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KRG Bravo Chassis

So I order a KRG Bravo in FDE a few weeks back. Had read that a guy on here was making a brass insert weight for the forearm that was actually pretty cool and priced reasonably for the work involved....

We sure like to see guys getting these and really tweaking them and making it their own. We can only go so far in getting it to the perfect stock for each individual. The better it is for you the more likely you'll be to go out and shoot and have a good time with it. Thank you for your business,
Justin
 
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Ordered a black stock today for a Howa, can't wait to try it out. Think I'll attempt to make some weights for the forend and but stock as above.
 
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We sure like to see guys getting these and really tweaking them and making it their own. We can only go so far in getting it to the perfect stock for each individual. The better it is for you the more likely you'll be to go out and shoot and have a good time with it. Thank you for your business,
Justin


For the price their awesome! And if I didn't have the capability to make those parts I would of just bought them from you like a lot of people do. I'm also a lefty so I'll have to modify it for that, when that's done I'll post some more pics. Also when I finish it I'll report back on the total weight and how it balances out.
 
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Are there any issues with certain magazines and the Howa inlet stock? I see on some chassis system you have to modify you magazines.
 
So I feel like I've done a pretty fair "recoil" test with my Bravo and it has passed with flying colors. I recently put a 7mm SAUM barrel on my nuke and was pushing a 180 grain ELD at over 3000 fps. The recoil with the Bravo was very nice. I feel like I never got to feel the butt pad with the 6mm creed barrel installed. The 7mm SAUM moves the rifle just a tad bit more than the 6 creed.
 
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Howa 1500 in .243. Stock garbage twist barrel chopped down to 18.5" to run a form1 7" OAL suppressor that I just finished building. Glass is a 4x16 Athlon Midas Tac. I call her, "The Coyote Hammer".
 

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How does a 3 rd cip mag fit in a bravo as far as hanging down? Should I just grab a 5rd and not bother with the 3 for hunting?
 
How does a 3 rd cip mag fit in a bravo as far as hanging down? Should I just grab a 5rd and not bother with the 3 for hunting?

If you can hunt with a 5 I would get a 5. If not get a 10 or 5 and block it down to 3 with a limiter.

My AR based hunting rifle uses 20rd PMAG blocked down to 5rd and its awesome. Easy to grab with gloves in the winter and its function is flawless.
 
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Thinking about picking up the Ambi Sling Mount. Who’s using it and what sling are you running to pack your 10-15# rifle around.

I’ll try to get some pics of my rig up later.

Ok, so I picked up the Ambi Sling Mount. Running a Blue Force Gear padded VCAS is very comfortable walking around.

MDT polymer mags (.223) are doing great as well.

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Is the new arca forend the same length as the regular bravo forend? Sure would be nice to have some more real estate over the standard forend. The bravo forend seems a little short a 9ish inches compared to most other stocks/chassis.
 
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@Massoud
If you could add like 5-6" on the arca forend, it would be the cat's azz

I think the issue is going to be rigidity if you extend it too far. It's one of the reasons I like the enclosed foreend; it's longer and more rigid (plus uses a longer ARCA rail). I'm waiting to see if they offer an enclosed foreend with the ARCA/RRS rail milled directly into the foreend. To me, that would be the best solution (IMHO); it's just one less thing to come/work loose.
 
@Massoud
If you could add like 5-6" on the arca forend, it would be the cat's azz

If it’s unsupported it will flex and could cause issues.

I fukin love keystone
I remember when they first released keystone.

Me and my friends bought something like 15-20 cases at Foss drug in Golden Colorado and went elk hunting.

Holy crap we’re we hammered!
Days like those are why I don’t drink anymore.
 
I think the issue is going to be rigidity if you extend it too far. It's one of the reasons I like the enclosed foreend; it's longer and more rigid (plus uses a longer ARCA rail). I'm waiting to see if they offer an enclosed foreend with the ARCA/RRS rail milled directly into the foreend. To me, that would be the best solution (IMHO); it's just one less thing to come/work loose.

