I don't know why they don't list it in the specs. My buddy has the 16.5" barrel, and his is threaded 1/2"x28. Hope that helps.
- Thread starter A-Rob
- Start date
I don't know why they don't list it in the specs. My buddy has the 16.5" barrel, and his is threaded 1/2"x28. Hope that helps.
You will be fine with the 457 provarmint 16.5”. I used a suppressed 455 tacticool 16”(model later renamed to varmint in 457 series) for a few years in steel matches and did very well with it until the bolt started pulling out unexpectedly every few shots. The 457 series has corrected this flaw and has some nice upgrades but still uses the same proven magazine system that just works very well.
The big differences in most of the cz457 line are stocks and barrel profiles, with only the MTR having a match chambered barrel. I would avoid the skinny barrel profile of the american and scout and stick with their heavy barrels in the varmint line. Barrel quality is a lottery draw, but most heavy cz rimfire barrels I’ve seen have been pretty consistent, IE they will be more than good enough for a NRL22 style match. The stock choices are what you are paying for in this line up. Once i put a kydex adjustable cheekrest on my tacticool i found i really liked that stock. The provarmint stocks are very useable in a match or just for plinking. i have the AT-1 stock with a scout action in it presently and found that lop was too short even when fully extended. Made some spacers to add in another 3/4” and that made it useable for me.
a suppressor might make your groups smaller, larger, or have no affect at all. Only way to find out is to try it out and record data. Barrel harmonics are real and vary between every rifle. ammo weight/speed also play into the harmonics as well. This is why testing different ammo lots and brands is so often discussed in rimfire. Once you find your magic combo buy as much of that lot as you can afford.
in my opinion the only real competition in this bolt action price bracket is the tikka T1x . I really like mine once i put a ctr buttpad on it for more lop and the optional vertical grip, makes the factory stock useable. I really think Tikka/sako got the barrel profile about perfect for the 20” rifle . Spare mags are a bit pricey but go on sale fairly often At berettas website.
KRG is also making the bravo chassis for both of these rifles.
Bergara is also in your upper price range. More than the Tikka, but you get a 40x clone design which allows the use of any Remington SC aftermarket stock or trigger. It all depends on how deep you want to get into it. If you go with CZ, I'd stay with any of the varmint barrels (varmint, pro varmint, MTR, or VPT. MTR is the only one that gets you a match chamber, VPT gets you a Manners stock which are really great. Then there is the old adage, buy once, cry once. A Cooper, Anschutz 54, or Vudoo would fit that bill (2x-4x the price). Good luck in you rimfire journey, it's a blast!
The funny thing is that is how most of us started out. I just wanted a budget 22 to plink with. Well one thing lead to another and now I own more rimfire rifles than centerfire. The good thing with the pro varmint is it is a very capable rifle right out of the box using the factory trigger and stock. If you do find that you enjoy shooting rimfire a lot more than you thought you would then there are a ton of upgrades out ther for the CZ as well.
I think for the first-time owner, the CZ ProVarmint is your best choice. A good shooter, threaded so you can add a suppressor later, and lots of aftermarket stuff you can change out, if you want to down the road. It's a very good price to performance ratio with lots of options if you want to lighten your trigger, change out the stock, change out the barrel, etc. My two-cents.
Good luck!
You also might want to visit Rimfirecentral, CZ forum. There are lots of discussions on CZ rifles, and many for the 457. Check it out...
Any firsthand experience with the 457 Varmint Precision Chassis? I'm in the market for a NRL22 rifle. Coming from a Savage and a customized 10/22. Both were a nightmare when it came to action/stock interface and my PRS rifle is in an MPA so I'm pretty set on going to a chassis.
Just looking at the specs, here are my impressions: Nice long forend. Too bad they didn't just machine an arca rail into it. Not too bad of an upgrade with the mlok. MDT weights could be added too. I would probably swap out the stock for an XLR. Luthar=cheap IMO. Wish there was a 20" .920 barrel option but that could also be upgraded later on. If it shoots well with my suppressor that could help balance out the 16.5.
