Accuracy International Picture Thread

#19,051
hafejd30 said:
With the ATX checking torque is much more involved then a standard chassis as you have to take it apart each time
Click to expand...
I feel this. After my May match, I decided to rip the rifle apart and clean it. Last weekend the sky decided to open up and was caught out in it for a few hours. Finally unpacked and found that many hardware screws had rusted. Quite a few buttpad/stock and forend bridge screws were pretty rough. Its a chore to rip it down and put it back together. Luckily the sonic cleaner helped with a light coat of oil.
 
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#19,054
taliv said:
Are most AI shooters using torque wrenches calibrated well enough to distinguish between 49 and 55 ?

That’s basically 10% and a quick google search said most torque wrenches are advertised +- 2-6%
Click to expand...
I use the Fix It Stick 49 in-lb limiter, which yes, is listed as being +/- 6% (46 - 52 in-lb)
 
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#19,055
carbonbased said:
I agree with @samb300. Just shoot your zeroed rifle, loosen the barrel, unscrew it a bit and screw it in, and then try 49lbs. Shoot again and see where the shots go. Try other torque values if 49 is no bueno.

Do this a few times and you’ll know the answer for your gun.

Personally, I follow the process here:
www.snipershide.com

Going MC: Cadex Kraken or AI AXSR?

Hello all. I've owned an AI AWM in .300 WM since the early 2000s. I've decided it's time to sell it and move to a multi caliber platform. Long range opportunities are rare around here so having a .308 for regular use that can occasionally be converted to a long distance chambering makes sense...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

Except on my AX, I am lazy and don’t take off the handguard or wipe the mating surface on the front of the action (can’t reach it with handguard on). My AT is easier in this way.

I use 60lbs. I haven’t tested it. I should. So take my advice for what it’s worth.

I think installing the barrel when the gun is upright is easier anyway. Doing it consistently the same way might/might not be important. I fall into the former camp.
Click to expand...
^^^

I use 65 and the AT and AXMC produce slightly better groups at that setting. Nothing to lose sleep over though.
 
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#19,056
taliv said:
Are most AI shooters using torque wrenches calibrated well enough to distinguish between 49 and 55 ?

That’s basically 10% and a quick google search said most torque wrenches are advertised +- 2-6%
Click to expand...
I use my Snap-On torque wrench which I calibrate annually. In the field I use torque limiters that are not calibrated
 
Last edited:
#19,057
taliv said:
Are most AI shooters using torque wrenches calibrated well enough to distinguish between 49 and 55 ?

That’s basically 10% and a quick google search said most torque wrenches are advertised +- 2-6%
Click to expand...
I just bought the 55 inch lbs limiter from fix it sticks. Plan to start using just that on the AI’s. Currently I use a FAT wrench.

I use one specific fat wrench for barrels currently. If I put the red line underneath the 50 it’s 50 inch lbs. If on the top it’s 55 inch lbs. That’s not to say it’s exactly that number but if I tighten at that number with that wrench every time and it works then at least I have a spot to return to every time. Maybe it’s only accurate to 10% I don’t know. But I do know if I put 55 lbs on it I’ll be probably 50-60” lbs. If I try 49” lbs maybe I only put 44” lbs.

I know the gun shoots good between 50-60 so I’m ok with that margin of error. I’d rather be there than mid 40’s.

There’s many “what if’s” when it comes to torque wrench’s. It could fail anytime and the same torque wrench sitting next to it may be 6-10% off vs the identical one you’re using. So either check calibration Frequently or at very least use the same tool or witness marks to help eliminate variables
 
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#19,058
This thread now has me thinking about how much I torque my barrels on my AT and AXMC. I currently use a FAT wrench specifically just for that and set it at 50 inch lbs. now I am thinking about getting the 49 in/lbs or 55 in/lbs for my fix it sticks. Given the possible inherent error in the system is it better to go with the 55 over the recommended 49 by AI? I haven’t noticed any issues but I haven’t really tested anything either. I do remove my barrels for cleaning most of the time just because I think it ends up being easier.
 
#19,059
Homelander said:
I feel this. After my May match, I decided to rip the rifle apart and clean it. Last weekend the sky decided to open up and was caught out in it for a few hours. Finally unpacked and found that many hardware screws had rusted. Quite a few buttpad/stock and forend bridge screws were pretty rough. It’s a chore to rip it down and put it back together. Luckily the sonic cleaner helped with a light coat of oil.
Click to expand...
I ripped mine down and loctite it in about 15 minutes. Had it all back together and ready to rock.

