• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

  • Site updates coming next Wednesday at 8am CT!

    The site will be down for routine maintenance on Wednesday 6/5 starting at 8am CT. If you have any questions, please PM alexj-12!

Tikka T3 Thread

So is the bedding process reversible? How does this change when you are up for a barrel swap? Just trying to learn, sorry if I’m sounding remedial. When is bedding required? I’m about to drop in my .308 Tac A1 action into a KRG Bravo, is bedding required? Needed? Or is just dropping it into the chassis good enough for plinking and hunting?
 
Americancheese said:
So is the bedding process reversible? How does this change when you are up for a barrel swap? Just trying to learn, sorry if I’m sounding remedial. When is bedding required? I’m about to drop in my .308 Tac A1 action into a KRG Bravo, is bedding required? Needed? Or is just dropping it into the chassis good enough for plinking and hunting?
Click to expand...

Bedding is not reversible in general. Can it be done? Sure. If you wanna take the time and effort to remove epoxy or steel bedding material with hand tools. I sure as shit wouldn't do it.

I suggest you drop your action in the stock/chassis first and see how it shoots. I've dropped actions into stocks and they magically went to .5 MOA shooter's without bedding.

Start simple (less $$$) and work your way into the money pit. ?????

As far as bedding and a barrel swap, you are only bedding the action, not any part of the barrel at all. Therefore, bedding would not have any effect on swapping a barrel.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Americancheese
New scope, mount and bipod shoes :)
7067494
 
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: Jayjay1, manki77, Americancheese and 1 other person
Just heads up to you all. Anarchy outdoors is running 10% off everything tikka
 

Attachments

  • 4E4BE6C7-A939-4787-B295-179EAC19E814.png
    4E4BE6C7-A939-4787-B295-179EAC19E814.png
    308.2 KB · Views: 84
For those with a GGS stock, how long did it take for your order to arrive?
 
A lot has been said about the T3 accuracy... Im not there yet but getting to what I think is the end of my barrel life (6.5cm). When I replace the barrel (or have a smith do so) I want to buy the same level or better accuracy. Mine is easily a 1/2” gun as many are, and I don’t want to take a step backward in accuracy. It’s only a paper puncher but I like the bug holes it makes

Thoughts on what barrel to buy? Who in the northeast to do the work
 
Btrain said:
A lot has been said about the T3 accuracy... Im not there yet but getting to what I think is the end of my barrel life (6.5cm). When I replace the barrel (or have a smith do so) I want to buy the same level or better accuracy. Mine is easily a 1/2” gun as many are, and I don’t want to take a step backward in accuracy. It’s only a paper puncher but I like the bug holes it makes

Thoughts on what barrel to buy? Who in the northeast to do the work
Click to expand...
Patriot Valley Arms
 
ruebarb said:
The EGW is not "the only option"
0, 20 & 40 MOA rails

I like EGW rails, but for my Tikka, this has a more advance design for retention.

https://tikkaperformance.com/index....nt/Tikka-T3-Performance-Series-Picatinny-Rail

Click to expand...


A note on the EGW rail. I installed mine today on the Tac A1, and the front face with the threaded hole where the Handguard mount boots to the rail is about 0.035” too short and causes the rail to tilt upwards when the bolts are tightened. For now I’m going to shim it, but I’m going to contact EGW and see what they say about it.
 
ArmchairOperator said:
A note on the EGW rail. I installed mine today on the Tac A1, and the front face with the threaded hole where the Handguard mount boots to the rail is about 0.035” too short and causes the rail to tilt upwards when the bolts are tightened. For now I’m going to shim it, but I’m going to contact EGW and see what they say about it.
Click to expand...

Sounds out of spec to me...couldn’t you just use a shortened bolt?
 
62 in/lbs (7Nm) for the TAC A1 action screws (T3X is different). Manaul doesn't spec a torque for the (5) hand guard screws, just that you tighten the rail screws in an alternating matter. Just use your best judgement. I'm guessing they are in the 15-25 in/lbs range.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ArmchairOperator
Americancheese said:
Sounds out of spec to me...couldn’t you just use a shortened bolt?
Click to expand...
Nope there is a gap that is closed when tightened that results in bending the mount. The 2 faces that the mount bolts to should be online and square with each other. Shims it is unless EGW says it’s out of spec and will replace it.
 
