Just saw on Instagram that there are solid top Mausingfield’s in process!
It goes back the the solid rail and looks a lot cleaner.Pardon my ignorance but what is so special about the solid top Mausingfield's?
I think I'm gonna have to order an Archimedes. Ya know I've just got these extra barrels laying around.......
Samewish I had done the Xylo preorder...
x150,000Same
Spoke to Justin today at ARC while ordering my Archimedes action (will start life with a 22x47Lapua barrel I picked recently).
I was also able to order the larger grips for my Xylo. I just checked and they are on the website now. He said that they are the same width but extend further back....I don't know if that will give me the feel I'm looking for, but I'm interested to try them. They also have unshaped grip blanks that just have the milling done on the inside for the chassis - you shape them yourself....that might be interesting.
I can't wait to start playing with this Archimedes action!!!
I know this is a reply to a post that's a few weeks old but I am glad Cascade Hemi pointed this out. The screws caused more than one argument. I personally don't value the ability to use one tool for all of the adjustments, not as much as others do anyway, but now that Cascade Hemi weighed in with kind words, I'm happy that the sensible people, Justin and Keith, prevailed, this time.Yes, SPR bugnut Bartlein in 223 Remington.
There is a lot of adjustment everywhere, I'm probably at the minimum for much of it. I need to reset my scope because it is too far back now.
I didn't pre order, I ordered in the middle of January and paid full retail.
The Xylo doesn't look as cool as the KRG W3 but it is more rigid and much more natural feeling position. The adjustments are both secure and very easy to change. The Xylo uses all of the same fasteners whereas the W3 mixes SAE and metric and uses about ten different lengths and size bolts. The W3 actions screws are odd lengths while the Xylo's are both the same lengths and interchangeable. The Xylo might use four total different fasteners and includes the necessary T25 for any of the hard adjustments like butt pad and bag rider. You only need two different wrenches total for the entire chassis, the T25 driver and 3/16 Hex head for the action and lug clamp screws. My two biggest complaints of the W3 are all of the different fasteners and all of the different component parts.
I originally thought the Xylo level was dumb but it's kind of genius (if you like levels). When you're behind the rifle looking through the scope, if you glance down without moving your head there is the level. If you don't like levels just press it in and it's gone.
I have all MDT magazines (plastic 223, metal 308, and metal WSM). None of them initially fit. The latch was too long. The latch comes out pretty easy and I filed it down. The MDT plastic mags have a rib that interferes with the bump on the lever, I zipped it off with a Dremel and the mags work perfect. Overall the Xylo loads like most other chassis, there's nothing to get hung up on inside so mags just go in.
Superior function has a way of looking good. Consider a smoking hot woman that can't dance but does so anyway. When you see her dance (think Elaine Benis of Seinfeld doing the Idiot) her hotness goes cold.This chassis is far nicer than expected. The rear end is growing on me looks wise, but damn does it function well.
Everything is machined perfectly and the adjustments on the comb and LOP are the best I’ve ever seen. Super fast and extremely solid with no tools.
You have any pictures or videos of what needs to be done to the feed lips so you get proper controlled round feeding?When it comes to my ARC actions, I have dropped my Archimedes and Nukes into McMillan, Greyboe, McCrees, AG Composites, and a Stocky's, using SOL, Mesa Precision, Vudu, and Hawkins bottom metal. Fed fine from Magpul, MDT plastic and metal, Accurate mag, ARC mags, and another one I can't remember.
They all fed just fine with short action and long action. And, once I cut the feed lips back so that the cartridge was pushed up into the extractor by the shoulder of the cartridge below, I get consistent control round feeding. If you leave long feed lips, so that the angled shoulder of the cartridge second one is pushing the cartridge forward, you will never get control round feeding.
I ran Huber, Calvin Elite, TT Diamond, Special and Primary. They have all operated just fine. I could tweak the cocking pieces to time up the triggers a little better, but it is nothing so I don't bother.
I've run the Barloc, barrel nuts, and shouldered barrels. They all were easy to install and run great.
The Archimedes is growing on me, I might like it better than my Nuke. I wish I had done the Xylo preorder...
I know this is a reply to a post that's a few weeks old but I am glad Cascade Hemi pointed this out. The screws caused more than one argument. I personally don't value the ability to use one tool for all of the adjustments, not as much as others do anyway, but now that Cascade Hemi weighed in with kind words, I'm happy that the sensible people, Justin and Keith, prevailed, this time.
Ted
I suppose we could but the nice thing about the 4mm hex that we currently use is that one can also use a 5/32" wrench.Tell them I said thank you. Carrying less crap and reducing my mental checklists is a priority to me.
Now then, can you make the socket caps on your rings 3/16 also? If you did that I'd be down to three wrenches total for my entire rifle including the scope.
I'll try to get something up in the next couple of days but the stock feed lips on the AICS mags still offer CRF functionality so long as you don't run the bolt slowly. And by slowly, I mean a speed at which one is try to deliberately cause the cartridge to pop out in front of the extractor. And even in that case, the action will just function like a push feed (like most other action). CRF reduces the likelihood of double feeding the rifle if the shooter really fails to do his job, perhaps in a stressful circumstance.You have any pictures or videos of what needs to be done to the feed lips so you get proper controlled round feeding?
For those who haven't seen it yet, they have the new/different sized grips up on their website as of a few nights ago. #ordered
How are folks finishing their grips? They come unfinished. I kinda liked the ones that came with the chassis but prefer the Large. Just sand em and coat them with boiled linseed?
I suppose we could but the nice thing about the 4mm hex that we currently use is that one can also use a 5/32" wrench.
Ted
I sanded mine out and they on coating two of Linseed oil.
Any ideas how ARC got the color of the one that came with the gun? I have lots of fancy walnut on my Krieghoffs and sporting rifles, not sure i like it as much as the ARC color.
The DOC adjustment - seems a bit weird. A T25 on the RHS and a dial knob on the LHS - seems like the dial knob on the LHS , when the T25 screw is loosen sometimes lowers and increases DOC as there are teeth, but seems to not engage half the time. Anyone figured it out
Black stain?
I like flat, natural walnut.
How long is the forend?
New large size grip is pure sex for my hands (zing!). Maybe a touch of smoothing in certain areas, will get a better idea after the next few session.
View attachment 7329948
Please don’t post any more pictures of this rifle, my wiener can only get so erectNew large size grip is pure sex for my hands (zing!). Maybe a touch of smoothing in certain areas, will get a better idea after the next few session.
View attachment 7329948
Any ideas how ARC got the color of the one that came with the gun? I have lots of fancy walnut on my Krieghoffs and sporting rifles, not sure i like it as much as the ARC color.
I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all.
It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.
Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...
Ted
Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...
Ted
It is gonna happen, and hopefully so will G10 or micarta grips.
I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.
Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...
Ted
I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.
Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...
Ted
I finally assembled my rifle (got my 6GT barreled Archimedes action back on Fri late night) so spend yesterday putting her together and i noticed my buttpad was missing a chunk of rubber (about 3/4" x 1/8" on lower RH side edge of the buttpad) - received the chassis a month again but it sat in the box untouched for the last 4-6 weeks as GS was spinning my barrel. I didnt even notice it til i went to take a pic for this forum ... Pinged ARC (they are great to work with always).