- Thread starter A-Rob
- Start date
Well ain't that purty.......
I think I’m in love.
How much?
Thank you
From what i can find right now, it looks like it will be priced around 1100€ in Europe, so expect something like 1200$.
I can't see it making it at the same cost as a Manners stocked rifle.... Perhaps the stock is a higher quality than it appears in the photos. At the same cost as the AT Varmint yea....that would be great.
Just my .02.....
Just my .02.....
For those of you running suppressed, are your cans shouldering up the barrel all the way?
Looking at the TBAC .22 LR thread specs, it calls for 0.400 overall thread length.
I have two new CZ457 16" Varmint Precision Trainers, both are measuring 0.458 - 0.457 overall thread length. Running SilcenerCo Sparrow 22's, I have about a 0.05 gap between the back of the can and the barrel shoulder. The Sparrows come with a 0.25 spacer to run on the longer 0.60 standard centerfire threads, but that 0.25 spacer seems way excessive (and ugly) to close the 0.05 gap.
Here is what the gap looks like. The can is snugged up on the threads tight. Both 457's have a similar gap, and I've tried it with differnt cans. Run it? Shim it?
Looking at the TBAC .22 LR thread specs, it calls for 0.400 overall thread length.
I have two new CZ457 16" Varmint Precision Trainers, both are measuring 0.458 - 0.457 overall thread length. Running SilcenerCo Sparrow 22's, I have about a 0.05 gap between the back of the can and the barrel shoulder. The Sparrows come with a 0.25 spacer to run on the longer 0.60 standard centerfire threads, but that 0.25 spacer seems way excessive (and ugly) to close the 0.05 gap.
Here is what the gap looks like. The can is snugged up on the threads tight. Both 457's have a similar gap, and I've tried it with differnt cans. Run it? Shim it?
Thanks for the info. Do your group sizes seem unaffected?
No, actually my T1x's shoot better with the Sparrow.
Do you have those for the CZ? What kind of groups are you getting?
rim-star, what is the total thickness of the shims in yours? Is it possible to get some photos of your work? I know it's pretty easy to take the bolt apart. Thanks if you can.
rim-star, another question, I been looking at this 457 bolt design and it appears that if you take up all the gap with shims you won't have enough room to compress the spring to release pressure off the pin that holds the bolt together. I measured mine with a feeler gauge and mine only has .006" clearance. I guess if it is off .002-.003" then a person might be ok. If I bought the shims from McMaster-Carr I'd just get the .001" thick 5-pack.
Like I said, I'd like to see some photos of your work to see how it's done. In the meantime, I'm going to look for some barrel shims.
Like I said, I'd like to see some photos of your work to see how it's done. In the meantime, I'm going to look for some barrel shims.
KOD I have 2 - .003" in mine now .043" headspace, that's measured with plasti-gauge, so it may not be super accurate but its very close. I have not had any problems with bolt disassembly with the shims installed. The next time I have my bolt apart I will take photos and send them to you here. Keep in mind you have to take a very small amout off the diameter of the shim, that might be a task with .001" probably can be done though.
I have to use a .080” precision shim for my 455 and 457 so that my rimfire cans will properly index off the shoulder. CZ thread length is either 450” or .480” IIRC. As you have found out from the drawing, most suppressors spec a .400” thread length.
KOD
yes I have 2 of them. I have one I bought 22in. Chamber is big. A bullet falls right to the rim turn it upside down and it falls out. I was less than enthusiastic. The reciever to barrel fit was as tight as it could get with out freezing and heating. I put it together and grabbed sk tifle match. Bug holes. No kidding this barrel with sk rifle match it likes and center x it likes shoots every bit as good as my bergara.
Next barrel was an area 419 barrel I bought here off the hide from a member. 18.5 with hell fire break. Without the break it shoots ok shoots a good many Ammos decent. Out shot my kidd for consistency. Put the comp on and wow. I was floored. Thing shot as good as my other bartlein. Again big chamber. Put the comp on other guns did not make as much difference as it did on this gun.