Last edited:
Btrain said:
A lot has been said about the T3 accuracy... Im not there yet but getting to what I think is the end of my barrel life (6.5cm). When I replace the barrel (or have a smith do so) I want to buy the same level or better accuracy. Mine is easily a 1/2” gun as many are, and I don’t want to take a step backward in accuracy. It’s only a paper puncher but I like the bug holes it makes

Thoughts on what barrel to buy? Who in the northeast to do the work
Click to expand...
bugholes
 
tonyXcom said:
62 in/lbs (7Nm) for the TAC A1 action screws (T3X is different). Manaul doesn't spec a torque for the (5) hand guard screws, just that you tighten the rail screws in an alternating matter. Just use your best judgement. I'm guessing they are in the 15-25 in/lbs range.
Click to expand...


That’s the same torque as most scope mount base screws (not the rings, but base).
 
Americancheese said:
So is the bedding process reversible? How does this change when you are up for a barrel swap? Just trying to learn, sorry if I’m sounding remedial. When is bedding required? I’m about to drop in my .308 Tac A1 action into a KRG Bravo, is bedding required? Needed? Or is just dropping it into the chassis good enough for plinking and hunting?
Click to expand...

Bedding is done to add more stability to the system.
It increases accuracy from the first shot after.
I don´t know any rifles which shot worse after bedding, but a lot which did better, and I know some.

My CTR in 6.5 CM almost shot half the groups she did before.

There is absolute no argument why someone would reverse a bedding in my opinion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: clcustom1911
Ok so finally got my rifle together. I was all over the place on whether I wanted a CTR or a Tac A1. I knew I wanted a chassis, and I liked the A1, but decided the CTR would give me more options. So I got the CTR, and was planning to order my scope mount and a KRG Bravo or an MDT HS3, when I came across a good deal on an A1 chassis, so I picked that up. I really like the A1 chassis, and it turns out that was what I really wanted. So ordered the other supporting parts I wanted and this is what I ended up with. Had to mill out the trigger area to clear the wide KRG trigger shoe.

Tikka T3X CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 24”
Tikka Tac A1 Chassis
KRG Midas 2 Stage Trigger
EGW 20moa Tac A1 Scope Rail
American Rifle Company X-High 1.42” 30mm Rings
Weaver Tactical 3-15x50 Scope
Dead Air Muzzle Brake
BCM MLOK 3” Picatinny Rail for Bipod
B&T Atlas PSR Bipod

Current Plans:

Get a pile of ammo
Shoot as much as possible




7068045
7068046
7068047
7068048
7068072
7068073
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 260284, manki77, NiemiPT and 5 others
ArmchairOperator said:
Ok so finally got my rifle together. I was all over the place on whether I wanted a CTR or a Tac A1. I knew I wanted a chassis, and I liked the A1, but decided the CTR would give me more options. So I got the CTR, and was planning to order my scope mount and a KRG Bravo or an MDT HS3, when I came across a good deal on an A1 chassis, so I picked that up. I really like the A1 chassis, and it turns out that was what I really wanted. So ordered the other supporting parts I wanted and this is what I ended up with. Had to mill out the trigger area to clear the wide KRG trigger shoe.

Tikka T3X CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 24”
Tikka Tac A1 Chassis
KRG Midas 2 Stage Trigger
EGW 20moa Tac A1 Scope Rail
American Rifle Company X-High 1.42” 30mm Rings
Weaver Tactical 3-15x50 Scope
Dead Air Muzzle Brake
BCM MLOK 3” Picatinny Rail for Bipod
B&T Atlas PSR Bipod

Current Plans:

Get a pile of ammo
Shoot as much as possible




View attachment 7068045View attachment 7068046View attachment 7068047View attachment 7068048View attachment 7068072View attachment 7068073
Click to expand...

Looks good!
 
  • Like
Reactions: ArmchairOperator
Also this is what I meant about a gap with the EGW rail. There’s about a 0.028” gap. Currently using some washers 0.040” ish to take up the space but they are a little too thick. Working on a permanent solution. But it causes the Handguard to tilt upward quite a bit and just isn’t right.
7068080
 
So after installing the action and torquing everything down to 65 inch/lbs for action and 45 inch lbs behind the action, the trigger is no firing. I removed the action and test fired and everything was good to go. Any ideas? I know the instructions say to remove the trigger spring clip on the T3, but the Tac A1 trigger is different and doesn’t have the clip,
 
Americancheese said:
So after installing the action and torquing everything down to 65 inch/lbs for action and 45 inch lbs behind the action, the trigger is no firing. I removed the action and test fired and everything was good to go. Any ideas? I know the instructions say to remove the trigger spring clip on the T3, but the Tac A1 trigger is different and doesn’t have the clip,
Click to expand...

Update, I emailed KRG, probably won’t hear back til Monday. So it’s causing issues when the rear action bolt by the trigger is installed...I installed the forward action bolt and trigger still worked.
 
