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The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!

TheGerman said:
That's one of the 'why did they do this shit?' things I have with the MRAD. They're all small, but why??

- Why is the fucking bolt knob plastic. Of all the things you could cut weight on, thanks for saving those 2 ounces on the bolt knob.
- Why is it no matter what color MRAD you get, it always comes with the same black Magpul grip?
- Why can't you put a fucking caliber mark on the damn bolt head?
- Why do the rail piece inserts for the QD swivels allow the swivels to rotate 360 degrees instead of stopping so my sling doesn't try and make origami out of itself?
- You went through all that trouble to make a foldable stock with an adjustable cheek piece and adjustable LOP; why can't the fucking buttplate rotate then?
Click to expand...

I share all of this of course...
- the bolt knob is part of the folding stock lock mechanism. With the plastic ball they solved the problem quick and dirty. If you are interested in the bolt knob guy, go on fb and llok for 'The Polished Knob' The pic you saw are prototypes so no warranties, YMMV, I will test them this weekend.
-the magpul grip is just a placeholder...they are smart guys, they know that if you have six grands in your pocket for their rifle you can have whatever grip you like and each one his own...personally ergo wrapped in vetrap is my choice on all my AR semmies and of course on the MRAD too.
-oh man, you got it! a caliber mark or an id on both barrel ext and bolt head is really needed. I really did not expect they missin this.
-swivels thing and buttplate rotatin should be there period end of story. hope someone from Barrett gets this sooner or later.
 
Knobs project:
One is good. It is just a little too slim at the base to engage the black locker on the stock. The stock folds perfectly. 2F7094EE-87F9-430E-883E-EE7C76F294FF.jpeg
FB3DE3A3-645B-49D2-8509-0AB957F5AF20.jpeg
Working on the other two
 
I wonder if Barrett has any plans to release a 6.5PRC barrel kit....anyone know?
 
My MRAD is currently in like 20 pieces out getting painted.

Sooo bored. I think I found the downside to having all your calibers in 1 gun.
 
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TheGerman said:
My MRAD is currently in like 20 pieces out getting painted.

Sooo bored. I think I found the downside to having all your calibers in 1 gun.
Click to expand...
Buy another in 6.5cm. Send me barrel and bolt. As a result, for the cost of a rifle you would not shoot, you will be never more out of business. That’s how resiliency works.
 
IanHusaberg said:
I second the 6.5 PRC. What Color are you painting your rifle German?
Click to expand...

Scope, rings, cheek piece, mags, barrels all FDE. My chassis is the tan/FDE so it'll all match the FDE from the Magpul grip I switched out.

Plus I like rifles that are mostly all tan, yet have a few varying colors of tan/FDE.
 
^^^^
Your rifle is going to look sick! Bad Ass!!!!

I was looking at the Wiebad site today for the cheek riser cover today. Anyone have experience with there pad on the MRAD? Good, the bad and the ugly?
 
WHY YOU WANT CHEEK COVER FOR MRAD? IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH AS PROCURED FROM BARRETT FIREARMS MANUFACTURING WORKS? YOU THINK NEEDS IMPROVEMENT? THEN MAYBE YOU FIND JOB WITH ARMY OF RUSSIA! YOU HAVE DRINKS WITH MIKHAIL KALASHNIKOV, TRADE STORY OF MANY WEAPONS DESIGNED AND DETAILS OF SCHOOL FOR ENGINEERING!

OR MAYBE YOU NOT DO THIS. PROBABLY IS BECAUSE YOU NEVER DESIGN WEAPON IN WHOLE LIFE. YOU LOOK AT FINE BARRETT RIFLE, THINK IT NEED CRAZY SHIT STICK ON ALL SIDES OF WEAPON. YOU HAVE DISEASE OF AMERICAN CAPITALIST, CHANGE THING THAT IS FINE FOR NO REASON EXCEPT TO LOOK DIFFERENT FROM COMRADE. YOU PUT CHEAP CHEEK COVER OF CHINESE SLAVE FACTORY ON STOCK, YOU PUT BAD SCOPE OF AMERICAN MIDDLE WEST ON OTHER SIDE, YOU PUT FRONT PISTOL GRIP ON BOTTOM SO YOU ARE LIKE AMERICAN MOVIE GUY JOHN RAMBO. MAYBE YOU PUT SEX DILDO ON TOP TO FUCK YOURSELF IN ASSHOLE FOR MAKING SHAMEFUL TRAVESTY OF RIFLE OF MASTERRACE?