My gripes are I don’t want to have to do that just to check the action screws. It’s a PITA and you’ll definitely want to confirm zero after. I’m beginning load developing with mine currently so I’m ok with doing this to ensure it stays put and would rather make changes now than after finding a load.

Pending I keep the gun if my screws start rusting I’ll get the OD green paint out and turn that elite sand into elite grass in a few minutes. Not problem solved but for sure not caring about a rusty screw head after that

I’ll be perfectly honest here and may get flamed for it.

After owning 3 AI models now 2014 AT, 2022 ATX and 2013 AXMC I’m learning a lot and developing preferences

To me the old school bonded AI like the AW/AT/AX are my preference. I really want to like this ATX and it’s definitely setup more for “gaming” like prs and modern styles of shooting. But I don’t shoot prs. For my style the AW/AT thumbhole are the holy grail

I think the ATX personally is kind of a crap weapon. (This is where you start flinging poo)

There’s should be no reason why a new model AI should be backwards from is predecessor. The ATX to me feels like someone sat down and came up with a solution to guys wanting a $7000 rifle for $3500. Maybe the new XC will be the ticket. Two more action screws and maybe torque to 53” lbs like the AXSR

There’s no reason the ATX chassis should ever need the action screws checked regularly. There no excuses whatsoever for why the bolt lift is so stiff on the ATX. This is a gun that’s designed to be shot of props. For that use the forend vs the AX is a winner. The trigger is an absolute winner. Then you take it right in the shorts on the follow up shot. That bolt lift (I’m not whining just pointing it out) destroys the whole system on follow up shots

I sold my AXMC due to ergonomics. But I feel I could put up with ergonomics now and do have a touch of remorse wishing I had the AXMC yet

If this ATX turns into an absolute hammer and the blue loctite holds (which I’m sure it will) this will be a great rifle. The minute I loose confidence in it I’ll sell it and get another AT or AXMC. Or build a custom like an impact/MDT/trigger tech setup.

I love love love my AT. I just wish AI would stay in the lane of being military/LE rifles that are available to civilians. Not venturing into gaming guns. They went for the prs market. In my opinion came up short. Then eliminate the rifles they’ve been known for.

Now you have the option of the ATXC and AXSR. Which you bring to shot show saying the action is so much better. Then leave the fucking bolt out of it. Hello!!!!! AI? You increased the price to $7000 then left out the one thing everyone wants to know if it’s changed. Piss poor marketing.

They tell you it’s better. Leave the bolt out. Then tell you the current ATX is machined so well it doesn’t need bonding. Then they add 2 more screws to the action in the next gen

Rant over. But AI,

We want

1) AT with a thumbhole
2) ATXC MIL/LE version
3) AXSR
4) ATM with thumbhole (300/338 variants)

Make those four models available and go back to whatever the difference is between my 14 AT and 22 ATX and make the bolt feel like that again
 
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#19,060
I hope everyone now worries that whenever they have a single flier, maybe it's because they didn't torque their quick loc screw to exactly 54.3 in-lbs using a calibrated Snap On digital torque wrench.

"It's definitely not YOU, it's THE SCREW"

Funny, I've never worried about action screws or quick loc screw torque...
 
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#19,062
samb300 said:
I hope everyone now worries that whenever they have a single flier, maybe it's because they didn't torque their quick loc screw to exactly 54.3 in-lbs using a calibrated Snap On digital torque wrench.

"It's definitely not YOU, it's THE SCREW"

Funny, I've never worried about action screws or quick loc screw torque...
Click to expand...
The quickloc isn’t as big of a deal. But like what happened to the guy above. Paying/traveling to a match or hunt/range day whatever can take a sour turn if the action screws come loose. His isn’t the first time we’ve seen the issue with them either so it’s worth the discussion on how to address I think

To be fair many have had the same thing happen on MPA and MDT chassis as well. Not just an AI thing obviously but wasn’t an issue with the bonded guns. The kicker is what it takes to check the torque on the ATX screws during a match

You must remember,

This is the Hide

We buy super expensive stuff, then identify a problem that occurs in 1/1000 samples, make a big deal of it, find a way to modify it, everyone buys or makes the correction

Then we sell it two days later and start the process over with something else
 
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#19,064
hafejd30 said:
The quickloc isn’t as big of a deal. But like what happened to the guy above. Paying/traveling to a match or hunt/range day whatever can take a sour turn if the action screws come loose. His isn’t the first time we’ve seen the issue with them either so it’s worth the discussion on how to address I think

To be fair many have had the same thing happen on MPA and MDT chassis as well. Not just an AI thing obviously but wasn’t an issue with the bonded guns. The kicker is what it takes to check the torque on the ATX screws during a match

You must remember,

This is the Hide

We buy super expensive stuff, then identify a problem that occurs in 1/1000 samples, make a big deal of it, find a way to modify it, everyone buys or makes the correction

Then we sell it two days later and start the process over with something else
Click to expand...
Agreed, and any time a gear issue affects a match result it's frustrating.