Just looking at the specs, here are my impressions: Nice long forend. Too bad they didn't just machine an arca rail into it. Not too bad of an upgrade with the mlok. MDT weights could be added too. I would probably swap out the stock for an XLR. Luthar=cheap IMO. Wish there was a 20" .920 barrel option but that could also be upgraded later on. If it shoots well with my suppressor that could help balance out the 16.5.
Crazy-Chris, I would consider buying the 457 Scout if you are going to upgrade the stock and barrel. It would be a cheaper option, as all of the 457 receivers are the same.
Hey guys-I'm new here to this forum, have been reading a lot of this thread already, and pretty new to rimfire as well (come from precision air rifles). I just went ahead and pulled the trigger on a 457 Varmint MTR yesterday and have been working on setting up the transfer to a local FFL. Super excited to start playing with the gun, and looking for something that will let me reach out beyond 100 yards.
From my background, I'm very used to using a light, crisp, 2 stage trigger setup so I'm not sure how I'll like the CZ 457 trigger-but am willing to work with it. My RAW right now is set to about 6-8 oz for the trigger weight (second stage weight), so I'm looking for instructions on how to lighten up the 457 trigger as one of my first mods. I bought my daughter a 452 scout and the trigger was flat out awful compared to what I'm used to using. I was planning to buy a 455 at some point, so I picked up a 'Mr Fly' two stage trigger-which is still sitting in its box (will look to sell it). Does anyone make an excellent two stage trigger to drop into a CZ 457 (think Anschutz trigger)?
I purchased a Area 419 rail and bolt to mount my scope to get me up and running. I'll likely look at a chassis as well. What are all the options to look at for a chassis? I want an adjustable LOP (down to ~12.5" on the short end), adjustable comb, vertical pistol grip. I saw the KRG Bravo chassis and I like it overall-just not thrilled about the apparent poor front to rear half mismatch that appears to be visible where the parts join each other-but I could get over that. I'll likely try the KRG as a first chassis. What other chassis options are there that I should take a serious look at?
What ammo should I get to start out? I've seen in the thread SK Match, Standard Plus and I'm also looking to try Eley Match, Lapua Center-X ammo. Was thinking about trying something like RWS R50 or something. What else should I try?
Lastly, 'head spacing' is a new concept for me-what is that and how do I check it? Does it change based on the ammo I'm shooting?
Sorry, I have lots more questions, but will stop there now.
Thanks for all your insight and experience guys-I look forward to learning from you.
Sean
From my background, I'm very used to using a light, crisp, 2 stage trigger setup so I'm not sure how I'll like the CZ 457 trigger-but am willing to work with it. My RAW right now is set to about 6-8 oz for the trigger weight (second stage weight), so I'm looking for instructions on how to lighten up the 457 trigger as one of my first mods. I bought my daughter a 452 scout and the trigger was flat out awful compared to what I'm used to using. I was planning to buy a 455 at some point, so I picked up a 'Mr Fly' two stage trigger-which is still sitting in its box (will look to sell it). Does anyone make an excellent two stage trigger to drop into a CZ 457 (think Anschutz trigger)?
I purchased a Area 419 rail and bolt to mount my scope to get me up and running. I'll likely look at a chassis as well. What are all the options to look at for a chassis? I want an adjustable LOP (down to ~12.5" on the short end), adjustable comb, vertical pistol grip. I saw the KRG Bravo chassis and I like it overall-just not thrilled about the apparent poor front to rear half mismatch that appears to be visible where the parts join each other-but I could get over that. I'll likely try the KRG as a first chassis. What other chassis options are there that I should take a serious look at?
What ammo should I get to start out? I've seen in the thread SK Match, Standard Plus and I'm also looking to try Eley Match, Lapua Center-X ammo. Was thinking about trying something like RWS R50 or something. What else should I try?
Lastly, 'head spacing' is a new concept for me-what is that and how do I check it? Does it change based on the ammo I'm shooting?
Sorry, I have lots more questions, but will stop there now.
Thanks for all your insight and experience guys-I look forward to learning from you.
Sean
MDT makes a nice chassis for the 457 - https://mdttac.com/us_en/lss-rimfire-chassis-system.html
Be aware that $399 is not for a complete chassis. From the webpage...
