CZ 457

Tactical Taz

Private
Belligerents
Feb 15, 2017
231
109
49
WYOMING
Question for the 457 & 455 guys who have run their rifles in NRL22 matches; Do those long 10-round mags get hung up on barracades? Or worse yet, have you damaged them in the process of getting them hung up?
No, mine never have. I always use a bag. If anything, the mag will sit on the bag occasionally, but is never a problem.
 

DRAGON64

Sergeant
Belligerents
Feb 22, 2011
392
45
34
Alabama
Good to know, as I try to formulate a decision between a 457 or a T1X for my entry rifle into NRL22, thanks!
 

Eoddave27

Sergeant
Belligerents
Minuteman
Jan 9, 2018
1,194
1,042
119
45
Bel Air, MD
What procedure are you using to adjust your 457 trigger? I left the overtravel & weight of pull screws alone, and with the rifle cocked on an empty chamber, backed-off the sear engagement (the really small vertical screw at the top/front of the trigger itself) until it fired. Then set it for a little more sear engagement, and bump-tested it for safety. Easily got my American's trigger down to just a hair over 1lb, and the MTR to right at or just under 1lb.

I took my 457 apart and adjusted the trigger using the sear adjustment as you suggested. Just working with that I was able to get my trigger down to a really nice crisp 1 1/2 lb pull which is perfect for me. I’m pretty sure I could have gone lower but for positional shooting I like right around 1 1/2 lbs. I did some pretty serious bump testing with no problems. I’ll get it back out to the range in the next few days and do some function testing but I think it will be perfect.
 
  • Like
Reactions: littlepod

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
I took my 457 apart and adjusted the trigger using the sear adjustment as you suggested. Just working with that I was able to get my trigger down to a really nice crisp 1 1/2 lb pull which is perfect for me. I’m pretty sure I could have gone lower but for positional shooting I like right around 1 1/2 lbs. I did some pretty serious bump testing with no problems. I’ll get it back out to the range in the next few days and do some function testing but I think it will be perfect.
You may consider a "YoDave" trigger spring kit. It took my 457 MTR trigger down to nine oz. I like the MTR so much that I just bought a Royal yesterday and another Area 419 rail and bolt knob. I should have it in a few short days.
 

Eoddave27

Sergeant
Belligerents
Minuteman
Jan 9, 2018
1,194
1,042
119
45
Bel Air, MD
Shawn, I will not be spending $25 on a $0.02 spring anytime soon. 1 1/2 lbs is where I want me trigger. For me any lower doing positional shooting just doesn’t feel safe. I use my rifles for positional matches. For me anything lighter is just asking for a ND and. DQ in a match.
 

