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Ruger Precision Rimfire

Finally found some SK Rifle Match, so ran it and some CCI SV at 100 yards.

You can easily see the improvement with the SK, but the CCI at 1/3 of the cost isn't too shabby imo. Not to mention there is some shooter based spread there as well :).

SK Rifle Match @ 100 yards:


CCI SV @ 100 yards:
 
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This was a newly purchased lot of Wolf Match Target made by Eley tested through my 20 inch ER Shaw barrel. Rifle was benched using a Atlas bipod and pint size Gamechanger for a rear bag. Started at 50 yards with the 3 inch circle targets top to bottom ten shots each through the Magnetospeed V3, bore was scrubbed clean prior. The groups significantly tightened up through each string as the barrel seasoned. I removed the bayonet and used the top 1/2 inch dot to adjust zero and the bottom one to confirm, 5 shots each. Target change came and moved out to the 100 yard line and dialed 1.9 Mils, shooting 5 shot groups on the 4 corners and 10 shots in the center of the grid target. Average group size at 100 yards for the 4 corners was 0.815 center to center, the smallest was the top left at 0.58 and largest was 0.988 top right, surprisingly very good, it was just a little bit of breeze at 100 that day. 70 rounds total, which is all I had time for that day. I expect it to get better as the barrel gets more rounds through it. Ammo was purchased through Ammunitionstore dot com $47.99 a brick plus shipping.
 

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Good buy on the Wolf. Me and 2 of my friends shoot the RPRim using wolf at the PNTC matches and this stuff was a good price and works great. I'll shoot some groups and post next time I got to the 100 yard indoor at elite
On my friends CZ455 it had the lowest SD of the ELEY target, and SK that we side by sided it with.
 
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Just installed a new trigger, and hit the range today shooting at 100 yards. That trigger is so clean, worth every penny.

I will say it was simple installations, took less 10 minutes.
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Just installed a new trigger, and hit the range today shooting at 100 yards. That trigger is so clean, worth every penny.

I will say it was simple installations, took less 10 minutes.
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Very nice thanks for the report.

How did it affect the safety?
 
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I'm on the fence - i put one in my 6.5 but am hesitant to drop that much on a trigger for the 22. This was to be a fun rifle, if I start dropping $$ into it I would have been better off with a CZ to begin with lol.
 
Oh also, my bolt knob keeps loosening - trying to decide whether to stick with it or swap out for a nicer piece - what's everyone upgrading too these days? I've got an Anarchy Grenade on my 6.5 but really don't care for it - only reason I haven't replaced it is it's cerekoted to match the rifle :rolleyes:
 
I'm on the fence - i put one in my 6.5 but am hesitant to drop that much on a trigger for the 22. This was to be a fun rifle, if I start dropping $$ into it I would have been better off with a CZ to begin with lol.

Well, the ship has sailed. I thought about this a bit more, and decided to just move up to a CZ - so the RPRimfire is no more. Fun as heck to shoot, but just didn't want to start putting money into it.
 
Obviously I’m screwing around here...

I have put a Lilja 18inch barrel on the action, and installed the Timney trigger... what a difference.

Rifle loves the CCI Clean-22 and RWS Sub-Sonic (with the Lilja barrel).

Timney trigger makes a huge difference.
 
Oh also, my bolt knob keeps loosening - trying to decide whether to stick with it or swap out for a nicer piece - what's everyone upgrading too these days? I've got an Anarchy Grenade on my 6.5 but really don't care for it - only reason I haven't replaced it is it's cerekoted to match the rifle :rolleyes:
I have my RPRimfire set up to mimic my 6.5 RPR. Catalyst arms bolt knob and mag release button on a modified TSW extended mag release lever, MPA EVG and Timney trigger (2018 Beta version)
 

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I have my RPRimfire set up to mimic my 6.5 RPR. Catalyst arms bolt knob and mag release button on a modified TSW extended mag release lever, MPA EVG and Timney trigger (2018 Beta version)

I also replaced my knob, and used blue lock tight, and so far hasn't loosen up after thousand of rounds fired.

