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6.5 Creedmoor

Yesterday I was able to shoot some loads of 120gr ELDM's with IMR-4320. Couldn't find any load data for it since it's been out of commission for a while but found that it's right in between varget and Win748. Both has almost identical load data for the 120s. Used Hornady brass, temp was about 76, and almost no wind all at 100 yards.

I started my load at 37gr and went to 39.5 in half grain increments, using 5 shots per load. the first string i wasn't hitting paper then realized that my dope was set from the last competition for 400 yard. but the last two shots didn't show any promise anyways.

Some were absolutely horrible while others showed some promise. i have an issue with my eyes getting blurry the more i shoot and also didn't have the luxury of time on my hands to really let the barrel cool as much as i wanted. Speeds were good and didn't get any signs of over pressure.
 

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Yesterday I was able to shoot some loads of 120gr ELDM's with IMR-4320. Couldn't find any load data for it since it's been out of commission for a while but found that it's right in between varget and Win748. Both has almost identical load data for the 120s. Used Hornady brass, temp was about 76, and almost no wind all at 100 yards.

I started my load at 37gr and went to 39.5 in half grain increments, using 5 shots per load. the first string i wasn't hitting paper then realized that my dope was set from the last competition for 400 yard. but the last two shots didn't show any promise anyways.

Some were absolutely horrible while others showed some promise. i have an issue with my eyes getting blurry the more i shoot and also didn't have the luxury of time on my hands to really let the barrel cool as much as i wanted. Speeds were good and didn't get any signs of over pressure.
What's your process to control neck tension? Also are you getting consistent CBTO measurements during seating?

I would also double check the diopter if things go blurry on you. Unless you have other eye issues, that is your eye getting tired from being behind the scope for long periods.
 
What's your process to control neck tension? Also are you getting consistent CBTO measurements during seating?

I would also double check the diopter if things go blurry on you. Unless you have other eye issues, that is your eye getting tired from being behind the scope for long periods.
My controll process is simple, size it through my hornady dies and that's it. They are all trimmed to length, and ran through the sizing die, then SS cleaned again. Seating is all done on my hornday die and once it's set to the proper COAL, that's all I check. I know I can get more into the weeds on it but I don't.

As for the eye things, it's just fatigue. Doesn't matter which scope I use, it's all the same after a while.
 
My controll process is simple, size it through my hornady dies and that's it. They are all trimmed to length, and ran through the sizing die, then SS cleaned again. Seating is all done on my hornday die and once it's set to the proper COAL, that's all I check. I know I can get more into the weeds on it but I don't.

As for the eye things, it's just fatigue. Doesn't matter which scope I use, it's all the same after a while.
I gotcha and totally understand. I'll just mention when I started reloading 2 years ago I had a hell of a time getting neck tension under control to drop SDs and get consistent seating pressure. Redding Competition Type S die with a .290 bushing completely solved it. I'm always under 5 SD and never over 15ES on a 30 round string. That really stepped up my handloads.
 
I gotcha and totally understand. I'll just mention when I started reloading 2 years ago I had a hell of a time getting neck tension under control to drop SDs and get consistent seating pressure. Redding Competition Type S die with a .290 bushing completely solved it. I'm always under 5 SD and never over 15ES on a 30 round string. That really stepped up my handloads.
I'll check that die out. I've wanted to try a bushing die out before I spent the money on one first but might just have to go for it.
 
I gotcha and totally understand. I'll just mention when I started reloading 2 years ago I had a hell of a time getting neck tension under control to drop SDs and get consistent seating pressure. Redding Competition Type S die with a .290 bushing completely solved it. I'm always under 5 SD and never over 15ES on a 30 round string. That really stepped up my handloads.
What neck tension are yoy running?? .2?
 
Any good 130gr loads? I have some 130 SMKs and I am gonna try 41.5 H4350, which was good with some 140gr bthps. Not after screaming max speed. A Good medium speed, accurate load for PRS.

How high have you gone with 130s and H4350?
 
Any good 130gr loads? I have some 130 SMKs and I am gonna try 41.5 H4350, which was good with some 140gr bthps. Not after screaming max speed. A Good medium speed, accurate load for PRS.

How high have you gone with 130s and H4350?