RIFLE IS FINE. YOU FUCK IT, IT ONLY GET HEAVY AND YOU STILL NO HIT LARGEST SIDE OF BARN. GO TO FIRING RANGE, PRACTICE WITH MANY MAGAZINE OF CARTRIDGE. THEN YOU NOT NEED DUMB SHIT PUT ON SIDE OF RIFLE.
 
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IanHusaberg said:
^^^^
I was looking at the Wiebad site today for the cheek riser cover today. Anyone have experience with there pad on the MRAD? Good, the bad and the ugly?
Click to expand...
I've got it on mine, I love it. it is formed fairly well (much better then their pad for a Magpul PRS)
 
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IanHusaberg said:
Anyone want to see Barrett make a 6.5 PRC barrel?
Click to expand...

my understanding is that 6.5 PRC is just 10% better than the creed, which is nowaadays a very efficient caliber. And pretty popular...
in order to push a 6.5 pill really fast 26 nosler seems so much better considering short magnums, imho...
 
IanHusaberg said:
Anyone want to see Barrett make a 6.5 PRC barrel?

Is the rifle finished painting and reassembled, German?
Click to expand...

Yes. And then somehow I managed to blow up the internals to my cosine indicator. How is this even possible?

On the plus side, they managed to get in and paint my Luna illuminator before sending the rifle back, and my FLIR Breach arrives this week too. Now I kind of wish I got the PVS30 painted.
 
I just received some 6.5 PRC cases in the mail. I'm looking to launch 147 eld-m's @ 3000 FPS +. We'll see what I can make happen, closer to the 3200 FPS speed limit of PRS matches if I can find a powder that will work? I'll also be shooting the 155 berger when it comes out. I'll be picking up a CA MPR & (Vortex AMG) when the rifle is available, for a hunting rig. I prefer 260 over 6.5 creed in the MRAD anyway. I was shooting 147 eld-m's at 2880-2925 FPS with RL-17, this last summer.

I'm hoping Barret will jump on the band wagon with 6.5 PRC or 6 CM?

Maybe cows or pigs will fly first?
 
IanHusaberg said:
I just received some 6.5 PRC cases in the mail. I'm looking to launch 147 eld-m's @ 3000 FPS +. We'll see what I can make happen, closer to the 3200 FPS speed limit of PRS matches if I can find a powder that will work? I'll also be shooting the 155 berger when it comes out. I'll be picking up a CA MPR & (Vortex AMG) when the rifle is available, for a hunting rig. I prefer 260 over 6.5 creed in the MRAD anyway. I was shooting 147 eld-m's at 2880-2925 FPS with RL-17, this last summer.

I'm hoping Barret will jump on the band wagon with 6.5 PRC or 6 CM?

Maybe cows or pigs will fly first?
Click to expand...

Anytime I think they can't possibly expand calibers I remember they have a .260 and 300 Norma chambering. I keep hoping to keep it original gangster and get one in 8mm Mauser but I don't see them not offering more calibers once newer cartridges get an established following.

Remember how 6.5CM came out of nowhere and then was everywhere?
 
IanHusaberg said:
I just received some 6.5 PRC cases in the mail. I'm looking to launch 147 eld-m's @ 3000 FPS +. We'll see what I can make happen, closer to the 3200 FPS speed limit of PRS matches if I can find a powder that will work? I'll also be shooting the 155 berger when it comes out. I'll be picking up a CA MPR & (Vortex AMG) when the rifle is available, for a hunting rig. I prefer 260 over 6.5 creed in the MRAD anyway. I was shooting 147 eld-m's at 2880-2925 FPS with RL-17, this last summer.

I'm hoping Barret will jump on the band wagon with 6.5 PRC or 6 CM?

Maybe cows or pigs will fly first?
Click to expand...

According to the attached 55.7gr of RL-26 will get you to 3050 with the 47's or 58.5gr of Retumbo but those are the maxes.
 

Attachments

  • 6.5-prc-v2.pdf
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Raik said:
Now here is the barrel cleaned with J-B bore compound. I must say, all of the copper and even nickle is removed. Two times about 20 strokes forward and backward.
Here both views.. straight and 90 degrees with the borescope. And also you can see the crown with a high resolution.