My 3rd bartlein a 23in fluted stainless will be here Friday
yes I have 2 of them. I have one I bought 22in. Chamber is big. A bullet falls right to the rim turn it upside down and it falls out. I was less than enthusiastic. The reciever to barrel fit was as tight as it could get with out freezing and heating. I put it together and grabbed sk tifle match. Bug holes. No kidding this barrel with sk rifle match it likes and center x it likes shoots every bit as good as my bergara.
Next barrel was an area 419 barrel I bought here off the hide from a member. 18.5 with hell fire break. Without the break it shoots ok shoots a good many Ammos decent. Out shot my kidd for consistency. Put the comp on and wow. I was floored. Thing shot as good as my other bartlein. Again big chamber. Put the comp on other guns did not make as much difference as it did on this gun.
My 3rd bartlein a 23in fluted stainless will be here Friday
Aa fir the new cz, looks ugly to me. They should have put that barreled action into a manners. They got it right except that. Regardless ar this point a stock 457 around 450, a new barrel if it needs it 400ish, a bravo 370. That's 1220 for a custom barreled gun in a comfortable stock with aluminum bedding block.
Cz doing us well however. A manners version, an adjustable stock version, a chassis version....which very nice. Not crazy about the luth but the chassis is nice. Fully adjustable triggers, 60 degree bolt lift, perfect feeding and ejection, tight bore barrels, light years better barrels than the 455s, even a match chamber option. They could have nkt made as many and combined a few but nice to have options. I like them all.
Do you remember where you picked up that shim from? I’d feel a lot better about it mating up against the barrel. The way the Sparrow is designed, I’m pretty sure the muzzle is smashing into the little o-ring in there.
Just took my new 457 20" Varmint to the range for the first time. Ran 150 CCI Standard through it at a steel gong then 2 ea groups of 10 of Center X, SK Rifle Match and Eley Club and CCI Standard. Best group was Center X at ~ 1.6 with CCI worst at about 3". 100 yards. Had a 20 mph head wind from 11:30 to about 1. Not really sure if the wind lets me have any idea of potential but I did not leave the range with a smile on my face. KRG chassis with a bipod and a rear bag.
Well, I’m tempting the fates. When I got my CZ I seemed to have won the barrel lottery. I got the 457 pro Varmint and it simply shoots amazing with anything Lapua/SK. It maintains under 3/8” groups at 50 yards. It didn’t however like Eley ammo which is what I prefer. This rifle is being used by my 11 yo son for his competition rifle now. We put it in an MPA chassis which lightened it up some. I just ordered a Proof Research carbon fiber barrel to lighten it up even more. I hope the new barrel will shoot as well as the factory barrel did. I guess I will know soon enough. Stay tuned.
Here is something that can help. Self explanatory. But still ask questions if needed.
What thread protector is that?
Stock/Factory plastic version. Never seen a need to buy a replacement.
Hi Gentlemen, I understand that this question is subjective but I'm new to .22lr and trying to decide on what CZ rifle to purchase. Any ideas on what rifle would be a better choice for accuracy? MTR or At-one? Thanks for your help.
Also, is the MTR a benchrest only rifle and it's use limited?
Also, is the MTR a benchrest only rifle and it's use limited?
Last edited:
mtr has a “match” chamber and theoretically should be more accurate than the At-one
it’s a heavy gun (have an MTR) but I still shoot it in the field.
The Varmint MTR is - as far as I know - currently the only 457 that CZ is using the barrel with the tighter 'match' chamber on. Mine shot pretty darned good right out of the box, but I probably wouldn't have tried to use it in a 22RF BR match, unless it was in a factory class, and even then, there's a pretty good chance that there are a good number of Anschutz owners who'd have had an advantage over the MTR. Not knocking the rifle, just stating the facts as they apply to mine.
Whether you could use a MTR for other than BR shooting depends on how well the stock fits you. I shot mine a lot prone & off the bench with a bipod & rear bag, and believe the stock is well-suited for that. It could also be shot offhand, and if you're not worried about dinging up the nice wood most of them come with, it could be shot off a barricade easily. I had no problem adjusting the trigger on mine down to 1lb, and with a BScar 25 MOA scope rail and an Athlon Cronus in TPS TSR 34mm low rings, I got a good cheek weld w/o the need for a stock pack.
