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CZ 457

Can you imagine how much trouble a gas key coming loose would cause? I've put together a lot of AR15/10s over the years, and have seen only one gas key come loose - due to improperly staked key screws.

I have no problem with your use of fingernail polish on the 457 trigger pin - as long as it doesn't flake off over time, why not use it? There may be a Loc-tite product that's perhaps better for the application, but I don't know which one would be correct. I'd be concerned with a wicking compound like #290 weeping on into the trigger & locking it up on the pin. I used Loc-tite #609 to glue the two Shilen bbls into my 457 American & MTR, and haven't had any issues so far - did the American bbl job May 1 and the MTR on the 19th, so it's been around five months for both. Have to admit though, that I shoot my V-22s a whole lot more often than I have the two CZs, but after reading that Walther has been using a similar adhesive to glue bbls into receivers of some of their target rifles, I'm not worried about the longevity of #609. The problem I see with staking the trigger pin would be if it's over-done slightly, and someone tries to drive it out, it may do irreparable damage to the trigger housing. OTOH, I see little or no downside to the use of fingernail polish....

Hi Dennis,
When I emailed Dave, I told him that I did not use Loc-tite because of the wicking concern. As for the trigger pins, it only takes the smallest upset to retain the trigger pins and noting like the gas key needs. I did want to give Dave an alternative to the fingernail polish or E-clips. Something tried and tested. I really enjoy my MTR. It shoots on par with my V-22. I like the CZ so much that I just bought a Royal on Friday with the longer bbl. When I spoke with Dave, he told me that the springs he sells were custom made for size and spring rate. I will however look for a cheap replacement out of idle curiosity. When I originally changed out my spring, I wrote up a post about the perils of the task. While driving the pin out I bent a brass punch and was starting to bend a steel punch. The trigger pin in my gun was a heavy press fit. So as to not damage anything putting it back together, I chucked up the pin in my drill and reduced the diameter a couple thousandths with some 220 wet/dry. Just to a slip fit. Maybe over the years I have lost sight of how these seemingly simple things may not be so simple for others. It is difficult to know how has good ideas that work and how is just talking. That is one reason that I like to support my claim with some kind of rational, IE: staking the gas key. I like to give people the confidents to use an idea and not just follow it blindly.

chat soon
Shawn
 
452BFEF9-DD85-4DEA-8A93-99B5573C8408.jpeg
Cz 457 Lilja barrel
20 rds SK Rifle Match
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just got mine yesterday 8 months and the sun was shinning yesterday picked up the 457 varmint mtr still need everything rail , bipod scope but i got the gun thank god .:giggle:
 
just got mine yesterday 8 months and the sun was shinning yesterday picked up the 457 varmint mtr still need everything rail , bipod scope but i got the gun thank god .:giggle:
What did you shoot those groups with? they look very nice! If you mean that you need everything for your MTR.... I would recommend the AREA 419 rail and as a must have item, the 419 bolt knob. The knob totally changes the feel of the gun. I used 222 (Purple) loc-tite and only screw the knob on until it covered the threads. At first it looked funky to me and I had strong doubts about the knob but it feels and functions
great. It feels like it is exactly what should be there. Lefty 222 took the time to make this drawing of the 457 trigger. He later came back and corrected item number 49 as being backwards. "In" is less engagement. I like my MTR so much that I just bought a 457 Royal on Friday and have ordered another 419 rail and knob for it.
Enough has been said about the Yo Dave spring kit, but I also have another one of those on order too. It brought my MTR trigger down to 9 oz. and is perfectly safe. Except for my trigger, the MTR is stock and shoots on par with my VuDoo.
Again great shooting.....
Shawn Carroll
 

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I went with a BScar 25 MOA rail on both 457s - American & MTR. It's about half the height/thickness of the Area 419 rail, which worked out well when it comes to not needing any sort of stock pack or riser to get a good cheek weld on both rifles. It also cost just $35, including shipping.