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Oh also, my bolt knob keeps loosening - trying to decide whether to stick with it or swap out for a nicer piece - what's everyone upgrading too these days? I've got an Anarchy Grenade on my 6.5 but really don't care for it - only reason I haven't replaced it is it's cerekoted to match the rifle :rolleyes:
I got mine off Ebay. I think it was called Pure-Precision. I used a bit of blue loctite and it has been solid.
 

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I really can't wait until someone makes a decent stock for this action... Fully extended, this is not an great stock.
 
I really can't wait until someone makes a decent stock for this action... Fully extended, this is not an great stock.


I emailed Rigid Alloy... waiting to hear back. Trying to convince them to make a replacement for the plastic part of the chassis. I am happy with the handguard but the lower chassis needs to be replaced.


Took my boys RPRr out shooting yesterday to test ammo and the first few groups were frustrating and I finally figured out it was me preloading the bipod that was causing flex in the rear of the chassis. When I let the chassis more or less free recoil then the groups looked better.


Side note: my match chamber on the groups below was getting sticky and needs to be cleaned. Had to get in there with my fingers to remove a few fired shells.

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I too wouldn't mind having an option to replace the chassis. I know it's a $400 rifle and I have been pleased so far with the results considering the base price. That being said I have noticed a difference in the POI when really loading the bipod, so I am assuming that there is some chassis flex.
 
Anyone do any 100yd. testing with the CCI standard velocity? I see a lot of guys using it in these rifles and might give it a try.
 
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I agree the stock could better, when I was looking for Precision rifle I was looking at 6.5 Creedmor but the price set me back. I saw the 17HMR on sale and bought it.
It's a great shooting very accurate at 100 yards, but don't like the mag release, grip and the trigger I replaced with Timney trigger, whole lot better, replaced the tactical knob and wish they made better stock. I guess with price, you get what you paid.
All in all, with all my updates, I'm happy camper now.
 
I'm interested in the 22 LR. They also have barrels for the the 17HMR, 17HM2 and 22 mag. All are listed at $299. I got an email awhile ago saying the 22 LR was in stock and could ship in 48 hours. I'd much rather have a Lothar Walther SS barrel for $299 than the Lilja barrel for what...$400? I just wondered if anyone has one and what they thought of it. I'm still hesitant to spend money on it. I just found the Walther drop in barrel last night.
 

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I'm interested in the 22 LR. They also have barrels for the the 17HMR, 17HM2 and 22 mag. All are listed at $299. I got an email awhile ago saying the 22 LR was in stock and could ship in 48 hours. I'd much rather have a Lothar Walther SS barrel for $299 than the Lilja barrel for what...$400? I just wondered if anyone has one and what they thought of it. I'm still hesitant to spend money on it. I just found the Walther drop in barrel last night.

Sorry can't see spending that much money for fairly inexpensive rifle, if I had CZ or Vudoo I might consider, but right now I hit what I aim at 100 yards, with barrel it has, with no issues. I only had two issues with the rifle, trigger and mag. release, trigger done, mag, looking for something I might like to install.
If I was going to spend that much money I would buy pistol or another rifle to have fun.
 
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I'm interested in the 22 LR. They also have barrels for the the 17HMR, 17HM2 and 22 mag. All are listed at $299. I got an email awhile ago saying the 22 LR was in stock and could ship in 48 hours. I'd much rather have a Lothar Walther SS barrel for $299 than the Lilja barrel for what...$400? I just wondered if anyone has one and what they thought of it. I'm still hesitant to spend money on it. I just found the Walther drop in barrel last night.


Good find!

Wonder what chamber the 22lr is.