I wonder why the current action screws are only 35 in-lb. I use 55 in-lb for all 4 action screws on the AT/AX/AO, which has the small diameter rear screws (near the trigger guard) and standard diameter screws at the recoil lug.
 
#19,065
hafejd30 said:
I ripped mine down and loctite it in about 15 minutes. Had it all back together and ready to rock.

My gripes are I don’t want to have to do that just to check the action screws. It’s a PITA and you’ll definitely want to confirm zero after. I’m beginning load developing with mine currently so I’m ok with doing this to ensure it stays put and would rather make changes now than after finding a load.

Pending I keep the gun if my screws start rusting I’ll get the OD green paint out and turn that elite sand into elite grass in a few minutes. Not problem solved but for sure not caring about a rusty screw head after that

I’ll be perfectly honest here and may get flamed for it.

After owning 3 AI models now 2014 AT, 2022 ATX and 2013 AXMC I’m learning a lot and developing preferences

To me the old school bonded AI like the AW/AT/AX are my preference. I really want to like this ATX and it’s definitely setup more for “gaming” like prs and modern styles of shooting. But I don’t shoot prs. For my style the AW/AT thumbhole are the holy grail

I think the ATX personally is kind of a crap weapon. (This is where you start flinging poo)

There’s should be no reason why a new model AI should be backwards from is predecessor. The ATX to me feels like someone sat down and came up with a solution to guys wanting a $7000 rifle for $3500. Maybe the new XC bonded will be the ticket but that’s only LE/MIL available to my knowledge

There’s no reason the ATX chassis should ever need the action screws checked regularly. There no excuses whatsoever for why the bolt lift is so stiff on the ATX. This is a gun that’s designed to be shot of props. For that use the forend vs the AX is a winner. The trigger is an absolute winner. Then you take it right in the shorts on the follow up shot. That bolt lift (I’m not whining just pointing it out) destroys the whole system on follow up shots

I sold my AXMC due to ergonomics. But I feel I could put up with ergonomics now and do have a touch of remorse wishing I had the AXMC yet

If this ATX turns into an absolute hammer and the blue loctite holds (which I’m sure it will) this will be a great rifle. The minute I loose confidence in it I’ll sell it and get another AT or AXMC. Or build a custom like an impact/MDT/trigger tech setup.

I love love love my AT. I just wish AI would stay in the lane of being military/LE rifles that are available to civilians. Not venturing into gaming guns. They went for the prs market. In my opinion came up short. Then eliminate the rifles they’ve been known for.

Now you have the option of the ATXC and AXSR. Which you bring to shot show saying the action is so much better. Then leave the fucking bolt out of it. Hello!!!!! AI? You increased the price to $7000 then left out the one thing everyone wants to know if it’s changed. Piss poor marketing.

They tell you it’s better. Leave the bolt out. Then tell you the current ATX is machined so well it doesn’t need bonding. Then they add 2 more screws to the action and bond the rifles meant for hard use like the MIL/LE version.

Rant over. But AI,

We want

1) AT with a thumbhole
2) ATXC MIL/LE version
3) AXSR in MIL/LE version
4) ATM with thumbhole (300/338 variants)

Make those three models available and go back to whatever the difference is between my 14 AT and 22 ATX and make the bolt feel like that again
Click to expand...
What would an AXSR Mil/LE even be though?
 
#19,066
samb300 said:
Agreed, and any time a gear issue affects a match result it's frustrating.

I wonder why the current action screws are only 35 in-lb. I use 55 in-lb for all 4 action screws on the AT/AX/AO, which has the small diameter rear screws (near the trigger guard) and standard diameter screws at the recoil lug.
Click to expand...
My guess would be the chassis design more than the action. But just a guess. Maybe 55 messes up the chassis. Otherwise should be the same screws?

Throw it in a vision/folding thumbhole/bonded? 😎👍
 
#19,068
samb300 said:
You've heard that new mil rifle variants are bonded?
Click to expand...
I thought it was discussed here before about them being bonded. But I can’t find it. I’m probably incorrect in that statement

But to his question I think it be cool if they bonded the ATXC and AXSR. Just peace of mind if nothing else.

Has anyone ever seen the AXSR action screws loosen up?