I was going to order the Area 419 bolt knob for my MTR, but they were out of stock, so I went to work to turn one very similar on my lathe. I agree with Shawn that it makes a very impressive difference in the ease of operating the 457's bolt. I feel this big knob looks fine on the MTR, but I wanted something a little smaller in profile that wouldn't look so out of place on the American sporter, yet enough longer to give the extra leverage that makes opening the bolt on these rifles quite a bit easier. The attached photo shows the knob on the American, and also shows how low the BScar 25 MOA rail is. I put an Athlon Midas TAC 6-24x50 scope in TPS TSR low rings on this rifle, and as you can see, the low rings give adequate clearance to allow the scope's power ring to clear the top of the rail, yet keeps the scope low enough to result in a very comfortable head position (at least for me).
 

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Dennis, Thanks for the info on the BScar rail. Who knows, I may need a lower rail for my new Royal.
I have my Cronus on my MTR today but it is going onto the Royal. I have a Trijicon 5-50x56 on my
Vudoo and like it so much that I'm going to get another for the MTR. That is a good looking American you have.

Shawn
 
How does the Varmint compare to the MTR in terms of precision? Does the MTR group much better? If I'm building a precision rifle rig, would the MTR suffice and just throw it into a new chassis, or would I be better served getting a cheap VZ 457, and getting an aftermarket barrel? You mention your MTR shooting on par with your V22. I'd like something that would shoot on par with a V22 and not cost $1750 :)
 
To start, I really love my V22. It has a lot of things to like about her besides just accuracy. As far as my V22 cost, the action was 1750.00 and the MDT chassis, rear stock, weights was another 1600.00. Then I bought 20 mags. (660.00) So my cost has ballooned up to over 4000.00. My CZ 457 MTR plus rail and bolt was 850.00 plus six mags for her (210.00). I feed them both SK rifle match (red box) and they both love it. My CZ is stock except for a trigger spring kit and bolt knob and I see no need to replace the bbl. and I have never looked for a chassis. All that said, I guess it just depends on how much money you have for toy's. I can say that I like my MTR better than my two Annie's but not because of an accuracy issue. I feel the MTR is a great buy. I have run my Trijicon 5-50x56 (1800.00) on both guns and they shoot the same for me.
 

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I finally got out to the range and shot a few groups with my CZ. I will be the first to admit I’m not a group shooter and I’m sure the rifle can actually do better. These are shot with the old Wolf Match Target that was made by lapua. I’m guessing it’s about the same as the SK+. The group with my thumb by it was my cold bore shot. The bottom left group the wind picked up making it string from left to right. Everything else looks pretty decent though for a bone stock rifle.

BTW these are all 5 shot groups at 50 yards.

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About the same. I’m sure they will both shoot better than me. I’m just not a group shooter. I may have spent 15 seconds shooting each of those groups so it’s not like I was being particularly precise with my shooting. The entire 6x5 was shot in probably 1 1/2 minutes with mag changes. I just don’t have the patience to set and shoot groups.
 
They look damn good to me..... I too hate shooting paper, it is just a necessary evil to me. What kind of CZ was that? If my new Royal with the 20.5" bbl. shoots that well, I will be happy as can be. As it is, I love my MTR.
Dave, what does your T1X look like? Is it stock?
 
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Good looking guns..... and tools as well. Before I became ill, I had some Lie-Nielsen hand tools. I lapped off the irons just the way I do my trigger sears so they were razor sharp and a joy to use. They were expensive but I was able to sell them on e-bay for what I bought them for. Buy quality and you won't have regrets.
How would you compare the Tikka trigger to the CZ?
 

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I have quite a few Lie Nielsen tools too. Mine don’t look quite a pretty as yours though. Mine have had almost daily use for 10 years so there is a little wear on mine.

I honestly can’t really tell a difference in the triggers. Maybe if I close my eyes and really concentrate I would be able to feel the difference but it would be hard. I have both triggers set to break right at 1 1/2 lbs and they are both great.
 
Was thinking about doing my first NRL22 type match next weekend and I just got a new scope, so I went to the range today to get things dialed in. Only have access to 100yards so I also brought the Chrono with me to see if I might be able to get enough data to get close at distances up to 300.

I have the MTR which is all factory except for a bedded stock and the factory barrel that I had threaded. I almost always shoot it suppressed. The gun tends to like the SK Rifle Match the best and I also tried out some SK Long Range ammo as well.