Americancheese said:
Update, I emailed KRG, probably won’t hear back til Monday. So it’s causing issues when the rear action bolt by the trigger is installed...I installed the forward action bolt and trigger still worked.
Click to expand...

Update...trigger inop even when rear action bolt is removed. WTF
 
ArmchairOperator said:
if you are using the KRG Midas in a Tac A1 you will have to mill the trigger opening in the chassis wider and longer toward the rear to create clearance for it. If this is not what you are talking about, ignore what I am saying, ha
Click to expand...

So no krg...the problem was that the chassis was binding against the safety linkage preventing it from fully engaging forward and selecting fire. I had to make a small adjustment with the set screw that holds the safety linkage in place against the trigger wall. Needless to say, the Bravo is out of spec, because every time I pulled the action out of the chassis, the trigger worked perfectly. I installed and removed it at least 10 times to troubleshoot it, and spent roughly 5 hours figuring it out.

Just waiting on my Steiner P4xi 4-16
 

Attachments

  • 23A57527-D1EA-4BEE-9232-89C42F17FF63.jpeg
    23A57527-D1EA-4BEE-9232-89C42F17FF63.jpeg
    299.4 KB · Views: 174
Last edited:
ArmchairOperator said:
Also this is what I meant about a gap with the EGW rail. There’s about a 0.028” gap. Currently using some washers 0.040” ish to take up the space but they are a little too thick. Working on a permanent solution. But it causes the Handguard to tilt upward quite a bit and just isn’t right. View attachment 7068080
Click to expand...


Are you concerned because of how it looks or functionality? I don’t think the gap will impact accuracy.
 
Americancheese said:
Are you concerned because of how it looks or functionality? I don’t think the gap will impact accuracy.
Click to expand...

Functionality. It causes the handguard mounting ring to torque upward and misalign the Handguard. The scope base with the bolt hole and the 2 lower bolt hole face should be on the same plane so the ring can sit flat against them when tightened. In this case they are not even. I spoke to EGW and they have not encountered this issue. It may or may not be a possible issue with the EGW rail on some chassis. I’m just going to put a shim back there to take up the gap which should fix the problem. Just gotta fins the right shim...
 
Question to you guys:

My CTR in 6.5 CM with a 24" barrel shoots at its best (homesickness and tail wind included) barely .5 MOA 3 shot groups, but not always repeatable.

The 308 Win 20" CTRs of my friends all do shoot better groups without doing to much about it.

So yesterday I was the first time out at the range with my new Magneto Speed mounted to the muzzle.

What happened?
All my groups (3 loads with 3 different bullets) improved!
I shot my first .3 MOA group (which is all I´m dreaming of) and all were under .5 MOA, what never was the case before.

I was stunned and never expected this to happen.


Did someone make a similar experience?
Does somebody have experience with barrel dampers or barrel weights with his Tikka?
:unsure:
 
Had an idea to make the A1 accept AR15 Handguards. Now that I have a rifle I can prototype. Have 2 possibilities as of right now. 1) Make a custom mount based on the Tikka mount, but threaded to accept and AR15 barre nut or 2) Make a custom mount that will directly interface with an AR15 rail. Options with this include the Seekins and the Aero Precision and the MI Supressor Ready Rail, probably others but I see those as being candidates since they seem to be the right diameter. Option 1 would be the most customizable, but I’ve run into difficulties due to the diameter it has to be to accept AR15 barrel nuts, might look at ar10 nuts. Option 2 will work but will be difficult to manufacture multiple interfaces. It would involve machining the Handguard Mount directly into the Tikka mount. Also really would like to make a Lancer carbon fiber rail work if possible.

Any suggestions on what rails y’all would like to use on the A1?

Also, looking at making the mount out of 4140, 17-4 SS, and/or Titanium.

Just wanted to get an idea of who would be interested to see if it would be worth doing it.

Let me know your thoughts
 
Decided to try out a bigger action than .223 and picked up a T3X CTR in .308 with the 20" barrel. I don't reload and pretty much a value shooter so wanted to start off "cheap". I purchased a box of PPU 168gr HPBT Match that came out to around ~.73cents a round versus looking at other match ammo that was > 1$ a round and broke in the rifle yesterday.

Out of the box, consistently shooting < 1 MOA which I know is guaranteed but it's great that it just worked and that the gun liked the inexpensive PPU ammo. Shot 3 groups < 1 MOA @ 100 yards, best group I pulled the last shot and it ended up with a 0.9 moa, but the previous shots were all nearly touching :(

Then zeroed the rifle @ 200 yards, and had a great 0.7 MOA group. Finished the day with my last shot at the clothespin, and hitting it!