flatland1

Sergeant
Belligerents
Jul 7, 2005
1,292
552
219
68
Western Kansas
Shawn, I will not be spending $25 on a $0.02 spring anytime soon. 1 1/2 lbs is where I want me trigger. For me any lower doing positional shooting just doesn’t feel safe. I use my rifles for positional matches. For me anything lighter is just asking for a ND and. DQ in a match.
I tend to agree with your opinion on trigger weight. Even though I've got the TT Diamonds on my V-22 comp rifles set at under 1lb, I'm pretty comfortable with the triggers on my 457 American & MTR set at just a bit over 1lb. The way I see it - keeping in mind that Trigger Tech designed the Diamond to go this light from the start - CZ obviously had to deal with the reality that their 457s were going to be used by shooters with widely varied ranges of experience, as well as - especially in the case of the Scout version - knowing that young shooters were going to be introduced to the sport of rifle shooting with these rifles. So, while I applaud CZ for putting a trigger as good as the 457's on the market, I doubt they're all that keen on the idea of owners putting lighter springs in these triggers and winding up with a break well under the range they designed the trigger for. Some of these rifles with modified triggers are inevitably going to wind up on the used market, and as hard as I hear it is to remove the trigger pin to change the spring, I seriously doubt the original owners of most that do get sold are going to take the time to put the OEM spring back into the trigger. I re-barreled a CZ527 7.62x39 Carbine to 6RAT several years ago, and not liking the single set trigger, replaced it with one from Rifle Basix. It now breaks at under 1lb, and unless I can adjust it up to at least 2lbs, I'd not feel at all comfortable in selling this little rifle.
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
I tend to agree with your opinion on trigger weight. Even though I've got the TT Diamonds on my V-22 comp rifles set at under 1lb, I'm pretty comfortable with the triggers on my 457 American & MTR set at just a bit over 1lb. The way I see it - keeping in mind that Trigger Tech designed the Diamond to go this light from the start - CZ obviously had to deal with the reality that their 457s were going to be used by shooters with widely varied ranges of experience, as well as - especially in the case of the Scout version - knowing that young shooters were going to be introduced to the sport of rifle shooting with these rifles. So, while I applaud CZ for putting a trigger as good as the 457's on the market, I doubt they're all that keen on the idea of owners putting lighter springs in these triggers and winding up with a break well under the range they designed the trigger for. Some of these rifles with modified triggers are inevitably going to wind up on the used market, and as hard as I hear it is to remove the trigger pin to change the spring, I seriously doubt the original owners of most that do get sold are going to take the time to put the OEM spring back into the trigger. I re-barreled a CZ527 7.62x39 Carbine to 6RAT several years ago, and not liking the single set trigger, replaced it with one from Rifle Basix. It now breaks at under 1lb, and unless I can adjust it up to at least 2lbs, I'd not feel at all comfortable in selling this little rifle.
Dennis, Your right, the CZ 457 trigger pin is a bear to get out the first time because it is press fit into the blade. That is why I reduced the diameter a bit to make it a slip fit. I hold the pin in with fingernail polish, see attachment. Let us please keep in mind that I replaced a spring and am in no way suggesting that anyone reduce the sear engagement to an unsafe level. I rarely sell a gun but when I do, I also hand over any OEM parts to that gun in a zip loc bag to the new owner. The second photo is of a trigger that I lapped. I think that we could all agree that lapping a sear will only change the way the trigger feels and not in and of itself make it a hazard. In the forth drawing done by Lefty 222, you can get an idea of how the 457 trigger works. The YoDave spring pushes against the blade itself and that is why it feels so heavy. BTW... Lefty has made two mistakes on his adjustment screws. As I recall, he has #49 backwards. As far as my guns go, only my .223 has a trigger over a pound. It has a stock Geissele at around 3 pounds. The rest are between four and eight oz. Most of them are stock units IE: BSA, Annie's, FWB, Trigger Tech Diamond in my V-22. They are there because that is where I prefer them. I was simply offering up an Idea incase some people were unaware of the spring kit.
Best regards
Shawn Carroll
 

Attachments

Last edited:

flatland1

Sergeant
Belligerents
Jul 7, 2005
1,292
552
219
68
Western Kansas
Shawn,
I didn't intend my post to be taken as aimed at anyone person, rather as a general statement for 457 owners to consider. The reason I brought it up is that I had the trigger on my 457 American work fine at the initial setting I arrived at by backing-off the sear engagement until it released, then increasing the engagement until it held through fast & hard bolt operation & a bump test. However, a few range sessions later, it went off while I was closing the bolt - and I wasn't running it fast or hard. Maybe my engagement adjustment didn't stay set where I had it, or perhaps the engagement surfaces wore-in a bit - or? I've since increased sear engagement again, after flushing the trigger housing with brake & parts cleaner, followed by several blasts of compressed air. That was several months ago, and since then, I've re-barreled the American with a Shilen blank, added a longer bolt knob, and shot it quite a bit, enjoying the improved accuracy afforded by the Shilen bbl. Never had another problem, never experienced any creep or other unpleasantness - and the more I shoot this rifle, the more I enjoy it. I believe the trigger breaks at 1-1/4lb currently, and though at first I thought it'd be easier to shoot if I did the YoDave spring installation, I've decided to leave it alone. It works great in offhand, isn't that hard to shoot off rests, and I feel pretty safe with it. That's not to say that I'm critical of owners doing the YoDave installation - to each his own.

Indeed, not too long ago, I posted my intentions to put the YoDave springs in both the American & my MTR. And I may yet use the spring in the MTR's trigger - it's a work in progress, also with a Shilen select match, ratchet rifled bbl. Though the Shilen on this rifle does shoot a bit better than the OEM MTR bbl, I feel there's more potential there, and to that end, will drill out the plastic pillars, replace them with aluminum ones, and bed the action. If that helps the accuracy, but I feel the OEM trigger is holding me back, I'll go with the lighter spring.

