Thanks for the reply! Glad I don't have an excuse to wait...
- Thread starter southerngolfer
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Thanks for the reply! Glad I don't have an excuse to wait...
Sweeeeeet setup @Covertnoob5!
Thanks! I swapped the rear end on my w3 to a bravo rear to save a little weight for hunting. Suppose I could swap the enclosed forend back to the regular to save about another pound.
@Covertnoob5 Man, I don't know...looks pretty sick just the way it is...if you're not a weight savings fiend, I'd leave it!
I'm definitely not, this is probably the second lightest rifle I've ever hunted with haha usually I'm around 15-16 but I did hunt with my 19lb axmc a couple times.
Holy $***! 19lbs? Your a friggin' beast! I don't mind carrying weight, especially if it makes me shoot better...but I'd like to keep them around 11-12lbs if I can!
You aren't hunting with a 19lb. rifle here. Idaho doesn't have many firearm regulations, but fish and game is very serious about their 16lb. weight limit for rifles when hunting.
Yea not my brightest idea by any means lol but I did do a write up on my setup for carrying a heavy rifle. And it taught me a good bit about my setup as well.
Has anybody mounted an arca rail onto the Mlok under for forend? I know KRG has ones with all sorts of holes corresponding to the screws/threads in the aluminum but I was curious if using just the Mlok would do? Or would using a longer screw that extends through the Mlok and into the hole in the aluminum work better? This would be just a small 3.5" - 4" arca rail for tripod use.
Please excuse my ignorance, but I'm trying to install the picatinny rail piece on the forehand up my krg bravo chassis. How do I get to little flat nuts inside that slot in the handguard to put the bolts through?
Yes it comes with a small piece of picatinny rail
Take your barreled action out. It's much easier that way
Yeah I was afraid of that. Trying to figure out a way to not have to do all that, thanks
Just remove the screws underneath that hold the plastic for-end to the alu backbone, slide the fore-end off and then add the rail and return the whole thing to the backbone.
Why? It is a chassis. That is one of the benefits. Take it out, do what you need to, retorque it, and everything is the same as before you removed it.
It is kind of a pain in the ass to install the picatinny etc on a bravo because the screws come with blue loctite on them which prevents them from simply spinning with only pressure to keep the backing nut in place. I have to jam something in there for counter rotation pressure to get them to actually tighten instead of spin freely.
And it doesnt help that the forend screws are actually under the picaitnny rail so I have to start installing the forend to get the screws just started, half install the picaitnny rail so that I can actually get it attached but still loose enough to rock so I can access the still loose forend screws under it, tighten down the forened screws and then finally tighten the picatinny rail up.
And I dont have an extended bit so taking the action out doesnt help as I need to have the action installed before I install the forend so that I can access the action screws.
Its actually a pain in the ass but worth it because once assembled its great.
And it doesnt help that the forend screws are actually under the picaitnny rail so I have to start installing the forend to get the screws just started, half install the picaitnny rail so that I can actually get it attached but still loose enough to rock so I can access the still loose forend screws under it, tighten down the forened screws and then finally tighten the picatinny rail up.
And I dont have an extended bit so taking the action out doesnt help as I need to have the action installed before I install the forend so that I can access the action screws.
Its actually a pain in the ass but worth it because once assembled its great.
Hi guys, here's a couple ways to get the rail installed:
1- With the chassis completely assembled you can slide the nuts in if you are good, or if you tape the nut to a flat blade screw driver and insert it through the spigot hole
2- Remove forend, install rail onto forend, install forend leaving out very front forend screws
3- Remove forend, tape/epoxy flat nuts into place, install forend, then install rail
@Jackomason We don't recommend an MLok mounted bipod because there is so little surface contact with the MLok mounting system. I think with an Arca to MLok you might be better off but that is still iffy I think. I would suggest to try to run screws into the aluminum backbone if possible, or at least into the wider spaced mount holes on the forend (you put the included hex nuts into pockets inside the forend). If you can't do those, try the MLok way and see what happens and let us know.
Thanks fellas,
Justin
1- With the chassis completely assembled you can slide the nuts in if you are good, or if you tape the nut to a flat blade screw driver and insert it through the spigot hole
2- Remove forend, install rail onto forend, install forend leaving out very front forend screws
3- Remove forend, tape/epoxy flat nuts into place, install forend, then install rail
@Jackomason We don't recommend an MLok mounted bipod because there is so little surface contact with the MLok mounting system. I think with an Arca to MLok you might be better off but that is still iffy I think. I would suggest to try to run screws into the aluminum backbone if possible, or at least into the wider spaced mount holes on the forend (you put the included hex nuts into pockets inside the forend). If you can't do those, try the MLok way and see what happens and let us know.
Thanks fellas,
Justin
Put an MPA spigot on my bravo today. Had to open up one hole and drill another (used a 13/64" bit in my drill press) and bolted it down to the spigot from the top of the backbone. The screw that sits in the pocket, i reduced the outer diameter of the head with a dremel until it fit down inside the pocket so itd be out of the barrel channel. Super easy.
To be sure it was centered up, just ran the front screws that hold the handgaurd in to the backbone.
To be sure it was centered up, just ran the front screws that hold the handgaurd in to the backbone.
