Accuracy International Picture Thread

Straight tapers look so badass on AI’s. I wish they were the standard.

Eh, might not be a good idea unless you compete.
but the Straight (no taper) Bull Barrels do look good. Carbon goodness.

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Buddies AX...
 
@Huskydriver Oh, forgot run an AXMC. That proof carbon is 1.200" straight"

Proof doesn't make a blank carbon 6.5mm that has a 1.330-1.350" Shank diameter that I'm aware of. You'd have to get a Prefit form them

Na it will be a bartlein...I have sent 3 proofs back for being garbage not a fan
 
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@Huskydriver Don't bash a company cause you can't shoot brah... LOL

Not bashing anything...Two the rifling looked worse than a savage factory barrel, one the chamber was cut so crooked you could see it with your naked eye. It doesn't matter proof took care of the two I sent back no problem. I have had 6 proof prefits to date. 3 were duds by my standard... The other 3 were okay once I found a load for them same with the replacements...

all my bartleins have hammered right out of the gate so sticking with that
WIN_20190801_15_53_59_Pro.jpg
 
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Not bashing anything...Two the rifling looked worse than a savage factory barrel, one the chamber was cut so crooked you could see it with your naked eye. It doesn't matter proof took care of the two I sent back no problem. I have had 6 proof prefits to date. 3 were duds by my standard... The other 3 were okay once I found a load for them same with the replacements...

all my bartleins have hammered right out of the gate so sticking with thatView attachment 7521869

Ah, the improved rifling. It shaves off the slightest amount of copper to make it a +P load and a higher BC to boot. Genius!!
 
Lightest reasonable setup I could go with for a team match. 16lbs 9.2oz with bipod. 15lbs 10.6oz without. I’ll be able to drop another 7.3oz switching from the 338Ultra to the DOMINUS when it gets released from jail in February.

Nightforce ATACR 4-16x42
Badger Unimount
16-3/4” Bartlien 1:10 .308 barrel
338 Ultra
Atlas Cal w/ RRS BTC Pro

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Unless you're running clip on NVG, take off the forend top rail if you want to cut down on weight.
Remove it with the two underbolts and slide it off to remove the rail without taking your scope off.
 
Question for the AI gurus

The bolt on my AT has suddenly developed some significant drag when working the action. It is almost like there was syrup on it. Not smooth like it used to be. No issues with operation but I miss the slick, smooth operation. Not really sure why. I have tried cleaning it with a carbon remover. Also tried putting a little KG gun oil on the raceways that are cut into the body and on the bottom of the housing at the rear. The bolt body does not feel sticky to me at all.

Nothing seems to help. Any ideas?
 
Question for the AI gurus

The bolt on my AT has suddenly developed some significant drag when working the action. It is almost like there was syrup on it. Not smooth like it used to be. No issues with operation but I miss the slick, smooth operation. Not really sure why. I have tried cleaning it with a carbon remover. Also tried putting a little KG gun oil on the raceways that are cut into the body and on the bottom of the housing at the rear. The bolt body does not feel sticky to me at all.

Nothing seems to help. Any ideas?
What is the condition of the bolt stop? The bolt body is guided by that, so if it is dirty or has a burr in it that could cause a rough feeling.

Did you clean the inside of the action itself? The bolt rides on the bolt stop and the outside surface of the bolt lugs, oiling the flutes on the bolt body won’t do anything.
 
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Unless you're running clip on NVG, take off the forend top rail if you want to cut down on weight.
Remove it with the two underbolts and slide it off to remove the rail without taking your scope off.
Yeah, that’s why I said “reasonable”. The 338 Ultra is barely a pound. And you need the weight forward of the action from the top rail to help balance the rifle out. Especially when I swap to the Dominus and cut more weight.

I tried without the top rail and with a heavier suppressor and this was the best all rounded setup. Otherwise it is rear end heavy.
 
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Thanks @samb300 and @96C

My rifles are LH so I would think the bolt stop is on the right side? I wouldn't even know where the bolt stop and the channel on the body is but I will see if the AI manuals tell me.

Really appreciate the answers
A shot in the dark but I would imagine the bolt stop is integral to the bolt release which should, in your case, be on the right side of the receiver.
 
Thanks @samb300 and @96C

My rifles are LH so I would think the bolt stop is on the right side? I wouldn't even know where the bolt stop and the channel on the body is but I will see if the AI manuals tell me.

Really appreciate the answers

The button you push on the side of the action to remove the bolt... That's also the bolt stop....

This groove that runs the length of the bolt and opens up at the rear of the bolt is the channel the bolt stop rides in...
20210110_160205.jpg
 
The button you push on the side of the action to remove the bolt... That's also the bolt stop....

This groove that runs the length of the bolt and opens up at the rear of the bolt is the channel the bolt stop rides in...
View attachment 7525125
Thank you sir. I have tried a thin film of oil in that channel but it doesn't help. I am going to clean the bolt stop from the inside as suggested to see if that helps
 
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@Nik H Check the roll pins in the bolt body and make sure none have worked out of their hole. The set screw on my cocking piece backed out and let the firing pin rotate. The firing pin would hit the roll pin and push it out. I dont know if yours is the same, mine is a mk3.
 
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