Also I have never read about barrels made by Lothar Walther in 17hmr or 17hm2.... would love to see some teal world results from them
 
I'm interested in the 22 LR. They also have barrels for the the 17HMR, 17HM2 and 22 mag. All are listed at $299. I got an email awhile ago saying the 22 LR was in stock and could ship in 48 hours. I'd much rather have a Lothar Walther SS barrel for $299 than the Lilja barrel for what...$400? I just wondered if anyone has one and what they thought of it. I'm still hesitant to spend money on it. I just found the Walther drop in barrel last night.

At $299 for the 18 inch for the comparable ER Shaw at $250. I would be curious myself to know what spec chamber Lothar Walther are reaming and if they have increased dimensional tolerances like ER Shaw has for a better tighter fit in the receiver. I run a 20 inch 416SS ER Shaw.
 
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Just in case anyone else is having issues with first round or two acting as flyers (high, left, right, etc) I had the chance to work on my buddies rifle (and mine previously) and solved his issue.

The 15 round mags that come with the rifle fit about as well as a hotdog in a hallway. But I noticed that it's usually only the first 1-3 rounds (regardless of number of rounds loaded in mag) that have consistent flyers. That means it almost certainly has to do with orientation of the mag/feeding the first few rounds.

I did added enough foil tape to the back of the mag to add some tension when mag is fully locked in position and bingo! Flyers disappeared.

Also, I sanded/rounded the bottom of the bolt significantly so that the bolt doesn't leave marks on the round under the bolt. These two mods alone improved my friends rifle from 1.5" -2" at 100yds down to 1" or a hair over.

Hope this helps and I can post pics if anyone needs them.
 
Just in case anyone else is having issues with first round or two acting as flyers (high, left, right, etc) I had the chance to work on my buddies rifle (and mine previously) and solved his issue.

The 15 round mags that come with the rifle fit about as well as a hotdog in a hallway. But I noticed that it's usually only the first 1-3 rounds (regardless of number of rounds loaded in mag) that have consistent flyers. That means it almost certainly has to do with orientation of the mag/feeding the first few rounds.

I did added enough foil tape to the back of the mag to add some tension when mag is fully locked in position and bingo! Flyers disappeared.

Also, I sanded/rounded the bottom of the bolt significantly so that the bolt doesn't leave marks on the round under the bolt. These two mods alone improved my friends rifle from 1.5" -2" at 100yds down to 1" or a hair over.

Hope this helps and I can post pics if anyone needs them.

Couldn't really say my son was having flyers but I believe we put the tape on out of the gate. This was after watching before and after videos elfster did on utube. You couldn't argue with his.results. we never did use the 15 round mag and went straight for the 10. But with the aluminum tape bedding ours shoots similar to your buddies with CCI SV
 
Just in case anyone else is having issues with first round or two acting as flyers (high, left, right, etc) I had the chance to work on my buddies rifle (and mine previously) and solved his issue.

The 15 round mags that come with the rifle fit about as well as a hotdog in a hallway. But I noticed that it's usually only the first 1-3 rounds (regardless of number of rounds loaded in mag) that have consistent flyers. That means it almost certainly has to do with orientation of the mag/feeding the first few rounds.

I did added enough foil tape to the back of the mag to add some tension when mag is fully locked in position and bingo! Flyers disappeared.

Also, I sanded/rounded the bottom of the bolt significantly so that the bolt doesn't leave marks on the round under the bolt. These two mods alone improved my friends rifle from 1.5" -2" at 100yds down to 1" or a hair over.

Hope this helps and I can post pics if anyone needs them.
 
I would like to see the pics you have. Both of the foil on the mag and the bolt before and after sanding.
What is the thinking as to how the stock mag orients itself after 1-3 rounds?
 
I would like to see the pics you have. Both of the foil on the mag and the bolt before and after sanding.
What is the thinking as to how the stock mag orients itself after 1-3 rounds?
Exactly. I think the mag sits differently after running bolt a few times and it affects how the bullets get "marked/damaged" while being chambered. It seems they correct themselves and become consistent after 1st or 2nd shot.