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Thanks for input...I took for end off...was pretty simple
What kind of pad is that on your
what kind of pad is that on your cheek riser
Wiebad
ARC mags work ok in the bravo?
Barrel channel?
Barrel channel?
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Yup! I run ARC, Accurate and AW mags in my Bravo
Maybe I missed it here, but has anyone used the KRG Bravo Rem 700 LA for a 300PRC build? Wondering how the feed/function is with the CIP length mags. Seems like all my other alternatives (Manners, McM, etc) with M5 bottom metal would require that the action itself undergo some minor modification, which I'm hoping to avoid.
As a side note, I'm not seeing the modified mag release or the full 'hook' insert on KRGs site. Am I missing something? Is the Bravo now coming with the full insert and modified mag release?
As a side note, I'm not seeing the modified mag release or the full 'hook' insert on KRGs site. Am I missing something? Is the Bravo now coming with the full insert and modified mag release?
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From KRG's description:
"***Remington 700 long action chassis come with the full Whiskey-3 forend and take 3.850" (CIP) length AICS pattern magazines or 3.715" AICS mags with included spacer."
Oops sorry, not sure how it feeds. I've also got a 300 PRC in the works, but using a Whiskey 3 Chassis. Mags fit really nice and tight. But without the action, i dunno how feeding is... I'm assuming it should be fine.
My Bravo with a Howa 6.5 Creedmoor barreled action.
I am very happy with this stock.
I am very happy with this stock.
What did you use to get that paint texture? Looks great.
Looks like rattle can with a natural sponge. I've done some like that in the past but usually with three, or four colors, from lightest to darkest and then finished with a few coats of clear matte.
The Bravo being such a light chassis, gets really front heavy with a heavy pipe hanging off the action.
My wife's rifle with a Bravo has a 24" heavy Palma barrel, and it was pretty front heavy. Changed out the stock plastic LOP spacers for two of KRG's weighted metal LOP spacers and balance is damn near perfect.
I would hesitate to go much heavier on the barrel than a 24" heavy Palma or m24 for balance purposes.
Looked at several Bravos in the meantime and came close to the same conclusion. However, I will be going with a 26" M24 barrel, especially since Justin from KRG confirmed that they are working on getting the heavy spacers and front end weights back in stock, they were just overwhelmed by the popularity and demand. Should they not be in stock by the time I'll need them I can always temporarily go with some of the heavy filler material beads I've got for bags. This one will not be a light hunting rig but more for the range and private competitions. Also besides the LOP and front end weights, their heavy barricade stop is another option for achieving balance.
Sea sponge. I spray paint into a paper plate, dab the sponge in the paint and just go to town. I am a fan of manners paint schemes so I’ve loosely based it on that
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I mixed up some Devcon and placed a bunch of lead decoy weights into the rear of the stock. Added close to 3lbs and definitely balances better. Esp with a 26” heavy palma and a can.
Just finished up this one for a close buddy of mine, Blue Titanium -> Polar Blue fade with a Tungsten top coat.
It’s pretty badass.
very nice ^^
You got the Steel Panther cranked up to 11 on the shop stereo for inspiration?
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What mags are you guys running with the bravo and howas? I've heard rumors of the metal AICS pattern mags requiring some modifications for howas. Polymer mags apparently work fine. Any issues either way? I'm looking at accurate mags without the binder plate, specifically.
No issues with an AccurateMag in my Howa.
When wait times on barrels are just a little too long....
The new mini stock pad is up for order at Wiebad! This is what they told me -
"The new KRG Bravo stock pad is available I have a few of the old style left in black and coyote. You could let anyone know that they can get the new version by requesting it in the order comments."
So make sure you ask for the new one in the comments so you don't get the old one.
Thanks for the info, and for contacting them so they could improve their product to the benefit of us all. Kudos!
Hey guys,
I have a Bravo incoming soon.
Could you tell me which sort of paint might work best on the stock´s plastic?
I mean, are there some sort of paints that would harm or weaken the plastic, and which paint holds best on to the stock?
I would appreciate any info.
I have a Bravo incoming soon.
Could you tell me which sort of paint might work best on the stock´s plastic?
I mean, are there some sort of paints that would harm or weaken the plastic, and which paint holds best on to the stock?
I would appreciate any info.
For those that have installed the bipod spigot - Did you notice improvement in stability?
I'm getting a lot more wobble in all positions and I'm wondering if it's that the bipod is too far back in stock configuration with a heavy 26" barrel (and a can).
I'm getting a lot more wobble in all positions and I'm wondering if it's that the bipod is too far back in stock configuration with a heavy 26" barrel (and a can).
Well that's not the craziest theory I've heard. I will say that my spigot is very solid & I'm happy with it.
When you say 'a lot more wobble', what do you mean? A lot more than what? I've not fired my rifle with the bipod anywhere other than on the spigot, but I've got Arca everywhere so I could check it out for ya.
I will say that our rigs are somewhat different... I only have to stabilize a 20" Proof CF barrel.
When you say 'a lot more wobble', what do you mean? A lot more than what? I've not fired my rifle with the bipod anywhere other than on the spigot, but I've got Arca everywhere so I could check it out for ya.
I will say that our rigs are somewhat different... I only have to stabilize a 20" Proof CF barrel.