I remember that photo of the trigger you'd lapped from an earlier thread - that's impressive work. Not everyone has the skill or patience to get results like that. It does bring up the thought that, if both engagement surfaces have that fine a finish, I would think it has the potential of actually increasing the weight of pull due to more complete meshing/engagement of the two surfaces. It would need lubricant to avoid slip-stick or creep - or at least, that's what seems logical to me. Your thoughts?

As far as lefty222's drawing of the 457 trigger - when I first saw it, the sear engagement instructions were reversed, but he'd put up a note saying so. I don't recall whether he put the correction in textual form in a follow-up post, or added a note to his drawing? I first saw his drawing on RFC, and appreciated his taking the time to draw it out & label parts.

One more thought - I used to think the triggers on my Anschutz 1611 & 2011 rifles were lighter than anything else I'd used (with the exception of a 2oz Jewell on a used 6PPC BR rifle I'd bought), but after setting the Diamonds down to around 6-8oz, it made the trigger break on my 2011 seem rather heavy by comparison. I'll have to do some adjusting on the 2011's trigger down the road...
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
Dennis,
I have two Annie's with the 64 action and they both have the 5098 triggers. They are set from the factory at about 6.38 oz. they will only go down to 6.25 oz. Some Annie's have other triggers that are much heavier. To my recollection, they only make one trigger lighter than the 5098 and that unit alone is about 650.00

I too recall Lefty making a correction in another post and I too appreciate the time he took to help us all out.

As far as the lapped trigger goes, I would never tolerate any kind of slip/stick of any kind. lol
If this were a car engine, you would be correct in thinking that you would never have a high polish on the surfaces. In that case you erase the micro reservoirs for the oil to stay in. Their is a name for the hone process for that case that escapes me at this moment.
I use a moly based lube on my triggers (MOS2) In very small amounts. It has a super low coefficient of friction. If you could look at any machined surface you will find scratches and waves and they have an Arithmetical Average or roughness and those waves can hang up on each other. When I lap my triggers, I am not going for shinny but dead flat. It is that roughness that you feel as creep. In my minds eye, it's like miniature interlocking lines. Or on a large scale, a chain and sprocket. I should take this time to note that you also want to lap your sears in the direction of travel. You have to have a certain "Lay" pattern.

I would also never tolerate a gun going off on it's own. I had my V-22 and its TT Diamond set at 4 oz. I was running it fast and it goes off. I had to increase it to 8 oz. to prevent it discharging. As I write this, it should probably go back for service. I am actually a big fan of a two stage trigger with lots of first stage sear engagement. Another way that I can tell that the lapped trigger reduces friction is that with guns that have heavy loads on the sears, you can pull in the first stage and release the trigger and it will return to battery. A trigger that is not dressed properly wont.

In truth, I take safety very seriously.

I just had a chat with Dave and suggested providing new trigger pins and having people stake the pins in place after assembly. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Staking_(manufacturing) It would be a simple solution to the reassembly and pin retention issue of the 457 trigger. Getting the pin out is still a scary process. I know some feel that using fingernail polish is flaky so that is the best low cost solution. They have been doing staking in aircraft for at least 50 years.

Best
Shawn
 

Attachments

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
Dennis,
I found an example of a "Staked" item. It is the bolt from an AR-15 and its bolt carrier key and screws. The material adjacent to the screws has been upset to keep the screws from getting loose. In the case of the 457 trigger pin you cant approach it from the sides so you would just use a prick punch to upset or deform the surface material adjacent to the pin. That creates a localized press fit on the trigger pin and would retain it from any lateral movement.
That was my suggestion to Dave for his problem. Supply a new trigger pin and have folks Stake the new pins in place. I'm sure most would feel better with that than using my fingernail polish approach. I can hear the naysayers laughing now....
 

Attachments

flatland1

Sergeant
Belligerents
Jul 7, 2005
1,292
552
219
68
Western Kansas
Can you imagine how much trouble a gas key coming loose would cause? I've put together a lot of AR15/10s over the years, and have seen only one gas key come loose - due to improperly staked key screws.