I know I can get pics of the mag before/after, but I didn't take any before pics of the bolt, just after. But you should be able to compare the photo to your bolt and see an obvious difference.
 
Thanks I'd appreciate anything you can show.
Have you ever heard anything regarding a JARD trigger for the Precision Rimfire?
 
Thanks for the input. I was looking for any input from someone who had used a JARD trigger on a RPR. I'm just hesitant when its advertised for both center fire and rim fire.
 
I would like to see the pics you have. Both of the foil on the mag and the bolt before and after sanding.
What is the thinking as to how the stock mag orients itself after 1-3 rounds?

Pictures of mods to bolt and magazine. Bolt nose is rounded and tapered back. It's hard to see, but I've put a slight taper in the bolt for the first 1.5" or so. Also sanded/polished all edges to smooth bolt stroke and feeding.

I could definitely go further with this and I think it would improve it further, but you need to be sure it catches the next round solidly. Remove too much (like an 1/8") and you will have a single shot 22lr. So go slow.


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Magazine: I added strips of electrical tape as initial build up material and then several layers of foil tape over top to get to final thickness. It should go in snugly/firmly and stay that way regardless of pressure front/back on bottom of mag.

Goal is to keep the mag at the same height (all way to the top) and have nearly zero pivot for and aft. If you wiggle magle front to back, you will see the front edge near chamber move up/down which is what you are trying to prevent.

Tape wears in after a few removals so once you get close add a layer or two as it confirms to your rifle.

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If you're looking for and Extended Magazine Release for your Ruger Precision Rimfire, try one of these;

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I've had one for a couple of months and it works great. Installation is a snap.

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I got mine at my LGS. They're also available at Anarchy Outdoors

Tom
 
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I am honestly starting to get a frustrated with my RPr. I have checked all of the screws, done the tape bedding job, cleaned up the trigger, shot with and without loading the bipod, and I consistently get weird random fliers. I can hold the rifle and drill the target right where I am aiming on one shot, the next shot will be a flyer but the scope doesn't move at all, next shot is back where I am aiming. I figured maybe it was me so I shot my 223 and get a sub half-moa group. Other than replacing the barrel or eventually the stock, can anyone think of what I should check next? I have tried Lapua, a couple of CCIs, and Eley for ammo. I am guessing that mine was part of the second batch and I have about 1-2k rounds down the barrel.

Its frustrating bc I can see the potential of the rifle but cant seem to find what the issue is that is causing the fliers.
 
I was really hoping after buying a Rpr in 243 they would’ve came out with a 22lr in the same frame and bolt design.
Solid,heavy precision rifle
 
I was really hoping after buying a Rpr in 243 they would’ve came out with a 22lr in the same frame and bolt design.
Solid,heavy precision rifle


If they would have done that and had it feed from normal sized mags like the V22, they would have slayed the market even at 1,000.00 per rifle.

Charge the same amount as a RPR in 308 but have the action and barrel for .22lr. Like the old Remington 40x in 22lr
 
I am honestly starting to get a frustrated with my RPr. I have checked all of the screws, done the tape bedding job, cleaned up the trigger, shot with and without loading the bipod, and I consistently get weird random fliers. I can hold the rifle and drill the target right where I am aiming on one shot, the next shot will be a flyer but the scope doesn't move at all, next shot is back where I am aiming. I figured maybe it was me so I shot my 223 and get a sub half-moa group. Other than replacing the barrel or eventually the stock, can anyone think of what I should check next? I have tried Lapua, a couple of CCIs, and Eley for ammo. I am guessing that mine was part of the second batch and I have about 1-2k rounds down the barrel.

Its frustrating bc I can see the potential of the rifle but cant seem to find what the issue is that is causing the fliers.

A couple of things I would check. Examine the bottom of the bolt, the part that rides over the top of the magazine for burrs/sharp edges that can scrape the bullet during feeding. A slight radius and polish will help.

