Yeah sounds terrible!
- Thread starter IanHusaberg
- Start date
Yeah sounds terrible!
Yeah I don't know what I'm going to do in the next 40-50 years of retirement either.
Yeah I don't know what I'm going to do in the next 40-50 years of retirement either.
Lots of quality MRAD time! What else?
Sadly, the winter here has just been frigid, we've been dealing with "high" temperatures in the -20 F range with the windchill. It's hard to get out, and shoot in that weather
I can only hope this cold spell will break and we will get to thaw a little soon, my BORS should be here in the next month and I want to take it for a spin!
I can only hope this cold spell will break and we will get to thaw a little soon, my BORS should be here in the next month and I want to take it for a spin!
Sadly, the winter here has just been frigid, we've been dealing with "high" temperatures in the -20 F range with the windchill. It's hard to get out, and shoot in that weather
I can only hope this cold spell will break and we will get to thaw a little soon, my BORS should be here in the next month and I want to take it for a spin!
Winter is in full effect. What scope are you installing the BORS on? Will you report back how it works?
it's going on my ATACR 5-25 w/h59 reticle. and don't worry, I'll be sure to report back to let everyone know how it goes. Sadly, I was hoping to get out to the range and chrony 3 different loads so I could be ready for when it shows up, but this freezing weather is preventing that yet again, this saturday is forecast to be -22F... YAY winter!!
yet again, this saturday is forecast to be -22F... YAY winter!! Send it to me. I'll get that shit sorted out before spring time.
I'm still waiting for Barrett to ship it....ITAR slows everything down terribly for us up here (2.5 months since it was ordered) I was hoping to get it before SHOT show, but the importer at least confirmed it is on a skid, at Barrett, they are just waiting on the export paperwork.
I was hoping to get it before SHOT show, but the importer at least confirmed it is on a skid, at Barrett, they are just waiting on the export paperwork.
In my experience rain effects shooters more than bullets.
Not even a little bit.
What was the DA and temperature when you zero'd the gun?
What was the DA and temperature when you shot in the rain?
Dumb question, do you know what density altitude is and how it can effect your shooting? 100 meters above sea level is your altitude above sea level, but your density altitude (DA) can be much different and is always changing.
You shooting in the rain and having a zero shift is telling me that the DA from the day you zero'd your gun and the temperature have changed enough to alter the exterior ballistics of the gun.
This is very common and you hear it all the time at a gun range where the guy was there last weekend and had his gun zero'd, comes out the next weekend and its shooting 3 inches low and he thinks the scope is loose, or his ammo sucks, etc.
As for rain, no. It should have absolutely zero effect on a shot by shot basis.
and no... maybe my question was not presice enough... i am not wondering about another zero... that is normal with different DA and or temperatures and so on. I am wondering about the larger shot group !! There was really a difference from dry weather to rainy weather
My english is not that best
Other than the environmental effects changing your overall zero (density altitude, temperature) the fact that there was rain would have absolutely no effect on the gun or projectile, or you getting a flyer out of a group.
Depends on the Caliber
3000-4000 rounds depending on speed of projectile. 250-300 gn, I'd imagine speed would play a factor in the barrels life. I have a load with 285 gn eld-x's going 2850 fps and I think thats fast for 338. also a 300 berger load that's 2750 fps (also fast).
It's a lot of powder going boom vs. say 308 which barrel would be triple or double?
Suppose you get only accurate life of 1000 to 1400 rounds. If you shoot retail factory ammo and use the 1000 round life that will be about $5,000 worth of ammo. Handloads and perhaps you could save half that- but you could also load them a little light and increase the life of the barrel, so say it is gong to cost you $5,000 to shoot out the barrel. A brand new conversion kit that includes the bolt face, a mag and the barrel can be had for less than $1,300. So the barrel life is less than 25% of the cost of shooting the big .338. So my point is either get a barrel in a caliber you can shoot for lower cost for most of your shooting or just don't worry about the cost of the barrel.
I know when shooting in the rain and it gets in the action of the firearm it can affect pressure of your chamber. Look for signs of pressure on your rounds to see if there over your normal cases appearance. I'd say 338 is one of the least affected rounds if you shooting in the rain. The bullet does have more surface area than others but more retained velocity (& high BC )than other rounds due to the weight of the projectile.
Barrel life of 6.5 or 260, 3000 win mag is the shortest barrel life of the MRAD at 2000-3000 rounds depending on speed of said projectile. I've been looking into 300 norma it has the barrel life you speak of here.
Ian, if we use your numbers for barrel life 3,000 rounds @ $5.00 that would be $15,000 worth of ammo and a $1,300 barrel. So that barrel is only about 8% of your shooting cost, if all your trips to the range are free. Thus supporting even more strongly my contention that barrel life matters little. How many rounds are down your barrel Ian? I have heard that once the thousand round mark gets passed 1/2 moabecomes more the exception than the rule.
