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American Rifle Company New Archimedes Action, New Xylo Chassis, and major Mausingfield revision

I think I'm gonna have to order an Archimedes. Ya know I've just got these extra barrels laying around.......

I was thinking the same thing...I'm calling Ted and the guys tomorrow! I think I might send my trigger to them so they can make sure it's timed perfectly before they ship it out to me.
 
I've got two Archimedes. One a 223 that's currently in a Foundation and the other has a short 6x47L barrel on it at the moment and it's been in the Xylo but is also currently in a Foundation. I haven't had a single failure to feed or extract from either of them. That's with about 350rds through the 223 and 120rds through the 6x47L. If you've ever tried to make a 223 run in a AICS mag fed bolt rifle, you know that can be tricky sometimes. The action feeds so smoothly that at first I wasn't always sure it picked the round up out of the magazine, but it always had. I definitely love the Mausingfield action, but the Archimedes is becoming more of a favorite each time I take it out.


Sorry for the crap phone pics, but heres the 223 in it's current configuration.

IMG_6289.jpg


And the only pic of the 6x47 that I already had on my phone.
60782579128__83041B95-D5C1-4DDD-A905-149F4F5AF675.jpg
 
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While I don’t have an Archimedes I do have a Gen 1 Nucleus in .223 and I will agree with the above assessment, never had any feeding issues with mine.
 
When it comes to my ARC actions, I have dropped my Archimedes and Nukes into McMillan, Greyboe, McCrees, AG Composites, and a Stocky's, using SOL, Mesa Precision, Vudu, and Hawkins bottom metal. Fed fine from Magpul, MDT plastic and metal, Accurate mag, ARC mags, and another one I can't remember.
They all fed just fine with short action and long action. And, once I cut the feed lips back so that the cartridge was pushed up into the extractor by the shoulder of the cartridge below, I get consistent control round feeding. If you leave long feed lips, so that the angled shoulder of the cartridge second one is pushing the cartridge forward, you will never get control round feeding.

I ran Huber, Calvin Elite, TT Diamond, Special and Primary. They have all operated just fine. I could tweak the cocking pieces to time up the triggers a little better, but it is nothing so I don't bother.

I've run the Barloc, barrel nuts, and shouldered barrels. They all were easy to install and run great.

The Archimedes is growing on me, I might like it better than my Nuke. I wish I had done the Xylo preorder...
 
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Spoke to Justin today at ARC while ordering my Archimedes action (will start life with a 22x47Lapua barrel I picked recently).
I was also able to order the larger grips for my Xylo. I just checked and they are on the website now. He said that they are the same width but extend further back....I don't know if that will give me the feel I'm looking for, but I'm interested to try them. They also have unshaped grip blanks that just have the milling done on the inside for the chassis - you shape them yourself....that might be interesting.

I can't wait to start playing with this Archimedes action!!!
 
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Spoke to Justin today at ARC while ordering my Archimedes action (will start life with a 22x47Lapua barrel I picked recently).
I was also able to order the larger grips for my Xylo. I just checked and they are on the website now. He said that they are the same width but extend further back....I don't know if that will give me the feel I'm looking for, but I'm interested to try them. They also have unshaped grip blanks that just have the milling done on the inside for the chassis - you shape them yourself....that might be interesting.

I can't wait to start playing with this Archimedes action!!!

Grips should be adjusted to fit the shooter, as best as possible. Wood is pretty easy to shape. You can add material to thicken or add finger grooves or something. The goal is to have uniform pressure on your hand, provide for real consistent trigger finger placement (the grip is the anchor of the trigger finger), and you want your hand to naturally find the grip - meaning that after you operate the bolt your hand is almost guided into your perfect grip.
There are lots of epoxies to add to grips; I like "Steel Putty" or just Bondo. Steel putty is nice because a stone wheel on a Dremel will remove the epoxy way easier than it removes wood.
 
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my 6GT and 6Dasher barrels are all finished up for my Archimedes and XYLO ... next wekend i hope.
 
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Yes, SPR bugnut Bartlein in 223 Remington.

There is a lot of adjustment everywhere, I'm probably at the minimum for much of it. I need to reset my scope because it is too far back now.

I didn't pre order, I ordered in the middle of January and paid full retail.