Just out of curiosity, why would it be any less stable then the enclosed forend?
 
Just out of curiosity, why would it be any less stable then the enclosed forend?

The taller a beam is, the less it bends under the same load. (There’s a bit more to it than that - look at “beam deflection” and “second moment of area” if you’re interested in learning more.)
 
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The taller a beam is, the less it bends under the same load. (There’s a bit more to it than that - look at “beam deflection” and “second moment of area” if you’re interested in learning more.)
tenor-2.gif
 
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@BG94591
Good looking rig! Double check that the receiver has dropped into the lug in the chassis; can be tricky to feel, sometimes. Could be the angle of the photo, but from the lines, and how the barrel looks at the front of the chassis, the lug may not be seated in the lug cutout of the receiver.
 
@BG94591
Good looking rig! Double check that the receiver has dropped into the lug in the chassis; can be tricky to feel, sometimes. Could be the angle of the photo, but from the lines, and how the barrel looks at the front of the chassis, the lug may not be seated in the lug cutout of the receiver.
Its not just you. It looks like its not flush and therefore pointing upwards pretty severely.
 
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@BG94591
Good looking rig! Double check that the receiver has dropped into the lug in the chassis; can be tricky to feel, sometimes. Could be the angle of the photo, but from the lines, and how the barrel looks at the front of the chassis, the lug may not be seated in the lug cutout of the receiver.

Good eye. I missed it.

His recoil lug is on top of instead of inside of the recoil lug pocket. Ask me how I know. ?

I have to remind myself to follow KRG's instructions and slightly tamp the rifle of the buttstock before tightening down the action screws.
 
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Good eye. I missed it.

His recoil lug is on top of instead of inside of the recoil lug pocket. Ask me how I know. ?

I have to remind myself to follow KRG's instructions and slightly tamp the rifle of the buttstock before tightening down the action screws.
@BG94591
Good looking rig! Double check that the receiver has dropped into the lug in the chassis; can be tricky to feel, sometimes. Could be the angle of the photo, but from the lines, and how the barrel looks at the front of the chassis, the lug may not be seated in the lug cutout of the receiver.

Damn y’all, I’ll have to check that out. Thanks for the heads up.
 
@BG94591
Good looking rig! Double check that the receiver has dropped into the lug in the chassis; can be tricky to feel, sometimes. Could be the angle of the photo, but from the lines, and how the barrel looks at the front of the chassis, the lug may not be seated in the lug cutout of the receiver.

Shit fella’s y’all were right. Thank you again. Would have looked awful stupid at the range, I had planned to go today too.
 
Has anyone been able to use the KRG Arca Forend (Alluminum) that only fits Rem 700 inlets now, on a Tikka T3x or modified it to fit?
 
I've been wanting a dedicated thumb rest position on my Bravo. I find myself searching for a comfortable solid thumb position often.

Has anyone tried thermoforming the Bravo polymer? I'm thinking a shallow dimple located at 4-5 o'clock off the rear tang.
 
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well if you have a Rem 700 SA you are in luck.

I emailed KRG and they said it cannot be modded to fit my Bravo that is for a Tikka so I am out of luck

You can do it if you have a milling machine, you just cut the magwell out toward the front as the mag sits further forward in a T3. It's not something you'll want to do with a dremel as there's a lot of material removal.

Justin
 
I've been wanting a dedicated thumb rest position on my Bravo. I find myself searching for a comfortable solid thumb position often.

Has anyone tried thermoforming the Bravo polymer? I'm thinking a shallow dimple located at 4-5 o'clock off the rear tang.

Yea I wish they had thrown the same thumb shelf as the W3 series, on the Bravo as well.
 
You can do it if you have a milling machine, you just cut the magwell out toward the front as the mag sits further forward in a T3. It's not something you'll want to do with a dremel as there's a lot of material removal.