After getting sighted in at 50, the Rifle Match seemed to be just as accurate as the Long Range at 100 yards. The Long Range was a little faster than the Rifle Match and MAYBE slightly less accurate. It was hard to tell to be honest. Also, the fact that it started raining and the wind was picking up and gusting from all over didn't help. The rain started coming down pretty hard, so I called it a day after these two 15 shot groups at 100.. Not bad at around an inch, the majority being within 3/4".

The Long Range ended up being exactly a 1.5Mil holdover from with a 50 yard zero, which is nice. The Rifle Match, being a little slower, was around 1.6 mil hold over. You can see this in the targets. I was just holding 1.5 Mill on the reticle.

The Chrono information is on 15 shot strings, with a silencerco sparrow on it.

On a side note, I'm extremely happy with this gun. I don't know how it could get any more accurate. It is a little ammo picky and it definitely has gotten more accurate with time. I'm probably around 1.5K rounds at this point and it's a dream to shoot.
 

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So i just ordered a 457 MTR, but I am trying to get everything in for it before it arrives.

How necessary are the say YoDave springs on these guns?
 
So i just ordered a 457 MTR, but I am trying to get everything in for it before it arrives.

How necessary are the say YoDave springs on these guns?
I would absolutely recommend the AREA 419 bolt knob as a must have item. I also went with the Area 419 rail but there is also a Bscar rail that is about 35.00$ I like very fine triggers, so I also suggest the Yo-Dave block and spring kit. My CZ MTR is set to 9 oz. and the CZ Royal I just got Thursday should have it's spring kit installed no later than Tuesday. The trigger pin is a BEAR to deal with but if you decide to do it, I would be happy to share what I did to make the job an easy one. With a little work, you can get a really great trigger. You can see from the sketch below that the new spring goes in line with screw labeled #53. All it does is reduce the felt trigger pull. It does not do anything to reduce the sear engagement or anything that may make the trigger dangerous. I have a safe margin of sear engagement but still a very lite trigger pull. DIP makes an extended magazine release. It is about 2mm longer than the stock unit and is made from aluminum and not plastic like the factory release. In short I would say.... buy the parts and you will enjoy your gun way more. I will post some pics of my new CZ 457 Royal on Sunday PM.
 

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I have the 419 bolt knob/30 moa rail which I highly recommend. I also have the yo Dave spring kit that I haven't installed yet, because the trigger really is nice. You can tune the trigger down to a pretty low pull weight before starting to get slam fires. I'd say just above a pound or so, like others have mentioned. I'd shoot it before ordering the spring.

I also like having the extended mag release, as it is pretty small and hard to get to. The gun always get a lot of attention at the range for its looks, then people see how well it shoots...
 
I have the 419 bolt knob/30 moa rail which I highly recommend. I also have the yo Dave spring kit that I haven't installed yet, because the trigger really is nice. You can tune the trigger down to a pretty low pull weight before starting to get slam fires. I'd say just above a pound or so, like others have mentioned. I'd shoot it before ordering the spring.

I also like having the extended mag release, as it is pretty small and hard to get to. The gun always get a lot of attention at the range for its looks, then people see how well it shoots...

I have the rifle being shipped to area419 for them to put their whole setup on it. Maybe I'll hold off on the trigger stuff.

PM incoming.
 
Sounds good. I sent you the info you were looking for.

Also here are some pics.
 

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How are those Monstrum caps? They look pretty good in your pics.
 
How are those Monstrum caps? They look pretty good in your pics.

They work very well. I end up shooting this gun a lot so if it doesn't have caps the scope gets dirty with all the back and forth.

So another member here was looking for some dimensions on the Yo Dave spring which made me get it out, and so I installed it. It is nice. It's not a make or break it thing with this gun but the spring that replaces the factory spring is significantly less stiff. After putting the spring in, I had to readjust the trigger so it was safe with no slam fires. Definitely lighter. Not a huge difference but you will absolutely notice it. I'd say the trigger breaks under a pound now.

Upon reassembly of the gun, my rear screw that goes into the receiver was protruding enough to catch the firing pin on the bolt when trying to close the bolt. Must be the wood has compressed a little in the stock? It's not much, but the last quarter turn to get everything torqued is just enough to catch it. Anyway, had to sand the screw down a little to get the bolt to run smoothly.
 