I have no problem with your use of fingernail polish on the 457 trigger pin - as long as it doesn't flake off over time, why not use it? There may be a Loc-tite product that's perhaps better for the application, but I don't know which one would be correct. I'd be concerned with a wicking compound like #290 weeping on into the trigger & locking it up on the pin. I used Loc-tite #609 to glue the two Shilen bbls into my 457 American & MTR, and haven't had any issues so far - did the American bbl job May 1 and the MTR on the 19th, so it's been around five months for both. Have to admit though, that I shoot my V-22s a whole lot more often than I have the two CZs, but after reading that Walther has been using a similar adhesive to glue bbls into receivers of some of their target rifles, I'm not worried about the longevity of #609. The problem I see with staking the trigger pin would be if it's over-done slightly, and someone tries to drive it out, it may do irreparable damage to the trigger housing. OTOH, I see little or no downside to the use of fingernail polish....
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
Can you imagine how much trouble a gas key coming loose would cause? I've put together a lot of AR15/10s over the years, and have seen only one gas key come loose - due to improperly staked key screws.

I have no problem with your use of fingernail polish on the 457 trigger pin - as long as it doesn't flake off over time, why not use it? There may be a Loc-tite product that's perhaps better for the application, but I don't know which one would be correct. I'd be concerned with a wicking compound like #290 weeping on into the trigger & locking it up on the pin. I used Loc-tite #609 to glue the two Shilen bbls into my 457 American & MTR, and haven't had any issues so far - did the American bbl job May 1 and the MTR on the 19th, so it's been around five months for both. Have to admit though, that I shoot my V-22s a whole lot more often than I have the two CZs, but after reading that Walther has been using a similar adhesive to glue bbls into receivers of some of their target rifles, I'm not worried about the longevity of #609. The problem I see with staking the trigger pin would be if it's over-done slightly, and someone tries to drive it out, it may do irreparable damage to the trigger housing. OTOH, I see little or no downside to the use of fingernail polish....
Hi Dennis,
When I emailed Dave, I told him that I did not use Loc-tite because of the wicking concern. As for the trigger pins, it only takes the smallest upset to retain the trigger pins and noting like the gas key needs. I did want to give Dave an alternative to the fingernail polish or E-clips. Something tried and tested. I really enjoy my MTR. It shoots on par with my V-22. I like the CZ so much that I just bought a Royal on Friday with the longer bbl. When I spoke with Dave, he told me that the springs he sells were custom made for size and spring rate. I will however look for a cheap replacement out of idle curiosity. When I originally changed out my spring, I wrote up a post about the perils of the task. While driving the pin out I bent a brass punch and was starting to bend a steel punch. The trigger pin in my gun was a heavy press fit. So as to not damage anything putting it back together, I chucked up the pin in my drill and reduced the diameter a couple thousandths with some 220 wet/dry. Just to a slip fit. Maybe over the years I have lost sight of how these seemingly simple things may not be so simple for others. It is difficult to know how has good ideas that work and how is just talking. That is one reason that I like to support my claim with some kind of rational, IE: staking the gas key. I like to give people the confidents to use an idea and not just follow it blindly.

chat soon
Shawn
 

acudaowner

Old Salt
Belligerents
Minuteman
Dec 26, 2018
3,271
2,006
119
just got mine yesterday 8 months and the sun was shinning yesterday picked up the 457 varmint mtr still need everything rail , bipod scope but i got the gun thank god .:giggle:
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
just got mine yesterday 8 months and the sun was shinning yesterday picked up the 457 varmint mtr still need everything rail , bipod scope but i got the gun thank god .:giggle:
What did you shoot those groups with? they look very nice! If you mean that you need everything for your MTR.... I would recommend the AREA 419 rail and as a must have item, the 419 bolt knob. The knob totally changes the feel of the gun. I used 222 (Purple) loc-tite and only screw the knob on until it covered the threads. At first it looked funky to me and I had strong doubts about the knob but it feels and functions
great. It feels like it is exactly what should be there. Lefty 222 took the time to make this drawing of the 457 trigger. He later came back and corrected item number 49 as being backwards. "In" is less engagement. I like my MTR so much that I just bought a 457 Royal on Friday and have ordered another 419 rail and knob for it.
Enough has been said about the Yo Dave spring kit, but I also have another one of those on order too. It brought my MTR trigger down to 9 oz. and is perfectly safe. Except for my trigger, the MTR is stock and shoots on par with my VuDoo.
Again great shooting.....
Shawn Carroll
 

Attachments

flatland1

Sergeant
Belligerents
Jul 7, 2005
1,292
552
219
68
Western Kansas
I went with a BScar 25 MOA rail on both 457s - American & MTR. It's about half the height/thickness of the Area 419 rail, which worked out well when it comes to not needing any sort of stock pack or riser to get a good cheek weld on both rifles. It also cost just $35, including shipping.