Justin

I do have access to a milling machine and that is why I asked the question by email but got this reply:

"
Hi Bruce,

Sorry, I don’t believe the ARCA forend can be successfully modded to work with a Tikka. "

so I ordered just the plain rail along with the spigot to put on my Bravo, wish I had known. thanks for the reply
 
I've been wanting a dedicated thumb rest position on my Bravo. I find myself searching for a comfortable solid thumb position often.

Has anyone tried thermoforming the Bravo polymer? I'm thinking a shallow dimple located at 4-5 o'clock off the rear tang.

Maybe something like Sugru will work?
 
Maybe something like Sugru will work?
Thanks for the lead, I'd never heard of it. Definitely looks worth experimentation...… for multiple usage/applications.
Just ordered a 4 pack of black. (y)
 
You can do it if you have a milling machine, you just cut the magwell out toward the front as the mag sits further forward in a T3. It's not something you'll want to do with a dremel as there's a lot of material removal.

Justin
Massoud, would a PROOF Research 6.5 Creedmoor Competition Steel Barrel fit the Bravo Remington 700 SA Chassis? Dimensions are on the image below.
1566023360000.png
 
@SonicBurlap that barrel will clear. In fact the Bravo's (and W-3 and X-ray) are starting to come with a slightly revised backbone that has the barrel channel cut the same as the bedding area. Basically a full 1.25" straight cylinder will clear, these are the ones that come with the 10x threaded mounting holes at the front of the backbone for our new NV mount. Thank you,
Justin
 
@SonicBurlap that barrel will clear. In fact the Bravo's (and W-3 and X-ray) are starting to come with a slightly revised backbone that has the barrel channel cut the same as the bedding area. Basically a full 1.25" straight cylinder will clear, these are the ones that come with the 10x threaded mounting holes at the front of the backbone for our new NV mount. Thank you,
Justin
Thanks, I appreciate the prompt answer, my Bighorn TL3 will be sporting a KRG Bravo.
 
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@SonicBurlap that barrel will clear. In fact the Bravo's (and W-3 and X-ray) are starting to come with a slightly revised backbone that has the barrel channel cut the same as the bedding area. Basically a full 1.25" straight cylinder will clear, these are the ones that come with the 10x threaded mounting holes at the front of the backbone for our new NV mount. Thank you,
Justin
Sorry, but I have one more question since in the detailed description on your web site there is mention about the balance beside the fit issue, do you believe the balance will be o. k. then with a competition barrel? Also if I order directly from KRG should I call to make sure I get one with the mounting holes for the NV mount?
 
Sorry, but I have one more question since in the detailed description on your web site there is mention about the balance beside the fit issue, do you believe the balance will be o. k. then with a competition barrel? Also if I order directly from KRG should I call to make sure I get one with the mounting holes for the NV mount?

It’ll probably be definitely front heavy based on what I’ve seen of other people comp rifles. You’ll want to add rear weight possibly with the weighted spacer kit they have.
 
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Might have to consider that but usually my rigs aren't fly weights to begin with, with the pic rail on the buttstock and the Accushot monopod on a leveraged rail mounted to it, which I use instead of a squeeze bag, plus the Razor HD and the ACI add a bit as well. That said the weights might be needed to offset the Atlas on the spigot mount rail.
 
I finished up my Bravo cerakote last week - very happy with the outcome. 4 color “Topoflage” camo.

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This build is a budget .223AI, KRG Bravo, Ultimatum U300, IBI Rem Varmint 1-7 15”, Triggertech Special trigger, Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24 in PMR rings. Should be a fun little plinker. Barrel isn’t chambered yet - but you get the idea.

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Absolutely love this paint. Nice job.
 
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Was looking at getting a Bravo for my Howa 1500, it seems there's no sako green option for it, is this something that's being planned @Massoud Thanks!