"To install this chassis on your rifle, here are some additional items you will need to purchase:
- Any AR-15 buttstock or our Skeleton Carbine Stock. For fixed buttstocks, you will need the fixed stock adapter.
- A buffer tube for your buttstock (both mil-spec and commercial work with our chassis)
- An AR-15 pistol grip. Ideally without a beavertail, or with a soft (bendable) beavertail"
The other chassis that Google found was the Master Piece Arms - https://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-ba-cz-455-457-chassis/
Cool thing about that one is you can get it as a folding stock chassis. I am doing the same research, but have no experience with this one either.
Happy shooting
SS
Thanks for the information-both of those stock options look really nice. I think I prefer the masterpiece arms version a bit more to the other one. I may try the Bravo first, and then decide whether I want to move on from there. Since I hope to have my son get into it with me, I can also buy him an action and let him have the Bravo (if he likes it) and I can upgrade to the MPA chassis. Hmmm....
The Bravo is a really nice chassis for not a lot of $. I have one on my Vudoo, very adjustable, and the the full length aluminum rail is machined perfectly so you won't need to pillar or bed the action. I'd buy the yo-Dave trigger spring kit or buy one at McMaster Carr or eBay. You can then easily get your weight down to 8 oz. or less. The stock trigger is very adjustable and I have mine set up as a single stage with zero creep. It's nearly as good as the Trigger Tech Diamond ($295) on my Vudoo. Start out with some SK Std.+ or even some Norma Tac 22 or Geco to get some rounds down range. These barrels are factory lapped so you really don't need a lot of break in. You might be surprised how well it shots with those brands. Save you Center X, and R-50 for competition. On my MTR, the Norma shoots as good as CX at 100 yds., but not a good at 50. It doesn't make a lot of sense, but that's what I've found with my barrel.
Thanks for the information. I may have accidentally hit 'complete order' while looking at the Bravo chassis on the KRG website (sorry honey-I accidentally clicked the button
!). Now my wife is telling me to take my 16 year old son somewhere to get him out of the house-I just so happened to see that Fleet Farm actually carries SK Std+ soooo.....
Sean
!). Now my wife is telling me to take my 16 year old son somewhere to get him out of the house-I just so happened to see that Fleet Farm actually carries SK Std+ soooo..... Sean
They had plenty of the SK Std+ at Fleet Farm, and on "clearance" too for $6.39/box of 50. I bought 8 boxes, but could have bought 30 boxes if I wanted...
Same at the one near me.
Oryx is the most cost effective chassis out there besides the one you bought. https://oryxchassis.com/us/oryx-bolt-action-rifle-chassis.html
Well, I received my CZ457 MTR yesterday along with my Area 419 rail and bolt knob. I'm pleased with the gun so far-it seems to shoot pretty well right off the bat (photos below). I can't seem to get the factory bolt knob off to install the 419 knob, put I'm in no real rush to do that either. My KRG Bravo chassis should be delivered this morning-which I'm glad about because the MTR stock seems to be about 1" longer than I'd prefer.
Question: Is there someone I could contact to send my MTR stock to and have it shortened, and have the comb cut to install an height adjustment onto it? I would like the stock a lot better if I could modify it in those two ways (however, it's not really needed as I'll be putting it into the Bravo chassis in a few hours). I would want it to be an excellent modification job if I proceeded with it.
Here are a few pics of the first couple of five-shot groups at 50 yards using SK Std+ (I now have a total of 50 rounds through the gun).
I'll take a photo of the gun after its installed in the Bravo, later today.
Sean
Question: Is there someone I could contact to send my MTR stock to and have it shortened, and have the comb cut to install an height adjustment onto it? I would like the stock a lot better if I could modify it in those two ways (however, it's not really needed as I'll be putting it into the Bravo chassis in a few hours). I would want it to be an excellent modification job if I proceeded with it.
Here are a few pics of the first couple of five-shot groups at 50 yards using SK Std+ (I now have a total of 50 rounds through the gun).
I'll take a photo of the gun after its installed in the Bravo, later today.
Sean
Wrap some some leather around your bolt knob and use vise grips or channel locks, I have taken several off like that with no damage to them. Maybe use a heat gun if it is that tight to weaken the rock set.
