of extra holding strength specially considering there is zero draft between the mating entities?
Sure.
Based layer khaki and used some small tree branches from the yard with earth brown rust oleum. Randomly placed the branch (small leafs) and sprayed brown over the base painted rifle.
I mean...I don't think anyone believes the bonding is intended to allow the rifle to perform normally without action screws, but I know for a fact it won't come apart on its own.
In my opinion the true benefit of the bonding agent (which IS glue), is to prevent zero shift in the event of a hard knock or rifle drop. An inherent weakness of a flat-bottom action on a flat-faced chassis is lateral impacts can shift the action in the chassis worse that a round action in a v-block.
I shot the best 100-yd group of my life with an unbonded action in my chassis, but then when I beat on the barrel with a mallet the zero shifted. When the action is bonded I didn't have any issues with zero shift.
In my opinion the true benefit of the bonding agent (which IS glue), is to prevent zero shift in the event of a hard knock or rifle drop. An inherent weakness of a flat-bottom action on a flat-faced chassis is lateral impacts can shift the action in the chassis worse that a round action in a v-block.
I shot the best 100-yd group of my life with an unbonded action in my chassis, but then when I beat on the barrel with a mallet the zero shifted. When the action is bonded I didn't have any issues with zero shift.
A very nice setup, and finally a visual on an AI in combination with the Vortex RazorSo I ran my AXSR through K&M's 4 day precision rifle course this past week
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First of all, if you're on the fence about taking a course at K&M ... it was absolutely worth the price of admission and K&M is by far the nicest and most well equipped range I've ever shot at. The cadre consisted of highly experienced instructors from all over the precision rifle spectrum (hunting, PRS, military, etc.) and included Shannon Kay himself.
I went full yolo and ran the AXSR with a 20" 1:10 .308 barrel slinging 175SMK at a super slow ~2500fps. I figured that shooting a boat anchor 308 would amplify any mistakes and therefore make for better training and it sure did! I think I averaged around a 65 to 70% hit rate and especially past 800 things got pretty challenging when the wind picked up. But I did manage to clean a run at 600/700/800/900/1000 and any misses within my powerband of 800 yards could be traced to some sort of mistake on my end. With my AXSR weighing in at 22lbs I was for the most part able to call my shots and see both my misses and impacts.
We cycled through almost every style of long range shooting ... they took us out to 1200 yards from prone on day 1 (this was sheer luck but I did connect at least once on 1200 with the 308) and as the class progressed we worked our way to on the clock PRS-style stages that required building multiple shooting positions.
Targets varied from things like dueling plate racks at 300 and 500 to 12" movers at 500, hostage rescue targets in busses and a variety of game silhouettes anywhere from 300 to 800 yards out. You basically get to shoot every single range and target at K&M. You are shooting for about 6 to 8 hours a day with instructors spotting for you. They constantly adjust and reaffirm your fundamentals.
What I really enjoyed about K&M's approach is their focus on teaching you how to troubleshoot your own training. You walk out of there with a very clear and repeatable training methodology that you can immediately start repping out at your home range as well. The instructors were polite, professional, and always focused on the students.
The AXSR hammered but I did once more experience the forend coming loose about 300 rounds into the class. Last time this happened I put vibratite but that seemed to have cleared off entirely so this time I blue locktited it in at 55inch/lbs. If it comes loose a 4th time AI is getting a call. There was another AXSR in the class that didn't have any issues so I'm suspecting the threads in my forend aren't holding torque properly for whatever reason.
The class did really shake out my gear and I learned a ton about what I like and will continue using and what I will never touch again. For the AXSR the first thing I did when I got home today was to bump up my ring height to 1.5" because at my previous ring height the cheek rest bottomed out and I found myself hunting for a sight picture during class in certain positions. I had to really lean into the rifle to get eyes on targets which in turn introduced unneeded muscle tension into the rifle. I was also fighting my rear bag from prone a LOT because I brought a git-lite filled pintsize gamechanger. Once I switched to a heavy sand schmedium things significantly improved.
I was expecting more issues with the AXSR 308 mags but they ended up running pretty flawlessly now that they're tuned. In 4 days of non-stop shooting I only had a single issue with a double feed (which I'm fairly certain was induced by me).
Overall 10/10 ... would definitely attend again.
Just for my reference, why are You using the red dot mounted on top of the scope ? Easy target acquisition ?
I have read throughout this thread that while 49lbs is the spec for the barrel, many have found 55lbs to be the sweet spot for returning to zero.
If I do not intend to change out my barrel until it is shot out, will 49lbs suffice?
-Stan
If I do not intend to change out my barrel until it is shot out, will 49lbs suffice?
-Stan
You can test it for yourself, but if it's shooting good at 49 in-lbs there's probably no reason to change.
I never had an issue with 49 in-lbs personally. I had a theory that for the bonded rifles (AT/AX) that had issues with 49 and needed to go up to 55 or even 65 in-lbs, that the barrel clamping feature had excess epoxy on it that prevented it from moving freely. This was shown on a rifle or two that had been de-bonded to be put into an aftermarket chassis. Obviously this wouldn't apply to non-bonded rifles.
I agree with @samb300. Just shoot your zeroed rifle, loosen the barrel, unscrew it a bit and screw it in, and then try 49lbs. Shoot again and see where the shots go. Try other torque values if 49 is no bueno.
Do this a few times and you’ll know the answer for your gun.
Personally, I follow the process here:
Going MC: Cadex Kraken or AI AXSR?
Hello all. I've owned an AI AWM in .300 WM since the early 2000s. I've decided it's time to sell it and move to a multi caliber platform. Long range opportunities are rare around here so having a .308 for regular use that can occasionally be converted to a long distance chambering makes sense...
www.snipershide.com
Except on my AX, I am lazy and don’t take off the handguard or wipe the mating surface on the front of the action (can’t reach it with handguard on). My AT is easier in this way.
I use 60lbs. I haven’t tested it. I should. So take my advice for what it’s worth.
I think installing the barrel when the gun is upright is easier anyway. Doing it consistently the same way might/might not be important. I fall into the former camp.
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I feel this. After my May match, I decided to rip the rifle apart and clean it. Last weekend the sky decided to open up and was caught out in it for a few hours. Finally unpacked and found that many hardware screws had rusted. Quite a few buttpad/stock and forend bridge screws were pretty rough. Its a chore to rip it down and put it back together. Luckily the sonic cleaner helped with a light coat of oil.
Are most AI shooters using torque wrenches calibrated well enough to distinguish between 49 and 55 ?
That’s basically 10% and a quick google search said most torque wrenches are advertised +- 2-6%
That’s basically 10% and a quick google search said most torque wrenches are advertised +- 2-6%
This is essentially what the ATLE model is. Doubt anyone will ever frown upon it.