I use 10 22 magazines, and reduce the spring pressure so as to not allow the shell to be forced up into the breech face, again to eliminate bullet deformation. An alternative is to use aluminum tape to snug up the 15 round magazine to get smooth feeding. Either way, I fully load the mags and operate the bolt with loaded ammo, chamber and extract loaded cartridges, and look for deformed/scraped bullets. Adjust/polish as necessary until the loaded cartridges come out undamaged.

Another thing that can be tried is varying the action screw torque. My rifle really shines at 40 in/lbs both front and rear screws.

Maybe I just got a "good" one, but mine has shot numerous 100 yd groups between 5/8" and 3/4" with CCI SV. I have shot 4 different lots of this ammo and it has all been good. Current lot ( I have a case of this lot ) shoots right around 5/8" at 100 yds, chronographs with ES of 17 fps, and 50 yd groups average right around .260".

I cleaned the barrel when new, before firing, with Remington 40X bore cleaner (the old Gold Medallion) as I have all my firearms since it came out in the mid/late 80's. I have shot over 1,500 rounds of varying manufacturers including RWS, PMC, Eley, Win, Rem, Wolf, Lapua, and CCi of bulk and match grade, SV and HV since new. I have not cleaned the barrel since, and won't until accuracy drops off, if it ever does.

I have personal knowledge of 2 other RPR RF rifles and they also shoot very well. One is current as is mine, the other is one from the first run and also likes CCI SV. I'm shooting a 6-24X scope, the others both have 4-16X scopes, and higher magnifications do help with group sizes and being able to read conditions.

Reading conditions with a 22LR is critical at distance, as well as shooting technique ( stock pressure, cheek pressure, etc ).

I actually get better groups shooting off the bench using the bipod up front and a rear bag rather than bags front and rear.

Hoping some of these tips will bring your RPR RF around.
 
I am honestly starting to get a frustrated with my RPr. I have checked all of the screws, done the tape bedding job, cleaned up the trigger, shot with and without loading the bipod, and I consistently get weird random fliers. I can hold the rifle and drill the target right where I am aiming on one shot, the next shot will be a flyer but the scope doesn't move at all, next shot is back where I am aiming. I figured maybe it was me so I shot my 223 and get a sub half-moa group. Other than replacing the barrel or eventually the stock, can anyone think of what I should check next? I have tried Lapua, a couple of CCIs, and Eley for ammo. I am guessing that mine was part of the second batch and I have about 1-2k rounds down the barrel.

Its frustrating bc I can see the potential of the rifle but cant seem to find what the issue is that is causing the fliers.
@vaguru hit the nail on head:
  1. Add foil tape or even duct tape to mags to ensure they are firmly planted in receiver (no for/aft wobble or play). The first round or two will feed at different angle than the rest causing change in bullet shape/damage to driving band.
  2. Use 320 or 400grit sand paper to polish and smooth the bottom side of bolt (specifically, the ridge that picks up next round). This is typically very sharp edges and will damage the bullet that is on deck in the magazine as bolt closes, scoring the round. Easy to check: put in full mag, chamber round, eject round unfired and leave bolt open. Drop magazine and look at the bullet in magazine. If it looks like pic below, polish the bolt more.
  3. If all of that fails, either contact Ruger or buy an ER SHAW barrel ($250). The Shaw's run well (sample of one in my case but others have posted similar results).

Photos of Unmodified magazine/bolt:

New round (not chambered):
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Damage on first round chambered.
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Unmodified bolt bottom: Damage on round under the bolt.
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After bolt smoothing (I still have a bit more to do but it was good enough at the time) and magazine tape modification:
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Section of the bolt that needs smoothing front edge back to the hole behind the retaining clip (or further if you want. )
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I would try a study load one shell at a time buy hand no mag and see if there's a difference in group/flyer
Definitely would help identify if mag/bolt are issue but also have to be very consistent in how they are placed into chamber. I.e. slide in by hand completely (best way) vs setting nose partially in chamber then finished by bolt close (not so good).