I've used BScar 25 MOA rails on all three of my 457s - American, MTR, & VPT - and wouldn't trade them for anything else I've seen. The Area 419 is so tall that guys with high-comb MTRs are wanting to know how to install an adjustable cheekpiece (see smh77's post above). I initially had an Athlon Cronus on my MTR, and with it in a set of Seekins low rings on my BScar rail, I had excellent cheekweld on the MTR stock. Last time I checked, his rails were selling for $35 shipped.
To be honest, in my case (due to an eye condition), the higher scope mount works perfect for me and it seems to work pretty much spot on. I'm looking for the adjustable comb because I have it on all my guns and love to perfectly fine tune and exact position-so while the MTR stock with the Area 419 rail works very well for me, it can always be tweaked to get slightly better.
But your point (Dennis) is likely correct about most others (I'm just a bad example). Most other combs are simply way to low for my eye to align to (like a scout stock, for example).
Question for you guys: I have a YoDave spring set for my daughter's CZ452 Scout, that I never installed for her. Are those the same springs for the CZ457? Can I just replace the spring in the trigger of the 457 with one of them from the yoDave kit I have from her Scout to get my weight down?
I emailed YoDave to ask but haven't heard back yet...
I emailed YoDave to ask but haven't heard back yet...
smh77 - Had no intention of making fun of you when I mentioned your post about the comb on your MTR stock - please accept my apologies if it came across like that. Hope you find the KRG chassis perfect for your application.
As far as the 457 trigger goes, if you look up lefty222's trigger diagram over on RFC, and adjust to back-off the sear engagement a bit, I'd expect you to be able to get the trigger break down to around 1lb with safety. All three of mine were done that way, with no other modifications, and have breaks from just under a pound to just over, with no creep. If you need or want to go lighter, then the Yo Dave spring is one way to go - there are others selling lighter springs also.
As far as the 457 trigger goes, if you look up lefty222's trigger diagram over on RFC, and adjust to back-off the sear engagement a bit, I'd expect you to be able to get the trigger break down to around 1lb with safety. All three of mine were done that way, with no other modifications, and have breaks from just under a pound to just over, with no creep. If you need or want to go lighter, then the Yo Dave spring is one way to go - there are others selling lighter springs also.
Flatland1, I couldn't get mine below 2.25# with the factory adjustments. Hopefully, he got one of the good ones. If not, it's only a spring away from a crisp 8 oz. trigger.
No worries whatsoever-but thanks for being thoughtful anyway. The courtesy is certainly appreciated a lot. I'm a bit of an 'odd duck' in that my right eye will only elevate so far due to an oblique eye muscle disorder (called Brown's Syndrome). I've learned to adjust to it fine (and of all the things that one could have go wrong in life, this is pretty minor). But when shooting (archery or rifles) I end up tilting my head back so that I'm looking 'down my nose' slightly. It's not that big of a deal, really, and I've been used to it for years (I actually didn't know I had that condition until my early 30's...).
Thanks for the tip on the trigger. I'm going to play with the adjustments shortly as I take the action out of the MTR stock and put it into the Bravo chassis. I like the Bravo chassis so far-even though I'm normally not a fan of plastic. I really like that I'm supporting a couple guys from the military who went in together to 'make a better mousetrap', if you will. I'll let you know how it all turns out and will post photos once I'm all dialed in...
Sean
Sean, if you aren't happy with the trigger pull weight after you adjust it on the stock trigger, message me with your address and I'll send you an extra spring I picked up. It's about the same size (wire size, id, od, etc.. but it's longer in length, so you would need to snip it off at about 1/2" or 5/8". That will get you down to around 7-9 ozs. You could also just snip off a little of the stock spring but I wanted to retain the stock spring in case I ever wanted to put it back to stock. It's a little tricky to install, but if you have average skills you can do it. I'd be glad to help a fellow Hide member out!
Thanks for the offer. I just playwd around with it for quite a while, and got it down to about 17-18 ounces. I had it lower, but it felt unsafe, so I went back up. The reason for feeling unsafe is because the real adjustments are being made with the sear engagement-which I don’t prefer. I’ll try it out for a bit like it is, and let you know.