They work very well. I end up shooting this gun a lot so if it doesn't have caps the scope gets dirty with all the back and forth.

So another member here was looking for some dimensions on the Yo Dave spring which made me get it out, and so I installed it. It is nice. It's not a make or break it thing with this gun but the spring that replaces the factory spring is significantly less stiff. After putting the spring in, I had to readjust the trigger so it was safe with no slam fires. Definitely lighter. Not a huge difference but you will absolutely notice it. I'd say the trigger breaks under a pound now.

Upon reassembly of the gun, my rear screw that goes into the receiver was protruding enough to catch the firing pin on the bolt when trying to close the bolt. Must be the wood has compressed a little in the stock? It's not much, but the last quarter turn to get everything torqued is just enough to catch it. Anyway, had to sand the screw down a little to get the bolt to run smoothly.
Six months ago, I put in a YoDave spring kit into my CZ MTR and set it to 9 oz. I just bought a CZ Royal on Thursday and will have a new spring in it in a day or two. I believe that I have a supplier for a cheaper spring. I will know that in a couple days as well.
What did you use to retain the trigger pin. I have been using fingernail polish since 1990.
 

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Six months ago, I put in a YoDave spring kit and my trigger in my CZ MTR is set to 9 oz. I just bought a CZ Royal on Thursday and will have a new spring in it in a day or two. I believe that I have a supplier for a cheaper spring. I will know that in a couple days as well.
What did you use to retain the trigger pin. I have been using fingernail polish since 1990.

I didn't use anything. I really didn't take much off the pin when I took it out. Just took off the sharp edge around the end of the pin. It went back in with a little effort and is so tight I doubt it is going anywhere.
 
I didn't use anything. I really didn't take much off the pin when I took it out. Just took off the sharp edge around the end of the pin. It went back in with a little effort and is so tight I doubt it is going anywhere.
Here is the pin from my new CZ Royal. It has some drill points in the ends. The pin diameter is .1175 at the center and .120 at its ends so it has an hourglass shape to it. It looks to me like they staked or expanded the ends of the pin to retain it. I did not want to fight with the pin during reassembly so I chucked it up in a drill and reduced the ends of the pin to .1175 as well. If you just broke the sharp edges, I would agree that your pin wont be coming out. btw.... you have a nice looking gun. Is the bbl stock except for the threaded end?
 

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The barrel is the factory barrel, just threaded by local gunsmith. I'm using a thread protector off a Savage Mark II that is my around the house beater and pest eliminator. It fits almost perfectly on it.

The one thing I will say about the 419 base is that it elevated the scope quite a bit. I found the seekins low rings (the lowest ones they sell) put the scope as low as possible. It puts the magnification ring on the scope a couple thousands above the rail. Still have to use a cheek pad to get lined up perfectly on the scope.

I think that's about as far as I am going to go with this gun. Just shoot it from here on out.
 
The barrel is the factory barrel, just threaded by local gunsmith. I'm using a thread protector off a Savage Mark II that is my around the house beater and pest eliminator. It fits almost perfectly on it.

The one thing I will say about the 419 base is that it elevated the scope quite a bit. I found the seekins low rings (the lowest ones they sell) put the scope as low as possible. It puts the magnification ring on the scope a couple thousands above the rail. Still have to use a cheek pad to get lined up perfectly on the scope.

I think that's about as far as I am going to go with this gun. Just shoot it from here on out.

That's what I like about the BScar 25 MOA rail on my 457 MTR - with an Athlon Cronus 4.5-29x56 in TPS TSR low rings, I don't need any sort of stock pack; in fact, I have a very solid cheek weld on the comb after getting my shooting eye aligned with the Cronus.
 
That's what I like about the BScar 25 MOA rail on my 457 MTR - with an Athlon Cronus 4.5-29x56 in TPS TSR low rings, I don't need any sort of stock pack; in fact, I have a very solid cheek weld on the comb after getting my shooting eye aligned with the Cronus.
Wish I would have seen that before ordering the 419 one considering the price... They are out of stock now. May try to get one and try it out. Can always sell the one I like less.
 