The Xylo doesn't look as cool as the KRG W3 but it is more rigid and much more natural feeling position. The adjustments are both secure and very easy to change. The Xylo uses all of the same fasteners whereas the W3 mixes SAE and metric and uses about ten different lengths and size bolts. The W3 actions screws are odd lengths while the Xylo's are both the same lengths and interchangeable. The Xylo might use four total different fasteners and includes the necessary T25 for any of the hard adjustments like butt pad and bag rider. You only need two different wrenches total for the entire chassis, the T25 driver and 3/16 Hex head for the action and lug clamp screws. My two biggest complaints of the W3 are all of the different fasteners and all of the different component parts.

I originally thought the Xylo level was dumb but it's kind of genius (if you like levels). When you're behind the rifle looking through the scope, if you glance down without moving your head there is the level. If you don't like levels just press it in and it's gone.

I have all MDT magazines (plastic 223, metal 308, and metal WSM). None of them initially fit. The latch was too long. The latch comes out pretty easy and I filed it down. The MDT plastic mags have a rib that interferes with the bump on the lever, I zipped it off with a Dremel and the mags work perfect. Overall the Xylo loads like most other chassis, there's nothing to get hung up on inside so mags just go in.
I know this is a reply to a post that's a few weeks old but I am glad Cascade Hemi pointed this out. The screws caused more than one argument. I personally don't value the ability to use one tool for all of the adjustments, not as much as others do anyway, but now that Cascade Hemi weighed in with kind words, I'm happy that the sensible people, Justin and Keith, prevailed, this time.

Ted
 
This chassis is far nicer than expected. The rear end is growing on me looks wise, but damn does it function well.

Everything is machined perfectly and the adjustments on the comb and LOP are the best I’ve ever seen. Super fast and extremely solid with no tools.
Superior function has a way of looking good. Consider a smoking hot woman that can't dance but does so anyway. When you see her dance (think Elaine Benis of Seinfeld doing the Idiot) her hotness goes cold.

The Xylo is the opposite of that. You need to understand it before you can see its beauty. At American Rifle Company, we don't do superfluous, and we don't dance with Elaine.

Ted

 
When it comes to my ARC actions, I have dropped my Archimedes and Nukes into McMillan, Greyboe, McCrees, AG Composites, and a Stocky's, using SOL, Mesa Precision, Vudu, and Hawkins bottom metal. Fed fine from Magpul, MDT plastic and metal, Accurate mag, ARC mags, and another one I can't remember.
They all fed just fine with short action and long action. And, once I cut the feed lips back so that the cartridge was pushed up into the extractor by the shoulder of the cartridge below, I get consistent control round feeding. If you leave long feed lips, so that the angled shoulder of the cartridge second one is pushing the cartridge forward, you will never get control round feeding.

I ran Huber, Calvin Elite, TT Diamond, Special and Primary. They have all operated just fine. I could tweak the cocking pieces to time up the triggers a little better, but it is nothing so I don't bother.

I've run the Barloc, barrel nuts, and shouldered barrels. They all were easy to install and run great.

The Archimedes is growing on me, I might like it better than my Nuke. I wish I had done the Xylo preorder...
You have any pictures or videos of what needs to be done to the feed lips so you get proper controlled round feeding?
 
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For those who haven't seen it yet, they have the new/different sized grips up on their website as of a few nights ago. #ordered
 
I know this is a reply to a post that's a few weeks old but I am glad Cascade Hemi pointed this out. The screws caused more than one argument. I personally don't value the ability to use one tool for all of the adjustments, not as much as others do anyway, but now that Cascade Hemi weighed in with kind words, I'm happy that the sensible people, Justin and Keith, prevailed, this time.

Ted

Tell them I said thank you. Carrying less crap and reducing my mental checklists is a priority to me.

Now then, can you make the socket caps on your rings 3/16 also? If you did that I'd be down to three wrenches total for my entire rifle including the scope.
 
Tell them I said thank you. Carrying less crap and reducing my mental checklists is a priority to me.

Now then, can you make the socket caps on your rings 3/16 also? If you did that I'd be down to three wrenches total for my entire rifle including the scope.
I suppose we could but the nice thing about the 4mm hex that we currently use is that one can also use a 5/32" wrench.

Ted
 
You have any pictures or videos of what needs to be done to the feed lips so you get proper controlled round feeding?
I'll try to get something up in the next couple of days but the stock feed lips on the AICS mags still offer CRF functionality so long as you don't run the bolt slowly. And by slowly, I mean a speed at which one is try to deliberately cause the cartridge to pop out in front of the extractor. And even in that case, the action will just function like a push feed (like most other action). CRF reduces the likelihood of double feeding the rifle if the shooter really fails to do his job, perhaps in a stressful circumstance.