I was going to order the Area 419 bolt knob for my MTR, but they were out of stock, so I went to work to turn one very similar on my lathe. I agree with Shawn that it makes a very impressive difference in the ease of operating the 457's bolt. I feel this big knob looks fine on the MTR, but I wanted something a little smaller in profile that wouldn't look so out of place on the American sporter, yet enough longer to give the extra leverage that makes opening the bolt on these rifles quite a bit easier. The attached photo shows the knob on the American, and also shows how low the BScar 25 MOA rail is. I put an Athlon Midas TAC 6-24x50 scope in TPS TSR low rings on this rifle, and as you can see, the low rings give adequate clearance to allow the scope's power ring to clear the top of the rail, yet keeps the scope low enough to result in a very comfortable head position (at least for me).
 

Attachments

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
Dennis, Thanks for the info on the BScar rail. Who knows, I may need a lower rail for my new Royal.
I have my Cronus on my MTR today but it is going onto the Royal. I have a Trijicon 5-50x56 on my
Vudoo and like it so much that I'm going to get another for the MTR. That is a good looking American you have.

Shawn
 

littlepod

Newbie
Online Training Access
Belligerents
Oct 16, 2012
2,331
1,382
219
Kirkland, WA
How does the Varmint compare to the MTR in terms of precision? Does the MTR group much better? If I'm building a precision rifle rig, would the MTR suffice and just throw it into a new chassis, or would I be better served getting a cheap VZ 457, and getting an aftermarket barrel? You mention your MTR shooting on par with your V22. I'd like something that would shoot on par with a V22 and not cost $1750 :)
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
To start, I really love my V22. It has a lot of things to like about her besides just accuracy. As far as my V22 cost, the action was 1750.00 and the MDT chassis, rear stock, weights was another 1600.00. Then I bought 20 mags. (660.00) So my cost has ballooned up to over 4000.00. My CZ 457 MTR plus rail and bolt was 850.00 plus six mags for her (210.00). I feed them both SK rifle match (red box) and they both love it. My CZ is stock except for a trigger spring kit and bolt knob and I see no need to replace the bbl. and I have never looked for a chassis. All that said, I guess it just depends on how much money you have for toy's. I can say that I like my MTR better than my two Annie's but not because of an accuracy issue. I feel the MTR is a great buy. I have run my Trijicon 5-50x56 (1800.00) on both guns and they shoot the same for me.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Eoddave27

Sergeant
Belligerents
Minuteman
Jan 9, 2018
1,194
1,042
119
45
Bel Air, MD
I finally got out to the range and shot a few groups with my CZ. I will be the first to admit I’m not a group shooter and I’m sure the rifle can actually do better. These are shot with the old Wolf Match Target that was made by lapua. I’m guessing it’s about the same as the SK+. The group with my thumb by it was my cold bore shot. The bottom left group the wind picked up making it string from left to right. Everything else looks pretty decent though for a bone stock rifle.

BTW these are all 5 shot groups at 50 yards.

96CDCBEB-BD9B-4D0F-9A13-1685B96E891E.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Eoddave27

Sergeant
Belligerents
Minuteman
Jan 9, 2018
1,194
1,042
119
45
Bel Air, MD
About the same. I’m sure they will both shoot better than me. I’m just not a group shooter. I may have spent 15 seconds shooting each of those groups so it’s not like I was being particularly precise with my shooting. The entire 6x5 was shot in probably 1 1/2 minutes with mag changes. I just don’t have the patience to set and shoot groups.
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
They look damn good to me..... I too hate shooting paper, it is just a necessary evil to me. What kind of CZ was that? If my new Royal with the 20.5" bbl. shoots that well, I will be happy as can be. As it is, I love my MTR.
Dave, what does your T1X look like? Is it stock?
 