I was curious if Timney had any plans for a 2 stage trigger for the 457. This is what they sent back:
We do not have any plans, I know we are looking into designs for the 457, I can submit a request for 2 Stage.

I told her to submit the request. Not sure if it will really go anywhere, but if anyone else is interested it might not hurt to bump their customer service with a +1.
 
Wish I would have seen that before ordering the 419 one considering the price... They are out of stock now. May try to get one and try it out. Can always sell the one I like less.
The DIP 25 moa rail is also low and I believe around $35. That's what I'm using on my MTR.
 
I'm also going to give the DIP 25 MOA rail a shot. I did a dry fit with some spare Seekins extra tall rings to ensure that the bolt handle would clear them. Seems to work fine. Did a couple quick measurements and landed on the medium high rings for my Athlon Ares BTR.
 
Looked through a bunch of photos to see if I had one that shows how low the BScar rail allows an Athlon Cronus to be mounted on my 457 MTR. Couldn't go much lower and still have objective bell clearance, although it doesn't set as close to the bbl as it looks in this photo. There's actually 1/8" clearance.
 

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Took my buddies brand new cz 457 out today.

Nothing but issues extracting, cci standard, cci subsonic...

What could be the issue?

Seemed to be really tight chamber as well...

E8YAyaK.png


CZ 457 with Nightforce ATACR 5-25 x 56
 
Took my buddies brand new cz 457 out today.

Nothing but issues extracting, cci standard, cci subsonic...

What could be the issue?

Seemed to be really tight chamber as well...

E8YAyaK.png


CZ 457 with Nightforce ATACR 5-25 x 56

Tight match chamber, and CCI stuff is a little thicker. Will take a few hundred rounds to break in.
 
have not had the chance to try out mine yet can hardly wait to do so .
 
Took my buddies brand new cz 457 out today.

Nothing but issues extracting, cci standard, cci subsonic...

What could be the issue?

Seemed to be really tight chamber as well...

E8YAyaK.png


CZ 457 with Nightforce ATACR 5-25 x 56

i would say ammo selection. try something eley or sk. i have at least 1500 rounds through mine and not one issue.

of course i just jinxed it
 
Sounds good. I sent you the info you were looking for.

Also here are some pics.
Hi South Fl...... whos check pad do you have? Im not going for height so much as trying to keep my sweat and salt off of the stock. I sweat so much that I raise the grain.
 
Took my buddies brand new cz 457 out today.

Nothing but issues extracting, cci standard, cci subsonic...

What could be the issue?

Seemed to be really tight chamber as well...

E8YAyaK.png


CZ 457 with Nightforce ATACR 5-25 x 56
My CZ MTR has only had issues with WOLF ammo. For that mater my Vudoo doesn't care for it either. If your buddies CZ is an MTR than it has a match chamber. It is stamped on the left side of the bbl. I have run thousands of rounds of SK rifle match (red box) thru my MTR and that ammo runs great. It is 65.00$ a brick from Target Sports USA.
 

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CZ 457 trigger spring.
For those of you wondering, the stock spring is .148 OD x .35 long and has a wire diameter of .028"
If you go to McMaster-Carr and do a search for 9657K612, ( .148 x .375long x .018 wire diameter ) you will find the spring that is for sale from Yo-Dave.
If you want a softer spring you can use 9657K611 ( .148 x.375 long x .014 wire diameter. ) It has a spring rate of one half of the K612. They both cost 5.33$ per dozen.
Please lets keep in mind that I target shoot and don't throw my guns around. I do however believe in a good amount of sear engagement.
 
CZ 457 trigger spring.
For those of you wondering, the stock spring is .148 OD x .35 long and has a wire diameter of .028"
If you go to McMaster-Carr and do a search for 9657K612, ( .148 x .375long x .018 wire diameter ) you will find the spring that is for sale from Yo-Dave.
If you want a softer spring you can use 9657K611 ( .148 x.375 long x .014 wire diameter. ) It has a spring rate of one half of the K612. They both cost 5.33$ per dozen.
Please lets keep in mind that I target shoot and don't throw my guns around. I do however believe in a good amount of sear engagement.