It is just like a .300 WM but with much more kick. You need the Super Secret Squirrel handshake to be allowed to buy the ammo from the government.
I did see something about factory ammo in previous posts. Ammo cost after reloading is around $1.50-2.00 (338 )for me. With the 260 or 6.5 its around a dollarish or less. I'm figuring barrel ware its costing me $.25 per shot.
I've only shot <200 rounds out of my proof 24" 338 barrel. I'd call that not even really broking in yet. I hope for consistent speed out of my loads. Once you get to around the 500 round mark the barrel will be more consistent(lower SD).
Has anyone gotten a replacement barrel yet? I have yet to see any that aern't a full conversion kit and don't feel like buying the entire kit every time I shoot a barrel out.
300WinMag I wouldn't even give it 2k rounds. Any WinMag I've ever shot was gone by the time I hit 1200 rounds on it. I'm still trying to figure out where the 6.5CM would burn a barrel out, as the ranges people mention for it go from 3-6k rounds. A 308 I'd expect at least 10k rounds out of.
300WinMag I wouldn't even give it 2k rounds. Any WinMag I've ever shot was gone by the time I hit 1200 rounds on it. I'm still trying to figure out where the 6.5CM would burn a barrel out, as the ranges people mention for it go from 3-6k rounds. A 308 I'd expect at least 10k rounds out of.
I'd definitely look at 308 as a 6000-8000 round caliber before replacement. I've been considering this caliber as my next Proof barrel and done. For this reason alone. This last summer I was basically renting barrels at around $1 a round for competition( selling gentle used barrels here). I'm looking into 260 (Heavy) barrel, 300 WM ( fluted), 300 NM(heavy) for the next shooting season.
Last edited:
Light & fast Bullets?
In what?
And does anyone make a replacement barrel, or do we literally have to buy a conversion kit each time?
Yeah you'd need to clean if you are switching from FMJ to moly or some sort of coated bullet. I'm not sure that would merit me buying a separate barrel though; but thats up to you.
I was referring to light and fast bullets in 300 wm burning barrels out quickly vs. heavier, high bc bullets going slower saving barrel life?
Just borescoped my 338 MRAD barrel. Its after 70 shots. What do you think what these discolorations are? It looks like copper , but i ve never shot any copper or red brass cardridges. I only shot Nickel plated bullets. RWS speed tip pro.
Is this fouling or a barrel discoloration from heat? Can i clean this? With shooters choice or Eliminator it didnt work.
And what do you think about the barrel condition?
Is this fouling or a barrel discoloration from heat? Can i clean this? With shooters choice or Eliminator it didnt work.
And what do you think about the barrel condition?
I don't see anything that would make me want to clean it any more than you have. How was it shooting? I only clean if a rifle is not shooting well. I don't really care what the bore looks like unless I am purchasing used, if I own the rifle I only care how it shoots.
By the way, to the topic of the point of impact shift in case of barrel change... here the todays answer from Barrett:
If you are installing the exact same barrel within just a few minutes, and all conditions have remained the same, then the impact shift usually is less than 1/2 MOA. If conditions, such as temperature, have changed then the shift could be up to 1 MOA. If you are installing a different barrel, different caliber or barrel length, then that is hard to say as there are so many different variables to consider.
If you are installing the exact same barrel within just a few minutes, and all conditions have remained the same, then the impact shift usually is less than 1/2 MOA. If conditions, such as temperature, have changed then the shift could be up to 1 MOA. If you are installing a different barrel, different caliber or barrel length, then that is hard to say as there are so many different variables to consider.
Not sure, I shot 180s, 208s and 220s. Never really say a reduction in how fast/slow it burned it up.
To me that looks like the nickle plate and probably copper(?) thats underneath it thats getting rubbed off at high speed and heat.
yes that looks like nickle on copper. Nickle can only be removed machanically, right?
You'd just have to find out what solvent/cleaner works on nickle. If I remember right, things like Hoppes wont work on nickle.
What are you guys using for a rod guide? Barrett makes one for the MRAD, but seems to only be for the 338.
There is no solvent for nickle... i ve studied all. But Nickle coated bullets leave near nothing in the barrel. So you have much much less cleaning actions.
For copper i use Eliminator. For Nickle i take J-B compound. I will scope the barrel next days when i am back home.
The rod guide from dewey especially made for the MRAD is great. It was about 30,- bugs directly ordered from dewey.
For copper i use Eliminator. For Nickle i take J-B compound. I will scope the barrel next days when i am back home.
The rod guide from dewey especially made for the MRAD is great. It was about 30,- bugs directly ordered from dewey.
Similar threads