Just looking at the pdf it seems these have an extra screw but also torqued to 53 inch lbs vs 35 on the ATX

Maybe the 4 screw ATX can be torqued to 53 inch lbs as well?? Someone from AI could probably answer why it’s 35 lbs as I’m sure it was left that low for a reason
 
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#19,077
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#19,079
Nik H said:
Thanks

I didn't know this existed in electronic form. However, p10 says 49 in-pounds and p49 says 53 in-pounds. Which is it? Do you use blue Loctite?

My AXMC manual doesn't talk about action screws...probably because it is bonded.
Click to expand...
I don’t have an AXSR

Just found it for you as I looked it up earlier to
 
#19,082
samb300 said:
I hope everyone now worries that whenever they have a single flier, maybe it's because they didn't torque their quick loc screw to exactly 54.3 in-lbs using a calibrated Snap On digital torque wrench.

"It's definitely not YOU, it's THE SCREW"

Funny, I've never worried about action screws or quick loc screw torque...
Click to expand...
I see what you are saying, although you could have grown up balls and not hide behind sarcasm; we get it.

At 800 rds my rear action screw was loose. When i purchased the rifle new i assumed it was good to go and kept shooting it. First give away was the barrel tilting towards left ever so slightly. I thought the tq was off and no it was not. I had to take the rifle apart to find out the read left action screw was loose. I did tq everything with 243 locktite applied and shot the rifle next day and had the best group i ever had with it. I never made a fuss about it till it was mentioned here. I am cool with it and will move on.

There is nothing wrong about being tedious. A tedious person can also be a phenomenal shooter simultaneously.

Hafejd has very valid points with at-x including the bolt and overall. Some i do not agree but it is a good conversation.

(I love my at-x)
 
#19,083
xxflyingturtlexx said:
I see what you are saying, although you could have grown up balls and not hide behind sarcasm; we get it.

At 800 rds my rear action screw was loose. When i purchased the rifle new i assumed it was good to go and kept shooting it. First give away was the barrel tilting towards left ever so slightly. I thought the tq was off and no it was not. I had to take the rifle apart to find out the read left action screw was loose. I did tq everything with 243 locktite applied and shot the rifle next day and had the best group i ever had with it. I never made a fuss about it till it was mentioned here. I am cool with it and will move on.

There is nothing wrong about being tedious. A tedious person can also be a phenomenal shooter simultaneously.

Hafejd has very valid points with at-x including the bolt and overall. Some i do not agree but it is a good conversation.

(I love my at-x)
Click to expand...
Who said I was being sarcastic? Clearly I struck a nerve with you and your Snap On torque wrenches.

If you’d like to have a very serious and very grown up conversation on AI stuff let me know, otherwise I’ll be over here not worrying about the torque on my bonded rifle.
 
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#19,084
I’m just here to watch torque limiters kiss under the tripod shelf.
D593A4AC-2A36-4AAD-B896-3B9283B92C9F.jpeg
 
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#19,094
Bart Weemaels said:
Is it just optic illusion, or is the optic touching the forend bridge ?
Click to expand...
Its very close, but there is probably 3-4 mm of gap between the sunshade/scope cap and the forend rail. If I change mounts on that rifle, I would like to get a 1.7" 20 moa mount to give it some additional room. The current mount is a 1.5" 20 moa.
 
#19,096
jps24 said:
Hey all,

I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction for custom made barrels for the post-2014 AI AXMC? I have a long action currently with a 6.5CM barrel, but was looking at the possibility of a 6.5 x 47 or 25 x 47 Lapua barrel if those are possible.

Thanks.

View attachment 8448504
Click to expand...

Bugholes
 
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#19,097
jps24 said:
Hey all,

I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction for custom made barrels for the post-2014 AI AXMC? I have a long action currently with a 6.5CM barrel, but was looking at the possibility of a 6.5 x 47 or 25 x 47 Lapua barrel if those are possible.

Thanks.

View attachment 8448504
Click to expand...
Lots of great smiths out there. Fritz at Black Canyon has made AI barrels for my AT and MC. I would highly recommend his work.

The hardest part is getting a blank. The 1.35" shank is tough to find. I have a new 308 barrel being done by Dave Tooley for my MC and he said 6 months to get the blank.
 
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#19,098
Nik H said:
Lots of great smiths out there. Fritz at Black Canyon has made AI barrels for my AT and MC. I would highly recommend his work.

The hardest part is getting a blank. The 1.35" shank is tough to find. I have a new 308 barrel being done by Dave Tooley for my MC and he said 6 months to get the blank.
Click to expand...
@Nik H where are your to go places for blanks?
 
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