Click to expand...


How do they make these barrels in Barret?
Are they cold hammer forger, or button rifled?
 
Does anybody know the price of the integrally suppressed 308 barrell for the MRAD? I cannod find any infos. I ve only seen it on youtube.
 
Any issue using an original “large breech” 338 Lapua conversion kit with the current small breech MRAD?
 
FunkyTownScout said:
Any issue using an original “large breech” 338 Lapua conversion kit with the current small breech MRAD?
Click to expand...

I had to send my whole gun into Barrett so they could remove the barrel and machine the cuts needed for the torx bolts. They told me I would have to do this with every conversion kit I purchase which tells me there is something different on my older chassis that prevents the new barrels from working.

This is what they emailed me back though so I think you should be good to go using one of the original barrel kits in a newer gun.

Yes, every conversion kit you purchase for this rifle will need notches also. The notches are for the screws to clear. The barrels will still be compatible with the new MRAD models. If you like, you can purchase Barrel Conversion kits directly through Barrett and we can add these notches before the kit leaves the factory.

Sorry for the inconvenience, I attached a prepaid Fedex shipping label for the Barrel Conversion kits. Please let me know if you have any questions.

You could always email them and ask, they always responded quickly to me.
 
bolt knob project update. these two work and are aesthetically better than the plastic ball. 'Work' means that the stock folds, but does not lock on the bolt knob. To lock it, no chance, you need the plastic ball.



IMG_3104.jpg
IMG_3105.jpg
IMG_3109.jpg
 

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Just got the 300 Norma Mag barrel conversion kit for the MRAD...super excited to get some time down range on this. Anyone here have any range time with this caliber yet? Wanted to see if we could bounce some load data off each other since there isn't too much info on this. I have Norma 217 powder and shooting 225 gr ELD-M bullet, I'll let you know how the ladder test works out once this rain goes away.
 
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Well, tried out the BORS out to 750 yards today, and it was superb. It did just what I wanted it to do, if not more while being super intuitive. The fact that it can store more then one vertical zero makes it even more useful with multiple calibers. TBH, I don't feel like Barrett has done a good job of marketing it, and advertising the fine details they've sorted out with it. Sure, it's not cheap, but europtoptic has them on sale right now for what I'd consider a good price. As for me, I'm hoping to find a spot this summer where I can stretch it out to 1000, and the BORS will help me out I'm sure.
 
IanHusaberg said:
^^^^
Your rifle is going to look sick! Bad Ass!!!!

I was looking at the Wiebad site today for the cheek riser cover today. Anyone have experience with there pad on the MRAD? Good, the bad and the ugly?
Click to expand...
I saw the Hoptic saddle blanket for AI stock...I like it. Maybe we could push them to make a Mrad version of it. Spoke with Matt, they are going to make one. In the meanwhile the DT MDR is an easy fit. Will give it a try.
 
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I've read various reviews on the MRAD stating a pull weight adjustable trigger. I checked mine out and the 2 screws I saw adjusted pre travel (reduce creep) and over travel. I didn't see anything to adjust pull weight.
 
FunkyTownScout said:
I've read various reviews on the MRAD stating a pull weight adjustable trigger. I checked mine out and the 2 screws I saw adjusted pre travel (reduce creep) and over travel. I didn't see anything to adjust pull weight.
Click to expand...

Its the top 1/16" allen screw, you have to loosen the 5/16" jam nut and then adjust.

see attached
 

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  • MRAD - Trigger.pdf
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  • MRAD-Trigger Return.pdf
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  • MRAD-Overtravel.pdf
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ok thanks. That appeared to just adjust how much sear engagement there was when I did it but maybe that's the main way to control the pull weight as well.
 
Is there any other (from the ones provided byBarrett directly) rail kit for sale online which can be fitted onto the MRAD? (price is not an issue, international shipment availability is)
tia
 
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Jonsey said:
Green 6.5 Creedmoor, Fluted 24" barrel, Schmidt & Bender PMII, Spuhr 1-piece mount, LRA Tactical bi-pod with foot upgrade and quick detach, CTK monopod, Weibad. This is my 3rd Barrett and so far will be the best one.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the club, I'm confident you won't be disappointed.
 