Ted
 
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For those who haven't seen it yet, they have the new/different sized grips up on their website as of a few nights ago. #ordered

How are folks finishing their grips? They come unfinished. I kinda liked the ones that came with the chassis but prefer the Large. Just sand em and coat them with boiled linseed?
 
How are folks finishing their grips? They come unfinished. I kinda liked the ones that came with the chassis but prefer the Large. Just sand em and coat them with boiled linseed?

I sanded mine out and they on coating two of Linseed oil.
 
I used walnut stain, but came out too dark so I sanded it off, the wood in mine has a nice gold color. Once you get them smooth, rub them with fine steel wool and recoat until they are as glossy as you like.
 
I suppose we could but the nice thing about the 4mm hex that we currently use is that one can also use a 5/32" wrench.

Ted

I think the difference is now you have a rifle ecosystem whereas before you only had individual components. Going to the field with only three wrenches for my rifle and scope would be perfect. With the KRG stock and Badger rings I think I was closer to 10 different bits and wrenches combined.
 
I keep finding features besides infinite adjustments on the Xylo, last night I picked up on the slotted trigger guard that makes it easier to make trigger adjustments. Another thing I haven't tried yet but thought about last night is storing the 5/32 allen wrench under the rubbery cheek piece. Having a chassis is a whole new game for me after having traditional style rifle stocks for nearly 60 years, I find myself picking it up familiarizing and playing with it constantly.
 
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I sanded mine out and they on coating two of Linseed oil.

Any ideas how ARC got the color of the one that came with the gun? I have lots of fancy walnut on my Krieghoffs and sporting rifles, not sure i like it as much as the ARC color.
 
The DOC adjustment - seems a bit weird. A T25 on the RHS and a dial knob on the LHS - seems like the dial knob on the LHS , when the T25 screw is loosen sometimes lowers and increases DOC as there are teeth, but seems to not engage half the time. Anyone figured it out
 
The DOC adjustment - seems a bit weird. A T25 on the RHS and a dial knob on the LHS - seems like the dial knob on the LHS , when the T25 screw is loosen sometimes lowers and increases DOC as there are teeth, but seems to not engage half the time. Anyone figured it out

Don't mess with the rhs t25. Just loosen the dial knob on the left a few turns, then pull out on the right hand side knob and turn to the adjustment you want.

Then tighten lhs knob, it is there to tighten everything up and prevent cheekpiece wiggling around.
 
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I finally assembled my rifle (got my 6GT barreled Archimedes action back on Fri late night) so spend yesterday putting her together and i noticed my buttpad was missing a chunk of rubber (about 3/4" x 1/8" on lower RH side edge of the buttpad) - received the chassis a month again but it sat in the box untouched for the last 4-6 weeks as GS was spinning my barrel. I didnt even notice it til i went to take a pic for this forum ... Pinged ARC (they are great to work with always).
 
I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted
 
I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all.

Big Yes to the above. Usually brown/black dont go together right, at least thats what my wife says. But on Xylo, its fucking hot.

It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted

Thanks for the tip on the minmax polyshades.
 
It is gonna happen, and hopefully so will G10 or micarta grips. ;)

On this note - G10 side panels are fine, but if they continue to the rear it has a small tendency to send glass fibers into your palm. Not recommended.

I find myself strangely attracted to the brown, too. The only “aesthetic improvement” I can see beyond that is going a few shades lighter to gunmetal instead of black.
 
I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted

Ted, I build fly fishing rods with wood reel seats.
We stabilize our woods by submerging them in resins under vacuum.
It makes them very durable and stable without making them look ugly.

A set of cocobolo Grips would be the bomb!
 
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I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted

I prefer them unfinished. I don't like the tool marks so after sanding a set of mediums out all I had to do was add oil. My grips actually came out pretty dark but still distinctly brown.
 
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With the Covid-19 restrictions loosening a bit I was finally able to get to the range with my Archimedes / XYLO combo. I'd been doing a bit of dry firing with the XYLO and a Bighorn barreled action, but I ordered the Archimedes a couple weeks ago.