Last edited:

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
Good looking guns..... and tools as well. Before I became ill, I had some Lie-Nielsen hand tools. I lapped off the irons just the way I do my trigger sears so they were razor sharp and a joy to use. They were expensive but I was able to sell them on e-bay for what I bought them for. Buy quality and you won't have regrets.
How would you compare the Tikka trigger to the CZ?
 

Attachments

Eoddave27

Sergeant
Belligerents
Minuteman
Jan 9, 2018
1,194
1,042
119
45
Bel Air, MD
I have quite a few Lie Nielsen tools too. Mine don’t look quite a pretty as yours though. Mine have had almost daily use for 10 years so there is a little wear on mine.

I honestly can’t really tell a difference in the triggers. Maybe if I close my eyes and really concentrate I would be able to feel the difference but it would be hard. I have both triggers set to break right at 1 1/2 lbs and they are both great.
 

SouthFLShootin

Private
Hessian
Minuteman
Jan 8, 2019
69
48
24
Was thinking about doing my first NRL22 type match next weekend and I just got a new scope, so I went to the range today to get things dialed in. Only have access to 100yards so I also brought the Chrono with me to see if I might be able to get enough data to get close at distances up to 300.

I have the MTR which is all factory except for a bedded stock and the factory barrel that I had threaded. I almost always shoot it suppressed. The gun tends to like the SK Rifle Match the best and I also tried out some SK Long Range ammo as well.

After getting sighted in at 50, the Rifle Match seemed to be just as accurate as the Long Range at 100 yards. The Long Range was a little faster than the Rifle Match and MAYBE slightly less accurate. It was hard to tell to be honest. Also, the fact that it started raining and the wind was picking up and gusting from all over didn't help. The rain started coming down pretty hard, so I called it a day after these two 15 shot groups at 100.. Not bad at around an inch, the majority being within 3/4".

The Long Range ended up being exactly a 1.5Mil holdover from with a 50 yard zero, which is nice. The Rifle Match, being a little slower, was around 1.6 mil hold over. You can see this in the targets. I was just holding 1.5 Mill on the reticle.

The Chrono information is on 15 shot strings, with a silencerco sparrow on it.

On a side note, I'm extremely happy with this gun. I don't know how it could get any more accurate. It is a little ammo picky and it definitely has gotten more accurate with time. I'm probably around 1.5K rounds at this point and it's a dream to shoot.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

JMcBurn

Private
Belligerents
Oct 6, 2013
484
116
49
Toledo, OH
So i just ordered a 457 MTR, but I am trying to get everything in for it before it arrives.

How necessary are the say YoDave springs on these guns?
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
So i just ordered a 457 MTR, but I am trying to get everything in for it before it arrives.

How necessary are the say YoDave springs on these guns?
I would absolutely recommend the AREA 419 bolt knob as a must have item. I also went with the Area 419 rail but there is also a Bscar rail that is about 35.00$ I like very fine triggers, so I also suggest the Yo-Dave block and spring kit. My CZ MTR is set to 9 oz. and the CZ Royal I just got Thursday should have it's spring kit installed no later than Tuesday. The trigger pin is a BEAR to deal with but if you decide to do it, I would be happy to share what I did to make the job an easy one. With a little work, you can get a really great trigger. You can see from the sketch below that the new spring goes in line with screw labeled #53. All it does is reduce the felt trigger pull. It does not do anything to reduce the sear engagement or anything that may make the trigger dangerous. I have a safe margin of sear engagement but still a very lite trigger pull. DIP makes an extended magazine release. It is about 2mm longer than the stock unit and is made from aluminum and not plastic like the factory release. In short I would say.... buy the parts and you will enjoy your gun way more. I will post some pics of my new CZ 457 Royal on Sunday PM.
 

Attachments

SouthFLShootin

Private
Hessian
Minuteman
Jan 8, 2019
69
48
24
I have the 419 bolt knob/30 moa rail which I highly recommend. I also have the yo Dave spring kit that I haven't installed yet, because the trigger really is nice. You can tune the trigger down to a pretty low pull weight before starting to get slam fires. I'd say just above a pound or so, like others have mentioned. I'd shoot it before ordering the spring.

I also like having the extended mag release, as it is pretty small and hard to get to. The gun always get a lot of attention at the range for its looks, then people see how well it shoots...
 