New guy here and have some questions about cleaning my new MRAD 338LM. Looking at the rifle, it comes from the factory with a lot of oil on the barrel. I was going to take the barrel off and wipe off a lot of the oil which then bring up a few questions 1) How often does one take off the barrel for cleaning/wiping it down? 2) When mounting it back, how much will the POI change? 3) When cleaning, any areas I need to pay extra attention too?

Thanks in advance,

Phil
 
I'd run a dry patch down the barrel if there is that much oil in it and go to shooting, I have about 280rds on my 338 barrel and haven't cleaned it yet.....

Have not experienced any POI shift when changing barrels, just make sure you torque it correctly.
 
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Jmo said:
I'd run a dry patch down the barrel if there is that much oil in it and go to shooting, I have about 280rds on my 338 barrel and haven't cleaned it yet.....

Have not experienced any POI shift when changing barrels, just make sure you torque it correctly.
Click to expand...
I've definitely seen a PIO shift between barrels, but not when reinstalling a barrel

For example, the POI on my 308 barrel is different then my 338LM, but if I install the barrel properly, the 308 POI has never shifted, and neither has my 338 barrel
 
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canuckistaninia said:
I've definitely seen a PIO shift between barrels, but not when reinstalling a barrel

For example, the POI on my 308 barrel is different then my 338LM, but if I install the barrel properly, the 308 POI has never shifted, and neither has my 338 barrel
Click to expand...

Thats what I meant to say, no POI when changing barrels and coming back to the same cal. definite changes from 338 to 308 but back spot on when either are put back on.
 
JMO and Canuckistaninia,
I appreciate the replies. WRT the oil, it's on the outside of the barrel, I was going to clean the inside of the barrel before shooting it and after each round for the first 10 or so shots. The original question was rely about the surfaces between the outside of the barrel and the frame/handguard - how often does one pull it apart and clean/wipe down the surfaces?

Thanks
 
socal-338 said:
JMO and Canuckistaninia,
I appreciate the replies. WRT the oil, it's on the outside of the barrel, I was going to clean the inside of the barrel before shooting it and after each round for the first 10 or so shots. The original question was rely about the surfaces between the outside of the barrel and the frame/handguard - how often does one pull it apart and clean/wipe down the surfaces?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Never....but mine did not have an excessive amount of packing oil. If you need just pop the two Torx screws pull it out, wipe it with a rag and drop it back in before you ever shoot/zero and you wont have to worry about POI shift from the start.

Or you could shoot a lot and burn it off!
 
socal-338 said:
JMO and Canuckistaninia,
I appreciate the replies. WRT the oil, it's on the outside of the barrel, I was going to clean the inside of the barrel before shooting it and after each round for the first 10 or so shots. The original question was rely about the surfaces between the outside of the barrel and the frame/handguard - how often does one pull it apart and clean/wipe down the surfaces?

Thanks
Click to expand...

The oil on the outside is just something they put on in case its in storage/sitting around in a warehouse or gun shop forever. Just hit it with a rag and it'll go away; its on all of the conversion kit barrels as well.

The barrel is the same story as all precision barrels; clean it when you see the accuracy go to shit. Anything before then is a waste of time. Notate the round count you see the decline at because chances are, you'll be right around that same number each time.

As far as taking it apart, I only take the gun apart when I'm switching the barrel. At that point everything gets a once over to make sure there's no weird buildup/debris/grit anywhere, especially where the barrel assembly indexes and between the action and bolt sleeves. If I'm not switching a barrel, there's no reason to take anything apart.

The most important part for making sure you don't get zero shift is to put the barrel in and keep pressure on it (gravity); then close the bolt on it and make sure there's no wiggle room as well as recheck that you're in the indexing groove and that your torque wrench is accurate and not some POS where there's a 20% over/under. I ended up buying a PROTO just for the MRAD.
 
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Another new owner question. When cleaning the bore, what do you recommend for a bore guide?

Thanks,

Phil
 
anthonylombardo said:
My mistake, but for the bore-guide I use this (see below link). Just make sure your cleaning rod is long enough

https://www.boretech.com/products/bore-guide-bolt-action-centerfire
Click to expand...

That looks very similar to the Tipton i use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035M3GM...olid=3PFJK21OLZW3D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

and the longest Dewey rod possible:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028M4CG...olid=3PFJK21OLZW3D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

anyone else use the combination with good results? thanks AnthonyLombardo!
 
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