I don't have either but the MTR "should" give better accuracy with the match barrel it has.
Question....
I disassembled the bolt on my 457 to replace the knob, gave it a good cleaning, then reassembled. Every once in a while since then the bolt won’t cock. Only happens on the first round of a new magazine and it only happens occasionally. I’m sure it had something to do with the way I reassembled it but before I go taking it apart and putting it back together again I wanted to see if anyone might know the specifics of what could be causing it.
I disassembled the bolt on my 457 to replace the knob, gave it a good cleaning, then reassembled. Every once in a while since then the bolt won’t cock. Only happens on the first round of a new magazine and it only happens occasionally. I’m sure it had something to do with the way I reassembled it but before I go taking it apart and putting it back together again I wanted to see if anyone might know the specifics of what could be causing it.
Trigger on the edge of being to low has been the only reason I have experienced your issue. Easy fix on the 457 trigger.
That could be possible, I have the Yo Dave spring I stalled and it breaks at about 14oz. Not super light but not heavy either.
It will cycle properly without a mag and with an empty mag. I can’t say it will every time because the problem seems to be intermittent.
when it first started it was pretty frequent and right after I reassembled the bolt. It became more and more infrequent as time went on so I figured it was possible a part that wasn’t seated quite right and was working itself back into place. It’s still happening once or twice per trip to the range so maybe once every 10-15 reloads. I’ve only noticed it happening on the first round after loading a new magazine.
It will cycle properly without a mag and with an empty mag. I can’t say it will every time because the problem seems to be intermittent.
when it first started it was pretty frequent and right after I reassembled the bolt. It became more and more infrequent as time went on so I figured it was possible a part that wasn’t seated quite right and was working itself back into place. It’s still happening once or twice per trip to the range so maybe once every 10-15 reloads. I’ve only noticed it happening on the first round after loading a new magazine.
You should be fine with the trigger at 14 ozs. Mine is set at 7-8 ozs. and it's ok (no slam fires or premature firing). Odd that it's happening on the first round of a new mag. The bolt is typically open when you seat a new loaded magazine in, when you engage the bolt lugs as you lower the handle is the firing pin indicator showing that it's cocked or not on that first round?
the times that it doesn’t fire the indicator pin is flush with the back of the bolt. I can see the red but it doesn’t protrude out the back like it does when it’s in proper battery...Almost like it’s half cocked. I don’t realize it’s not right until I pull the trigger and it’s stiff. At that point I raise the knob straight up and drop it straight back down and that does the trick.
If it's working most of the time, I'd say you assembled the bolt correctly. It must be something else happening. Hopefully, someone else with more knowledge will jump in and help you out. You might want to ask over on RFC, there is a lot of CZ folks over there that know the CZ's inside out.
Yeah, not that big of a deal really. I just don’t want it to happen in a match where I’m in a timed stage. That’s the only downside. Bench and prone matches aren’t an issue.
mill probably tinker with the trigger a little and see if that does anything.
mill probably tinker with the trigger a little and see if that does anything.
I don't see why it's a benchrest only rifle. If your'e going to compete maybe not the best choice. At-one has adjustability, but i've handled the MTR and it's SOLID.
i really don't think there's going to be an accuracy difference. They also launched 3 different 457's model just recently. Have you seen those?
Don't forget you can always aftermarket swap say an MDT chassis onto the 457
IF they switch rifles for a few matches I wonder if the same will hold true. Rifle vs Shooter...?