I love the 130s. They just flat out shoot. However, I use the berger AR OTM hybrids. I've taken them up to 2960 from a 24" barrel with no signs of pressure but I never actually settled on that. I was incrementally going up to see where I found signs and never did. I backed down to 42.5 of h4350 and got 2850fps.

My new barrel is at 2850 but with a much lesser charge. I can't remember of the top of my head but I think that's a good speed.
 
Any good 130gr loads? I have some 130 SMKs and I am gonna try 41.5 H4350, which was good with some 140gr bthps. Not after screaming max speed. A Good medium speed, accurate load for PRS.

How high have you gone with 130s and H4350?
I’m running 43gr N555 with 130 TMK’s. Out of an 18” barrel, I’m running right at 2700 fps.
 
What is the reason for using small rifle primers? I reload 6.5G and .308 win so I have both on hand.
These days, I'd say it's because they're so much more available than LRP's. Other than that, the SRP brass can withstand more pressure due to there being more brass in the case head and this means the brass can last longer. In terms of performance, as mentioned, there can be a nice increase in consistency (measured by SD's) and on target, that can show up with a little better results. BUT. . . how well they might perform in these larger cartridges will depend on the ambient temperatures the cartridges are held in as there can be ignition problems in cold winter use.
 
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Good to know. For me the only reason I could think of using small rifle is to use magnum #450 primers as they have a thicker cup. I switched to those on 6.5 Grendel as the #400's were piercing at max pressure. I have ordered my first 6.5 Creedmoor rifle and will begin with boxed ammo but transition to loading eventually. Thanks
 
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Good to know. For me the only reason I could think of using small rifle is to use magnum #450 primers as they have a thicker cup. I switched to those on 6.5 Grendel as the #400's were piercing at max pressure. I have ordered my first 6.5 Creedmoor rifle and will begin with boxed ammo but transition to loading eventually. Thanks
Are you using Alpha brass in you Grendel? If so, then yes. . . I'd expect #400 to have an issue about piercing. Alpha brass has slightly larger flash holes and according to what they mention on their website, that larger flash hole tends to lead to pierced primers on primer cups that are softer thinner cups. Going to 450's with Alpha brass is a good choice and what I use on my .308 Alpha brass for that reason. On my SRP Lapua and Peterson brass for my .308, 400's work with no piercing issue.

BTW: Given the smaller case capacity of a Grendel case, I doubt there'd ever be an issue using SPR's in colder weather . . . especially hotter primers like the 450's.
 
Good to know. For me the only reason I could think of using small rifle is to use magnum #450 primers as they have a thicker cup. I switched to those on 6.5 Grendel as the #400's were piercing at max pressure. I have ordered my first 6.5 Creedmoor rifle and will begin with boxed ammo but transition to loading eventually. Thanks

The Hornady ammo will be large rifle primers but they are no problem. All I have used in my Creedmoors since 2008 and I can load very good ES/SD numbers so don’t sweat that if you use large rifle primers. Use large rifle on all my larger center fires and no problem with loading good ammo. Don’t feel you need small rifle primers because you don’t.
 
I bought brass when things were hard to find so I wound up with Nosler for $1 each and starline for .40 each. I was trying to get too much velocity out of 123sst’s because my reticle at 750 only reveals 22-24 moa on the tree and I tried to get 2550+ to keep the drop in that range. I’ve since switched to 107TMK’s to get it to 23moa.
 
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No, it was through gunwerks. There’s a 60% chance it was one of the once fired since I mixed the 300 once fired with the 200 factory brass I fired. Just kind of a sanity check here, I dont think I did anything wrong that would have caused this. Load process is
1. Deprime
2. Wet tumble
3. Anneal (only plan to do every 3 or so)
4. imperial dry lube on neck and imperial wax on body.
5. Size to .002 bump
6. Trim and chamfer
7. Wipe brass with rag with alcohol on it to remove wax
8. Charge with autotrickler
9. Seat

Hope this is just a bad piece of brass or I figure out something I am missing that caused it.

Separate the case and do a thickness measurement on either side of the fracture . Sacrifice another once fired case cut it where your separated case fractured . Do You see any significant thickness variation ?.

If nothing else it will put your mind at ease ,as to flawed manufacture or Problem with chamber case stretching ?. Either way YOU'LL KNOW .

I have in excess of #10 firings on MY cases ,Norma ,Hornday and PPU ,all without issues . I partial anneal neck/shoulder after every 3 Rd. firing .