I really prefer 2 stage triggers so I can move the trigger blade easily to the wall before applying pressure and having it go off. I have to admit: there’s very little creep right now-but I can tell it feels like its ‘on edge’-but should be reliable.
I really prefer 2 stage triggers so I can move the trigger blade easily to the wall before applying pressure and having it go off. I have to admit: there’s very little creep right now-but I can tell it feels like its ‘on edge’-but should be reliable.
That’s the scope from my Air Rifle: a Hawke Sidewinder FFP 6-24x56mm. Great scope.
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smh77 - 1st CZ 22RF rifle I'd ever bought was a 457 American. Stock has some nice grain and is pretty attractive IMHO. Loved the way the rifle cycled and the trigger after I adjusted it, but accuracy was lousy. I read about someone online who'd re-barreled his CZ by doing the machine work on the tenon & chambering it, but instead of cutting those butt-ugly grub screw seats, he glued it into the receiver with LocTite #609. I decided to buy a Shilen Ratchet Rifled select match blank, re-contour it a bit, cut the tenon, chamber it with my EPS reamer, then cut the extractor slots and glue it in. Worked like a charm, and that rifle shoots very well now. It was a relatively simple project, once I'd decided to go the glue-in route - simple enough that I felt it would be worth it to re-barrel my 457 MTR, even though it was shooting well with pretty decent accuracy. Not too long after doing that bbl job, I bought a 457 VPT w/24" threaded bbl. After a few hundred rounds, this VPT bbl shot OK at 50yds, but more or less fell apart at 100-200yds. I really liked the Manners stock, and wasn't crazy about shooting the nice MTR stock in matches and dinging up its nice stock - so I pulled the Shilen-bbl'd MTR action out of its walnut stock and put it into the VPT's Manners. Turned out well - sort of the best of both worlds, having the custom bbl'd MTR action in the Manners stock. But I didn't care for the polished/chromed trigger of the MTR in that GAP camo stock, so pulled both actions out of their respective stocks, swapped the trigger assemblies, then put the MTR action with the matte black VPT trigger back into the Manners stock. It turned out that when I put the VPT trigger in the MTR action, I was easily able to get it adjusted down to well under 1lb, so it was a win-win situation. I put the CZ match bbl that I'd pulled out of the MTR action into the VPT action in the MTR stock, and it shot at least as well as it had in the MTR action. Long story short - I feel it was worth the effort of swapping everystuff around, as I wound up with two rifles that shoot pretty darned good, and now I can use the MTR action in that tough Manners stock in a match should I decide to give it a try instead of shooting one of my V-22s. I wound up with an Athlon Midas TAC 6-24x50 on this rifle, and have been very pleased with it.
Nice, I like the big focus wheel, I bet that makes it easy to fine tune the parallax adjustment. A lot of our airgun members use Hawke. Your MTR looks good in the Bravo stock. How was the fitment with the 457 receiver, guessing nice and tight.
The receiver went into the Bravo fine. It was a bit looser than expected when I was just installing the screws to finger tight. I then bumped the action backwards, per the instructions and used the short end of the Allen wrench to put a little bit of torque on them. I tightened the front screw first, then the rear (per the instructions). It said to torque both to 65 in-lbs; I stopped at 45 in-lbs. When I was removing the two action screws from the MTR stock, the screws were nearly finger tight-very minimal torque on them. That's kind of how things are in the airgun world too.
While torquing the rear action screw into the Bravo chassis, it turned a bit more than I anticipated-so maybe that was pulling the action down into the chassis, creating a nice tight fit (not sure).
Question: is 'YoDave' located out of Canada? I placed an order for the spring, and some cleaning tools as well but my credit card flagged the transaction as 'potential fraud' and said it was for 'Arts, crafts, and supplies' out of Canada. They were asking me to confirm I tried to place the order. The date and amount of my order were correct-I just didn't know that the owner was in Canada. Please advise.
Nevermind-I just saw on their 'shipping' tab that they ship air mail from Canada so I've answered my own question...