XYLO:
I really love this stock. After sighting in I played with different butt stock and hand stop positions for standing/sitting/prone slung up with my shooting coat on (shooting NRA HighPower). Here are my thoughts after a 50rd practice match:
  1. The stock is solid, the butt stock locks up and doesn't move. I was getting a little squeak in the butt pad, but then realized I hadn't tightened one of the screws when I lowered the butt pad for standing.
  2. The butt stock adjustments are easier than my Eliseo Tube Gun even though the Eliseo design allows for more movement overall. But the additional movement isn't really missed. I can shoot High Master scores with my non-adjustable service rifle, so the amount of adjustment the XYLO allows for in the butt stock is perfect for fine tuning.
  3. The magazine lock up is great. I fumbled the mag release in my prone rapid stage. I would really like a wider paddle ...sort of like a Hawkins DBM or a JAE-700. I'll probably make one on the 3D printer when I get a chance.
  4. In prone slow fire this gun just didn't move. I couldn't believe how steady the gun was (I ate greasy/salty fast food and caffeinated soda before going to the range, so I was quite surprised). The grip and the flat forend were almost perfect.
  5. The grip, even with the larger grip, is still a little too small for me. I shot it with the standard grip on, but I'm going to take the large grip and bondo it to fit my hand a little better. I want more material in the hollow of my hand, I feel like, but can't confirm yet, that this will give me a little bit more control.
  6. In standing, with the butt pad adjusted down I need a little more height under the forend. I've got a tapered riser in the 3D printer right now that I'll drop an Anschutz rail into. I set it up so that I can add aluminum or steel spacers between the riser and the stock for additional height (and weight).
  7. For my purposes I wish it weighed a little more. I see that ARC now has chassis weights available on their website, and I might look into that, but I'll wait to play with it once my riser is installed and working. Regarding weight, I'm only running a Medium Palma or Rem Varmint contour....for my purposes the heavier contours make it too muzzle heavy.
  8. I also noticed a little resonance or pinging when firing a shot. I haven't had an aluminum chassis before, so I don't know how common that it. I have shot McMillans/Manners/J Allens and never had that issue. The J Allen, while aluminum has a molded skin that helps to dampen noise and vibration. I'm sure with additional weight that this issue would be eliminated.
Archimedes:

I became interested in this action as soon as I spent some time behind my Mausingfield (M7). My Mausingfield has a heavier bolt lift than my Bighorn TL3, but when you close the bolt it feels like the Mausingfield sucks the bolt out of my hand and closes on it's own....it's amazing. (as a side note the TL3 is basically a 50/50 bolt so it has a lighter lift when opening, which is great, but it takes just as much force to close it, not a big deal, just different.....I can still run it fast and clean the sitting and prone rapid fire targets). So, with the Archimedes I was looking for a lighter bolt lift and still no force to close the bolt. When I pulled the action out of the box I was disappointed....it was stiff to say the least, and if felt much heavier than my Mausingfield bolt. I know how my TL3 improved after a few thousand rounds, so I didn't let it worry me too much. Everything was lubricated correctly and after about 60 rounds and almost double that amount of dry firings the bolt is running much smoother. Now it is a notably lighter bolt lift than my Mausingfield, still heavier than the TL3. The force required to close it is less than the TL3 and about the same as the Mausingfield. I do notice the slightly shallower angle for the bolt lift, and I like it. The bolt starts moving backwards before the M7 or TL3 have reached the top of their strokes. I have not quantified this, but I think it may be my fastest action to operate. A note on triggers - I'm using a Tubb T7T. After I adjusted the pull weight for the stages it has you adjust the sear engagement as well. Doing this helped even more with feel of the bolt operation on the Archimedes. So, which is my favorite of these three.......I don't know honestly, ask me in a few thousand rounds. I'm not in a hurry to offload any of them, and I have no issues getting rid of something that I'm not going to use. I do think that I'll be ordering another bolt head for the Archimedes so that I can put my 220 Thunderbolt barrel on it though.

@karagias you and your team are doing a great job....your products are top of the line in design and finish and they're almost all in stock right now. Keep up the good work.

Regards,
Ross
 
I finally assembled my rifle (got my 6GT barreled Archimedes action back on Fri late night) so spend yesterday putting her together and i noticed my buttpad was missing a chunk of rubber (about 3/4" x 1/8" on lower RH side edge of the buttpad) - received the chassis a month again but it sat in the box untouched for the last 4-6 weeks as GS was spinning my barrel. I didnt even notice it til i went to take a pic for this forum ... Pinged ARC (they are great to work with always).

Thanks to ARC - their CS is second to none.