You think there is is room for a 0.156" diameter spring/have you bought a dozen of them from mcmaster already?
 
You think there is is room for a 0.156" diameter spring/have you bought a dozen of them from mcmaster already?
The spring goes into a spring pocket and I did not measure that diameter. im going to order both spring types tonight.
If you get me your address, I will send you some springs, 3 and 9 micron AO lapping film for free.
 
So I got my new CZ 457 Royal a few days ago and this is my first impression. For better over all photos, see the sales ligature.
The first thing that I noticed is how svelte the rifle is. Mine has a 20.5"bbl. even though the ligature says it comes in 16" & 22".
The next thing I saw was the very attractive machined sling swivels. My concern was that they would not attach to a bi-pod and I did not want to be stuck using a bag. Third was the bbl. thread protector. It is bigger than the bbl. I would have preferred it to be flush. The bbl. is also threaded in 1/2-20 and not 1/2-28 like all of my other guns. the diameter of the bbl. at the muzzle is .55". The Royal is not advertised as having a Match chamber but that does not seem to cause any issues.
even with the fancy sling swivels, a Harris bi-pod clamps up and wont interfere with the wood stock even at it's maximum tilt as shown in photo no. seven.
She was about 850.00 so given a choice between the Royal and the MTR, I would get the MTR.

Shawn
 

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CZ 457 spring replacement.....
I just drove the pin out of my CZ Royal. It has a diameter of .1175 at the center and is a couple of thousandths larger on it's ends so it has an hourglass shape to it. It appears as though they staked the pin in place to retain it without adding cost.
To keep it simple enough for anyone to do this change out, I used the simplest of tools. I chucked up the pin in my drill and reduced the diameter just a hair with some 400 wet / dry sand paper. You don't need any kind of measuring tools to do this.
As soon as the pin glides through the trigger blade, your done. less than 10 minutes.
I affixed some 3 and 9 micron lapping film onto a flat surface as shown in photo 3. Also in photo 3 you can see that the trigger will stand on the sear surface all on it's own. All you need do is to use lite to medium pressure on the sear surface to lap off the very slight irregularities. Photo 4 shows that the factory sear surface has a hollow on it. The sear surface is nearly a quarter inch square and will stay that way if you take your time. It will take over an hour.
For reassembly, there is a spring pocket in the trigger blade, If you have any type of heavy grease, ( today I used silicon plumbing grease from Lowes. ) you can put it in the pocket to retain the new spring while you put the blade back in place. You can use any kind of grease because it is not being used as a lubricant but as an assembly aid. Before you put the blade back in place, put some lube on the trigger sear. I use MOS2 ( Moly ) Your smaller pin will slide in with ease now. And now all you need do is test your trigger and retain the pin. For this demo, I used a prick punch to stake the pin in place. It only takes a very lite strike to create the dimple adjacent to the pin. An option is fingernail polish. You will also want to adjust your trigger and that will require that you remove the magazine well. This would be a good time to replace the plastic mag release
with an aluminum release from D.I.P.
BTW.... the last photo shows what the trigger sear should look like in an ideal world. You only need to lap the one sear surface and not the trigger bar sear.

EDIT.... Be aware of the recoil block falling out when you have the action out of the stock. You can put some heavy grease in the recoil lug pocket to keep it in place too. It's easy to have the gun on your knees and lift the stock and have the lug fall onto the carpet.

Lots of luck
Shawn
 

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Just some cleaning FYI that I use on my .22 lr...... I like to use Hoppes .243 / .25 caliber brushes. I also use .270 pro-shot patches.
And I have Possum Hollow bore guides for nearly all of my rifles. It allows me to do a much better job much faster.
I had sent my Vudoo in for an accuracy issue and they told me that it was mostly a carbon ring buildup. That said, I decided to revisit my cleaning procedure. I'm also testing a bunch of carbon removing cleaners.
Anybody have any suggestions about a nice bore scope??
 
You think there is is room for a 0.156" diameter spring/have you bought a dozen of them from mcmaster already?
I just wrote up a quick post about what needs to be done. Here is a sketch that Lefty 222 did some months back. Item 49 is backwards. In is LESS engagement.
 

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