JMcBurn

Private
Belligerents
Oct 6, 2013
484
116
49
Toledo, OH
I have the 419 bolt knob/30 moa rail which I highly recommend. I also have the yo Dave spring kit that I haven't installed yet, because the trigger really is nice. You can tune the trigger down to a pretty low pull weight before starting to get slam fires. I'd say just above a pound or so, like others have mentioned. I'd shoot it before ordering the spring.

I also like having the extended mag release, as it is pretty small and hard to get to. The gun always get a lot of attention at the range for its looks, then people see how well it shoots...
I have the rifle being shipped to area419 for them to put their whole setup on it. Maybe I'll hold off on the trigger stuff.

PM incoming.
 

krimet

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Oct 2, 2019
124
32
34
How are those Monstrum caps? They look pretty good in your pics.
 

SouthFLShootin

Private
Hessian
Minuteman
Jan 8, 2019
69
48
24
How are those Monstrum caps? They look pretty good in your pics.
They work very well. I end up shooting this gun a lot so if it doesn't have caps the scope gets dirty with all the back and forth.

So another member here was looking for some dimensions on the Yo Dave spring which made me get it out, and so I installed it. It is nice. It's not a make or break it thing with this gun but the spring that replaces the factory spring is significantly less stiff. After putting the spring in, I had to readjust the trigger so it was safe with no slam fires. Definitely lighter. Not a huge difference but you will absolutely notice it. I'd say the trigger breaks under a pound now.

Upon reassembly of the gun, my rear screw that goes into the receiver was protruding enough to catch the firing pin on the bolt when trying to close the bolt. Must be the wood has compressed a little in the stock? It's not much, but the last quarter turn to get everything torqued is just enough to catch it. Anyway, had to sand the screw down a little to get the bolt to run smoothly.
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
They work very well. I end up shooting this gun a lot so if it doesn't have caps the scope gets dirty with all the back and forth.

So another member here was looking for some dimensions on the Yo Dave spring which made me get it out, and so I installed it. It is nice. It's not a make or break it thing with this gun but the spring that replaces the factory spring is significantly less stiff. After putting the spring in, I had to readjust the trigger so it was safe with no slam fires. Definitely lighter. Not a huge difference but you will absolutely notice it. I'd say the trigger breaks under a pound now.

Upon reassembly of the gun, my rear screw that goes into the receiver was protruding enough to catch the firing pin on the bolt when trying to close the bolt. Must be the wood has compressed a little in the stock? It's not much, but the last quarter turn to get everything torqued is just enough to catch it. Anyway, had to sand the screw down a little to get the bolt to run smoothly.
Six months ago, I put in a YoDave spring kit into my CZ MTR and set it to 9 oz. I just bought a CZ Royal on Thursday and will have a new spring in it in a day or two. I believe that I have a supplier for a cheaper spring. I will know that in a couple days as well.
What did you use to retain the trigger pin. I have been using fingernail polish since 1990.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

SouthFLShootin

Private
Hessian
Minuteman
Jan 8, 2019
69
48
24
Six months ago, I put in a YoDave spring kit and my trigger in my CZ MTR is set to 9 oz. I just bought a CZ Royal on Thursday and will have a new spring in it in a day or two. I believe that I have a supplier for a cheaper spring. I will know that in a couple days as well.
What did you use to retain the trigger pin. I have been using fingernail polish since 1990.
I didn't use anything. I really didn't take much off the pin when I took it out. Just took off the sharp edge around the end of the pin. It went back in with a little effort and is so tight I doubt it is going anywhere.
 

AirGunShawn

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2019
462
145
49
I didn't use anything. I really didn't take much off the pin when I took it out. Just took off the sharp edge around the end of the pin. It went back in with a little effort and is so tight I doubt it is going anywhere.
Here is the pin from my new CZ Royal. It has some drill points in the ends. The pin diameter is .1175 at the center and .120 at its ends so it has an hourglass shape to it. It looks to me like they staked or expanded the ends of the pin to retain it. I did not want to fight with the pin during reassembly so I chucked it up in a drill and reduced the ends of the pin to .1175 as well. If you just broke the sharp edges, I would agree that your pin wont be coming out. btw.... you have a nice looking gun. Is the bbl stock except for the threaded end?
 