B. Classes
1. The Base class is intended to be budget oriented. It is also intended to be a class to allow an introduction to this fantastic shooting discipline. It is not intended to be a place for veteran shooters to remain, however, the NRL22 will not regulate that. Any rifle system that comes in under a combined MSRP of $1050 shall be eligible to compete in Base class. This combined MSRP price is for the rifle and scope only. It excludes scope rings and bases, bipods, suppressors, data card holders, magazines, spare magazine holders, auto bolt releases, aftermarket triggers and extended magazine releases. Factory barrels may be threaded to accept a suppressor. Adjustments to the stock to get proper cheek weld, trigger jobs, and bedding of the stock are also allowed. Any rifles and scopes that are out of current production cannot be utilized as the MSRP is not available to check. Also, manufacturers may change the MSRP of their products from time to time. Neither price changes nor discontinuations of products are the fault of the NRL22. At sign in, the Match Director shall inspect the rifle and ensure that the combined MSRP comes in under $1050. If it goes over, the shooter shall compete in the open class. This determination and interpretation of the Base class rules are solely decided by the local Match Directors for their own clubs. Any emails or correspondence regarding Base class rules to NRL22 staff will be replied to please check with your local match director. For the National Championship however, these rules will be followed to the letter. There will be a gunsmith present at the NRL22 National Championship for Base class rifle inspections. A list of popular rifle and scopes MSRPs will be included in the monthly course of fire.
Product NameCZ 457 Varmint AT-ONE®, 24"
SKU02366
Firearm TypeRifle
PurposeHunting
MSRP$660.00
Chambering.22 LR
1. The Base class is intended to be budget oriented. It is also intended to be a class to allow an introduction to this fantastic shooting discipline. It is not intended to be a place for veteran shooters to remain, however, the NRL22 will not regulate that. Any rifle system that comes in under a combined MSRP of $1050 shall be eligible to compete in Base class. This combined MSRP price is for the rifle and scope only. It excludes scope rings and bases, bipods, suppressors, data card holders, magazines, spare magazine holders, auto bolt releases, aftermarket triggers and extended magazine releases. Factory barrels may be threaded to accept a suppressor. Adjustments to the stock to get proper cheek weld, trigger jobs, and bedding of the stock are also allowed. Any rifles and scopes that are out of current production cannot be utilized as the MSRP is not available to check. Also, manufacturers may change the MSRP of their products from time to time. Neither price changes nor discontinuations of products are the fault of the NRL22. At sign in, the Match Director shall inspect the rifle and ensure that the combined MSRP comes in under $1050. If it goes over, the shooter shall compete in the open class. This determination and interpretation of the Base class rules are solely decided by the local Match Directors for their own clubs. Any emails or correspondence regarding Base class rules to NRL22 staff will be replied to please check with your local match director. For the National Championship however, these rules will be followed to the letter. There will be a gunsmith present at the NRL22 National Championship for Base class rifle inspections. A list of popular rifle and scopes MSRPs will be included in the monthly course of fire.
Product NameCZ 457 Varmint AT-ONE®, 24"
SKU02366
Firearm TypeRifle
PurposeHunting
MSRP$660.00
Chambering.22 LR
Is there any reason not to get the 457 ProVarmint suppressor ready with the 16.5" barrel. This will be my first rimfire rifle and I'm currently weighing my options. Mostly going to be for plinking suppressed.
Think ahead a bit. Plinking can turn into wanting to shoot targets, and shooting targets can turn into shooting postal matches or actual matches if you are close to a range that has them. It's an expensive investment, so just a suggestion for your first rifle. It's a great start but can lead you to wanting to do more with the rifle. I suggest you read up on some of the commentary on accuracy with a suppressor. Some feel like their data show a rifle can be less accurate with the can on, so just be aware of that potential. I think the ProVarmint comes threaded, so your only choice would be to shoot without a suppressor, or to add a suppressor. It really depends if you stay in the plinking category, or want to move up to matches with targets.
Good luck!
My PV shoots 3/4 MOA at 100yd with CCI SV suppressed. Suppressor is an AAC Element 2.
Well I also don't want to spend thousands on a match rifle. Realistically I want to stay around 500-600. I'd go up to 1000 if there was a huge improvement to be had. I do care greatly about accuracy, but from what I've been reading this is one of the better choices. Really the only reason I'm getting a bolt 22 is to suppress it at this point. I could always just run it with the flash hider or the thread protector.
What other rifles should I be considering?