I love this rifle :)

Running Tikka T3X CTR 20" .308
Burris XTR II 3-15x
ADM Recon-SL 30mm

Broke it in using Sage & Braker .308 cleaning kit and CLP.
 
  • Like
Reactions: manki77
ArmchairOperator said:
Any suggestions on what rails y’all would like to use on the A1?
Click to expand...

I would want this rail if I were sticking with the TAC A1 chassis.
geissele.com

16" Super Modular Rail MK18 M-LOK®

The MK18 is the latest in the line of Geissele Super Modular rails and is specifically made to interface with the Arca-Swiss Quick Release System. This product is bundled with a low-profile Geissele Super Gas Block, a $59 value, and an installation wrench, making the Geissele SMR MK18 a high...
geissele.com geissele.com
 
  • Like
Reactions: D1rtyHobo
tonyXcom said:
I would want this rail if I were sticking with the TAC A1 chassis.
geissele.com

16" Super Modular Rail MK18 M-LOK®

The MK18 is the latest in the line of Geissele Super Modular rails and is specifically made to interface with the Arca-Swiss Quick Release System. This product is bundled with a low-profile Geissele Super Gas Block, a $59 value, and an installation wrench, making the Geissele SMR MK18 a high...
geissele.com geissele.com
Click to expand...
Geissele handguards are ROCK SOLID pieces of gear. I have a Mk4 13" on my AR and it's head and shoulders above anything else I've used. The fitment of the rail onto the included barrel nut, the overall heavy duty construction and machining of the rail, the fact you don't need to "time" anything for the gas tube (just torque and go).

Superb.
 
  • Like
Reactions: phlegethon
tonyXcom said:
I would want this rail if I were sticking with the TAC A1 chassis.
geissele.com

16" Super Modular Rail MK18 M-LOK®

The MK18 is the latest in the line of Geissele Super Modular rails and is specifically made to interface with the Arca-Swiss Quick Release System. This product is bundled with a low-profile Geissele Super Gas Block, a $59 value, and an installation wrench, making the Geissele SMR MK18 a high...
geissele.com geissele.com
Click to expand...

I’ll see if I can make one work.

And this leads to my next question, can any send me a blueprint of the Geissele barre nut? In particular the outside dimensions, the inside doesn’t matter as it’s threaded 1.25”-16. Knowing the outer dimensions of the nut will determine if it will work.
 
Last edited:
ArmchairOperator said:
Ok so finally got my rifle together. I was all over the place on whether I wanted a CTR or a Tac A1. I knew I wanted a chassis, and I liked the A1, but decided the CTR would give me more options. So I got the CTR, and was planning to order my scope mount and a KRG Bravo or an MDT HS3, when I came across a good deal on an A1 chassis, so I picked that up. I really like the A1 chassis, and it turns out that was what I really wanted. So ordered the other supporting parts I wanted and this is what I ended up with. Had to mill out the trigger area to clear the wide KRG trigger shoe.

Tikka T3X CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 24”
Tikka Tac A1 Chassis
KRG Midas 2 Stage Trigger
EGW 20moa Tac A1 Scope Rail
American Rifle Company X-High 1.42” 30mm Rings
Weaver Tactical 3-15x50 Scope
Dead Air Muzzle Brake
BCM MLOK 3” Picatinny Rail for Bipod
B&T Atlas PSR Bipod

Current Plans:

Get a pile of ammo
Shoot as much as possible




View attachment 7068045View attachment 7068046View attachment 7068047View attachment 7068048View attachment 7068072View attachment 7068073
Click to expand...

Lovely! I had same problems and mine is still CTR. I would love to have PSE composites and two stage trigger!
 
I won't be able to take any measurements for at least a week. But if you do decide to go the Geissele route you are going to want a rail on hand. All of the rails have Anti rotation tabs on them and you will want your 'barrel nut' plate to accommodate for them. The tops are just tabs but the lower ones have set screws in them that rest against the AR receiver to prevent rotation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ArmchairOperator
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Tikka bolt interchange t3/t3x
Replies
3
Views
573
DeathBeforeDismount
DeathBeforeDismount
Trent A
Tikka T3 & T3x lite barrel weight info - Please add!
Replies
32
Views
269
wind gypsy
W
C
Boyds or Bell & Carlson - Tikka T3 Lite
Replies
3
Views
478
Bbracken667
Bbracken667
B
Accessories mountain tactical tikka t3 short action bottom metal
Replies
1
Views
88
ballistictip1088
B
BallisticPrimate
Tikka T3 / T3x in a Manners stock
Replies
2
Views
403
CaptNemo
CaptNemo
Top Bottom
Back