Attachments

Last edited:

SouthFLShootin

Private
Hessian
Minuteman
Jan 8, 2019
69
48
24
The barrel is the factory barrel, just threaded by local gunsmith. I'm using a thread protector off a Savage Mark II that is my around the house beater and pest eliminator. It fits almost perfectly on it.

The one thing I will say about the 419 base is that it elevated the scope quite a bit. I found the seekins low rings (the lowest ones they sell) put the scope as low as possible. It puts the magnification ring on the scope a couple thousands above the rail. Still have to use a cheek pad to get lined up perfectly on the scope.

I think that's about as far as I am going to go with this gun. Just shoot it from here on out.
 

flatland1

Sergeant
Belligerents
Jul 7, 2005
1,292
552
219
68
Western Kansas
The barrel is the factory barrel, just threaded by local gunsmith. I'm using a thread protector off a Savage Mark II that is my around the house beater and pest eliminator. It fits almost perfectly on it.

The one thing I will say about the 419 base is that it elevated the scope quite a bit. I found the seekins low rings (the lowest ones they sell) put the scope as low as possible. It puts the magnification ring on the scope a couple thousands above the rail. Still have to use a cheek pad to get lined up perfectly on the scope.

I think that's about as far as I am going to go with this gun. Just shoot it from here on out.
That's what I like about the BScar 25 MOA rail on my 457 MTR - with an Athlon Cronus 4.5-29x56 in TPS TSR low rings, I don't need any sort of stock pack; in fact, I have a very solid cheek weld on the comb after getting my shooting eye aligned with the Cronus.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SouthFLShootin

SouthFLShootin

Private
Hessian
Minuteman
Jan 8, 2019
69
48
24
That's what I like about the BScar 25 MOA rail on my 457 MTR - with an Athlon Cronus 4.5-29x56 in TPS TSR low rings, I don't need any sort of stock pack; in fact, I have a very solid cheek weld on the comb after getting my shooting eye aligned with the Cronus.
Wish I would have seen that before ordering the 419 one considering the price... They are out of stock now. May try to get one and try it out. Can always sell the one I like less.
 

krimet

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Oct 2, 2019
124
32
34
I was curious if Timney had any plans for a 2 stage trigger for the 457. This is what they sent back:
We do not have any plans, I know we are looking into designs for the 457, I can submit a request for 2 Stage.
I told her to submit the request. Not sure if it will really go anywhere, but if anyone else is interested it might not hurt to bump their customer service with a +1.
 

gunjunkie45

Gunny Sergeant
Belligerents
Nov 28, 2009
968
2,843
99
42
Wisconsin
Wish I would have seen that before ordering the 419 one considering the price... They are out of stock now. May try to get one and try it out. Can always sell the one I like less.
The DIP 25 moa rail is also low and I believe around $35. That's what I'm using on my MTR.
 

krimet

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
Oct 2, 2019
124
32
34
I'm also going to give the DIP 25 MOA rail a shot. I did a dry fit with some spare Seekins extra tall rings to ensure that the bolt handle would clear them. Seems to work fine. Did a couple quick measurements and landed on the medium high rings for my Athlon Ares BTR.
 

flatland1

Sergeant
Belligerents
Jul 7, 2005
1,292
552
219
68
Western Kansas
Looked through a bunch of photos to see if I had one that shows how low the BScar rail allows an Athlon Cronus to be mounted on my 457 MTR. Couldn't go much lower and still have objective bell clearance, although it doesn't set as close to the bbl as it looks in this photo. There's actually 1/8" clearance.
 

Attachments

chanrobi

Private
Belligerents
Sep 14, 2019
41
9
12
Took my buddies brand new cz 457 out today.

Nothing but issues extracting, cci standard, cci subsonic...

What could be the issue?

Seemed to be really tight chamber as well...



CZ 457 with Nightforce ATACR 5-25 x 56
 

littlepod

Newbie
Online Training Access
Belligerents
Oct 16, 2012
2,331
1,382
219
Kirkland, WA
Took my buddies brand new cz 457 out today.

Nothing but issues extracting, cci standard, cci subsonic...

What could be the issue?

Seemed to be really tight chamber as well...



CZ 457 with Nightforce ATACR 5-25 x 56
Tight match chamber, and CCI stuff is a little thicker. Will take a few hundred rounds to break in.