All done (for now). Here are some better photos of my setup (not sure which I like best). Enjoy.
Last couple photos (sorry for all the images-hope this is ok?):
I feel like I'm looking at Gun Porn . I'll vote for no. 3
. I'll vote for no. 3 For those wanting to see some longer range groups by the CZ 457 MTR, I braved the 18 mph wind this afternoon to put some lead down the barrel. Believe me when I say it was windy! And it wasn't constant either, making it hard to shoot consistent groups.
Nonetheless, I shot several groups at 50, 75, and 100 yards (5 shot groups, all with SK STD+). I show the whole group below, plus (in several instances) what the group would have been without a flyer. In several of the groups, you can see a clear lateral stringing due to the left-right wind. On top of that, the wind was sometimes strongly at my back as well, leading to a little bit of vertical stringing also.
Photos are attached. They are labeled as to the distance. My best group at 100yards was in the neighborhood of 0.88" for 4 shots. The 5th shot I had slightly changed my point of aim to the left, anticipating a slightly lesser wind (or so I thought) and it put the shot to the left, opening up the group to 1.52".
At 75 yards, I had one group at 0.81" for 5 shots where you can clearly see the lateral stringing from the cross wind. The main group was running about 0.34" for 3 of the shots.
At 50 yards, the very first group I shot was mind blowing: I stacked 4 shots in the exact same hole (0.07" c-t-c), before the 5th shot opened up the group a bit to 0.31".
I tried Eley Club and Eley Target: gave up on both very quickly (after 10 rounds on the Target, and 5 rounds on the club-both at 50 yards).
I am looking forward to shooting at 75 and 100 yards under calm conditions to see how well I can get it to shoot.
I now have a total of about 135 rounds through the gun so far, after today's session.
(Sorry, I'll have to resize my photos if I'm to post them-apparently they're too large...)
Nonetheless, I shot several groups at 50, 75, and 100 yards (5 shot groups, all with SK STD+). I show the whole group below, plus (in several instances) what the group would have been without a flyer. In several of the groups, you can see a clear lateral stringing due to the left-right wind. On top of that, the wind was sometimes strongly at my back as well, leading to a little bit of vertical stringing also.
Photos are attached. They are labeled as to the distance. My best group at 100yards was in the neighborhood of 0.88" for 4 shots. The 5th shot I had slightly changed my point of aim to the left, anticipating a slightly lesser wind (or so I thought) and it put the shot to the left, opening up the group to 1.52".
At 75 yards, I had one group at 0.81" for 5 shots where you can clearly see the lateral stringing from the cross wind. The main group was running about 0.34" for 3 of the shots.
At 50 yards, the very first group I shot was mind blowing: I stacked 4 shots in the exact same hole (0.07" c-t-c), before the 5th shot opened up the group a bit to 0.31".
I tried Eley Club and Eley Target: gave up on both very quickly (after 10 rounds on the Target, and 5 rounds on the club-both at 50 yards).
I am looking forward to shooting at 75 and 100 yards under calm conditions to see how well I can get it to shoot.
I now have a total of about 135 rounds through the gun so far, after today's session.
(Sorry, I'll have to resize my photos if I'm to post them-apparently they're too large...)
I was initially frustrated when trying to post photos due to the fact that I had the photo quality set too high on my camera. Photo files that had contained 2-3mb of data were reduced in size down to 750-850kb by backing of this setting in the camera's menu. Actual physical dimensions of the photos were the same, they just contained less data.
The other option is to use a image hosting site like Photobucket, imgbb (https://imgbb.com/), etc. You upload the photos there and then link them her using BBCode.
{IMG] link to the image from the website{/IMG]
You will notice I used left squiggle brackets (braces) "{" because if I did it correctly you wouldnt see the code. Replace the squiggle brackets with regular brackets [
SS
Try Smugmug for paid hosting. I pay about 72.00 per year and post photos from their servers. Multiple choices as to your linked postings and the photos will show up next year and the year after..... None of the "Photo not available" that plagues older posts with photos. I have posts 13+ years old that still show my photos I posted in threads. If you have a business it's great as you can post full screen HQ photos - print quality.
https://imgur.com/ free and easy to use
